Four Trees that make me go Woah!!
There are 60,000+ tree species around the globe, making it hard not to be amazed by their diversity, uses, adaptations, and unique appearances. In this article, I’m going to highlight 4 trees that have always captivated me for their form, resilience, and remarkable adaptations.
By Laura Howell
January 22, 2026
There are 60,000+ tree species around the globe, making it hard not to be amazed by their diversity, uses, adaptations, and unique appearances. In this article, I’m going to highlight four trees that have always captivated me for their form, resilience, and remarkable adaptations.
1) Rainbow Eucalyptus Tree (Eucalyptus deglupta)
Source: @experiencehawaiitours on Instagram
What do you think of when someone mentions eucalyptus? How it’s helpful when you have a stuffy nose or maybe cute koalas eating their leaves? But do you think of their trunks? What many people may not know is how beautiful eucalyptus trees, particularly their trunks, are. In 2019, I was driving down the coast of California and got to see a eucalyptus forest for the first time. The most beautiful, in my opinion, is the rainbow eucalyptus tree. That may be a bit of a grand statement given I have only seen a few of the 700 types of eucalyptus trees.
Source: One Earth
The rainbow eucalyptus bark peels off and exposes the colorful layers underneath a few times a year, as a form of shedding. When the bark first peels off, it is green underneath. As the new layer is exposed to air, the colors begin shifting because of the tannins in their cells. The colors displayed through the tannins are shades of pink, purple, blue, orange, and maroon. Because the bark peels at different times, the missing strips are all different colors causing the trees to look painted. If you want to see one in person, you can find them in the US in California, Texas, Florida, and Hawaii.
Fast facts
Scientific name - Eucalyptus deglupta
Mature Height – In the US: 60 to 125 feet tall; in the rainforest (natural habitat): 100 - 250+ feet tall
Growth Rate – Fast up to 3 feet annually
Interesting Fact – While the rainbow eucalyptus isn’t native to the US, the monarch butterfly has begun over wintering in the California eucalyptus trees.
2) Dragon Blood Tree (Dracaena cinnabari)
Source: The Revelator
I remember seeing a bottle of “dragons’ blood” in a store. I bought it for the curiosity’s sake of what this dragon’s blood might look like, and it was indeed bright red, like blood. It turns out this bottle of “blood” came from dragon blood trees. These trees grow in the high mountains of Socotra Archipelago, Yemeni islands. The sap has been used throughout history for its medicinal purposes and as red dye. The tree itself doesn’t produce visions of large flying reptiles or dramatic blood colored sap; it’s always reminded me of a large umbrella that has been turned inside out from the wind.
Like an umbrella, this tree uses its long waxy upturned leaves to capture the morning mist and channel it down the branches to its trunk. Because of the hot and dry climate, the dense canopy provides protection to any water that might accidentally drop onto the ground from evaporation. Even though the dragon blood tree struggles for each drop of water, it still produces flowers in the spring and fruit that takes five months to ripen that is eaten by local wildlife.
Fast facts
Scientific name - Dracaena cinnabari
Mature Height – 30 to 40 feet tall
Growth Rate – Very slow can take up to 10 years to reach 4 feet
Interesting Fact – The dragon blood tree does not have rings that can be used for aging
3) Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides)
Source: New Scientist
The quaking aspen tree is a newer species of tree that I’ve been learning about, and I am excited to share some of the highlights. The specific male quaking aspen I am going to share details on is called the Pando tree located in Utah. Pando means ‘I spread’ in Latin. The reason this is a fascinating tree in my opinion is because this tree clones itself. The Pando has over 40,000 cloned stems that spread across over 100 acres. When the Pando loses a “tree,” aka clone in the colony to age/damage/disease, through a process called suckering, it will send a new genetically identical shoot upwards.
Source: Friends of Pando
The root system which connects and supports all of the clones is over 16,000 years old. The cloned trees themselves are not older than 130 years. While the age of the root system is incredible, it does not make this an old growth because the individual trees are only at most, about 130 years old. The root system makes it one of the oldest and largest single organisms in the world. Both male and female quaking aspen trees clone themselves through suckering. Because of this, any single colony will be male or female. While quaking aspen trees are able to produce new trees through seeds, the most common method is cloning.
Fast Facts
Scientific name - Populus tremuloides
Age – Roots 16,000 years and trees 0 to 130 years
Mature Height – 20 to 50 feet tall
Growth Rate – 1.5 to 2 feet per year
Interesting Fact - Quaking aspens grow year round
I was torn with which tree to close this article out with. The two trees I went back and forth on were the weeping beech and the dawn redwood. Both hold a place in my heart, but the dawn redwood won for the Ohio connection and an amazing comeback story.
4) Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides)
Source: Reflection Riding
According to fossil records, the dawn redwood existed 50-100 million years ago before going practically extinct. It is a unique tree because it is one of the few conifers in its family that loses its leaves in the fall – making this conifer a deciduous tree. With it being a deciduous tree, it is believed that that is why it’s so common in fossil records until its assumed extinction after the last ice age. But in the 1940’s, a Chinese forester named Wang Zhan found a living specimen in the Sichuan province of China, making this tree known as a living fossil!
In 1948, a seed gathering mission begun in China to protect the dawn redwood from actual extinction. Now for the Ohio connection, there were two universities that received seeds from that first gathering mission: OSU and… OSU! Oregon State University and The Ohio State University. There are multiple places around Ohio where you can personally go see the living fossil.
The Ohio State University - Main Campus
OSU Secrest Arboretum in Wooster – Planted in 1953
Dawes Arboretum – largest grove outside of China
Shepley Garden in Birmingham
Akron Zoo
Fast Facts
Scientific name - Metasequoia glyptostroboides
Age – Oldest known is approximately 400 years old
Mature Height – 70 to 100 feet tall.
