Fungicides in Full Effect!
By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
March 20, 2025
Plant diseases love spring! As temperatures warm and tender new growth emerges, conditions are ideal for fungal pathogens to settle in and take up residence in our favorite trees. It is now when many plants are most susceptible AND treatable for fungal diseases, such as Dothistroma needle cast of Austrian pine, apple scab of flowering crabapple, Rhizosphaera needle cast of blue spruce, rust diseases on hawthorn and pear, and many others. So, rest easy as you see our tree wellness crews all over town arresting pathogenic perpetrators.
For this article, I want to focus on apple scab because it may be the most aesthetically devastating disease of ornamental trees and it is one of the most common diseases we see daily out in the field.
What is the disease and what does it do?
Apple scab is caused by the pathogen Venturia inaequalis. It is a common disease targeting the rose family of plants which includes crabapple, apple, pear, hawthorn, mountain ash, cotoneaster and pyracantha.
Apple scab produces lesions on leaves, flowers, fruit and on young succulent shoots. When infected areas are numerous, leaves can become curled and distorted and severe infections can lead to complete defoliation of trees and shrubs.
Several years of early leaf loss generally results in poor growth, reduced bloom and increased susceptibility to winter injury and insect predation.
images courtesy of OSU BYGL
How does the disease work?
Apple scab overwinters in fallen diseased leaves and in the soil. Disease development is favored by wet weather and cool temperatures that generally occur in central Ohio in the spring and early summer. Fungal spores are moved from the ground and carried to trees by raindrop splash and wind where they make their way to leaves, flowers, and fruit.
During wet periods, newly emerging crabapple leaves are extremely susceptible to infection. The longer the leaves remain wet, the more significant the infection can be. 10-20 days after initial infection, new spores are released which infect new leaves. Repeated infections can continue through the summer until environmental conditions become too hot and dry for the pathogen.
What can be done to protect my crabapples?
For most crabapple trees, fungicides must be applied preventatively to successfully manage apple scab. Fungicide sprays should begin when the first green leaves are emerging with additional sprays being applied in roughly two-week intervals. The number of fungicide applications needed can vary with weather conditions but generally, we recommend three separate applications.
Other cultural practices that can increase the effectiveness of fungicide applications when managing apple scab are:
Raking up and destroying infected fallen leaves to reduce locations where the apple scab pathogen can overwinter
Space crabapple trees generously to increase air circulation around trees
Prune out crossing limbs, vigorous upright sprouts, and suckers to increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the canopy (this can help foliage dry faster after rain or dew)
Avoid overhead irrigation, if plants need watering, apply water directly to the root zone. (Check out this article on best tree watering practices)
Additionally, much breeding and selection work has been performed within the nursery industry to introduce scab-resistant crabapples into the landscape. A short list of some of the most scab-resistant cultivars include:
‘Coralburst’,
‘Donald Wyman’
‘Prairifire’
‘Purple Prince’
‘Red Jewel’
‘Royal Raindrops’
‘Sugar Tyme.’
Also, selecting a tree that is not a member of the Rose family would be a guaranteed way to avoid apple scab.
Other common fungal diseases of trees that can be managed using fungicides include Oak Wilt, Dutch Elm Disease, Powdery Mildew, Black Knot, Anthracnose, and Verticillium wilt.
Remember, application timing is important and most fungal diseases of trees and shrubs are treated preventively. Treatments are far less likely to be effective when applied after the disease(s) has shown up. Tree disease diagnosis and treatment recommendations should be made by a professional arborist. Definitive disease identification may even require sending samples to a plant pathology lab. Russell Tree Experts will provide this service if needed or recommended.
If you have questions about fungal diseases of trees on your property, request a free quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at (614) 895-7000 or RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
Please note: This article was originally published on 3/25/24 and was revised and republished on 3/20/25.
ADDITIONAL TREE PRESERVATION ARTICLES!
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and is well versed in plant pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.
How and When to Stake a Tree
By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
June 5, 2025
“Spare the rod, spoil the child” — This is how I like to explain the staking of trees when someone asks about it. Sometimes the quote works, and other times they look at me funny. While it doesn’t do much to explain how to stake a tree, it’s actually a great way to think about why you may or may not want to stake the tree in the first place. Stick with me and I’ll explain.
For starters, I’m not condoning corporal punishment. Maybe you’re familiar with this somewhat outdated expression. To put it in different words, it could mean “Without discipline, a child doesn’t receive the guidance to grow up strong and self-sufficient.” That sounds better, doesn’t it?! Don’t make the mistake of equating the “rod” to the stake, it’s actually the opposite. The rod in this case represents “discipline” or "hard love.” In other words, not staking the tree if you don’t have to. If that doesn’t make sense yet, it will in a couple of paragraphs.
There are a few situations where staking a tree is beneficial or even crucial to its success. But for the majority of newly planted trees, it’s often not necessary. Let’s start with reasons to stake. A tutorial video is available at the end for you to watch and/or follow along to!
When Staking a Tree is a Good Idea
An existing or newly planted tree that is “loose” at its base due to wind or improper handling when planted. Trees with trunks that can move around in the soil, even a little bit, are at a greater risk of further damage, lean, or complete failure (uprooting/falling over). Temporary and sometimes long-term support may be necessary to stabilize the tree for its own health and also safety.
Newly-planted LARGE trees. These trees often have a much larger canopy-to-rootball ratio, and as a result, are at greater risk of shifting or blowing over from high winds after being planted. They also tend to take longer to re-establish a strong, supportive root system.
An existing tree that is exhibiting a lean due to being located in an area with frequent high winds, or a newly planted tree in this same area.
Same as number 3 but substitute high wind with frequently wet soil.
A newly planted tree being placed on a steep grade or significantly sloped terrain.
Note: The above list does NOT say to “stake all newly planted trees, period.” Let’s revisit the expression at the top of the page to understand why.
Why Staking a Tree is Often Not Necessary
Trees respond to their environments in some pretty fascinating ways. One of those is by changing the amount and quality of tissue that is grown in response to physical stressors (wind, gravity, lean, proverbial rods, etc.) We can call this geotropism (change in response to gravity) or thigmomorphogenesis (change in response to any mechanical or environmental stimulus). Jeopardy, here we come! When we plant a new balled and burlapped tree, many of (most of) the tree’s original root system was lost when it was dug out of the ground. In the case of containerized trees that have all of their root system still intact, that root system is concentrated into a very small space (within the container) and isn’t spreading out into the surrounding soil, at least not at first. In either case, research has shown that trees will often develop a stronger root system, in the long run and under normal conditions initially, when left unstaked and made to withstand these forces. The jostling and moving about that occurs with a newly planted tree in light to moderate winds, or the forces of gravity placed on a tree that has to overcome a slightly sloped terrain, will actually stimulate growth of the root system, much the same way our muscles will grow in response to first being stressed in a workout and technically damaged, but then recovering bigger and stronger than before. To further build on that analogy, that same response can be impacted by other factors, just like in people, like overloading (damaging high winds for a tree/a person trying to lift too much in the gym) or lack of proper nutrition (which impedes proper healing and growth, whether you’re a tree or a person). Under normal conditions, a tree will strengthen its root system and eventually be able to withstand greater forces exerted on its ever-growing canopy.
We’ve discussed when a tree should be staked, and when it shouldn’t. Now let’s talk about how to properly stake a tree when it’s deemed necessary. For the purpose of this article, I’m going to refer to two different types of support as “staking”. This includes actual staking, but also guying. When staking a tree, the materials used and where/how they are installed are very important.
The Stake
For smaller applications, wooden stakes or metal posts may be driven into the ground around the tree, just outside of the root ball (1-2’ form the trunk) or up to a few feet away if conditions require it (space restrictions can sometimes dictate stake placement). Stakes can commonly be 5-6’ in length and driven 1-2’ into the soil, depending on the structure of the soil and how easily it may loosen over time. They can be driven into the ground upright or at a slight angle away from the tree to compensate for the slight pulling forces, towards the tree, that they’ll be subjected to. Use a pole/stake pounder or a sledge hammer to drive the stakes into the ground. It might help to employ a second person for this - best to let them hold the stake. Like trying to swat a fly on someone’s head, it is always better to be the one swinging and not the one being swung at! The number of stakes or posts around a tree can vary, depending on the environment and reasons for staking. A tree subjected to frequent winds always coming from the same direction may simply need one stake upwind from the tree to prevent it from leaning or blowing over in the direction of the wind. A tree in the center of an open backyard, subject to wind from all directions, would do better with 3 stakes, placed in a triangle pattern, to support in all directions.
