Stressful Situations

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
September 11, 2025

We're not so different, humans and trees. We're both born with tools to keep ourselves upright and thriving. We are impacted by many of the same stressors and overcome them in similar ways. But because the majority of you reading this are people, not plants, human responses to stress may seem obvious, while tree responses are a mystery.

Let's close this gap in understanding by focusing on common tree stressors, what they look like, and how to manage them in human terms. To maintain a light degree of stress, I'll even include a quiz at the end (not a joke - read closely!).

2 diagrams will be critical to keep in mind as you read - the disease triangle and the integrated pest management pyramid.

Disease Triangle (Copy) (Copy)

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) System Pyramid (Copy) (Copy)

The disease triangle shows disease is only possible when a pathogen, a susceptible host, and a favorable environment are all present. If any of those is lacking, disease cannot happen. 

The integrated pest management control pyramid shows the most responsible and long-term solution to pest prevention is proper culture. This means native trees planted in appropriate locations, soils rich in microorganisms, and gardens promoting pollinators and predators. In this model, chemicals are the least-used option.

Our team member Scott making a tree pruning cut!

Pruning

Luckily, the days of bloodletting as medicine are long gone. Today, we would never cut our calf to cure influenza or apply leaches to arthritic joints. Yet, that's still how we treat our trees. Aside from a few specific fungal situations and removing co-dominant leads from young trees, pruning stressed trees makes the situation worse. As with the human body, wounds should be kept as minimal and as small as possible.

Nutrient Deficiency/Toxicity

When we're hungry, we eat. Trees do, too -- an unobstructed root system and full canopy can provide a tree all it needs to succeed.

We know what starvation looks like in humans and understand the problems caused by lack of specific nutrients (decreased immune system from lack of vitamin C, fatigue and pale skin from iron deficiency, etc.), but we don't think of tree nutrition in the same way.

An example of chlorosis in a tree, likely due to an iron or manganese deficiency

In trees, nutrient deficiencies can be indicated by small, misshapen, and/or discolored leaves. A hungry tree may look wilted, or droop. It may begin to produce branches on the trunk because it no longer has the energy to pump water to existing leaves. Like us, trees can be otherwise healthy, but suffer because of a single lacking nutrient (yellow leaves due to manganese deficiency, for example).

While organic fertilizers like the ones we apply at Russell Tree Experts are nearly impossible to over-apply, excess petroleum-based fertilizers can be as deadly to trees as excess donuts to humans. Over-fertilized trees may develop bark cracks or poor structure from rapid expansion. More critically, they may outpace the natural microorganisms in the air and soil around them, leaving them reliant on humans to provide necessary food.

The point of all this is trees and humans both require a diverse diet, and are typically able to achieve it with natural feeding. Supplementation to fulfill those dietary needs is only needed if there's a specific deficiency. Fertilizing a tree stressed from drought is no more helpful than giving a sandwich to a man who's been burned.

An example of how a leaf can curl and droop due to drought stress

Heat/Drought Stress

We all know the misery of standing in the sun on a hot day. Unlike us, though, trees can't sweat or jump in a pool. Instead, they close their stomata (the pores on their leaves) to help preserve water, and shed leaves to decrease the surface area the sun can dry out.

Heat and drought stressed trees often look wilted, with dry, brown, curled leaves falling in summer. The takeaway? If you're in heat, a dose a cough syrup won't make you less hot, but drinking plenty of water will allow you to sweat and cool naturally. Similarly, it's common for trees to look unhealthy in summer, but the only solutions are cooler temperatures and more water - pruning or fertilizer only make things worse.

Pathogens

Like most illnesses in humans, most tree infections are short-lived and controlled by the tree itself. We rely on beneficial fungi, bacteria, and viruses in our guts. But trees create symbiotic (helpful for both) relationships with microorganisms in the air, water, and soil. If a disease gets past a tree's microorganism army, the tree can block its own vascular system to isolate the pathogen in place.

A Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) affected by rhizosphaera needle cast.

Also like us, healthy living prevents tree disease and shortens recovery. This means mulching the root zone, watering during drought, and yes, even applying fertilizer and pruning out diseased branches.  

The signs and symptoms of tree pathogens vary broadly. Cherry black knot and cedar-hawthorn rust develop fruiting bodies on branch tips and fruits. Crabapple scab causes premature leaf drop, while rhizosphaera needlecast causes permanent needle loss in spruces. All are host-specific - they cannot pass from one type of tree to another.

In both humans and plants, some pathogens require additional action. As with drugs in humans, fungicides should only be used on plants in specifics dosages and intervals, and should only be used as needed to prevent resistance.

QUIZ TIME!

We’ve made it to the end of this article, which means quiz time! Time to put your newfound knowledge to the test! Tip: It is an open-note quiz. If you take and submit the quiz with a passing grade (3 or more correct answers), you’ll be entered in to win a free RTE gift bag. Shipping and handling free for those in the 48 contiguous United States. Winner will be drawn on Thursday, September 18th. You may retake the quiz if you only scored 1 or 2 correct answers in your first attempt! As always, thank you for taking the time to read our articles. For a free tree work quote by 1 of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

Take the quiz HERE.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!

Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
September 4, 2025

If you’ve got a beautiful beech (Fagus) tree in your yard or your property backs up to one of central Ohio’s native woodlands, then you’ve likely noticed just how special these trees are. Their smooth gray bark, golden amber fall foliage, and nut production for local wildlife make them a favorite in both natural and landscaped settings. But in recent years, a troubling new disease has been silently making its way through Ohio’s forests, beech leaf disease (BLD).

Beech tree leaves infected by beech leaf disease.

First spotted in northeastern Ohio in 2012, BLD has quickly spread across the eastern U.S. and into parts of Canada. It’s been linked to a microscopic worm, called a nematode, that attacks beech leaves and buds. Beech leaf disease is easily recognizable by its distinctive dark green bands between the leaf veins. In the fall, the affected leaf bands can appear yellow. As the infection worsens, the leaves thicken and take on a leathery feel and may begin to curl while the nematodes spread to new leaf buds. This damage prevents the leaves from photosynthesizing properly. Repeated damage can kill young beech trees in 2 to 5 years. Larger, more mature beech trees seem to be able to hold out longer, but are still affected. Some have shown to begin losing branches from the bottom of the canopy and work upwards year over year.

Another example of beech leaves affected by BLD.

Fortunately for Franklin County and our surrounding neighbors, no infected beech trees have been observed so far. However, Delaware and Licking county residents should be on high alert because Morrow, Coshocton, and Muskingum counties are all actively dealing with BLD moving through their forests and landscapes, and it’s not showing any signs of slowing down. Thankfully, Ohio State University plant pathology professor Enrico Bonello, and assistant professor Kayla Perry are hard at work developing better diagnostic tools and treatment plans to better identify and counteract beech leaf disease. Specifically, Benello has come up with ways to identify infected but not yet symptomatic beech trees, and Perry has promising research suggesting that nematicides and potassium fertilizers can at least slow the progression, if not cure the tree. Further research is still needed, and rest assured, we at Russell Tree Experts are following them closely as the knife that is BLD plunges ever deeper towards the heart of Ohio. As a resident of Central Ohio, especially those of you in Delaware and Licking counties, you can help by taking a look the next time you see a beech tree and reporting any sightings of beech leaf disease to your local OSU extension.

American beech trees (Fagus grandifolia) transitioning into beautiful, fall color!

If you’ve ever enjoyed the shade of a beech tree, admired its golden amber leaves in the fall, or watched birds and squirrels dart through its branches, you already know how much these trees contribute to life in central Ohio. BLD is a serious threat. By staying informed, taking care of the trees we have, and supporting ongoing research, we can protect these iconic trees for future generations. Even if you don’t have a beech tree in your own yard, you’ve probably passed by one in your neighborhood, a nearby metro park, along a bike trail, or at a local school. Now’s the time to look up, take notice, and lend a hand (or a rake) in the fight against beech leaf disease. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

Set in Stone: A Letter of Gratitude, Farewell, and Exciting New Worlds

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
August 21, 2025

It’s not everyday that life-changing experiences come along that alter the trajectory of your career. It’s also not everyday that you find a supportive and inspiring employer like Joe Russell and Russell Tree Experts, that encourages you to pursue what drives you. I’ve had the good fortune of both.