Growth Rate – FAST. Up to 4 feet per year in ideal, native conditions
Interesting Fact - Dawn redwoods can grow in the northern hemisphere in zones 4-8
We often admire trees for their beauty or shade, but when you look closer, you discover entire histories written in bark, roots, sap, and leaves. I hope you’ve enjoyed exploring these trees as much as I’ve enjoyed sharing them!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Laura Howell | Human Resources Generalist, Russell Tree Experts
Laura joined Russell Tree Experts in January 2025. She supports our staff through her role in the HR department. Laura is an alum from Franklin University and CSCC with degrees in forensic accounting and finance. Outside of work she enjoys traveling, gardening, and camping.
“Lichen? Moss? Why are you on my tree?”
On a winter hike at your local park or preserve you notice small green circles on the trunks of nearby trees. Upon closer inspection you notice leaf-like structures in a circular fashion. Congratulations, you have just found the…
Andrew Hendricks
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7089A
January 15, 2026
On a winter hike at your local park or preserve you notice small green circles on the trunks of nearby trees. Upon closer inspection you notice leaf-like structures in a circular fashion. Congratulations, you have just found the Common Greenshield Lichen (Flavoparmelia caperata). A quick glance around reveals more lichen and mosses covering parts of trees all along the trail. Now you ask yourself “Are these benevolent acquaintances or are they treacherous foes trying to slowly devour our beloved trees?” Let’s break down the facts of these little suspicious growths: What are they exactly, where do they come from and do they hurt trees?
Moss growing on a tree.
Lichen are fascinating organisms not only because of their symbiotic relationship between fungi and algae, but also for the fact that there can be multiple fungi partnering with multiple algae in one specimen! Fungi give the structure of the overall organism, while algae provides sustenance for both through photosynthesis, “Lichens are a case of fungi that have discovered agriculture” -Trevor Goward, Naturalist. Lacking formal training in biology, Trevor Goward, a citizen scientist, has contributed to the scientific community through his observations in Wells Gray Provincial Park. One notable contribution was in 2016 his research led to the discovery of lichens containing a second fungal partner.
Moss growing on a rock (in the shape of a heart!)
Mosses on the other hand, are similar to trees in that they produce their own energy through photosynthesis but lack true vascular tissues. Lacking flowers is another trait of the mosses otherwise known as bryophytes to the scientific community.
Ecologically speaking, lichens are a pioneer species; meaning they’re the first organism to colonize rocks and help build soils for higher forms of life like mosses. Lichen and moss can both spread across the landscape by spores or vegetatively, where small pieces break off and start anew. Wildlife, such as birds, will utilize different lichens or mosses in building nests. For example, the water-ouzel comes to mind from reading John Muir books; these lovely little birds make their nests near the edge of creeks almost entirely of moss. “These are deftly interwoven, and felted together into a charming little hut; and so situated that many of the outer mosses continue to flourish as if they had not been plucked” notes John Muir. Closer to home and a bit smaller are the Ruby-throated Hummingbirds, they will weave lichen into their nests to camouflage from predators.
Mostly moss (green) growing on a tree with some lichen (light blue-ish gray) on the rock and tree.
Mosses and lichen are epiphytic (non-parasitic) plants using other plants as growing sites. They prefer moist locations such as swamps or high humidity areas. Looking in our yards, we can find lichen in undisturbed sites exposed to sunlight and most important of all, clean air. I can find some lichen and moss on the redbud tree in front of our house; these are of no concern. A common belief is that lichen and moss kill trees because they are the ones present when a homeowner notices a dead tree in their yard. That is similar to blaming smoke for a fire instead of the match that started it. A surplus of lichens or mosses may be signs of a stressed tree due to a thinning of canopy and not the cause of your declining tree. Signs of a declining/stressed tree include but are not limited to browning or yellowing leaves, dead branches and smaller than average leaves. Causes for this may be environmental such as drought stress, poor soil fertility or extreme temperature changes. Other causes could be due to pests or diseases; lichens and mosses however are not stressors rather they are taking advantage of an increase in light due to a thinning canopy. The best thing for your trees is to provide a healthy environment that is stress free so they can do what they do best and keep reaching for the light. The only thing lichen and mosses are killing is time. Sit back and relax while marveling at our little neighbors as they come together in partnerships, exploring new sites, challenging the way we think about them and all the while building precious soil.
Close up of lichen
For more in-depth reading on lichens, check out chapter 3 of Entangled Life (Merlin Sheldrake, 2020) from our Winter Reading List ARBOR ED™ article by my coworker and ISA Certified Arborist®, Mitch Lippencott! For incredible up close photos, I recommend Ways of Enlichenment, a website started by Trevor Goward located in British Colombia. For something more local visit the Ohio Moss and Lichen Association website to learn more about our very own lichen and mosses of Ohio or by joining one of their forays in search of our little friends.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Andrew Hendricks I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Andrew joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 but has been in the tree care industry since 2018. He is certified in first aid, CPR, and RTE TREES, is an ISA Certified Arborist® and has his commercial applicator license. Andrew’s favorite tree is the eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). In his free time, you might be able to spot him hunting or eating his favorite food: spaghetti with zucchini noodles!
Celebrating Our Customers: You!
Michelle Burden
January 8, 2026
As we begin a new year, Russell Tree Experts would like to thank you, our loyal customers, for all you do to make our business a success! Because of your trust and continued loyalty in our services and staff members, we are now celebrating over 21 years in the tree care industry! We could not have achieved this without you!