For larger applications, guying a tree with metal ground anchors may be a better option. A guy wire typically runs from a strong anchor point on the tree down to an anchor inserted in the ground. These are augur-type anchors that turn into the ground and provide an attachment point for wire running from the anchor to the tree. Turnbuckles can be used in these situations to achieve the proper tension on the wires if they’re supporting a tree of significant height and/or spread. This application is rarely something to be undertaken by a homeowner, and is usually performed by a landscape company as part of the initial installation of the trees. However, a homeowner may choose to implement this setup if adding support to an existing established tree that is starting to exhibit a lean due to winds, a damaged root system, or saturated ground (Caution: If you have any doubt as to the stability of a substantially sized tree that appears unstable, do not attempt to remedy it yourself. Call a professional tree care company and have the tree assessed immediately).
The Wire or Strap
There are a number of materials that can be used to connect the tree to the stakes, but no matter what it is, one rule should always be followed - it shouldn’t damage, cut into, or compromise the tree’s branches or bark in any way. Wire remains a cheap and effective material to use, but it’s crucial that it not be directly wrapped around the tree. This will cut into the bark and possibly girdle the stem where it makes contact. Instead, short sections of old garden hose can be cut and used, with the wire running through them, to provide a soft and wide surface to make contact with the trunk of the tree. Straps or rope, if used instead, should be wide enough that they do not cut into the bark. Thin-barked trees such as Red Maples are extremely easy to damage if improperly staked. There are of course many store-bought, application-specific options to choose from that can work wonderfully and provide the right support. Whatever material you are using, the tension between stake and tree does NOT need to be extreme, and should instead be appropriate for the environment. Just enough to prevent excessive movement is usually appropriate. Strong winds or a tree with a larger canopy will call for more tension. Imagine Hippocrates planting this tree and, “First, do no harm.”
Illustration of a recently planted tree with three stakes secured with wire [click to enlarge]
A few more points
There are a few more points worthy of mention. If you determined that a tree needed staking, and after having successfully staked said tree, consider the following:
Check the tree regularly. Every couple of weeks, check to see if the stakes have shifted or loosened in the ground. Check the portion of the support wire or straps that wrap around the tree for any signs of rubbing or wear that could potentially compromise the bark if left as is. Adjustments in tension or placement of support may be necessary.
Remove the stakes after a year. Generally, one full year of root growth and settling of the soil is sufficient to anchor the tree in place and provide adequate support, under normal conditions. Leaving stakes for longer than this can adversely affect the tree’s ability to adapt to its environment.
Fertilize the tree for the first several growing seasons. A growing tree will use all the nutrition you can throw at it (responsibly, left-over Timbits don’t count!). Fertilizing a new tree encourages root and shoot development by providing essential nutrients often lacking in our urban landscape soils. A properly planted, staked as-needed, and well-fed tree is on its way to providing many years of benefit to the landscape.
HOW-TO GUIDE
Click below to download the step-by-step guide!
A Note about Evergreens…
There’s one more application of staking that you’re perhaps wondering about, and curious why I have mentioned it or discussed how to do it - the staking of evergreens with a diagonal wooden stake strapped against the trunk. I’m mentioning it, but not recommending it. This is a very common way for evergreens to be staked, typically when installed by a landscape company, and a very common way to cause long term problems if forgotten about. In the 25 years I’ve been working in the green industries, I’ve seen countless examples of these stakes having been left in place, forgotten about as the tree put on new growth and concealed the stake and support materials. Out of sight, out of mind. This often leads to a girdling of the main stem (trunk) at the location where the strap or wire was placed, years after planting, and only discovered when the top half of the tree suddenly and “mysteriously” starts to die. If you absolutely must stake a tree in this manner, use natural twine, not any synthetic material to attach the wooden stake to the tree. This will break down after 1-2 years and is much less likely to girdle the main stem of the tree if forgotten about.
Remember, the staking of a tree is unnecessary more often than not. When you or a professional deem it a good idea, proper stake installation with appropriate materials will ensure that the stake benefits the tree and causes no long term harm. Please note that Russell Tree Experts does not offer tree planting or tree staking services, but we are always happy to provide professional advice for all things tree and shrub related! For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!
TUTORIAL VIDEO
Please note: This article was originally published on 3/20/2024 and was revised on 6/5/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.
Root for Your Roots!
By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
October 30, 2025
A tree is only as healthy as its roots. Luckily, Russell Tree Experts offers a variety of root-health services! The powerhouse of our root-health services is the air spade. This excavating tool, when attached to a powerful air compressor, is capable of removing soil without damaging tree roots. (Full disclosure and fun fact: air spading is my very favorite type of tree care to perform!)
Root Collar Excavation
“Say NO to Girdling Roots!”
The most common root-health service is root collar excavation. In this procedure, our technician begins at the tree's trunk and removes soil approximately a foot outwards to reveal the root system closest to the tree. From here, roots that are squeezing the trunk or each other can be selectively removed, thus improving the passage of water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves. Once the soil near the trunk is removed, additional improvements can be made such as removing twine, burlap, or other nursery products left during planting, or correcting the soil depth of trees planted too deep. In my experience, this is the single most beneficial process to long-term tree health. Maples and sweetgums are especially prone to girdling roots. Stem girdling roots are no good because they inhibit the flow of water and nutrients for a tree. Signs of trunk girdling in other trees include lack of flare at the base (which indicates the tree is planted too deep), flat spots in the otherwise round trunk, early fall color and leaf drop, and excessive stress during summer drought. Root collar excavations should be performed in winter when trees are dormant, but when the ground is not frozen.
In limited quantities, roots can also be exposed and pruned to prevent damage to patios, driveways, or underground utilities. This method of root removal is far less damaging to tree health than traditional shovel/backhoe techniques. An ISA Certified Arborist® should always be consulted before this type of work is performed because excessive root removal can cause instability and rapid tree death. Air spade trenching and root removal can be performed year-round except in the case of some trees that may be highly stressed or experiencing severe drought conditions.
Even when a tree is planted at the proper depth, has plenty of soil space, and with no girdling, the trunk can still benefit from root-health services. We offer three related, but progressively more intensive options to treat the entire root zone and not just the area around the trunk.
Vertical Mulching
Vertical Mulching
The first is vertical mulching, in which the technician removes soil in small bursts radiating outward from the trunk and extending the entire drip-line of the tree. The small but 8-12 inch deep cavities are then replaced with a porous and nutrient-rich compost blend. The result is a looser, more aerated soil structure for new roots and beneficial microorganisms to expand into. This service can be provided almost year-round (frozen ground/drought excluded) and is my go-to for mature trees on undisturbed sites that are beginning to lack vigor.
Radial Trenching
Radial Trenching
One step up, radial trenching is a similar procedure, but instead of small bursts, the soil is removed in continuous lines radiating outward the length of the canopy. I prefer this technique for new builds and areas with recent compaction, urban sites, and situations where old trees are beginning to decline. This is another almost year-round service.
Root zone Invigoration
The most extensive of entire root zone services we offer is root zone invigoration. In this technique, we use the air spade to remove all the grass, soil, or competing plants sitting on top of the tree's root system. We then correct any girdling and planting depth problems. Finally, we replace the entire space with our compost blend. This is a big, messy, expensive procedure but often the best solution when a valued small to medium-sized tree is being damaged by mowers, vandalism, or when there is an especially dense or aggressive plant growing above the root zone. I prefer this service to occur during winter dormancy, but in extreme cases, it can be performed any time roots are too restricted to function properly.
It’s easy to forget about your trees while they're sitting leafless in winter - but late fall and winter can be an incredibly opportune time to give them attention. Caring for your tree's roots is often more beneficial than pruning, spraying fungicides, or almost any other plant health care service. For a free tree work quote from one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 1/29/2024 and was revised on 10/30/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.
Tree Work in the Winter?
By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2026
“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.
Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.
Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.
Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.
Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.
With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.
One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!
As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000 to speak with our friendly, local office staff!
[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/26 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
The Oak Wilt Defense
The fall season is approaching, and cooler weather is hopefully just right around the corner. With changing temperatures, all our trees are going to be going through a change as well. As we enter the dormant season, we will be gifted with…
By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
November 6, 2025
Fall and cooler weather is here! With changing temperatures, all our trees are going to be going through a change as well. As we enter the dormant season, we will be gifted with vibrant leaf colors on all our deciduous trees. The dormant season doesn’t just refer to leaf senescence and the weather getting colder; disease-carrying insects also enter the stage in their lifecycle where they do not pose as big of a threat to our landscape. In recent studies it has been found that by October 15th (previously October 1st), the Nitidulid beetles that spread Oak Wilt disease will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of infection with the fungal disease. Nitidulid beetles are insects that feed on the sap of trees. When a beetle feeds on the sap of an infected tree, it can move to a new susceptible oak tree and spread the disease. These beetles are most attracted to fresh open wounds, such as a new pruning cut.
All oak species are susceptible to the disease, but oak wilt is most damaging to the red oak group. The fungal infection causes xylem vessels to clog, leading the host of the disease to wilt and then die as quickly as within one growing season. Thus far, we have been unable to treat any infected oak tree with any success. We have treated some healthy trees in the area with a preventative fungal application, especially those close to a confirmed case of the disease.