I met Joe Russell in 2004 when we worked together briefly at another tree care company. The very next year, Russell Tree Experts opened for business. I began working there in 2011, took a small break from the profession after going back to school and pursuing a different field of work, and ultimately made my way back in 2019. Fast forward to 2022, and as the world is finding its way back to some level of normalcy after the pandemic, a series of events and chance encounters led to an opportunity to work abroad as a gardener and arborist in Japan. I remember how much thought I gave to this, the weight of that decision, not sure what the right decision even was. When I finally brought it up to Joe, I think he was almost more excited and sure of it than I was. Never one to miss an opportunity to lift up others around him, he said, “You gotta do it!”

The time I spent living and working as a gardener in Japan, to put it simply, had a more profound impact on my life than perhaps anything else ever has. In my work, I was able to approach new methods of pruning and garden care with a beginner’s mind while simultaneously applying over two decades of work experience. And being fully submersed in a different culture on the other side of the world was in itself an amazing experience. Having that opportunity arise in mid-life, with a few more years of life’s wisdom under my belt, made for a different experience than it would have been in my 20s, an age when people typically have the chance to pursue a travel-abroad adventure just after college. While others would probably fill their free time in Japan with Tokyo’s night-life and taking in all of the amazing food the culture has to offer, I spent mine visiting gardens. Dozens and dozens of gardens. In the last 3 months of my time there, I moved to Kyoto, the once-capital of and historic epicenter of the country, and pursued a self-study intensive of over 100 gardens throughout the city and surrounding countryside. I knew before leaving that I wanted to share what I learned and saw with others when I returned to Ohio. And, as if having the support of Joe Russell to leave and pursue a dream in the first place wasn’t amazing enough, I had a job waiting for me at Russell Tree Experts when I returned. However, as I settled back into everyday life in Ohio, a flame that had been lit inside me from my time abroad refused to go out. In fact, it grew with each passing day.

Iwakura Japanese Gardens began as a side-venture landscape business, born from that flame. I found a sense of peace and stillness in my soul while working in and visiting so many sacred spaces in Japan, and that felt like something worth sharing. The pursuit of an offering so niche as designing and building Japanese gardens, in Central Ohio of all places, may sound like a fruitless undertaking. But a “build it and they will come” approach has so far been met with a positive reception. From business locations to private residences, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the number of individuals that express a real interest in having the Japanese garden aesthetic, or parts of it, in their landscapes. Enough so that it now makes sense to pursue it full-time.

Iwakura (e-wa-ku-ra) Japanese Gardens specializes in the design and build of Japanese-style gardens and landscape features. With a focus on minimalism, elements like stone, wood, water, and select plants are used to create spaces that mimic scenes and experiences of the natural world. Empty spaces in the garden are just as important as the physical elements themselves, allowing the eyes to “rest” between elements as the garden is viewed. Like the feeling we get when we declutter a living space, a Japanese garden has strong elements, but fewer of them and only what’s essential, creating a space around you that calms and quiets the mind. For those that do not explicitly want a Japanese-style garden, many of the design elements can still be incorporated into a more traditional midwest landscape to create outdoor spaces that work with the home’s architecture and use-requirements for the space. Larger stones can be incorporated into bed spaces as a strong, anchoring element. Groundcovers and stone borders can take the place of, or reduce, the need for typical edging and mulching practices. A small water feature placed next to a patio or screened porch in the backyard can bring the peaceful sound of water and a touch of the Japanese aesthetic to the landscape. Japanese gardens work wonderfully in the biggest and smallest of spaces alike.

I’ve had the pleasure of working directly with many of you who are reading this article. A few of you even expressed words of encouragement when I informed you that I was leaving and going to Japan. For that, I thank you. My role at Russell Tree Experts may be coming to an end, but I look forward to working with them in a different capacity, and I’m grateful to be able to refer my friends, family, and landscape clients to such a trusted and respected tree care company when the need arises. Ironically, my bittersweet departure from Russell Tree Experts reminds me that nothing is set in stone, even as the gardens and landscapes that I now create are quite literally set in and designed with stone as a primary aesthetic.

I hope you will continue to place your trust in Russell Tree Experts, benefit from the educational articles they write, and support the health and preservation of trees and beautiful outdoor spaces!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

The Impact of SO MUCH Water on Trees!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
August 1, 2025

Happy Friday, August 1st! Here are 3 quick thoughts I’d like to share this morning:

1. SO MUCH RAIN!

This is the wettest growing season I can recall to date in my professional career as an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. Normally by this point in the year, I’m watering different parts of my garden daily and have set up the sprinkler on my lawn at least a few times. I have done neither of those things thus far and even found myself moving some of my container grown trees this past weekend onto the porch because they were being over-watered by mother nature and starting to show signs of stress. Despite the beautiful green lawns and lush new growth in our trees and shrubs, the high volume of rain mixed with cool overnight temperatures have resulted in some of the most prolific foliar fungal disease symptoms I have observed to date. Anthracnose, a common foliar fungal disease of oak, maple, ash and sycamore has run rampant through central Ohio and I’m even noticing it in native forest grown trees. Applescab, black spot and rust diseases on foliage have also been unusually bad. Even some trees that have been preventatively treated in the spring are developing symptoms due to the longer than normal “spring-like” wet season we’re experiencing. The good news is that most of the foliar fungal pathogens we deal with are aesthetic in their damage, often just causing leaf distortion, brown spots on the leaf surface or partial defoliation, and have little impact on the overall long-term health of the tree. Some of these diseases can be easily managed so give us a call if we can help!

An example of anthracnose

2. The Dryness is (Likely) Coming

Despite the excessive moisture we’ve had throughout the summer so far, we’re at the beginning of what has historically been the driest part of the growing season in central Ohio. August and September are the two months that I see the highest mortality of newly planted trees and shrubs due to drought stress. The drought of last August and September 2024 was historic and for the first time, I observed established trees that had been planted correctly and in the ground for over a decade dry up and die. Generally, healthy and established trees that have been in the ground for over 5 years do not require supplemental water to get them through the growing season. When we have stretches of 6 to 8 weeks without rainfall, even your established trees need help. Do not let yourself be fooled by how wet the season has been thus far. When conditions change this month, be sure to have your watering wands (and buckets) out and ready. Remember that delivering water to trees and shrubs slowly and deeply is the key and that in most cases, irrigation systems and sprinklers, although great for lawns and flower beds, will not reach the depths required to sufficiently hydrate tree roots. Last year, Russell Tree Experts began offering a new service called deep root irrigation (DRI). DRI uses a lance to inject water deep into the root system of trees and shrubs. This method helps bypass the roots of turf, weeds, or ground cover and delivers water directly to the tree roots while also reducing water lost to runoff or evaporation like you might experience if applying water at the surface level. We saved many newly planted trees and woody landscapes with this service through the end of last summer/early fall and kept a lot of newly planted trees hydrated while their owners were on vacation. Let us know if we can help you with your tree watering needs!

3. Meet New Team Members!

Lastly (but not leastly), I’d like to introduce the two newest members of our management team, Andrew Hendricks and Alex Miller. Both of these gentlemen are ISA Certified Arborists®, have a long history of excellence at Russell Tree Experts and have likely been in your yard already to prune a tree or treat for a disease/insect problem. Andrew joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been working in the green industry for over a decade. He holds degrees in forestry and wildlife management and is an avid gardner and outdoorsman. Alex has a strong background in the nursery industry and has been working to keep your trees maintained and healthy at Russell Tree Experts since 2021. These guys are dedicated to the long term care of trees and to making the world a better place. We’re fortunate to have them on staff! They’ll be out and about regularly performing consultations and estimate requests so don’t be shy if you see them in your yard. You’ll be in great hands. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!

Andrew Hendricks

Alex Miller

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

5 Tree Watering Methods Ranked Worst to Best!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
July 24, 2025

WHY WATER A TREE? 

Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best! 

HOW TO WATER A TREE?