Our team member Alex fertilizing an ash tree.
You love your trees and entrust us to ensure those trees last as long as possible by allowing Russell Tree Experts to provide plant healthcare services throughout the year. Many of you take advantage of our annual auto-renewal plan to ensure we provide the proper treatments at the proper time. This thoughtful commitment to your trees ensure they will last a long time.
We are also honored that you advocate for your trees by giving us the opportunity to prune, cable, and brace your trees as needed. Well-cared-for trees are happy trees and we love happy trees! Many of you once planted some of your trees in memory of a loved one or to mark a special moment. We take great pride in you trusting Russell Tree Experts to maintain these valued trees as they grow and quietly give back as only trees can.
Our team member Scott pruning a weeping willow tree.
Another reason we admire you is your proactiveness prior to having your work scheduled. You often notify us in advance when you prefer to have your work done or when a time conflict occurs. You also let us know when you have a bird’s nest or squirrel’s nest needing relocated prior to your scheduled date. You contact us in advance when you have to put your work on hold until a bee’s, hornet’s, or wasp’s nest has safely been removed. These considerate gestures helps our Production Manager to schedule work in a timely manner, avoids extended wait times for you, and keeps our crews safe.
While we do our best to schedule your work in the estimated time frame given, sometimes high winds, thunder, lightning, and heavy downpours can impact these time frames. Our Production Manager admires your flexibility as he adjusts the schedule to accommodate unexpected weather conditions.
Also from time to time we get urgent calls due to a tree suddenly falling and unfortunately landing on a building, home, or other structure. We appreciate your patience as priority needs such as this sometimes causes other customers to wait a bit longer than we originally anticipated.
Russell Tree Experts responding to an urgent and hazardous removal after a tree fell on the homeowner’s house during a thunderstorm in Columbus, OH.
Our crews also get called away for weeks and sometimes months at a time to assist with disaster relief like hurricanes, wildfires, ice storms, and more. The people who have suffered through these storms are so very thankful for our cleanup efforts when needed. This impacts you, our local valued customers. Your compassion and understanding as we collaborate with those affected by natural disasters throughout the country does not go unnoticed.
So many of you are very proactive upon being notified of your scheduled date. Prepping your lawn and driveway by moving vehicles, lawn furniture, and planters prior to our arrival allows our crews to complete your work efficiently and keeps your property safe. Not only that, but you are also considerate of your neighbors by informing them, when necessary, that we will be in the neighborhood.
Not only are you good neighbors and accommodate our crews by moving any items that may hinder efficient tree work, but you also often make yourselves available to be on site and even greet our crews upon arrival. Taking the time to chat with the crew upon their arrival and at the end of the job helps ensures our goal of providing the work to your complete satisfaction.
A group photo of just some of our team members!
We value your efforts to make our crews feel comfortable while they are visiting your property. Tree work can be laborious at times, and being offered a cold glass of water in 90 degree temperatures goes a long way. Our crews appreciate your willingness to maintain a safe distance from the work area to maintain everyone’s safety. They also have mentioned that many of you have provided snacks, kind words, and even occasional tips. Our crews are touched by these thoughtful acts of kindness.
As busy as so many of you are with work, family, and life in general, you considerately make time to provide glowing Google reviews and to share your experiences with your friends and family. These glowing reviews and referrals ensures our continual growth, and we are sincerely grateful.
You are valued, respected members of our community and many of you feel like family. We look forward to serving you in 2026 and beyond. Please know we are here for you 24/7 with an ISA Certified Arborist® available anytime. To speak with me or my coworker Snobilee for a free tree work quote, call us at (614) 895-7000 or request a free tree work quote online at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Michelle Burden I Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Michelle joined Russell Tree Experts in 2019. Fall is her favorite time of the year! When she is not working she enjoy spending time with family and friends.
Complimentary Christmas Tree Disposal!
What: Complimentary Christmas Tree Disposal Service by Russell Tree Experts
Where: 3427 E Dublin Granville Rd. Westerville, Ohio 43081
When: December 26, 2025 – Jan 9, 2026
Details:
For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree for free anytime at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) between Friday, December 26th 2025 and Friday, January 9th 2026. The drop-off zone will be at the front yard of our office with marked cones and signage! If you need any assistance, you can knock on our front door between 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM from 1/5/26 to 1/9/26 and one of our friendly staff members will lend a hand! We’ll ensure that your Christmas tree gets reused to become mulch or compost!
Quotes:
“We are happy to offer this service again this year to anyone who doesn’t have yard waste
removal services available… and it is always fun for us to throw a couple dozen trees through
our wood chipper!” – Kenny Greer, Marketing Director
“If you want your old Christmas tree to get reused and recycled back into the Earth, we’ll make
sure it finds a new home in the form of wood chip mulch!“ – Enrique Arayata, Media Production Manager
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Comparing Conifers of Central Ohio
By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
December 18, 2025
Every December my family bundles up and heads to our favorite local tree farm. We wander the rows of evergreens until we find the perfect tree, usually a Fraser fir (Abies fraseri) or Canaan fir (Abies balsamea var. phanerolepis) because nothing else matches that incredible citrus-pine fragrance, the soft flat needles that don’t shed the moment you look at them, and the strong limbs that will support many ornaments. The kids run ahead, my wife and I drag the sled behind us, and for that one afternoon everything smells like Christmas. Even if fir trees don’t love growing in my yard year-round, they will always be our favorite Christmas tree. There’s nothing like the smell of a real tree in the living room.
Yet, once the holidays are over and we’re thinking about evergreens that actually have to survive in Central Ohio’s hot summers, humid nights, heavy clay, and hungry deer, the choices narrow quickly. Central Ohio can be a tough transition zone for many conifers. Here’s a practical breakdown of the most commonly planted genera of evergreen trees and how they really perform in our area.