Unfortunately, these beetles are not the only way that this disease is spread. It is also spread via root grafts of neighboring infected trees. Root grafts can connect oak trees underground and transmit the disease from more than 50 feet away. When there is a known infected tree in the vicinity of other oak trees, root disruption may be recommended, even after the infected tree and stump have been removed.
What can you do if you have Oak trees on your property? Be sure to have them pruned during the appropriate time of year between October 15th and March 31st. If you must prune an Oak tree outside of this window, ensure the wounds are sealed with latex paint to limit the beetles' ability to transmit the disease. If you suspect any of your trees have this disease, please call us, and we can advise you on the next step to confirm a diagnosis. Note that this is the same pruning window for Elm trees as well, so we may help limit the spread of Dutch Elm Disease.
Recently, we had ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® José Fernández, an oak wilt expert and a former RTE employee, visit our office and give a presentation on oak wilt disease to our arborists. Check it out down below!
Enjoy the colorful autumn season! For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was updated on 11/6/2025, but originally published on 9/28/2023.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Lindsey Rice | Operations Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.
———
Additional Resources & Sources for this Article:
“New Disease Control Measures for Oak & Elm Trees” Article (2021)
“Oak Wilt in Franklin County” Article (2017)
Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!
When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?
Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!
Two examples of trees with codominant stems
You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant.
Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau
To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.
So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years.
However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:
End-Weight Reductions
Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.
Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.
Cabling Support System
Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.
A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.
Through-Brace Support System
Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.
Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.
Propping Support System
Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.
A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.
All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!
Sincerely,
Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.
3 Knots for Your Backyard!
What uses come to mind when you think of knot-tying? Putting up a rope swing, securing a load in a truck bed, or installing a makeshift fence around the garden perhaps?
Rope handling and knot-tying may be overlooked by many today as an antiquated skill lost to history. When questioned, most people may only think about knot-tying and rope handling as a badge that is to be awarded to young Boy or Girl Scouts.
Or, if you are an avid history aficionado like myself, knot-tying may even conjure up images in your mind of the seafaring sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The age of sail was one of the pinnacles of human technology with navigating the oceans on massive wooden ships. Skilled crews used miles of rigging consisting of ropes and knots to help steer the large vessel.
The rigging for a British ship-of-the-line.
All of these scenarios are just a brief glimpse into how interwoven human history is with knot-tying and the use of rope. Some historians even believe that knot-tying and rope handling is a technology older than the wheel. It is a relationship as old as recorded history itself!
In a world full of technological advancements and mechanical wonders, you won’t be able to find a replacement for good knot know-how and rope handling. Just think of some of the industries we wouldn’t have without them: rope access, technical rescue, arboriculture, commercial trucking and shipping, commercial fishing, performing arts, the list goes on and on!
Let’s take a look at three knots that you may find useful in your own backyard or around the house. I will let the videos speak for themselves on how to tie the knot, but I will include some common uses down below!
Figure Eight Stopper Knot
The figure eight stopper knot is a relatively easy knot to tie and functions as the name implies. Tying this knot on the end of a rope may prevent it from slipping out of your hand or falling out of your reach. The figure eight knot is the building block of a whole range of more knots relating to or requiring the figure eight knot!
Tying a number of these knots about a foot apart from each other on an anchored rope will give your kids a simple way to climb a rope. Using a short section of 2x6 wood with two equally spaced holes, two equally-long pieces of rope, and two figure eight stopper knots, you can have yourself an affordable rope swing!
But how do we anchor our rope swing?
Bowline Knot
This particular knot forms a secured loop at the end of a rope that can be used to attach the rope to a suitable anchor. Commonly referred to as the “king of knots”, this knot is also the building block of a whole family of bowline-related knots. It may be more difficult to tie than our figure eight stopper knot, but this is a very appropriate knot to use for anchoring our rope swing as well as anchoring a rope to a truck bed or trailer when you are trying to secure a load,
Chain Sinnet (Daisy Chain)
This knot is used primarily for shortening or storing a longer rope and having quick access to all of its length, without the hassle of coiling or tangled, unwanted knots! I use this knot extensively to store longer extension cords in my garage so that I can plug them in and then transport them to where I need them on my property without having to deal with a tangled, jumbled up mess.
BONUS Knot: Slipknot
If you have mastered the chain sinnet, then you may have learned a fourth knot without even realizing it! The chain sinnet is started by tying a Slipknot. We have our arborists first learn this knot when they begin working at Russell Tree Experts. It is an easy, quick knot to learn and allows you to add a loop anywhere along the rope. To retain the loop in the rope, be sure to clip a carabiner or some sort of equipment to the loop. We use this knot daily to send equipment into a tree’s crown. You may find a use for it such as when adjusting the height of a hammock!
I hope this article has inspired you to look into how tying knots can improve your day-to-day activities around the house. Cheers to the craft of knot-tying!
Sincerely,
Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.
Meet Mitch Lippencott!
Dear Reader,
I’m proud and excited to announce the newest member of our regional management team, Mitch Lippencott. Mitch is someone I always enjoy working and sharing tree talk with. If you are fortunate enough to reside in the Grandview, Franklinton, Hilliard, Dublin or Plain City/Marysville areas, Mitch will be your new Russell Tree Experts representative!
Mitch has more than 20 years experience in the green industry. His background is diverse - before Russell Tree Experts, Mitch worked for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and performed municipal tree work for two different communities. His experience gives him a wide spectrum of knowledge in horticulture and tree care.
Mitch joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 as a ground worker and progressed quickly to plant health care and production crew leader before joining our management team. Mitch is an Ohio State graduate, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. He is preparing to take the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® exam this winter. We wish him well in this new position and all endeavors!
Sincerely,
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
Magnolia Scale: They're Back!
By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 7, 2025
Is your magnolia tree turning black? Is it attracting ants, flies, bees and wasps? Is there a sticky substance covering the leaves and everything under the plant? If you look closely, you will also see white blotches on the twigs throughout the tree.
Over the last few years, this recent invasion of magnolia scale in central Ohio has been intense and unlike what I have observed back in the 2010s. They happen to thrive in warm summers with abundant moisture. The population is building and is very apparent this year.
The insect overwinters on twigs and is inconspicuous to the untrained eye until it starts feeding and producing honeydew. Honeydew is the very sweet, sticky substance secreted by the insect that in turn coats the leaves and anything under the plant. This is what attracts other insects to the plant. Eventually the insect covers itself with a waxy coating that protects it while feeding. These are the white blotches we are now seeing on the plants starting early summer through August.
Nymphs emerging from a recently plucked adult Magnolia Scale
The juvenile stage of magnolia scale emerges from these waxy coatings (the adults) in mid to late August through September as crawlers. This is when scale are most vulnerable to insecticides and we attempt to control their population. We typically recommend 2 to 3 topical insecticide sprays during this period spaced a couple weeks apart for the best control of the insect due to the extended emergence. During seasons with larger infestations, it is unlikely that insecticide sprays will completely eliminate this insect. The overall goal of plant healthcare is to keep the population at a threshold that minimizes damage and maintains aesthetics of the host tree.
If the tree’s owner is concerned about the population of magnolia scale before the appropriate window for insecticide applications is open, there are a few DIY options that can be done. First, the insects can be scrubbed off from branches and leaves in June and July. This is when the adults are visible before the hatch begins. You could also prune out heavily infested Interior branches to help reduce numbers. Be sure to completely dispose of any pruned branches as the insect will still hatch. Spraying the trees with a medium pressure garden hose can also eliminate some insects as well as reduce the honeydew on the plants.
The insects feed by sucking sap out of the tree. If left untreated the scale population can grow to levels that will cause decline and eventual death in your tree.
Another issue with magnolia scale is the occurrence of sooty mold which is a byproduct of the honeydew produced by the scale. It is a black fungal growth which is what most people notice first. Although this generally does not harm the tree, it is very unsightly.
In closing, if you suspect your magnolia tree has magnolia scale, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote and one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists® will visit your property to come out and complete an inspection! From there, we can recommend the best management strategy for your magnolia tree. Timing is everything.
Please note: This article was originally published on 8/9/2023 and was revised and republished on 8/7/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Plant Native – But why?
We all hear that incorporating more native species into the landscape is beneficial; but do we know why? Native plants in the landscape are important because all of the plants’ neighbors, including animals and insects, have all evolved together to create a cozy, co-existing ecosystem. Pollinators also thrive in native plant landscapes because they have evolved to pollinate those plants, and they are a good food source and shelter for our pollinator friends. Native plants also require less maintenance than non-native species and therefore have easier upkeep in your gardens. Even if you are unwilling to go 100% native, it’s generally good practice to try and aim for 70% native species. And be sure to check with your local arborists and horticulturists to verify if a particular species is not invasive if you choose a non-native plant.