OPTION 1
LAWN SPRINKLER 

Watering a tree with a sprinkler or hose is one method of tree watering, however, it is typically inefficient for trees and woody plants. A tree takes in water through its roots, and it is common to see sprinklers and hose operators spray water on the tree’s trunk and leaves. Not only is this an inefficient use of water, but it can lead to leaf scorch if watering is done during a bright and sunny day. A slightly more effective method would be to point the water towards the tree roots, but another issue to be cautious of is water running off and ending up elsewhere such as nearby grass, plants, concrete, or towards a sewer drain. Over time, this can also contribute to erosion through soil displacement. This can be minimized by installing a tree mulch ring with a subtle berm around the perimeter so that the mulch can retain as much water for the tree as possible. Out of the 5 tree watering methods discussed here, this would be my last option, but it is better than nothing and is a good alternative to not watering at all. 

Overall Rating: ★☆☆☆☆

OPTION 2
Water BUCKET

A second way to water a tree would be to grab a bucket, fill it with water, and then dump it over the tree’s root zone. This will do a better job at targeting the tree’s roots for proper water absorption and minimize any risk of leaf scorch by keeping the leaves dry, but water runoff can still be a concern, especially if you dump the water all at once. To minimize this, the bucket of water can be slowly distributed in a circle around the tree anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away from the trunk. A disadvantage to this approach is that too much water at one time can lead to runoff. 

Overall Rating: ★★☆☆☆

Option 3
WATERING CAN/GARDEN HOSE

Another tree watering method would be to slowly water the tree using a watering can or a garden hose on a slower, softer setting. Avoiding the trunk and canopy of the tree will eliminate the risk of leaf scorch and reduce the rate of evaporation. Watering at a slower, longer duration will help water infiltrate deeper into the root system and encourage more outward root growth. If using a watering can, I recommend watering 1-2 inches away from the surface and in a circle around the canopy drip line to minimize water runoff.  

Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆

OPTION 4
IRRIGATION LANCE 

Next up, is watering a tree with an irrigation lance! Deep root irrigation (DRI) involves the use of an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water a few inches below ground level, directly targeting the root zone of the tree. Benefits of this watering method are that it minimizes water absorption by aboveground, competing plants, and eliminates any water runoff. Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.  

Deep root irrigation is a service that Russell Tree Experts offers to customers, but an irrigation lance can also be purchased at a home-and-garden store that can connect to your garden hose at home. One detail to consider is that the water from your garden hose may not come out at a high enough psi to break up some compacted soil, but you would still be achieving the goal of watering your trees! One benefit of having Russell Tree Experts water your trees is that we can access trees hard to reach by garden hose (if they are far away from the hose bib) and also water your trees if you are not home, such as on vacation! 

Overall Rating: ★★★★☆

More on deep root irrigation!

OPTION 5
DRIP IRRIGATION

And lastly, one of the most effective and efficient methods of watering a tree is through drip irrigation. This is the process of applying water slowly over an extended period of time. Drip irrigation is very similar to method 3 (with the watering can/garden hose), but the difference is that you slow it down significantly and water over the course of an hour, or even longer depending on the size of the tree. This heavily reduces the potential for water runoff, soil/mulch erosion, and water evaporation. Due to the slower release, the tree will take in water for longer compared to a quick, few minutes of hose spraying. Less water can be used as a higher percentage of water will be targeted towards the tree and not stolen by nearby grass and plants or evaporated by the sun. 

The most expensive way to perform drip irrigation is to install an underground irrigation system with aboveground drippers poking out near the tree’s root system. A cheaper alternative is to use a garden hose nozzle with a locking system, on a low output setting like mist or soaker, to water your tree! Just don’t forget to pick it up once you’re done! Another solution is to use a bucket of water and poke 2 to 3 tiny holes at the bottom so that the water will slowly release. Be cautious as the holes can be clogged up by debris and, depending on the size of your bucket and tree, you may need to refill the bucket more than once. Lastly, another form of drip irrigation is using a tree watering bag. Garden centers typically sell 20-gallon tree watering bags that can be quickly filled but slowly released. Similar to the bucket, the holes can also get clogged up by debris and will need to be inspected periodically. 

Overall Rating: ★★★★★

Drip irrigation in action!

HOW MUCH WATER FOR A TREE? 

Now that you have learned about the worst and best ways to water a tree, you may be asking yourself “how much should I water my tree?” Well... it depends! The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) does not have set guidelines, and neither does Russell Tree Experts. A general rule of thumb is somewhere around 5 to 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (dbh). Various factors can affect the exact volume such as water runoff, evaporation rate depending on if it’s sunny or hot versus cold and cloudy, competition from nearby grass and plants, level of tree establishment, amount of precipitation during the week, and your patience and commitment to watering. For instance, a newly installed 2-inch dbh tree in the summer at full sun may need 20 gallons of water while an established, more mature 10-inch dbh tree on a cloudy, fall day may only need 50 gallons of water. 

WHEN TO WATER A TREE? 

The best time of day to water a tree is during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures are generally cooler, and the sun is less prevalent, leading to reduced evaporation and leaf scorch. Wet leaves overnight have a risk of fungal and disease issues while wet leaves in the middle of a sunny day have a risk of leaf scorch.  

In terms of frequency... it depends! A newly planted container tree will benefit from watering every 2 to 3 days and a newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree once per week for at least the first 2 to 3 growing seasons (spring through fall). A large, mature tree may not need to be watered except in periods of extended drought and can water itself through its large root system or natural rain. During sunny, summer weather, all trees can benefit from tree watering every few days. During colder, winter weather after first frost, trees may not need to be watered at all except in fringe cases such as planting an evergreen tree late in the fall. If you want the broadest rule of thumb that comes with many exceptions and caveats, water your tree 3 to 4 times per week in the summer, 2 to 3 times per week in the fall and spring, and 0 times per week during most winters, adjusting this based on the tree’s root establishment, weekly temperature, and level of precipitation during a given week. 

WHERE TO WATER A TREE? 

The answer to this question does NOT depend! The best location to water a tree is in a circle around the tree between the trunk and canopy drip line. The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. In other words, if you look straight up and do not see any leaves, you are past the canopy drip line. There is a common misconception to water a tree right next to the trunk a few inches away. Although this is not a bad location, a tree can take in water from even further away and water should be as uniformly distributed as possible to promote healthy and outward root growth! 

The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day.

CONCLUSION 

And there you have it, the essentials of what you need to know about watering a tree! The only other tip I recommend is to install a 2- to 4-inch-deep tree mulch ring around the tree to help conserve water for the tree. A tree mulch ring has a plethora of other benefits such as increased nutrient availability, better temperature regulation, decreasing the risk of stem-girdling roots, outcompeting with other plants, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and increased visual aesthetics! Just be cautious of piling mulch near the root flare/base of the tree! The mulch ring should be level, and the root flare should be exposed. As my friend and coworker TJ Nagel, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®, once said, “watering is the single most importance maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.” For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, including deep root irrigation, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

3 Tree Tips From an RTE Insider!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
July 17, 2025

I'm fortunate to have a partner that loves trees as much as I do. When I met Annette working in the nursery industry twenty-ish years ago I just thought she was cute, she made me laugh and I admired the way she helped people and animals. Over the years, Annette and I have worked together in various gardens, we have spoken together at gardening events, cared for the same clients and we have both become professional arborists. We share a passion for the outdoors, seeing new trees in new places and collecting new plants for our garden when we discover them. In short, she gets me.   

Through her gardening and consulting business, Annette has always proudly promoted responsible tree care and the work that Russell Tree Experts performs. When an opportunity came up this Spring to hire a seasonal Tree Wellness technician, I (somewhat jokingly) suggested that she apply and see things from the other side. She got the position and we got to work together once again! Over the last four months our dinner chats and evening conversations have been filled with observations, debate and education. Listening to her learn the industry was nostalgic and reminded me of why I got into the tree care industry. Annette is back to running her own business again but she will always be a part of Russell Tree Experts. Here are a few things she wanted every client to know -  written in her own words.  

1. Mulch Madness!

Don't smother your plants. In no less than 90% of the yards I visited, mulch was overdone—especially around the base of trees and shrubs. While mulch has its benefits, piling it too high can actually harm your plants.