1. FIR (ABIES SPP.)
True fir trees especially Canaan fir, Fraser fir, and to a lesser extent concolor fir (Abies concolor) are the gold standard for Christmas tree farms in Ohio, and with good reason. They have soft, flat needles, excellent fragrance, and strong branches. As landscape trees however, they can be short-lived here. Most succumb to root rot, needle cast, or heat stress within 15–20 years. Canaan and concolor fir are the most adaptable and are occasionally used in yards, but even they prefer cooler, shadier microclimates.
Canaan fir (Abies balsam v. phanerolepis)
2. Spruce (Picea SPP.)
Norway spruce (Picea abies) and Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) are the two most common landscape spruce trees. Norway spruce grows fast, tolerates wet clay soil well, and can make for a decent windbreak. It can eventually reach 60–80 ft tall and often outgrows small or dense residential lots. Blue spruce, despite its stunning color, does not perform well in central Ohio as our wet springs and humid summers make them prone to rhizosphaera needle cast and cytospora canker. Most specimens planted in the 1980s and ’90s are now dead or dying. Another spruce to consider is Serbian spruce (Picea omorika). Serbian spruce trees can grow tall to a mature height of 50-60 ft, but is much narrower in width, making it more appropriate for backyards with limited space.
Norway spruce (Picea abies)
3. Pine (Pinus SPP.)
Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) grows quickly and has a soft, graceful look but is prone to white pine weevil and nutrition issues when planted in poor sites. Austrian pine (Pinus nigra) and Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris) were once the default evergreen screen, but diplodia tip blight and dothistroma needle blight have wiped out entire rows along highways and in neighborhoods since the early 2000s. I recommend avoiding these two species (Austrian and Scotch pine) when selecting pine trees for central Ohio.
Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus)
4. Hemlock (Tsuga SPP.)
Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), also known as Canadian hemlock, is a beautiful native tree with delicate needles and a graceful, drooping habit. It thrives in cool, moist ravines like Hocking Hills, but does not care for hot, open suburban lawns. Add the advancing hemlock woolly adelgid in southern Ohio, and new plantings are risky unless you’re prepared to treat them regularly.
Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis)
5. Arborvitae (Thuja SPP.)
Arborvitae remains the workhorse for privacy screens. Emerald green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’) is narrow and widely available tree, but can brown badly in winter and is a favorite of whitetail deer. Green giant arborvitae (a hybrid, often listed as Thuja ‘Green Giant’ or Thuja plicata × standishii), however, is one of the true success stories: fast growing (3–5 ft per year when young), heat and drought-tolerant once established, decent clay soil tolerance, and much better deer resistance. For a tall, reliable screen in central Ohio, Green giant arborvitae is usually my top pick.
Green giant arborvitae (Thuja plicata × standishii)
6. Juniper (Juniperus SPP.)
Older upright junipers like Hetzii juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzii’) and Hollywood juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Torulosa’ or ‘Kaizuka’) have largely been killed by Phomopsis and Kabatina blights in our wet springs. Newer cultivars like Taylor juniper (Juniperus virginiana ‘Taylor’), Spartan juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Spartan’), and grey owl juniper (Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’) are far more resistant. Once established, junipers handle drought, poor soil, and deer pressure with ease.
Taylor juniper (Juniperus virginiana ‘Taylor’)
Recommendation Summary for Central Ohio
• Tall screen: Green giant arborvitae or Norway spruce (with space)
• Medium screen: Taylor juniper or Serbian spruce (with caution)
• Best native landscape tree: Eastern white pine (with caution)
• Avoid entirely: Colorado blue spruce, Austrian pine, most true fir trees (except Canaan or concolor in cool spots), and hemlocks in full sun
In the end, there is no one perfect conifer in central Ohio. It is important to match a tree with a suitable planting site that will complement its growing needs. With that said, green giant arborvitae, disease-resistant junipers, and carefully sited natives like eastern white pine can provide decades of evergreen beauty with minimal headaches. Choose wisely, give them decent drainage, and take good care of them for the first few years, and you’ll have living privacy and winter structure that actually survives our midwest extremes.
PUT YOUR CONIFER TREE ID SKILLS TO THE TEST!
COMPLIMENTARY CHRISTMAS TREE DROPOFF (FOR RECYCLING!)
For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree for free anytime at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) between Friday, December 26th 2025 and Friday, January 9th 2026. The drop-off zone will be at the front yard of our office with marked cones and signage! If you need any assistance, you can knock on our front door between 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM from 1/5/26 to 1/9/26 and one of our friendly staff members will lend a hand! We’ll ensure that your Christmas tree gets reused to become mulch or compost!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).
Winter Reading List
By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
December 11, 2025
For me, Thanksgiving marks the end of lawn and garden work for the year. It’s time to get to work on the indoor tasks I’ve neglected all summer. It’s time to get back to the gym. It’s time to catch up on some reading.
Here are four of my favorite nature books, plus two others I’ve enjoyed recently that are only partially nature-themed.
1) The Man Who Climbs Trees (James Aldred, 2017)
Not only my favorite nature book—my favorite book, period.
In it, wildlife cameraman James Adlred recalls his travels to the world’s most untamed locations and his climbs in the the planet’s largest trees, as he pioneered techniques to film exotic animals for National Geographic and the BBC.
His concise writing style and matter-of-fact outlook keep the tempo fast and the adventures harrowing.
As another man who climbs trees, I’m profoundly jealous Mr. Aldred found a much cooler way to put our shared skill set to use!