Did you know that a landscaped area can have layers? The uppermost layer is referred to as the canopy; this encompasses all of your large woody plants such as the Shagbark Hickory and the Northern Red Oak. After the canopy, you have the understory; this includes slightly smaller woody plants, often providing delicious food for consumption to wildlife, such as the Pawpaw and Eastern Redbud. Then you get to the shrub layer which is even smaller woody plants such as Sweetshrub, Oakleaf Hydrangea, and Spicebush. They are also a good source of food for native species of wildlife.
At the very bottom layer of the landscape, you get into all of the herbaceous perennials; these include ferns, grasses, spring ephemerals, and other perennials with various blooming times throughout the growing season. Listed are a few of my favorites:
Virginia Bluebells (early bloom, shade, spring ephemeral)
Solomon’s Seal (spring bloom, shade, perennial)
Wild Blue Phlox (spring bloom, partial shade, perennial)
Joe Pye Weed (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)
Cardinal Flower (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)
New England Aster (fall bloom, full sun, perennial)
Northern Maiden Hair Fern (shade, perennial/fern)
Little Bluestem (full sun, perennial/grass)
This year I had the opportunity to start my native garden from scratch! So hopefully I’ll have an update for you all next year when everything is beautifully in bloom. Until then, plant as many native species as you can so we can help our pollinator friends thrive and provide food and homes to other wildlife dependent on the natural ecosystem in your own yard.
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
Bells in the Park
Tree climbing competitions have been around since the 1970’s and are currently orchestrated by the International Society of Arboriculture. This is the same professional group who many in the industry receive their Certified Arborist credential from each chapter within the ISA, both state-side and international, in turn have their own chapter-wide tree climbing competitions each year.
You find yourself taking a pleasant walk in the local park on a warm and sunny weekend morning. You breathe in deeply and relish in knowing that Spring is here and the trees are beginning to push out new leaves for the year. A calm, warm breeze blows in behind you and suddenly you see an unusually large gathering of people up ahead. You wonder if you missed that there was some sort of art or music festival in the park today, or perhaps some sort of outdoor service… but today is Saturday and that would be a bit rare.
You continue to come closer and you’re met with some bizarre noises. The ringing of what sounds like bells, intermittent clapping… oh it must be an outdoor wedding… but it is oddly accompanied by members yelling “Watch your tail, watch your tail!” and “Stay light, stay light!” and finally a “Watch your slack, climber!”
Ohio Tree Climbing Competition spectators
Intrigued and curious to see what all the commotion is, you pick up the pace and begin to observe that it is not just a single group of people, but multiple groups of people milling about and seemingly gathered around these large trees with caution tape surrounding them, fluttering in the breeze.
You come upon the largest of these groups and only then do you suddenly realize that they aren’t just admiring the large trees, but they are observing and cheering on the individuals that are climbing around and in them! Is this some kind of new sport? How did these people manage to get themselves into these trees? What on earth is going on? You implore the couple closest to you for some answers and they delightfully tell you that this is a tree climbing competition.
Now, I would imagine that this just about sums up most folks' first-time interactions with a tree climbing competition. You won’t find them being aired on ESPN or at the Olympics (one can only dream!) but most will find themselves stumbling upon them just by being in a park at the right place and the right time, or perhaps by catching a short story about them on the evening local news. If you have never observed a tree climbing competition, allow me to indulge you.
International Tree Climbing Championship (ITCC) logo
Tree climbing competitions have been around since the 1970’s and are currently orchestrated by the International Society of Arboriculture. This is the same professional group who many in the industry receive their Certified Arborist credential from each chapter within the ISA, both state-side and international, in turn have their own chapter-wide tree climbing competitions each year. These chapter competitions usually range from about 30-50 male and female climbers, in which each male and female winner would then represent that chapter at a regional climbing competition like the North American Tree Climbing Championship (NATCC), European Tree Climbing Championship (ETCC) or the Asian Pacific Tree Climbing Championship (APTCC). Those chapter winners would also get a chance to represent their chapter at the International Tree Climbing Championship (ITCC), the pinnacle competition!
2018 ITCC group photo
Columbus had the fortune of hosting the ITCC in 2018 at Franklin Park. I remember walking around the competition as a spectator, only having a handful of climbing competitions under my belt at the time, and being overjoyed while watching some of the best tree climbers from all over the world gather in what felt like my backyard! It was a treat to be sure, and fueled my passion for tree climbing competitions even further.
ITCC rule book
So how does a tree climbing competition function? If you want the complete answer you would need to get ahold of the 70+ page rulebook that is freely available on the ISA’s website, but I will spare you the search and give you a shortened breakdown of ISA-sanctioned tree climbing competitions below.
ISA tree climbing competitions currently function on a point-total basis. They consist of five preliminary events, the Work Climb event, Aerial Rescue event, Throwline event, Ascent event, and the Belayed Speed Climb event.
Work Climb Event
The Work Climb event puts the climber’s ability to gracefully move around the tree on display. It is generally the most popular event to spectate and is the most valuable in terms of points, of the five preliminary events. This event requires a climber to start at a predetermined position at the top of the tree’s crown and then make their way to five individual bells spread out amongst the crown. Each bell presents its own challenge that a climber must complete for points (and bonus points), all while showing climbing tact and efficiency. The event is timed and the climber finishes the event by swinging to the ground to land on a target. The quicker the event is completed (among other rulings) the more points the climber scores!
Jacob Nau during the work climb event in 2022
Aerial Rescue Event
The Aerial Rescue event imitates the need for a climber to rescue another climber that has been involved in an incident in the crown of the tree. This event is frequently the most technical and mentally taxing of the preliminaries (only five minutes for a rescue!). A sand-filled dummy is commonly used as the stand-in climbing victim and, depending on what scenario the judges have come up with, the climber can be subject to a whole host of differing scenarios ranging from a chainsaw wound to an allergic reaction and so on!
Jacob Nau (on the left) during the aerial rescue event with Harry Carter judging (on the right)
Throwline Event
The Throwline event asks for precision with a very common tool for tree climbers. Each climber will step into the event and be presented with two trees that have four different branch unions, of which the climber chooses one from each tree to throw their throwballs through and hoist up their climbing ropes for time. The higher the branch union chosen the more points the climber will receive, but you only receive five minutes for the event and there are plenty of ways to receive point penalties in this one!
Jacob Nau manipulating the throw line during the throw line event in 2022
Ascent Event
The Ascent event displays the climber’s ability to ascend a pre-installed rope up to a determined height, for speed. Think of drag racing from point A to point B but in the vertical! There are a number of methods to complete this task and it seems that each year, climbers will manage to squeeze out another tenth of a second with a new piece of gear or technique. Climbers will certainly need to catch their breath for this one as the height of the bell may be as tall as 82 feet, higher than a seven-story building!
Ascent event from 2022
Belayed Speed Climb Event
Lastly, the Belayed Speed Climb event requires the climber to physically climb a predetermined route up a tree to a 60 ft. bell without the aid of a climbing rope, for time. I often refer to this event as the closest to rock climbing we will get in a tree climbing competition. This can be quite challenging when the tree is still wet from the previous day's rain or the morning dew, but is nonetheless what some childhood dreams are made of!
Once every competitor has completed each of the five preliminary events, a short break for lunch and point tallying occurs, and competitors and spectators shuffle their seats and belongings to gather around and find the best seat for the final event of the competition, the Masters Challenge.
Belayed speed climb event example
Masters Challenge Event
The Masters Challenge event is a culmination of several preliminary events. The top male and female climbers, as determined by the sum point totals from the preliminary events, will be given a clean slate in points and a beautiful, mature tree to display their climbing abilities in, while they compete for the top places in the competition in front of the whole crowd and other competitors!
This is normally a 20-30 minute event, per climber, and asks much of them! A climber must give a verbal visual tree assessment to the judges prior to installing their ropes and climbing systems in the tree from the ground, navigate their way through the crown of the tree to four bells on the outer edges of the crown (think of a more advanced Work climb event) with their own bell-specific challenges, and then finally descend out of the tree and remove all of their equipment from the tree, for time.
Masters challenge event from 2021
Once the Masters Challenge is complete, the award ceremony begins in the early evening and the top competitors from each event and the overall winners of the competition are announced!
Scoring system example from 2022
Tree climbing competitions have certainly changed in their format from the 1970s, but the purpose of the competitions has largely remained the same: “promote safe working practices, demonstrate improvements and innovations in equipment and techniques, and provide industry recognition to the public” as quoted from the ISA’s ITCC Rule Book.
Jacob Nau, Hunter Pinyerd, and others at TCC in 2019
One of the great joys in my life is tree climbing, and it is an amazing gift and opportunity to share this passion with other tree climbers and peers from around the chapter. While I certainly enjoy the competitive aspect of the climbing competitions, the camaraderie among the competitors and the people in any of these competitions is almost second to none and I find it wonderfully unique to think that the arboricultural industry is able to offer these experiences. Whether you are a lover of all things trees, a veteran climbing arborist, or someone who is just getting started in this field, tree climbing competitions will always offer new techniques, ideas and establish fantastic relationships with industry professionals and peers alike.