Here's why: the root flare—the area where the trunk meets the roots—needs air and water to function properly. When mulch is too thick or pressed against the base, roots may grow upward into the mulch in search of oxygen and moisture. This can prevent them from accessing nutrients in the soil, leading to common problems like chlorosis (yellowing leaves), less vigor. Please don't forget this is important
with shrubs as well.

A visual tip: If a tree looks like a telephone pole going into the ground, it's a sign the root flare is buried—and that's worth checking.

An example of a mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed root flare.

2. Not All Fertilizers Are Created Equal

One thing that stood out to me was the quality of the fertilizer used by RTE. Unlike synthetic fertilizers that are heavy in quick-release nitrogen (which can cause fast, weak growth that attracts pests), RTE uses their own naturally composted blend. This organic fertilizer acts more like a soil conditioner—enriching the soil with beneficial microbes, improving its structure, and helping roots absorb nutrients more efficiently. It's a smarter, long-term approach to plant health.

An irrigation lance used to fertilize trees below ground level.

3. A Culture That Cares (About Plants and People)

Even after moving on from the role, I still think about how impressed I am with RTE's company culture. From top leadership and gifted mechanics to the crews in the field, the commitment to doing things right was clear.

Each week, the team holds mandatory "tailgate meetings" focused on safety, plant science, the latest climbing techniques and equipment care—something I haven't seen elsewhere in my 35 years of working in horticulture. I'm not in the habit of suggesting to someone to switch companies if they are already happy with the relationship they have with their current tree company, but my third tip is that I am even more confident referring RTE after working on the inside to homeowners or someone who wants a cool career in tree work than I already was as an observer. It is important to choose a tree company who cares about safety and determining the best method of care for the health and vigor of your trees. I'm also grateful to have a platform on which to share my observations.

And yes, I was genuinely proud to drive around in that beautifully wrapped truck with the crabapple blossoms and have so many opportunities to speak with many of you.

One of our multiple plant healthcare trucks used to help maintain and preserve trees across central Ohio!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
April 17, 2025

Flowering trees can be a great addition to any landscape. There is an unlimited range of options to add that splash of color to your property. The list is very large so I will pick 10 of my favorites that I have planted over my 35+ year career as an ISA Certified Arborist®. Flowering trees not only add a variety of colors, but additionally fragrance and many environmental benefits to pollinators, birds, and more! The timing of the blooms can be spread over several months with proper selections. There are many options among these genera, but I will concentrate on my favorites and best performers. The trees discussed in this article will stay in the small-to-medium size range.

1. Red Buckeye

I will start with one of my personal favorites, the red buckeye. Blooming in the April to May timeframe, this tall red blossom display is hard to beat in your landscape. This ovular shaped tree will produce red upright panicles that average 4 to 8 inches in length. This will make for a great specimen tree in your yard! If you’re an Ohio State fan, they will eventually produce buckeyes as well!

Common Name: Red Buckeye

Scientific Name: Aesculus pavia

Mature Height: 10 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 10 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with red flowers

Other noteworthy characteristics: Brown buckeye nuts. Brown leaves in the fall.

2. Flowering Dogwood

Dogwoods can be one of the most popular trees in central Ohio landscapes. There are many varieties which cover a wide color spectrum, mainly whites, yellows, pinks, and even some reds. These are also trees that can have all season interest due to their bark character, showy fruit, and vibrant fall color display. Cornelian cherry dogwood will be one of the first trees to bloom in the spring with small yellow flowers, but the species I prefer is flowering dogwood with its white spring bracts.

Common Name: Flowering Dogwood

Scientific Name: Cornus florida

Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves in the spring with white flowers.

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Red to purple fall color. Persistent red fruit in the winter.

3. Okame Cherry

Another of my favorite early flowering trees would be the Okame cherry. This tree typically blooms in March with vibrant pink flowers. This too is a compact tree that should stay under 25 feet tall. This tree was made famous with its display in Washington DC. It has a mild fragrance and attracts many pollinators.

Common Name: Okame Cherry

Scientific Name: Prunus x okame

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Pink flowers

4. Allegheny Serviceberry

Another tree with all season appeal would be the serviceberry. There are a few species and many cultivated varieties of serviceberry, but I prefer the Allegheny serviceberry. It produces early spring white flowers followed by edible fruit and finally, brilliant fall color!

Common Name: Allegheny Serviceberry

Scientific Name: Amelanchier laevis

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with white flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Reddish orange fall color

5. PRAIRIFIRE CRABAPPLE

The crabapple is another longtime favorite among central Ohio landscapes. There are more varieties than I can count so I will just list a few of my favorites. If you are looking for white flowers, you cannot go wrong with Adirondack. My favorite pink choice would be prairiefire, with strawberry parfait coming in a close second.

Common Name: Prairifire Crabapple

Scientific Name: Malus x ‘Prairifire’

Mature Height: 15 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Spring maroon leaves with pink flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Green leaves with red veins in the summer, bronze leaves in the fall

6. Saucer Magnolia

Next on my list are magnolias. Once again, there are too many varieties to list, but the longtime favorites are the saucer magnolia, which has pink flowers, and the star magnolia which has white flowers. The saucer magnolia typically blooms around late March to early April and puts on quite the show! If you are looking for fragrance, make sure you add a sweetbay magnolia to your landscape!

Common Name: Saucer Magnolia

Scientific Name: Magnolia x soulangeana

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with pink flowers

7. Eastern Redbud

Another early blooming favorite that is being produced with several new cultivated varieties is the eastern redbud! They are being developed with a variety of leaf colors, variation in bloom color, and growth habit as well, such as weeping. A classic selection that you cannot go wrong with is the straight species of eastern redbud with its beautiful pinkish purple flowers in the spring! This is the early flowering tree that is often seen along the edge of the woods in natural areas as well as in many landscapes. It flowers at a similar time as magnolia trees but is less likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures and Ohio’s wishy-washy weather.

Common Name: Eastern Redbud

Scientific Name: Cercis canadensis

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 35 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green heart-shaped leaves with pinkish purple leaves

8. Washington Hawthorn

One of the later bloomers in the spring would be the Washington Hawthorn. This is another tree that can have all season interest with the white flowers, fragrance, red fruit, and fall color, making this a great selection for your landscape. Its abundant red fruit supports many pollinators, birds, and more!

Common Name: Washington Hawthorn

Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves, white flowers, and red fruit

Other noteworthy characteristics: Orange and scarlet leaves in the fall

9. IVORY SILK JAPANESE TREE LILAC

Next on this list is the ivory silk tree lilac. This is a plant that produces a creamy/white plume, usually long after other trees have bloomed.

Common Name: Ivory Silk Japanese Tree Lilac

Scientific Name: Syringa reticulata

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green leaves with creamy white plumes

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Golden to bronze fall color. Cherry-like bark that is attractive in the winter.

10. American Witch Hazel

Last (or first) on this list is witch hazel! Some witch hazels bloom in early spring such as Jelena and vernal witch hazel, but a personal favorite (and classic) is the American witch hazel. This plant blooms in the fall with beautiful yellow color that persists into winter, sometimes up to early spring.

Common Name: American Witch hazel

Scientific Name: Hamamelis virginiana

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves that turn yellow in the fall and winter

This is just a small list of trees that could add a splash of color to your landscape. With a little research and planning, you can have color, fragrance, fruit, and other interesting characteristics throughout the year! Choose wisely and plan for the mature size of your plants when making selections and picking planting locations.

Please review our other articles on planting, mulching, watering, and other related topics before adding additional trees to your landscape in the coming year. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Fire Blight: More Than Just a Bad Sight!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
March 27, 2025

The Basics

Fire blight is a bacterial infection lethal to members of the Rosaceae family, which includes rose, pear, cherry, apple, serviceberry, hawthorn, and quince. While it can't be effectively cured, preventative measures have prolonged the lives of infected plants. Most importantly, disease-resistant cultivars have greatly reduced die-off rates.

What Does Fire Blight Look Like?

As the name suggests, plants affected by fire blight appear burnt. When daytime temperatures rise above 65 degrees, leaves begin to wilt, and new stems become dry and brown. Soon, whole twigs darken, and often curl into a distinctive 'shepherd's crook'.