2) Entangled Life (Merlin Sheldrake, 2020)
The science will be too science-y for some, but the facts Mr. Sheldrake presents here are fascinating! Fungi are among the most adaptable, industrious, and dare I say, intelligent? life forms on the planet. We are only beginning to scratch the surface of their capabilities and potential benefit to humanity.
Once you get pulled into this one, you’ll have trouble putting it down. You’ll also annoy your friends and family reciting all the incredible things you’ve learned!
3) The Treeline (Ben Rawlence, 2022)
As our planet continues to warm, the boreal forests of the Arctic Circle march rapidly northward. In this book, environmentalist Ben Rawlence traveled to Greenland, Canada, Alaska, Scotland, and Siberia to see these forests, meet the people they impact, and learn from the scientists studying there.
It takes a while to get moving, and the tempo is much slower than The Man Who Climbs Trees. Stick with him, though, because his concluding statement on climate change is profound!
4) The Light Eaters (Zoë Schlanger, 2024)
I listened to this on audiobook. Between the author’s fascinating content and pleasant reading, I found myself hoping for red lights.
Much like Entangled Life, this one is science-heavy but mind-blowing! While she never goes so far to suggest sentience, Ms. Schlanger makes a strong case plants can feel, hear, communicate, remember, and even plan ahead.
5) The Drunken Botanist (Amy Stewart, 2013)
Do you like plants and booze?
Me too! And we’re not alone.
In this best-seller, Ms. Stewart details how humans of all eras and all locations have been turning fruits, nuts, seeds, grains, herbs, trees, mushrooms, and just about anything else we can find into hooch. She even shares cocktail recipes and plant growing guides.
While the descriptions are entertaining and easy to digest, this book’s format reads more like a reference than a page-turner…I suspect you’ll find yourself pulling it off the shelf more than myother recommendations but will likely never read it cover-to-cover.
6) A Geography of Oysters (Rowan Jacobsen, 2007)
Rowan Jacobsen is another author I enjoy reading but am envious of! He has turned his passion for food and the places it comes from into a James Beard Award winning career.
Here, he travels the oyster-farming regions of North America, highlighting how their shape, color, and flavor are tied directly to the environment they are grown in. Yes, it’s more about food than nature, but this book’s emphasis on terroir will leave you hungry to travel our continent’s coasts and protect its waterways.
—-
So there you have it! – four of my favorite nature books and two more I enjoy that are nature-adjacent. I hope this winter finds you diving into one or more of them – ideally with a cocktail or plate of bivalves at your side!
COMPLIMENTARY CHRISTMAS TREE DROPOFF (FOR RECYCLING!)
For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree for free anytime at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) between Friday, December 26th 2025 and Friday, January 9th 2026. The drop-off zone will be at the front yard of our office with marked cones and signage! If you need any assistance, you can knock on our front door between 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM from 1/5/26 to 1/9/26 and one of our friendly staff members will lend a hand! We’ll ensure that your Christmas tree gets reused to become mulch or compost!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020. With past experiences ranging from a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities, he has accrued more than 20 years in the green industry. Mitch is a graduate of the Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, Mitch plays guitar and banjo poorly.
Make Your Yard POP in the Fall: 10 Trees to Add Fall Color to Your Landscape!
By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
October 23, 2025
Autumn is upon us! And one of the joys of the season is admiring a vast array of fall foliage. If you are considering adding trees to your landscape, you may be wondering which trees provide the best fall color. Look no further! The list below includes my top 10 picks for trees of various sizes known for their outstanding fall foliage.
Smooth Sumac
Smooth sumac is often overlooked when it comes to landscape plants, but it delivers some of the most vibrant early fall color out of any smaller sized tree. Smooth sumac also has the benefit of being well adapted to a wide array of soils making it a relatively low-maintenance tree. It’s also accompanied by scarlet red berry clusters that if left unharvested will persist after leaf drop extending its landscape value into winter.
Scientific Name: Rhus glabra
Mature Height: 10 to 15 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Orange to scarlet or crimson red
2. Washington Hawthorn
Making a reappearance off our article, 10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!, the Washington hawthorn also provides excellent fall foliage as the dark green leaves turn to various shades of orange and red. Similar to the Smooth sumac, the red berries endure after leaf drop and provide tasty snacks for song birds trying to make it through winter. If the thorny branches do not deter you, then this small to medium sized tree is a great year-round choice.
Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum
Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun
Fall Color: Oranges and reds
3. Black Tupelo (or Black Gum)
Black tupelo, or black gum as some call it, is one of the most striking native trees for fall color. Its glossy green summer leaves turn into a fiery mix of yellow, orange, scarlet, and maroon. Black tupelos are medium-sized trees with a pyramidal shape when young that become more round with age and prefer moist, acidic soils. Their brilliant color, wildlife value, and tolerance of wet or compacted soils make it a fantastic specimen forboth residential and natural landscapes alike.
Scientific Name: Nyssa sylvatica
Mature Height: 30 to 50 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Variety of oranges and reds
4. American Persimmon
Persimmon trees are known for their sweet fruit that ripen in late fall just in time to make their way into pies, cakes, cookies, and sorbets. But that is not the only thing they bring to the table in fall. They also provide excellent yellow to orange fall color for a medium sized tree. Persimmons can be a bit slow growing, certainly taking their time to mature to “fruit-ion”, but those willing to wait will soon find themselves the family favorite come Thanksgiving.