So, if you happen to have made it this far in my tree climbing competition revelry, I would happily like to invite you one! If you are in the central Ohio area, the 2023 Ohio ISA Chapter Tree Climbing Championship is going to be held at American Legion Park in Marysville, Ohio on Saturday May 6th at 8:00am. Every competition is free to the public and you can stay or go as you please. A kids climb, Arbor Fair and food vendors will also be available! Myself, Mac McGuire and Hunter Pinyerd will be representing Russell Tree Experts in what I believe will be our 8th, 3rd and 2nd competition’s, respectively. I hope you can come join us for a great day in the trees!
2023 Ohio Tree Climbing Competition Flyer
Jacob Nau I Training & Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for just over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6797A
Certified Treecare Safety Professional #04338
ISA Tree Risk Assessment Qualified
NCCER Certified #89430
BS in Natural Resource Management, The Ohio State University
EHAP Certified
CPR & First Aid
English Ivy: the Silent, Selfish Assassin
By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
February 20, 2025
English ivy climbing the trunks of your trees can look so natural and attractive in the landscape. It is a lovely and effortless groundcover with glossy, emerald, evergreen foliage. However, English ivy is also a non-native species in the US and will clamber defiantly into your tree’s canopy, threatening the tree’s ultimate survival. You may be tempted, as I have been, to allow this beautiful European invader to engulf the scaffold limbs of your defenseless trees, but please do not be misled by this aggressive charmer. English ivy seeks to deprive your trees of water and nutrients at first, and over time, envelop the tree’s crown and hinder its ability to create food for itself through photosynthesis. The tree is ultimately outcompeted by the vine and slowly declines, while the ivy thrives on its new framework, acquiring all the water, soil nutrients and sunlight for itself.
English ivy can be a very heavy burden for your tree to bear. It can ascend 100’ and achieve 12” diameter stems. The sheer weight can weaken limb attachments, causing failure of limbs or entire trees, especially in wind or snow events. Vigorous vines can block natural air and sun penetration to the bark and encourage pest and disease development. When bark is thickly concealed by vines, tree decay and diseases are also very difficult to observe and can go unnoticed.
If you have unwittingly endangered your trees by allowing English ivy to establish itself on their bark, take action now to exterminate this clingy aggressor. The vines should be cut at the base of the tree, removing a 2-3” section from each stem. Repeat this process at 4-5’ up the trunk. Carefully spraying or painting the section still attached to the roots with herbicide will help ensure the ivy does not regrow. Maintaining all English ivy 3-4’ away from the trunk is also a great habit. Do not attempt to remove the severed vines from the tree’s bark. This very grippy greenery is firmly attached using modified stem roots called “hold fasts” and removing the vine will remove the tree bark as well. The remaining, now dead, vines can be safely removed without causing damage to the bark in 2-3 years, if you find them unsightly.
Process to abate English ivy from a tree
4 weeks after Russell Tree Experts abated the English ivy on a large American sycamore specimen
For a free tree quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! One of our skilled arborists can tackle this important, tree life-saving task or any other tree care needs! Your trees will express their gratitude with many more years of healthy, unrestricted growth!
[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 2/20/25 from its original publish date of 3/10/23]
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]
Why is Tree Pruning Important?
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
June 26, 2025
Tree care comes in many forms: insect and disease management, fertilization, cabling, lightning protection, removal, and last but not least, pruning! Today, let’s talk about the importance of tree pruning and the various reasons why a tree may need pruned.
ISA Certified Arborist Andy Bartram making a tree pruning cut!
Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches from a tree with the general goal of improving the overall quality of the tree, whether it be for safety, health, structure, fruit and flower production, aesthetic appearance, and more. Some may view pruning as unnecessary as there are hundreds of thousands of beautiful, healthy, and unpruned trees out in the world that have grown successfully without human intervention. Although this is true, there are also many trees out in nature that are dead, dying, or unpleasant to look at. A native volunteer tree out in nature grew naturally from one of hundreds of seeds and competed with all the surrounding trees for resources. They are tough and independent and do not need any human assistance. However, the same cannot be said for a single tree or sapling planted by a human in a site where that tree might not have ever grown there naturally. These human planted trees often need extra care like watering, mulching, and fertilization in order for them to be vigorous, healthy, or aesthetically appealing.
A tree sapling planted during one of our TREE FOR A TREE® tree planting community events!
“Pruning” differs from “trimming” as pruning prioritizes a tree’s health and structure. Only the necessary limbs are removed and aesthetic appearance is a byproduct. With “trimming”, plants, shrubs, hedges, and trees are trimmed with the goal of improving their appearance. Depending on the individual trimmer, health and structure may be sacrificed in order to attain a certain look. Trimming can also cause problems as limbs might not be cut back to a spot conducive for compartmentalization and may invite pests or diseases to invade the tree.
Our team member Andrew making a tree pruning cut!
A tree may need to be immediately pruned if it poses a safety concern, such as in the event of storm damage. If there’s a large or dead limb overhanging something significant such as a house, car, sidewalk, or valuable lawn ornament, that limb may need to be preemptively removed as it could be hazardous during a storm. Additionally, codominant stems, two stems with a tight V-shaped attachment at the union, are an example of limbs with safety concerns as this can lead to included bark, lead to uneven growth in a tree, and also be a structurally weak point in a tree that may fail in high wind, snow, or ice events.
An example of a mature codominant limb. Instead of pruning it at this stage of the tree’s life, the owner decided to have brace rods installed to add additional support to this union.
Our team member Mac pruning a dead limb overhanging a busy road.
If there are any limbs with clearance issues, it may also need to be removed. This applies to limbs that are touching any house siding or utility lines or any low hanging limbs that impede lawn activities or pulling into a driveway.
Another important aspect of tree pruning is for health and structural reasons. A tree’s overall health and structure will increase by removing any dead, dying, damaged, disease-infected, codominant, or crossing limbs. Removal of these limbs promotes new growth and increased flower and fruit production. When a tree is pruned, nearby trees, shrubs, plants, and grass can also benefit by receiving more resources like sun, water, and air. These additional resources can improve aesthetic appearance and promote new growth. If the pruned tree was also close to a window you may even have a better view from inside your house or more sunlight coming in during the day!
Unruly lilacs in need of pruning.
As mentioned earlier, tree pruning can improve aesthetic appearance. Pruning does not focus on looks but removing dead, dying, broken, weak in structure, or clearance-issue limbs generally makes trees look neater, cleaner, and overall better. The pruned tree may not have a specific shape desired by an individual, but it will be healthier and safer. Another factor to consider is property value. An unmaintained tree can look unpleasant, unruly, and unsafe which can hurt the curb appeal and value of a property. When it comes time to sell, having a beautiful, healthy, and pruned tree can potentially increase property value, making it an easy worthwhile investment!
So now that you have read about the various reasons for tree pruning, you may be wondering when a tree should be pruned, how often should a tree be pruned, or how much of a tree should be pruned? The short answer is… it depends! Some trees are best pruned during a specific season and some may have no preference. For example, oak trees are not recommended for pruning from roughly April to October due to the risk of oak wilt. A sugar maple can generally be pruned any time of the year, but it is recommended to prune a sugar maple tree during the summer rather than winter to avoid sap leakage from pruning wounds, which does not pose any significant problem to the tree’s health.
Multiple water sprouts shooting straight up from a larger branch due to stress.
In terms of frequency, younger trees may need to be pruned every two to three years while more mature trees may need to be pruned every three to five years. The specific timing can fluctuate and vary based on planting site, climate conditions, potential insect and disease issues, and more. In terms of how much to prune, there should be no specific goal. Only remove the necessary branches. However, a general guideline is that no more than 25% of a canopy should be removed at one time as the tree may “go into shock” and grow watersprouts in an attempt to replace the stored energy lost from the removed branches.
If you decide to have your tree pruned, two common, incorrect methods of pruning that Russell Tree Experts strongly advise against and do not perform are tree topping and lion’s tailing. Tree topping is pruning to create a rounded canopy that often requires cutting through a stem at an improper location. Lion’s tailing is the removal of many, if not all, secondary or tertiary branches from the interior of the crown, leaving most of the foliage at the edge or top of a canopy. Although the look of both of these tree pruning methods may be desired by a specific individual, they do not improve the overall health or quality of a tree and can actually shorten its lifespan and promote decay.
Examples of improper tree pruning: Tree topping (left) and lion’s tailing (right)
Tree pruning is a very large and vast subject with much to cover. Someone could write a novel about tree pruning and still not cover every single detail. The goal of this article was to discuss the many reasons for tree pruning, not necessarily to teach someone how to become a tree pruning expert. However, we do have an article and a video on the 3 cut method that will be linked down below for anyone interested in learning how to safely and effectively remove a limb! Additionally, more tree pruning-related articles are also down below including 6 harmful tree pruning methods! (You already know 2 of them from reading this article!) As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 1/12/2023 and was revised on 6/26/2025.