 Fruits turn black, and are “mummified” in place. Eventually, entire branches canker and ooze. At this point, the bacteria has spread to all parts of the tree, including the root system. There are fungal pathogens and weather-related injuries with similar visuals, so tissue samples should be sent to a lab before conducting treatment.

Shepherd's Crook

Blackened, mummified fruits

Canker (Source: Ohioline)

Where Does It Come From?

Erwinia amylovora, the bacterial strain causing fire blight symptoms, can be spread by air, water, and insect and human activity. It can enter a host plant in several ways. When flowers begin to open, air and waterborne strains find their way in to the flower's reproductive organs. As pollinators visit infected flowers, they spread the bacteria to uninfected flowers. Unsealed pruning cuts, broken branches, and even holes made by sucking insects, like aphids, are other paths into the tree. As the disease progresses to the point of bark canker, the cankers themselves are entry points, and the ooze seeping out of them attracts additional insect spreaders.

Humans distribute the bacteria when they cut or move affected wood, fruit, or leaves - just as germs linger on door handles, fire blight remains alive and mobile on all living tissue and the tools used to handle it. Deer and other herbivores further distribute fire blight by feeding.

Wilted leaves with a burnt color is a symptom of fire blight.

How Bad is It?

Bad. It spreads rapidly, mutates easily, and is almost always fatal. Young infected trees can die in a single season. Healthy, established trees being managed can hang on for many years, but still typically die because of the infection. While resistant cultivars have largely eliminated the death of entire properties, even today, infected plants are almost always in the express-lane to removal.

Can It Be Treated?

Not well. The only highly effective defense is planting cultivars resistant to infection. At this time, all pear and quince cultivars are somewhat susceptible. The popular apple cultivars Fuji, Honeycrisp, and Red Delicious show strong resistance to fire blight. For crabapples, 'Prairiefire', and 'Golden Raindrops' are highly resistant, while 'Autumn Brilliance' is a resistant serviceberry tree. No popular flowering cherry varieties are at high risk.

Branches infected by fire blight should be cautiously removed. Tools must be disinfected afterwards.

The second-best protection is proper cultural practices. Fire blight thrives in moisture and humidity, so plants in full sun with good airflow and well draining soil are less prone to infection. Proper irrigation is critical. Branches displaying fire blight symptoms should be cautiously removed.

Cuts must be made at least 10 inches below the first visibly infected branch portion. Tools must be disinfected with isopropyl alcohol or bleach solutions after every cut. Cut material must be collected and discarded properly. Pruning healthy tissue for clearance or fruit production should be kept to a minimum and cuts should be kept as small as possible. High-nitrogen fertilizers, like those used on turf, should be avoided to encourage cut wounds to seal over, rather than sprout.    

 Are There Chemical Controls?

There are many, but none are particularly good. The lowest-level chemical intervention is repeated spray applications of neem or horticultural oil during flowering. The viscous oils have shown slight improvements in infection resistance by clogging the openings airborne bacteria use to enter flower sex organs. They may only be used preventatively on healthy trees and can onlytreat as high as the applicator's spray system allows.

Leaves infected by fire blight

Repeated antibiotic spray applications in early spring are a slightly more effective option. They can be used preventatively, and to delay spread in already diseased trees. Unfortunately, applying these chemicals multiple times is often more expensive than replacement.. Worse, the erwiniaamylovora bacteria can develop resistance rapidly unless many different chemicals are cycled, driving up costs further. In my professional experience, the only somewhat effective chemical control is a trunk-injectedantibiotic. This once-each-spring application is also expensive, but may stave off the advance of infection for 5+ years.

 Conclusion

While still deadly to susceptible hosts, the development of fire blight resistant cultivars has greatly reduced the rate of loss of some our favorite ornamental and fruit tree species. Planting in appropriate locations and improving pruning and irrigation practices are more effective and far cheaper than chemical controls. Submitting samples to a plant diagnostic laboratory is the only true way to confirm a fire blight infection. If you suspect fire blight is present in your trees, please call our local office at (614)-895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote to request a free quote from one of our ISA Certified Arborists®!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!

6 Harmful Pruning Methods for Trees

By Enrique Arayata

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 4th, 2025

Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner. 

The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning! 

An example of tree topping.

1. TREE PRUNING

One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues. 

An example of lion tailing.

2. LION TAILING

Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.  

A subtle example of excessive pruning. Note the small amount of interior branches that is uncharacteristic of honeylocust trees.

3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING

Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune. 

4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS

There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.  

Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut. 

Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.

5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS

Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. 

6. UNIDEAL TIMING

Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window. 

~

Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025

If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.

Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.

Example:

It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.

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What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.

(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):  

Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).

Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:

• Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms

• Plant peas when forsythia blooms

• Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom

• Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom

• Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom

• Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom

These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.

Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!

I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS

The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp

Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A

How to Prepare Your Trees for Severe Storms

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
April 3, 2025

The word “storm” can take on many different meanings: Thunderstorms, blizzards, ice storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, or one of our crew leaders Storm Wellman! Jokes aside, all types of storm events can wreak havoc on properties, causing significant damage to homes, landscapes, and personal property. Preventing storm damage is crucial for safeguarding your property and minimizing costly repairs. By taking proactive steps you can reduce the impact of severe weather. Regular maintenance and preparation are key to ensuring that your property remains protected when storms occur. In this article, we will explore practical tips to help protect your property against the destructive forces of nature.

WHAT IS "STORM DAMAGE"?

General Crew Leader Harry Carter removing a tree off of a house that failed during a thunderstorm.

Storm damage occurs when a tree or limbs from a tree fall and damage valued property. This can range from a tree limb falling on your gutter to a large tree falling onto your home. Storm damage results in millions of dollars in property loss every year. 

IS IT POSSIBLE TO PREVENT STORM DAMAGE?

While it is not always possible to eliminate storm damage, steps can be taken to reduce its impact. However, extreme storms may still cause damage despite preventive efforts. See below for useful tips to help you identify at-risk trees and limbs as well commonly employed interventions to mitigate these risks for the future. 

HOW TO IDENTIFY STORM DAMAGE RISKS 

The key to reducing potential storm damage is identifying the hazards. The following are a few simple ways to try and identify potential hazards.

1.    Look for hazardous dead limbs close to your house or other valued property

Dead limbs near a house.

2.    Try to identify declining trees on your property by looking for the following:

• A large number of dead limbs in the canopy of the tree

• The existence of conks or mushrooms which are the fruiting bodies of decay on the trunk of the tree

• In general, a tree that appears unhealthy (missing leaves, loose bark, etc.)

An example of co-dominant stems with multiple brace rods installed.

3.    Locate high risk co-dominant stems

• These are tight “V” type unions 

• May appear as multiple stems originating from one point in the trunk.

HOW TO MITIGATE HAZARDS

Mitigating the hazards within your trees can be done in many ways. At Russell Tree Experts, we can identify general and more noticeable hazards on your property during a tree inspection such as our free anytime quote or optional firm time quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®. Another option to consider is a tree risk assessment containing a thoroughly written report on a suspected hazardous tree. In this scenario, an ISA Certified Arborist® with a TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification) will employ various tools and tests from head-to-toe of your tree to assess the overall risk rating of your tree. Once hazards are identified either though a property inspection or tree risk assessment, a full mitigation plan can be put together. This plan may include, but is not limited to, tree pruning, tree removal, brace rod installation, cabling, and lightning protection to make your property safer and more resilient to storms. 

IN SUMMARY

Don’t be scared - be prepared. A well-maintained tree with regular pruning and care will be stronger and more storm-resistant. Proactively identifying hazards and putting together a mitigation plan can help save money as well as reduce headaches when storm events occur. In the event of severe storm damage caused by a tree, Russell Tree Experts provides 24/7 emergency tree services with quick mobilization. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our local, friendly office staff at (614) 895-7000!

Please note: This article was originally published on 9/19/2024 and was revised on 4/3/2025.

CHECK OUT THESE STORM RELATED VIDEOS!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Fall Webworm: An In-Depth Exploration

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6806A
August 14, 2025

As a regional manager here at Russell Tree Experts, I have been hearing many concerns from homeowners about fall webworm over the last few weeks and have seen even more in landscapes throughout central Ohio. Fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) is a species of moth known for its distinctive and conspicuous webs, which are commonly found on a wide variety of trees across North America. While not considered a major threat, fall webworm can cause significant defoliation in late summer and early fall, leading to reduced vigor and unsightly trees.