Scientific Name: Diospyros virginiana
Mature Height: 30 to 55 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Yellow to orange
5. Sassafras
This fun to say tree is a welcome addition to any landscape, easily identifiable by its unusually shaped leaves smelling of root beer in the spring and of citrus in the fall. These leaves can be oval, mitten-shaped, or lobed but come fall they will burst into brilliant combinations of yellow, orange, and red. The bark on sassafras is also known for its aromatic scent of cinnamon, citrus, and vanilla. This medium sized, drought tolerant fall spectacle of a tree is a perfect fit for homeowners who want to “spice up” their landscape.
Scientific name: Sassafras albidum (most common)
Mature Height: 30 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 35 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Varies from yellow to deep reddish purple
6. River Birch
River birch is often planted for its ability to thrive in less-than-ideal drainage situations and for its unique bark texture that brings strong visual appeal year-round to the landscape. The beautiful golden yellow fall leaves are but another reason to add to the long list of reasons to consider adding a river birch to your landscape. However, some soils may prove difficult for river birch to access all of the nutrients it needs. Thankfully this can be remedied easily and here’s an article by another one of our arborists on this topic, Iron and Manganese Deficiency.
Scientific Name: Betula nigra
Mature Height: 40 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 25 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Golden yellow
7. Ginkgo
Dating all the way back to the mid-Jurassic period, Ginkgo trees are some of the oldest and toughest trees around. Little known fact, four ginkgo trees survived the bombing of Hiroshima and are still around to this day. If this tree can survive the unfortunate circumstances of an atomic bomb, then this tree will do just fine in your heavily urban landscape. On top of this tree’s incredible resilience, it also boasts spectacularly bright yellow fall foliage that is sure to amaze. Just be sure when you are selecting this tree that you get a male ginkgo as the females produce fruit with a rather unpleasant odor.
Scientific Name: Ginkgo biloba
Mature Height: 40 to 70 feet
Mature Width: 30 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow
8. American Beech
Some may be surprised to see me recommend an American beech tree in light of my previous article, Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches, but any list of trees talking about fall color would be remiss without its inclusion. The silvery smooth bark of the American Beech is complimented by golden amber fall leaves that hold on long into winter after most other trees have long since gone bare. It is slow growing, but sure to impress for a long time.
Scientific Name: Fagus grandifolia
Mature Height: 50 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 40 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: full sun to partial sun
Fall Color: Bronze to copper
9. Red Oak
As the name would imply, red oaks provide a tower of brick red leaves that can easily command over a large landscape. Their ability to grow quickly while juvenile and thrive in our native soils makes the mighty red oak a staple for new planters looking for a cornerstone piece in a larger more natural landscape. However, in the compacted soils and confined spaces of our more urban areas, the red oak can face challenges that limit its growth and diminish the vibrant color it is known for.
Scientific Name: Quercus rubra
Mature Height: 60 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 60 to 80 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Dark reddish brown
10. Shagbark Hickory
Truthfully all members of the hickory family are going to give you an outstanding yellow fall foliage and deserve a place on this list, but I chose to highlight the shagbark hickory for the additional appeal of its iconic peeling bark. Hickory trees are incredibly durable and long-lived trees that also require minimal care once established. If you are looking for a unique, low-maintenance tree that will provide excellent shade, beautifully vibrant yellow fall foliage, and habitat for wildlife for tens of generations, then look no further.
Scientific Name: Carya ovata
Mature Height: 70 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 50 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow
And that’s my list! Whether you’re looking for bold reds, glowing golds, or a striking mix of fall hues, these 10 trees offer some of the best autumn color nature has to offer. And here at Russell Tree Experts we offer various tree care services to keep your landscape display breathtaking for years to come, such as deep root irrigation, fertilization, insect and disease management, tree pruning, and much more! For a free tree work quote on how to elevate your landscape by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000. Happy planting!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!
Fall Fertilization: A Boost For Tree Health and Growth!
By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
October 9, 2025
As the leaves turn vibrant shades of orange and red and the air grows crisp, fall signals a time of transition for trees. While many of us associate fertilization with spring, fertilizing trees in the fall offers unique and powerful benefits that can set your trees up for success. By giving your trees a nutrient boost as the growing season winds down, you’re helping them thrive through winter and into the next year. Additionally, combining fall fertilization with spring fertilization can amplify these benefits, helping to ensure your trees remain healthy, strong, and beautiful year-round.
At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.
Why Fall Fertilization Matters
In the fall, trees shift their energy from producing leaves and growing branches to strengthening their root systems and preparing for dormancy. This is a critical time for trees, as they store nutrients to survive the cold months ahead. Fertilizing in the fall provides the essential nutrients trees need to bolster their roots, improve resilience, and prepare for a robust start in spring.
One method of fall fertilization is through the use of an irrigation lance to deliver nutrients below ground, closer to a tree’s roots.
One of the biggest benefits of fall fertilization is root development. During autumn, trees focus on growing their roots, which anchor them and absorb water and nutrients. By applying fertilizer in the fall, you give trees the building blocks they need to expand and strengthen their root systems. Stronger roots mean trees are better equipped to handle drought, storms, and other environmental stresses.
Fall fertilization also helps trees store nutrients for winter. As trees enter dormancy, they rely on stored energy to survive until spring. Fertilizer provides a nutrient reserve that trees can draw upon during this period, to help them emerge from winter in a healthy condition. This nutrient boost supports overall tree health, leading to better resistance against pests, diseases, and harsh winter conditions.
Another advantage of fall fertilization is improved bud and flower formation. The nutrients provided in the fall contribute to the development of next season’s buds, which means healthier blooms and foliage when spring arrives. Trees that are well-nourished in the fall often produce healthier flowers and lusher leaves, enhancing your landscape.