Interested in Pruning Your Own Tree?
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Are Hickory nuts better than Pecans?
Are Hickory nuts better than Pecans? A Journey by T.J. Nagel
We have six native species of Hickory in Ohio: Bitternut hickory (Carya cordiformis), Pignut hickory (Carya glabra), Red hickory (Carya ovalis), Mockernut hickory (Carya tomentosa), Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) and Shellbark hickory (Carya lacinosa). Some folks believe that Pecan (Carya illinoinensis), another hickory, is also native to the Southwestern portions of Ohio. Others maintain that it has only naturalized. I personally am indifferent.
In any case, I’ve recently become interested in learning more about the subtle differences between these seven species. I want to be able to confidently identify them by their habit, bark, nuts, and buds, regardless of the season. As I have researched and explored the woods for these different trees I have decided that Shellbark Hickory is my favorite. I could elaborate further but the goal of this article is to tell you about Shellbark Hickory pie so I’m going to skip ahead.
Shellbark Hickory (sometimes called Kingnut Hickory) is a slow-growing and long-lived shade tree reaching heights of 70 - 80’ at maturity with a spread of about 40’. In Ohio, I find it naturally in bottomlands and floodplains although I’ve observed it performing well in parks and landscapes as well. It has large, 1 - 2’ long pinnately compound leaves that are dark yellow-green turning a nice golden yellow color in the Fall. The bark is shaggy, almost identical to the bark of its relative, Shagbark hickory, and the two species can be quite difficult to distinguish from one another. The two trees are so similar that I’ve noticed many folks will erroneously refer to their Shellbark Hickory as a Shagbark. I also realized recently that many of the “Shagbark hickory” I have grown up with are in fact Shellbark.
In a nutshell (pun intended), there are 3 subtle differences I use now to be able to tell the Shellbark and Shagbark hickory apart:
A Shellbark hickory leaf generally has 7 leaflets compared to the 5 leaflets of a Shagbark hickory leaf.
The terminal bud of Shellbark hickory is significantly larger than that of Shagbark Hickory
The nut of Shellbark hickory is also much larger than Shagbark, measuring 2 ½ - 3” in diameter compared to the 1 ½ inch diameter of Shagbark.
A few more interesting facts: Shellbark hickory is also a great tree for wildlife. The nuts are sweet and edible and are relished by deer, fox, rabbit, squirrel, wild turkey, ducks, and bears. Interesting side note: my dogs also love Shellbark hickory nuts. The flowers, although inconspicuous, provide nutrition for bees in the Spring as well. And historically, early settlers used Shellbark hickory nuts as a source of food as well as the tree itself for making furniture, tool handles, lumber, and fuelwood. This reminded me of the history of the American chestnut and really got me excited.
My girls this summer at the site of my best producing Shellbark hickory - note all the nuts ready for harvest in the driveway.
As I read more and spoke with more people about the merits of Shellbark hickory, I found that a lot of folks preferred this nut over the flavor of pecan. Some even claimed that Shellbark hickory was a far superior nut and that Pecan had become famous only because it has a thinner husk and thinner shell and is an easier nut to clean. Now, this is a bold statement. Folks in Texas might even consider these fighting words. I knew that I needed to form my own opinion. I decided I would make Shellbark Hickory pie for Thanksgiving.
This pie-making project started with identifying a stand of Shellbark hickory in the woods near my office in Westerville. Between mid-August and mid-October, my father, dogs and I made several weekend trips to this stand of trees to collect Shellbark hickory nuts. Most of the nuts we collected from the ground but some we picked from the trees with a pole pruner. Over the course of 2 months, we collected approximately 20 gallons of Shellbark hickory nuts. This coincided with paw paw season (Asimina triloba) which made our walks in the woods even more rewarding (next year I’m making paw paw hickory pie).
By mid-October Dad and I knew we would need to start cleaning our bounty if we were to have pies by Thanksgiving. The art of cleaning Hickory nuts by hand is a slow art and rushing will only ensure that you eat lots of shells.
Our Hickory nut cleaning process was simple - Dad used a screwdriver and a hammer to remove the hickory nuts from the husk and I used the Cadillac of nutcrackers I purchased on Amazon to crack the shells. From here we used pliers, vice grips, and even dental tools to get the kernel (the edible part of the nut) out of the grooves and different crevices of the shell. We spent 3 separate weekends perfecting our nut-cracking skills and in hindsight, I wish I had kept time so I could compare our speed to next year. The process was at least as long as three OSU games and the entire Cat Stevens discography.
Approximately one-third of our hickory nut kernels were either dried up, infested with weevil larvae, or rotten. These went to the compost. Most of the remaining kernels went into a couple of mason jars and were placed in the freezer until we had time to bake. Anything questionable was set aside for the squirrels. From our original 20 gallons of nuts, we scored about 6 cups of edible Shellbark hickory kernels. This would be enough to make 4 pies.
The following is my recipe for Shellbark hickory pie:
On Thanksgiving day I arrived at my inlaw’s table with two freshly baked Shellbark Hickory pies. I was delighted to see that my sister-in-law had also brought a homemade Pecan pie. I realized that this was the moment I had been waiting for. Today all my questions would be answered. After two helpings of the usual thanksgiving fixings, I made my way to the dessert table and cut myself two equal-sized pieces of pie. One Shellbark Hickory and one Pecan. I covered both with equal amounts of whipping cream and returned to the table. First I had a bite of Pecan. I chewed it slowly and swallowed and then took a sip of water to cleanse my palate. Then I had a bite of Shellbark Hickory. Rinse and repeat a dozen or so times and here are my final thoughts.
I like pie
My sister-in-law’s Pecan pie was prettier than my Shellbark hickory pie with all of the perfectly formed pecans laid out on the surface in a perfect basket weave configuration.
Despite our best efforts, the Shellbark Hickory pie had more shell pieces in it than the Pecan pie.
The flavor of the Shellbark Hickory Pie and Pecan pie was very similar - so much so that most folks would probably not be able to distinguish one from the other if they were not eating them simultaneously.
I think I preferred the flavor of the Shellbark hickory pie but I could be biased after everything we've been through together.
Pecan pie was a delicious and worthy opponent and I mean no disrespect to my sister-in-law or her pie-making abilities.
In all seriousness, I think what really makes Shellbark Hickory superior to Pecan for me is its local proximity (to me), having a knowledge of and a relationship with the trees that the nuts have come from, and all of the memories of my father and I together picking them.
I am in the early stages of my Hickory infatuation and still have lots to learn. If any of you possess any hickory stories, fun facts, or recipes please share them with all of us - you can do so at the bottom of this article. I have one last interesting Hickory side note to share:
I randomly stopped at Watts Restaurant in Utica, OH this Fall while working in the area. If you haven’t had the pleasure of dining there, I encourage you to do so. Watts restaurant is a staple in the Utica community. It has been around for over a hundred years and survived two pandemics so they must be doing something right. They make a number of tasty and authentic family-style country recipes and serve a number of home-baked goods including Hickory nut pie. I bought a Hickory nut pie from them to take home and decided within a couple of bites that it was better than mine. I decided I would go back to Watts Restaurant and ask more questions. I wanted to know primarily (1) what species of hickory they were using in their pie and (2) where were they sourcing their hickory nuts. Might they be from local trees or were they buying them from a faraway land?
When I returned to Watts recently to ask about their Hickory nut pie I discovered that most of their baked goods are actually brought in from Hershberger’s Bake Shop, an Amish wholesale bakery in Danville, OH. For the record, Watts Restaurant does make all of its own cream pies in-house and they are equally delicious! But I still had unanswered questions so I decided to drive to Danville and make a visit to Hershberger’s Bake Shop.
I arrived at Hershberger’s Bake Shop on a cold afternoon this week but received a warm welcome from Naomi Hershberger and two of her colleagues who definitely were not expecting to see a Russell Tree Experts truck come down their driveway. I shared with them my love of Hickory trees and affinity for Hickory pie and that I had happened across their Hickory pie in Utica and that it was better than mine. They were patient with me and answered all of my questions and this is what I learned:
The Hershberger’s are far better at baking delicious pies than tree identification and had no idea what species of hickory nut they were using in their Hickory nut pie (after careful dissection I believe it is a mix of Shagbark and Shellbark).
The hickory nuts are collected locally from native trees in Knox and Holmes counties, Ohio.
They make Hickory nut pie most of the year.
They deliver new pies to Watts Restaurant in Utica every Tuesday and Friday but only a couple of Hickory nut pies each time.
So if you want to try Hickory pie but don’t have time to collect and clean the nuts make a trip this Winter to Watts Restaurant, 77 S. Main St. Utica, OH 43080. I recommend the chicken and noodles over mashed potatoes and a Hickory nut pie to go.