Life Cycle of the Fall Webworm

The life cycle of fall webworm is a fascinating process that begins with the emergence of adult moths in late spring or early summer. The adult moths, characterized by their white wings often dotted with black spots, are nocturnal and are seldom seen during the day. After mating, the female moth lays her eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs are small, white, and laid in clusters, often numbering several hundred.

Within a week or two, the eggs hatch into larvae, which are the most destructive stage of the fall webworm life cycle. The caterpillars are initially light green or yellow with two rows of black spots along their bodies. As they mature, they develop long, silky hairs. The larvae immediately begin to feed on the leaves of the host tree, creating a communal web that serves as both a shelter and a feeding ground. As the larvae grow, the web expands to cover more of the tree's branches. This feeding occurs from late spring to mid-summer. By late August, they typically stop feeding.

The larvae go through several instars (or developmental stages) over the course of four to six weeks. Once they reach maturity, they leave the webbing to pupate in the soil or under loose bark, where they remain until the following spring.

Habitat and Distribution

Young fall webworm insects are highly adaptable caterpillars that feed on a wide variety of plants, including more than 100 species of deciduous trees. Some of their preferred hosts include hickory, walnut, cherry, and persimmon trees.

The webs of the fall webworm are commonly found in late summer and early fall, which is how the species earned its name. These webs can cover entire branches and, in severe infestations, can even envelop small trees entirely.

Ecological Impact

While fall webworm is a pest and nuisance, its overall impact on the urban forest is generally minimal. Most healthy trees can withstand the defoliation caused by these caterpillars, and the damage is typically more cosmetic than lethal. The webs themselves, though unsightly, do not cause direct harm to the tree. The unsightly webs can diminish the aesthetic value of ornamental trees, leading to concerns among tree managers.

Management and Control

Controlling populations of fall webworm can be challenging due to the species' high reproductive rate and wide host range. However, several management strategies can help reduce their impact.

1. Mechanical Control: One of the simplest methods is physically removing the webs from affected trees. This can be done by pruning infested branches or tearing open the webs to expose the caterpillars to predators.

2. Biological Control: Natural predators and parasitoids can help keep fall webworm populations in check. Birds, spiders, and wasps are all natural enemies of fall webworm. In some cases, introducing or encouraging these predators can be an effective control measure.

3. Chemical Control: In severe infestations, insecticides may be used to reduce fall webworm populations. We generally only recommend this if the infestation is extreme or if the tree is of high aesthetic value.

4. Cultural Control: Maintaining healthy trees through proper watering, fertilization, and pruning can help them better withstand defoliation. Additionally, removing fallen leaves and other debris from around the base of trees can reduce overwintering sites for pupae.

Conclusion

In conclusion, although the presence of fall webworm can be unsightly and concerning, they are generally not a serious threat to the overall health of trees. We generally do not recommend treatment of this pest unless populations are excessive, or if a young tree is infested to the point where serious defoliation is a concern. Should chemical or physical treatment be warranted, one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote and determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 8/14/25 from its original publish date of 9/10/24]

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

The Root of Many Plant Problems in Central Ohio: Soil pH

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist
January 16, 2025​

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/16/25 from its original publish date of 4/24/24.]

You’ve probably heard the term pH. You may even think “I know this one - it means something is either acidic, neutral, or alkaline”, and that wouldn’t be wrong. But what does that mean and why does it matter? What determines the pH of soil, water, or even the human body? Like the periodic table of elements, pH may be something that reminds you of high school chemistry class, something you’ve filed away under the “when am I ever going to use this?” section of your brain, long ago forgotten and collecting dust ever since it was put there. While pH is far from being an endorphin-producing topic, it does significantly influence plant growth and overall health in your landscape. Let’s discuss the role that soil pH plays in nutrient availability, soil chemistry, and even microorganism activity, and why it matters for your plants.

pH and How It’s Influenced

pH stands for “potential of hydrogen”, and is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, ranging from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. A value below 7 is considered acidic while a value above 7 is considered alkaline (or basic). This scale represents the concentration of hydrogen ions present, with acidic solutions having a greater number of ions and alkaline solutions having fewer ions. In soils, that concentration of hydrogen ions is influenced by things such as the parent rock material that originally formed the soil, human activity, climate, and the presence or lack of organic matter. In turn, the resulting pH will influence the availability of nutrients essential for plant growth, microbial activity that helps with nutrient absorption, and soil chemistry that influences the breakdown of soil particles into more usable forms. Of the influencing factors mentioned above, parent rock material and the presence or lack of organic matter often go hand in hand and are the most significant influencers in our central Ohio landscapes. Central Ohio largely consists of limestone bedrock, which naturally has a higher pH than what’s preferable for most plants. So you might ask “Well, how is it then that any plants can be healthy and thrive in central Ohio?”. The answer is organic matter. In an undisturbed, natural environment like the forest, years and years of organic matter have formed on top of the infamous “Ohio clay” subsoil that we encounter in our backyards. The source of this organic matter comes from falling leaves, dead branches and trees, and dying organisms just to name a few, that collect on the forest floor year after year, decade after decade. These are all things we tend to remove from our landscapes to keep them tidy, which results in a lack of organic matter formation over time. For more on how to address this topic, check out our Arbor Ed article “Leave those Leaves!”

Nutrient Availability

Chlorosis in a pin oak tree in Bexley, Ohio

pH influences the availability of essential nutrients in the soil by changing their level of solubility. This simply means that pH will determine whether or not these nutrients are in a form that can be absorbed by the tiny roots and roots hairs of plants. Most plants will prefer growing in soil with a pH range between 6-7, slightly acidic to neutral. When the pH is out of its optimal range for a particular plant (generally too high in central Ohio), the plant’s growth may slow, it may lose overall health and vigor, or conditions like chlorosis can develop because that plant isn’t getting the nutrients it needs to carry out essential functions for growth. Chlorosis, or yellowing of leaf tissue, is a very common condition in central Ohio and can be seen most often with trees like pin oak, red maple, white pine, and river birch. It’s interesting to note that these are trees that are either native to Ohio or an adjacent region. In their natural habitats where organic matter is abundant, soil pH is lower and nutrients are readily available for uptake. The parent material, derived from limestone and having higher pH levels, does not affect the trees since the absorbing roots are largely growing in the organic layer above it. In our backyards however, carpeted with lawn but cleared annually of leaves, higher pH levels can quickly cause issues even with otherwise healthy trees.

Chart showing availability of essential elements at various pH levels

Microbial Activity

pH affects the activity of microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms are essential for plant health, helping plants to absorb certain nutrients, or aiding in the breakdown of organic matter into available forms for your plants. Certain fungi, bacteria, or insects that benefit a particular plant will naturally thrive in the same pH that is ideal for that plant. Encouraging the proper pH for your plants in turn helps to foster a healthier population of these important helpers in the soil. In the same way that our own bodies are influenced by the health of our gut bacteria, plants rely on microbial activity in the soil. Without it, they can struggle to carry out essential functions for proper growth and overall health.

Soil Chemistry

Similar to nutrient availability, pH can affect the chemistry of the soil and determine whether or not the available nutrients will be absorbed by roots. It also influences the composition of the soil, helping certain minerals to break down into smaller molecules, ultimately affecting the charge of soil particles and the ability for the soil to hold on to essential elements that could otherwise be removed from the soil. A good example of this would be a soil’s ability to retain certain nutrients by preventing them from getting washed out of the soil by irrigation or rainfall. Acidic soils tend to be better at retaining more of these charged nutrients. It's no coincidence then that most plants prefer acidic or slightly acidic soils, as the lower pH makes those soils richer in nutrients and more “user friendly” for plants.

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Soil pH plays a significant role in the overall health of trees, shrubs, and other plants in our landscape. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way in helping to understand the unique issues you may have in your central Ohio landscape. Below is a list of a few things you can consider in determining what’s best for your yard.

• Have a soil sample from your yard submitted for analysis to help determine if there is a pH issue or nutrient deficiency.

• If you know that you have higher pH levels, consider planting trees and shrubs that are more tolerant of alkaline soils.