The Power of Combining Fall and Spring Fertilization
While fall fertilization lays a strong foundation for tree health, pairing it with spring fertilization creates a dynamic duo for year-round vitality. Spring is a time of rapid growth, as trees produce new leaves, flowers, and branches. Fertilizing in the spring provides an immediate supply of nutrients to fuel this growth. It supports vigorous shoot development, leading to fuller canopies and stronger branches. Spring fertilization also enhances photosynthesis, helping trees produce the energy they need to grow and thrive.
When you fertilize in both seasons, you’re giving your trees a balanced nutrient plan. Fall fertilization builds the root system and prepares trees for winter, while spring fertilization supports above-ground growth and energy production. Together, they help your trees have the resources they need at every stage of their growth cycle. This combination promotes long-term health, making trees more resilient to environmental challenges and helping them live longer, more productive lives.
In summary, fall fertilization is a simple and effective way to support your trees’ health, strengthening their roots and preparing them for winter. By taking the time, this fall to nourish your trees, you’ll help them thrive for seasons to come. For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).
Why Do Leaves Change Color?
How and what does a tree eat? Why do leaves change colors in the fall? Why do trees drop their leaves?
Trees, just like humans, need nutrients, oxygen, water, and the sun to thrive. Also, adaptations for surviving our climates have occurred in both trees and humans, but ours are less showy in the fall.
Let's start with the first question: how and what does a tree eat?
When we eat carbohydrates, our bodies produce glucose, aka sugar, which we either use instantly or store for later. Similarly, trees also utilize carbohydrates in their growth, but instead of eating a sandwich, they use water from their leaves and roots, carbon dioxide (CO2) from the environment, and energy from their leaves through a process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis uses the leaves’ stored chlorophyll, which produces? … You guessed it, carbohydrates! Science note: Chlorophyll is also why leaves appear green… more on that shortly!
So, how does this tie into the next question: Why do leaves change colors in the fall?
Well, simply put, the sun is to blame for the fall colors we get to enjoy. Because the sun is getting further away from our hemisphere, the days become shorter, and the temperatures start to drop. This causes the tree’s adaptation to enter the chat. Remember the tree needs water, sunlight, and CO2 to make its food (glucose), and what is beginning to decrease? … That's right, the amount of sunlight the stored chlorophyll can use to make energy with.
For the tree to survive the coming months of less water absorption from frozen soil, no rain, and reduced sunlight, the tree must dramatically reduce its energy needs. The cooler weather and shorter days trigger the trees to stop producing and start reclaiming the existing chlorophyll nutrients.
Remember the science note from earlier? This reduction and reclaiming of the existing chlorophyll cause the leaves to change colors. Chlorophyll absorbs red and blue light, causing most of us to see leaves as green. As the level of chlorophyll continues to decrease, we get to see the other colors in the spectrum. Remember ROY-G-BIV? Once green gets out of there, the fall show can really start.
My friend Kim Frye is an environmental scientist, and while I was chatting with her about this article, she shared a fun detail about leaf pigments: "[trees produce] xanthophyll (yellow orange) and anthocyanins (red purple blue), and they also help all year long when the light changes in the mornings and at nightfall. Those wavelengths become more predominant as we head into fall and maximize photosynthesis beyond the wavelengths chlorophyll uses."
Now onto the last question: Why do trees drop their leaves?
Ginkgo tree leaves (Ginkgo biloba)
Once the tree has reclaimed all the available chlorophyll stored in its leaves, an important step in the tree’s survival happens: it drops its leaves. It does this for a few reasons, but the main one is to reduce energy needs and conserve as much water and stored energy as it can. This increases its survival during the winter months when it can't produce energy from the sun and absorb water through the frozen ground. This also ensures the tree has enough energy come springtime to grow and produce new leaves to begin the photosynthesis cycle again. I bet that it is a re-leaf to trees each spring!
Think of the complex and inspiring work all of the colors mean as the leaves put on their show, the next time you are enjoying leaves. Whether that is in the spring when everything is green and energetic, or in the fall with the beautiful multi-colored show ushering in a restful period for plants.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Laura Howell | Human Resources Generalist, Russell Tree Experts
Laura joined Russell Tree Experts in January 2025. She supports our staff through her role in the HR department. Laura is an alum from Franklin University and CSCC with degrees in forensic accounting and finance. Outside of work she enjoys traveling, gardening, and camping.
Stressful Situations
By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
September 11, 2025
We're not so different, humans and trees. We're both born with tools to keep ourselves upright and thriving. We are impacted by many of the same stressors and overcome them in similar ways. But because the majority of you reading this are people, not plants, human responses to stress may seem obvious, while tree responses are a mystery.
Let's close this gap in understanding by focusing on common tree stressors, what they look like, and how to manage them in human terms. To maintain a light degree of stress, I'll even include a quiz at the end (not a joke - read closely!).
2 diagrams will be critical to keep in mind as you read - the disease triangle and the integrated pest management pyramid.
The disease triangle shows disease is only possible when a pathogen, a susceptible host, and a favorable environment are all present. If any of those is lacking, disease cannot happen.
The integrated pest management control pyramid shows the most responsible and long-term solution to pest prevention is proper culture. This means native trees planted in appropriate locations, soils rich in microorganisms, and gardens promoting pollinators and predators. In this model, chemicals are the least-used option.
Our team member Scott making a tree pruning cut!
Pruning
Luckily, the days of bloodletting as medicine are long gone. Today, we would never cut our calf to cure influenza or apply leaches to arthritic joints. Yet, that's still how we treat our trees. Aside from a few specific fungal situations and removing co-dominant leads from young trees, pruning stressed trees makes the situation worse. As with the human body, wounds should be kept as minimal and as small as possible.