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
How to Plant a Tree
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
November 15, 2022
Today I would like to discuss step-by-step how ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel plants a tree! He very kindly planted a kwanzan cherry tree for me at my house that was donated by him, Cindy, one of our office managers, and Mark, our fleet manager! At the bottom of this article is a YouTube video where you can visually follow along!
THE STEPS
First, pick out a tree! TJ and I went to Oakland Nursery and selected a kwanzan cherry tree. To help in the planting process, we brought mushroom compost, mulch, a trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe. Mushroom compost will help enrich the soil. Mulch will help with water retention, temperature regulation, protection from lawn mowers, and curb appeal. A trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe will help in the digging process.
Choose a tree planting site! We chose in front a picture window in the front yard for viewing pleasure and as it was a few feet away from any obstructions such as my neighbor’s driveway, the sidewalk, my front porch steps, and nearby plants. We also knew that we were not planting directly on top of any pipes or water lines.
Dig your hole! The hole should be slightly wider but just a few inches shallower than the size of the tree’s pot. You will want a couple extra inches around the circumference of the root ball to pack in compost and dirt. We also like to plant most trees a few inches above the surrounding ground level as the tree could settle over the next couple of years, which is why the hole can be a few inches shallower than the depth of the root ball.
Take the tree out from the pot and cut 4 straight lines across the root ball. This will break up and loosen both the dirt and roots which will help minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. Optionally, you can also clean up and remove any small or entangled surface roots.
Test fit your tree and check if the hole’s depth is adequate. As mentioned earlier, you will want a few extra inches of space around the circumference of the tree and you will want the tree to sit a few inches above the surrounding ground level. Make adjustments to your hole if needed.
Mix up the mushroom compost with the existing, dug up soil with an approximate 1:1 ratio to help enrich the soil and promote growth. You can break up any chunks of dirt to obtain a fine, well blended mixture. If a few grass blades end up in the mixture, it is okay as it will decompose and help enrich the soil with nutrients. As long as there is no significant sod or roots on the surface, there should be no significant risk of weeds. To further minimize the risk of weeds and for aesthetic purposes, we will be placing mulch over top of the soil.
Place your tree in the the hole and fill it with your blended soil mixture! Be sure to keep your tree straight and upright while filling in your hole. You will want to lightly compact the soil mixture so that way the tree is stable during windy weather and does not lean or fall over.
Water the soil!
Apply a couple inches of mulch on top of the soil! Keep the trunk exposed and not covered with soil and also avoid creating a mulch volcano in order to minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. We shaped a small, subtle and almost unnoticeable moat around the perimeter of the elevated soil level to help water flow and soak towards the trunk.
Water the mulch!
And voila, your tree is now planted! Or in this case, this beautiful kwanzan cherry tree is now planted! If there are any tags on the tree, you can remove them now if you have not done so already. Optionally, TJ also made a few minor pruning cuts but this is not always necessary.
The first year is vital for a newly planted tree’s survival so make sure that it does not lean over, that it does not get chewed on or rubbed by any animals like deer, and that it gets properly watered, which can be once to twice per week depending on the season, your local climate, and the way the tree is packaged. You can optionally use a tree trunk guard or posts to help protect your tree and keep it straight but it may not be necessary depending on where you live.
I personally would like to give the hugest shoutout to TJ, Cindy, and Mark for donating and planting this tree. Earlier this year, my sister passed away and she loves kwanzan cherry trees. She loves their spring colors, has posters and images of them in her room and on her phone, and uses the Japanese cherry blossom scent for all her Bath & Body Works products. This sentiment is incredibly touching and meaningful and I cannot be more appreciative.
As mentioned earlier, linked down below is a step-by-step YouTube video you can follow along with as well as a few related tree planting articles! Hopefully you found this article educational and entertaining!
HOW TO PLANT A TREE BY AN ISA BOARD CERTIFIED MASTER ARBORIST
ADDITIONAL READS
“How to Mulch Around a Tree”
by Enrique Arayata
“10 Trees with Amazing Fall Color… And One You Should Avoid!”
by TJ Nagel
“Why Can’t I Plant a Tree Just Anywhere?”
by Enrique Arayata
“Planting Trees for a Purpose”
by Mike McKee
Sincerely,
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
10 New Fall Favorites
This has been a great year for Fall color! The color has lasted longer than any previous season I can remember. Most of us Fall fans are familiar with and look forward to the standard maples, oaks, and hickories. Although these have all been beautiful this year, over the past several weeks I’ve noticed several additional color contenders that deserve their opportunity in the Fall garden spotlight. This article is dedicated to them.
➊
Sourwood
Oxydendrum arboreum
On my way to the Paw Paw Festival in Athens, Ohio on September 16th I noticed several groves of Sourwood along the hills of U.S. Route 33 in all their red Fall glory. And while hiking the trails of the hocking hills toward the end of October I was pleasantly surprised to see Sourwood still holding onto most of its red Fall foliage. In the landscape Sourwood is generally a small, slow growing pyramidal tree, flowering mid summer with white bell shaped flowers that remind me of Lily of the Valley. The flowers and attractive fruit persisting late into the season along with its interesting bark texture at maturity make this a great tree for all seasons. In Fairfield, Hocking and Athens counties I observed trees that were 40’+ in height. NOTE: Well drained and acidic soil is a must for this tree to thrive - Not suited for the average urban landscape without thorough efforts to amend the soil to its liking.
➋
Sawtooth Oak
Quercus acutissima
What a great tree! I’m seeing Sawtooth oak gradually getting used more as a street tree by different municipalities and also as a front yard specimen in the landscape. I’ve planted some for neighbors in my community and continue to be impressed with the merits of this tree. Sawtooth oak has great form, moderate to fast growing speed, abundant acorn crop for wildlife and nice Fall color. The leaves are a lustrous dark green all summer before during a brillant golden bronze in the Fall. Not one of our native oaks but definitely a tree to consider if you are in the market for a fast growing, beautiful medium sized shade tree.
➌
Persian parrotia
Parrotia persica
Full disclosure, this is probably my favorite deciduous tree. If I could only have one tree in my yard, this would be it. This exotic (non-native) member of the Witchazel family is a head turner year round with its glossy green foliage, interesting bark character, pink late Winter flowers and outstanding Fall color. The nursery industry has selected dwarf cultivars (cultivated varieties) , upright cultivars, variegated cultivars and even a weeping cultivar so there truly is a parrotia suitable for every landscape. This year the Fall color on my parrotia was a mix of yellow, orange, red and purple.
➍
Lacebark Elm
Ulmus parvifolia
This underutilized tree produces noteworthy Fall color ranging from yellow to pink to reddish purple. A very easy to grow medium sized tree, adaptable to most sites and soils. The mottled exfoliating bark character makes this tree stick out in the landscape year around. The columnar cultivar ‘Dannaspire’ and variegated cultivar ‘Mottled Molly’ are two of my favorite selections of this tree.
➎
Moraine Sweetgum
Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Moraine’
There can be a lot of variation in the Fall color of Sweetgum trees. The nursery industry has selected several cultivars for more reliable Fall color. Sweetgum can get a bad rep for its messy fruit but when I recently happened across a planting of Moraine Sweetgum while working on a street in Westerville, I realized what all the excitement is about! In central Ohio, the glossy dark green foliage turns to a vibrant mix of yellow, orange, red and burgundy in October!
➏
Paw Paw
Asimina triloba
If you are looking for a small exotic looking tree that provides a tasty late season treat then look no further. This easy to grow, native tree, and Ohio’s official state fruit, is adaptable, has attractive Spring flowers AND beautiful golden yellow to orange Fall color. Paw paw can make a great street tree or ornamental for smaller spaces. This year my grove of Paw Paw (which are planted as 3 consecutive street trees) produced fruit from Late August into early October.
➐
Persimmon
Diospyros virginiana
Another great native, medium to fast growing, urban tolerant and adaptable tree with edible fruit. Fall color can be yellow to reddish purple. This year some smaller seedlings in my yard developed a nice orange color while my larger street tree turned a handsome yellow.
➑
Gray Dogwood
Cornus racemosa
I have never paid much attention to this plant over the years but stumbled across an attractive grove recently while taking a walk in Franklin park. The white fruits really stood out on the dark green turning burgundy foliage. Gray dogwood is native and makes a great shrub border/screen. I have also noticed other specimens recently that have been pruned to form a small tree.
➒
Fullmoon maple & Korean maple
Acer japonicum & Acer pseudosieboldianum
I happened upon these two trees several years ago while at a nursery in Lake county and they have been on my mind ever since. If you want a hardier and interesting alternative to the more commonly used Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), consider these two trees. The leaves have a wider palm and a reliable intense Fall color.