• Try incorporating more organic matter into your soil by allowing leaves to decompose in landscape beds over the winter, and consider enlarging groundcover or mulch beds around trees (less lawn)

• Have root zone invigoration work done for trees that are struggling with nutrient deficiencies and/or soil compaction.

• Apply pH lowering products to landscape beds with particularly sensitive trees or shrubs (note that this is something that generally needs done annually, as permanently lowering the pH of soil with additives is next to impossible).  

As always, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree quote by giving us a call at (614) 895-7000 or by visiting RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote

Additional Tree Preservation Articles!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Tree Bracing 101

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 27, 2024

Trees adorn our landscapes, offering shade, beauty, and a connection to nature. However, ensuring their structural integrity and stability is vital for their longevity. Common tree preservation services that you may be familiar with are tree pruning and mulching. Other uncommon services could be cabling or trunk injections depending on the specific tree. However, throughout my 4+ years of working at Russell Tree Experts, one service that I have not heard of up until this year is tree bracing! Let's delve into the world of tree bracing to understand the process and benefits!

What is Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing? I couldn’t initially picture what this meant when first hearing it. Let’s first break down tree bracing into two words. Tree. Bracing. Tree: A woody, perennial plant typically having a single stem. I know what that is. Brace: To make (something) stronger or firmer, or to prepare for something difficult or unpleasant. So would it be a solid guess that tree bracing is the process of making a tree stronger? Yes! That’s exactly what it is!

Tree bracing is a tree preservation service to reduce the risk of two or more stems from splitting apart or to fasten a split or cracked union together, thus improving the overall structure of your tree. This is achieved through the installation of brace rods to prevent select tree unions from spreading or twisting apart or to prevent a split or cracked union from worsening.

This sounds great! Let’s start bracing every single tree to improve their overall structure! Well, not so fast. Only certain trees will stand to benefit from tree bracing. Just like fertilizing trees with manganese or iron to treat a manganese or iron deficiency, this service is only recommended for trees that need it, otherwise there would be either no noticeable effect or even a decrease in structural rigidity. Just like with pruning, which involves removing (or “wounding”) the tree’s crown of undesired parts, bracing is a semi-invasive procedure that involves installing large threaded steel rods into the trunk of the tree, so we only want to install brace rods when the net result is positive and beneficial. 

What Trees Should Be Braced?

So what trees should receive tree bracing? Well, as mentioned earlier, trees with a split or cracked union could benefit from brace rod installation. A split or cracked union should be easy to spot, especially in the winter in the case for deciduous trees as there is little to no foliage. A limb can split or crack due to various reasons like included bark (bark that is partially or fully embedded into the tree’s wood), improper pruning, disease, and storm damage from adverse weather like lightning, heavy winds, rainstorms, and thick layers of ice just to name a few. A split or cracked union can also occur from structural defects like large, long, horizontally growing limbs and codominant stems. If the limb is large and long and growing more horizontal rather than vertical, there could be a lot of weight-related stress near the union that could cause it to split if the limb is not supported properly or if end-weight reduction pruning does not occur. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems originating from the same point of the tree and growing in the same, general direction. They can be characterized as having a tight “V” shape near the union or by both of the limbs competing to be the central leader of the whole structure. This is not ideal for a tree’s structure as they are prone to splitting during adverse weather conditions. In scenarios where removal of the branch or tree is not viable or preferred, tree bracing serves as a beneficial solution or alternative.

What Are the Benefits to Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing can be beneficial for a tree as they can minimize movement, ensuring the splits or cracks do not occur or worsen, especially during strong weather. A tree with poor structure or a split or cracked union may not want to be removed by the owner as it is a specimen tree (a tree chosen as a point of focus in a landscape) that provides aesthetics, shade, real estate value, or more. For some trees, it may also be unnecessary to remove them simply because of one or two weak, treatable unions that could even be healed over time. Tree bracing aims to improve the tree’s structure at a choice union and to give its owner more peace of mind that a union or limb has a decreased chance of failing, which would potentially end the tree’s life, or to keep it from falling onto something like a house, car, driveway, or anything else near the tree.

The Tree Bracing Process

Here at Russell Tree Experts, we use the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices to help guide us! With that said, before tree bracing begins, we typically prune the tree's crown to reduce weight and then install one or more cables in the crown to support the suspect union(s) from above. Once these initial steps are complete, we install a specified size and quantity of brace rods in your tree in accordance with the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices. The size and quantity is determined by factors such as the tree’s diameter below the union, number of limbs or unions being cared for, and whether or not there is or is not a split or crack present. To install the brace rods, holes are drilled straight through the tree near the union. The threaded brace rods are then fully inserted and will have excess rod on both ends. The brace rods are then secured with one or more washers, a lock washer, and a nut on both ends. The connections are then tightened as firmly as possible. Afterwards, the excess length of threaded rod is cut off close to the nuts and subsequently peened off to prevent any movement of the nuts. And voila! The end result is a tree with increased structural integrity and a reduced chance of failing! 

I talked with my coworker Jacob, our Training & Development Manager and an ISA certified arborist, read through the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices, and looked at other resources online to see if it was an acceptable practice to drill holes through a tree to install brace rods. After considering a variety of sources, the general consensus is that the overall impact is minor because almost all of the drilled wounds are filled with threaded steel rod (except a 1/32'' gap), allowing the tree to compartmentalize the wounds rapidly, and that tree bracing should be done on trees that have a bigger concern to worry about, such as two codominant stems or a split union.

Professional assessment is imperative to determine the necessity of bracing for a tree. Signs such as co-dominant stems or split or cracked unions should prompt owners to get an opinion from an ISA certified arborist. After researching, observing, recording, and photographing various trees being braced, I felt empowered and motivated to share my newfound knowledge on this not-so-commonly heard of tree preservation service! The main purpose of this Arbor Ed article is to educate and share my findings, but Russell Tree Experts does provide tree bracing services should you want or need it! Our regional managers are all ISA certified arborists and can provide a free inspection and quote! Below are some videos about tree bracing! 

Learn More About Tree Bracing!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Tree Work in the Winter?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2025

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/25 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]

“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.

Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.

Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.

Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.

Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.

With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.

One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!

As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

The Year of the Ugly Boxwood

Dear Reader, 

My good friend and arborist colleague Cat Baumgartner wrote the below article for the Inniswood Garden Society’s quarterly member newsletter (known as The Image). As soon as I read it, I knew that I wanted to share it with all our readers. Cat does a thorough job of describing the most serious problems we have had with boxwood this year and she explains them well and in simple terms. She has generously agreed to let us republish it. Photos within the body of Cat’s article are courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County.

- TJ Nagel, Russell Tree Experts

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The Year of The
Ugly Boxwood

by cat Baumgartner, Oakland Nursery

I don’t have a simple answer. Or there are multiple answers, and your boxwood might have one, or several of the problems at once.

I’ll go over the likely suspects for this year- including winter damage, or ‘winter burn’, Boxwood Leafminer, Volutella Blight, and THE Boxwood Blight.

I’ll start with winter burn. Boxwood store a lot of their energy in their leaves through the winter. When we get extreme cold and wind in the winter, the leaves will lose more moisture. If the ground is frozen or dry (or worse, both), the leaves lose moisture faster than the roots can replace it, and we get the ‘burn’, where they turn a straw color and die, staying attached to the stem. It wasn’t noticeable until early spring, because evergreens have a delayed reaction to stress. It’s why we can cut down trees for Christmas and they don’t immediately turn brown, often lasting months. We did have greater than normal rainfall last year, but the three months leading up to late December were on the dry side. So, the ground was dry leading up to the extreme cold event that hit in late December creating a Double Whammy. There was a lot more winter burn this spring than I’ve seen in decades. It looks like straw-colored sections in the shrubs, often in a random pattern.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Next, there are different blights out there that can affect boxwood. ‘Blight’ is a general term for a plant disease, typically caused by a type of fungus. Most of them are less common and less damaging than the blight striking fear in the hearts of gardeners that is Calonectria pseudonaviculata, called simply “Boxwood Blight”. There have been some isolated cases in the Greater Columbus area. The main symptom though is defoliation. You’ll have green leaves, then they’ll start looking funny, and rapidly progress and fall off the stem. In a matter of weeks, you can go from a healthy-looking plant to one with sections with completely naked stems. Definitive identification requires lab testing. Other blights can show similar symptoms, but since some are more treatable, confirming which type of blight your boxwood might have is recommended before removing plants. If you do have “Boxwood Blight,” replanting with more boxwood is not recommended, so confirmation of what kind of blight you have will also tell you what you can plant in that spot. Most of the damage we’ve been seeing is NOT “Boxwood Blight.”

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Volutella Blight or Pseudonectria Canker (Pseudonectria buxi) can be damaging but is not necessarily a death sentence often just affecting individual stems and not whole portions of the plant. Symptoms can be seen if the stem is sliced into, showing dark brown streaking just under the bark. Most twigs infected with Volutella blight will turn straw colored and die. In most cases dead stems from Volutella canker can be easily pruned out and the remaining portions of the boxwood will fill in slowly over time. 

This year we also had frost damage in May. If leaf buds are still tight, frost is not a problem. If the new leaves have emerged, but have ‘hardened off’, it is also not a problem. But if the new growth is timed so that it is new, fresh and tender, and then we have a late freeze, the new growth is damaged, turns that sad straw color, and is aesthetically at least, a problem. A healthy shrub can put out another round of growth, and it is not a long-term problem. Trimming off the burnt new growth is all that needs doing.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Boxwood Leafminer, an insect pest, is an ongoing problem. The damage from leaf miner is more generalized, an ‘all-over’ bad look rather than the chunky sections dying back. The adults lay eggs in the new growth in mid-spring, and as the larval stage hatches and begins to feed on the interior tissues, the leaves start looking bad, often having a blistered or bubbled effect, usually easier to see from the bottom of the leaf.   

Preventative sprays can thwart adult leafminers from laying eggs in the new growth, but need to be applied as you see the new growth. Systemics applied in the Fall or Spring can also provide control but know that boxwoods are insect pollinated. 

If you don’t have Boxwood blight, you have two options. Cut out the dead branches and let the plants regrow which may take three years or more to totally restore, in good condition, or replace the plants.

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A Final Note…

Since Cat wrote her article, we have had several boxwood shrubs test positive for yet another disease, Colletotrichum theobromicola (also referred to as boxwood dieback). This is a new disease for central Ohio and symptoms look similar to other blight diseases with the random dieback of twigs and straw-colored foliage. However, in addition to twig dieback, the pathogen also causes leaf spots that appear white in the center surrounded by dark brown margins as well as a bright black discoloration just beneath the bark along the twigs. The jury is still out on the best way to attempt to manage this disease but for now, good cultural practices such as removing symptomatic plants and sterilizing pruning tools between pruning different plants are the best-known strategies. Fungicides might also be helpful, but efficacy has not been determined. Laboratory testing should be used to confirm boxwood dieback because it can easily be misdiagnosed as other blight diseases. 

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Twig Dieback (Colletotrichum theobromicola)

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Leaf Spotting (Colletotrichum theobromicola)

As we continue to have more problems in the landscape with boxwood, it may be time to consider alternative plants that can achieve a similar function. Stay tuned for my boxwood replacement article later this Fall.

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!

When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?

Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!

Two examples of trees with codominant stems

You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant. 

Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau

To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.

So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years. 

However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:

End-Weight Reductions

• Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.

Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.

Cabling Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.

A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.

Through-Brace Support System

• Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.

Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.

Propping Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.

A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.

All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.

Magnolia Scale: They're Back!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 7, 2025

Is your magnolia tree turning black? Is it attracting ants, flies, bees and wasps? Is there a sticky substance covering the leaves and everything under the plant? If you look closely, you will also see white blotches on the twigs throughout the tree.

Over the last few years, this recent invasion of magnolia scale in central Ohio has been intense and unlike what I have observed back in the 2010s. They happen to thrive in warm summers with abundant moisture. The population is building and is very apparent this year.

The insect overwinters on twigs and is inconspicuous to the untrained eye until it starts feeding and producing honeydew. Honeydew is the very sweet, sticky substance secreted by the insect that in turn coats the leaves and anything under the plant. This is what attracts other insects to the plant. Eventually the insect covers itself with a waxy coating that protects it while feeding. These are the white blotches we are now seeing on the plants starting early summer through August.

Nymphs emerging from a recently plucked adult Magnolia Scale

The juvenile stage of magnolia scale emerges from these waxy coatings (the adults) in mid to late August through September as crawlers. This is when scale are most vulnerable to insecticides and we attempt to control their population. We typically recommend 2 to 3 topical insecticide sprays during this period spaced a couple weeks apart for the best control of the insect due to the extended emergence. During seasons with larger infestations, it is unlikely that insecticide sprays will completely eliminate this insect. The overall goal of plant healthcare is to keep the population at a threshold that minimizes damage and maintains aesthetics of the host tree.

If the tree’s owner is concerned about the population of magnolia scale before the appropriate window for insecticide applications is open, there are a few DIY options that can be done. First, the insects can be scrubbed off from branches and leaves in June and July. This is when the adults are visible before the hatch begins. You could also prune out heavily infested Interior branches to help reduce numbers. Be sure to completely dispose of any pruned branches as the insect will still hatch. Spraying the trees with a medium pressure garden hose can also eliminate some insects as well as reduce the honeydew on the plants.

The insects feed by sucking sap out of the tree. If left untreated the scale population can grow to levels that will cause decline and eventual death in your tree.

Another issue with magnolia scale is the occurrence of sooty mold which is a byproduct of the honeydew produced by the scale. It is a black fungal growth which is what most people notice first. Although this generally does not harm the tree, it is very unsightly.

In closing, if you suspect your magnolia tree has magnolia scale, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote and one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists® will visit your property to come out and complete an inspection! From there, we can recommend the best management strategy for your magnolia tree. Timing is everything.

Please note: This article was originally published on 8/9/2023 and was revised and republished on 8/7/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

English Ivy: the Silent, Selfish Assassin

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
February 20, 2025

English ivy climbing the trunks of your trees can look so natural and attractive in the landscape.  It is a lovely and effortless groundcover with glossy, emerald, evergreen foliage. However, English ivy is also a non-native species in the US and will clamber defiantly into your tree’s canopy, threatening the tree’s ultimate survival. You may be tempted, as I have been, to allow this beautiful European invader to engulf the scaffold limbs of your defenseless trees, but please do not be misled by this aggressive charmer. English ivy seeks to deprive your trees of water and nutrients at first, and over time, envelop the tree’s crown and hinder its ability to create food for itself through photosynthesis. The tree is ultimately outcompeted by the vine and slowly declines, while the ivy thrives on its new framework, acquiring all the water, soil nutrients and sunlight for itself.

English ivy can be a very heavy burden for your tree to bear. It can ascend 100’ and achieve 12” diameter stems. The sheer weight can weaken limb attachments, causing failure of limbs or entire trees, especially in wind or snow events. Vigorous vines can block natural air and sun penetration to the bark and encourage pest and disease development. When bark is thickly concealed by vines, tree decay and diseases are also very difficult to observe and can go unnoticed.

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If you have unwittingly endangered your trees by allowing English ivy to establish itself on their bark, take action now to exterminate this clingy aggressor. The vines should be cut at the base of the tree, removing a 2-3” section from each stem. Repeat this process at 4-5’ up the trunk.  Carefully spraying or painting the section still attached to the roots with herbicide will help ensure the ivy does not regrow. Maintaining all English ivy 3-4’ away from the trunk is also a great habit. Do not attempt to remove the severed vines from the tree’s bark.  This very grippy greenery is firmly attached using modified stem roots called “hold fasts” and removing the vine will remove the tree bark as well. The remaining, now dead, vines can be safely removed without causing damage to the bark in 2-3 years, if you find them unsightly.

Process to abate English ivy from a tree

4 weeks after Russell Tree Experts abated the English ivy on a large American sycamore specimen

For a free tree quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! One of our skilled arborists can tackle this important, tree life-saving task or any other tree care needs! Your trees will express their gratitude with many more years of healthy, unrestricted growth!

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 2/20/25 from its original publish date of 3/10/23]

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]