➓
Korean Evodia
Tetradium daniellii
The city of Columbus has used Korean Evodia as a street tree along parts of Long street on the near east side. And this pictured specimen is thriving in the main parking area of the Franklin Park Conservatory. Very adaptable and medium to fast growing, this is a true summer flowering tree that provides for pollinators from June through August, sometimes referred to as the bee tree for this reason. The Fall foliage can be a decent yellow but the REAL fall show is the red to black shiny fruits that arrive late August and persist well into November. NOTE: Korean Evodia could be difficult to source but is definitely worth the search.
☆Bonus☆
White Ash
Fraxinus americana
I am so happy that we still have some nice Ash trees around town. Once as common a Fall sight as Sugar maple, the number of noteworthy White ash specimens I see in the Fall in central Ohio has been dramatically reduced by the insect pest Emerald Ash borer. When I happen upon a new healthy/vigorous Ash tree (of any species) that I haven’t seen before it makes me feel warm and fuzzy. Ten years ago I was getting calls about Ash trees every day - today it is a rarity. Here are a couple nice White ash I’ve noticed around town this Fall. Kudos to everyone who has worked diligently to help preserve this important genus.
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
TJ X BCMA®
We are thrilled to announce that our own TJ Nagel recently earned the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® (BCMA) certification! This is no average feat and we're so impressed by TJ's drive and dedication to earn the top certification in our industry!
TJ X BCMA®
We are thrilled to announce that our own TJ Nagel recently earned the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® (BCMA) certification! This is no average feat and we're so impressed by TJ's drive and dedication to earn the top certification in our industry!
“The ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® credential is the highest level of certification offered by ISA. This credential recognizes ISA Certified Arborists® who have reached the pinnacle of their profession. In addition to passing an extensive scenario-based exam, candidates must abide by a Code of Ethics, which ensures quality of work. Fewer than two percent of all ISA Certified Arborists® currently hold this certification.”
- International Society of Arboriculture
COMMENT BELOW TO congratulate TJ!
↓ ↓ ↓
The Double Tree of Casorzo
Between Casorzo and Grana in Piemonte, a region in northwest Italy, there is a cherry tree growing healthily on top of a mulberry tree with branches spreading over 5 meters long. This tree, or should I say, these trees, are known as the Double Tree of Casorzo (Bialbero de Casorzo in Italian) or the Grana Double Tree.
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 11, 2022
Today I want to talk about a rare and interesting sight: the Double Tree of Casorzo. Before anyone asks, no I am not referring to a DoubleTree hotel in Casorzo. Between Casorzo and Grana in Piemonte, a region in northwest Italy, there is a cherry tree growing healthily on top of a mulberry tree with branches spreading over 5 meters long. This tree, or should I say, these trees, are known as the Double Tree of Casorzo (Bialbero de Casorzo in Italian) or the Grana Double Tree.
Image © Alfio Cioffi
As you may already know, it is not common by any means to see a tree on top of another tree, but somehow, someway, this cherry tree managed to find its home on top of this mulberry tree. It is unclear how exactly this double tree grew to be, but one popular theory is that a bird dropped off a cherry tree seed on top of the mulberry tree. The cherry tree seed then spread its roots down through the hollow trunk of the mulberry tree and found a connection to the soil where it can absorb nutrients. The relationship between the two trees does not appear to be parasitic or harmful to one another. It is fascinating to see that the mulberry and cherry trees are able to share water, sunlight, soil nutrients, and most importantly space without outcompeting one another and growing just fine.
Plants growing non-parasitically on top of other plants are not uncommon and are known as epiphytes. Common examples of epiphytes include some species of ferns, orchids, and bromeliads, which can attach themselves to trees or other plants and absorb some nutrients from rain and air along with any other nearby debris or soil they can access; all while not harming its host. What makes the Double Tree of Casorzo unique is that most epiphytes either are small in size or have a short lifespan due to lack of space and humus. However, as you can see in the photo within this article, this cherry tree is quite tall and healthy!
I talked to ISA Certified Arborist Andy Bartram (Crew Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts) about these trees to get his thoughts and opinions. Without seeing the tree in person, he believes the bird seed theory is plausible and he’s interested to know what the cherry tree’s root system looks like. As mentioned earlier, the cherry tree’s roots could be spreading down through the hollow trunk of the mulberry tree to get its nutrients, but there is also a chance that some grafting between the cherry tree and the mulberry tree’s root system could be occurring. The cherry tree could also be receiving nutrients from any available rain and mulberry leaves. I asked Andy about the tree’s health and longevity. In terms of treatment, if the trees have been growing healthily without any human interference, then they should be left untouched. If needed, watering during dry periods or seasonal fertilization could also aid in their health and growth. On a final note, Andy was curious about the structural rigidity of the Double Tree of Casorzo. With the cherry tree’s root system being higher off the ground (or potentially grafted to the mulberry tree), it may pose a hazard during windy days for visitor safety. If so, the fence surrounding the trees is definitely necessary and may even need to be extended as the trees continue to grow.
So if you ever take a trip to Piemonte, Italy, visit this tree and feel free to share any photos or videos you take! This Double Tree of Casorzo is definitely something you do not see every day!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 3]
In this third installment of “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape”, we’re switching gears and discussing a shrub that can make for an excellent addition to your landscape – the Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii).
In this third installment of “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape”, we’re switching gears and discussing a shrub that can make for an excellent addition to your landscape – the Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii). If you’re looking for a non-native tree option instead, check out parts 1 & 2 of this series where we discuss the Japanese katsura tree and the Japanese tree lilac.
The Korean spice viburnum is native to Korea and Japan. It is a shrub-like plant, typically growing to 4-6’ in height and width, and possibly larger (to 8’) under ideal growing conditions. When maintained at a smaller size, it makes a wonderful shrub for group plantings along borders or home foundations, but can also be planted individually as a specimen plant among other landscape trees and shrubs.
The Korean spice viburnum produces pink to white flower clusters around mid-spring, with an outstanding fragrance that rivals that of the most fragrant lilacs. For this reason, consider planting this shrub as a grouping in a location where you can enjoy the fragrance, such as near a front walkway or backyard patio. As a deciduous shrub, its foliage generally turns varying shades of red in the fall before dropping. To maximize flowering, it should be planted in full sun but will tolerate light shade. Pruning to maintain size and habit should be performed after flowering.
Average size of the Korean spice viburnum
The Korean spice viburnum will tolerate higher pH levels (more alkaline) and the clay soil often found in central Ohio, but prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Care should be taken to not plant this shrub in poorly drained, consistently wet areas. Interestingly, even though it is a non-native shrub, it tolerates being planted in closer proximity to Black walnut, a native tree that produces a natural toxin that adversely affects some landscape plants.
If searching for a Korean spice viburnum at the nursery, make sure you select the right plant. Many species of Viburnum are available for use in the Ohio landscape, and they can vary greatly in size and habit. A common cultivar of the Korean spice viburnum that you may find available in the nursery that would make a suitable substitute is the Burkwood viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii), though it will tend to reach a slightly larger size in maturity.
The Entire 3-Part Series:
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 2]
In this second part of our “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape” series, we’re taking a closer look at the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata subsp. reticulata), a small to medium-sized tree that is suitable for many locations in the landscape
In this second part of our “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape” series, we’re taking a closer look at the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata subsp. reticulata), a small to medium-sized tree that is suitable for many locations in the landscape. If you’re interested in a larger shade tree for your yard, check out part 1 of this article series here, where we discuss the Japanese katsura tree.
The Japanese tree lilac is native to Japan. It is in the same genus as shrub-type lilacs, but as the name implies, has a tree-like form that provides for a different application in the landscape. With a mature height of 20-30’ and width of 15-20’, it’s a great choice for smaller spaces near patios or closer to homes, or when used in group plantings along a large driveway. It is also an appropriate option for a street tree, as it can be easily maintained to clear streets and sidewalks with a more upright, rounded canopy.
When selecting shrub-like lilacs for the landscape, homeowners often do so for the beautiful and aromatic flowers that emerge each spring. The Japanese tree lilac makes no exception in this manner, producing large clusters of white, fragrant flowers in early summer. Its foliage is similar in shape to that of a common flowering lilac, with no particularly notable fall color before leaf drop. Its bark has distinctive markings (lenticels), closely resembling that of a cherry tree.
When planting a Japanese tree lilac, be sure to select a location that gets plenty of sun throughout the day. It will tolerate less than ideal soil conditions including compact and dry sites, but thrives in well-drained, moist and fertile soils. As is the case with virtually all trees, proper amendment of the soil when planting the tree and proper after-care (watering and fertilization) will set it up for success in subsequent years.
The Japanese tree lilac has a medium growth rate. It is susceptible to a few insect and disease issues if growing in a stressful environment, but is widely considered to be the most pest-free lilac. A popular variety of Japanese tree lilac that can be found in local nurseries is ‘Ivory Silk’, a cultivar that matures to approximately 20’ in height and flowers at a young age.
The Entire 3-Part Series
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.