Nutrient Deficiency/Toxicity
When we're hungry, we eat. Trees do, too -- an unobstructed root system and full canopy can provide a tree all it needs to succeed.
We know what starvation looks like in humans and understand the problems caused by lack of specific nutrients (decreased immune system from lack of vitamin C, fatigue and pale skin from iron deficiency, etc.), but we don't think of tree nutrition in the same way.
An example of chlorosis in a tree, likely due to an iron or manganese deficiency
In trees, nutrient deficiencies can be indicated by small, misshapen, and/or discolored leaves. A hungry tree may look wilted, or droop. It may begin to produce branches on the trunk because it no longer has the energy to pump water to existing leaves. Like us, trees can be otherwise healthy, but suffer because of a single lacking nutrient (yellow leaves due to manganese deficiency, for example).
While organic fertilizers like the ones we apply at Russell Tree Experts are nearly impossible to over-apply, excess petroleum-based fertilizers can be as deadly to trees as excess donuts to humans. Over-fertilized trees may develop bark cracks or poor structure from rapid expansion. More critically, they may outpace the natural microorganisms in the air and soil around them, leaving them reliant on humans to provide necessary food.
The point of all this is trees and humans both require a diverse diet, and are typically able to achieve it with natural feeding. Supplementation to fulfill those dietary needs is only needed if there's a specific deficiency. Fertilizing a tree stressed from drought is no more helpful than giving a sandwich to a man who's been burned.
An example of how a leaf can curl and droop due to drought stress
Heat/Drought Stress
We all know the misery of standing in the sun on a hot day. Unlike us, though, trees can't sweat or jump in a pool. Instead, they close their stomata (the pores on their leaves) to help preserve water, and shed leaves to decrease the surface area the sun can dry out.
Heat and drought stressed trees often look wilted, with dry, brown, curled leaves falling in summer. The takeaway? If you're in heat, a dose a cough syrup won't make you less hot, but drinking plenty of water will allow you to sweat and cool naturally. Similarly, it's common for trees to look unhealthy in summer, but the only solutions are cooler temperatures and more water - pruning or fertilizer only make things worse.
Pathogens
Like most illnesses in humans, most tree infections are short-lived and controlled by the tree itself. We rely on beneficial fungi, bacteria, and viruses in our guts. But trees create symbiotic (helpful for both) relationships with microorganisms in the air, water, and soil. If a disease gets past a tree's microorganism army, the tree can block its own vascular system to isolate the pathogen in place.
A Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) affected by rhizosphaera needle cast.
Also like us, healthy living prevents tree disease and shortens recovery. This means mulching the root zone, watering during drought, and yes, even applying fertilizer and pruning out diseased branches.
The signs and symptoms of tree pathogens vary broadly. Cherry black knot and cedar-hawthorn rust develop fruiting bodies on branch tips and fruits. Crabapple scab causes premature leaf drop, while rhizosphaera needlecast causes permanent needle loss in spruces. All are host-specific - they cannot pass from one type of tree to another.
In both humans and plants, some pathogens require additional action. As with drugs in humans, fungicides should only be used on plants in specifics dosages and intervals, and should only be used as needed to prevent resistance.
QUIZ TIME!
We’ve made it to the end of this article, which means quiz time! Time to put your newfound knowledge to the test! Tip: It is an open-note quiz. If you take and submit the quiz with a passing grade (3 or more correct answers), you’ll be entered in to win a free RTE gift bag. Shipping and handling free for those in the 48 contiguous United States. Winner will be drawn on Thursday, September 18th. You may retake the quiz if you only scored 1 or 2 correct answers in your first attempt! As always, thank you for taking the time to read our articles. For a free tree work quote by 1 of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
Take the quiz HERE.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!
Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches
By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
September 4, 2025
If you’ve got a beautiful beech (Fagus) tree in your yard or your property backs up to one of central Ohio’s native woodlands, then you’ve likely noticed just how special these trees are. Their smooth gray bark, golden amber fall foliage, and nut production for local wildlife make them a favorite in both natural and landscaped settings. But in recent years, a troubling new disease has been silently making its way through Ohio’s forests, beech leaf disease (BLD).
Beech tree leaves infected by beech leaf disease.
First spotted in northeastern Ohio in 2012, BLD has quickly spread across the eastern U.S. and into parts of Canada. It’s been linked to a microscopic worm, called a nematode, that attacks beech leaves and buds. Beech leaf disease is easily recognizable by its distinctive dark green bands between the leaf veins. In the fall, the affected leaf bands can appear yellow. As the infection worsens, the leaves thicken and take on a leathery feel and may begin to curl while the nematodes spread to new leaf buds. This damage prevents the leaves from photosynthesizing properly. Repeated damage can kill young beech trees in 2 to 5 years. Larger, more mature beech trees seem to be able to hold out longer, but are still affected. Some have shown to begin losing branches from the bottom of the canopy and work upwards year over year.
Another example of beech leaves affected by BLD.
Fortunately for Franklin County and our surrounding neighbors, no infected beech trees have been observed so far. However, Delaware and Licking county residents should be on high alert because Morrow, Coshocton, and Muskingum counties are all actively dealing with BLD moving through their forests and landscapes, and it’s not showing any signs of slowing down. Thankfully, Ohio State University plant pathology professor Enrico Bonello, and assistant professor Kayla Perry are hard at work developing better diagnostic tools and treatment plans to better identify and counteract beech leaf disease. Specifically, Benello has come up with ways to identify infected but not yet symptomatic beech trees, and Perry has promising research suggesting that nematicides and potassium fertilizers can at least slow the progression, if not cure the tree. Further research is still needed, and rest assured, we at Russell Tree Experts are following them closely as the knife that is BLD plunges ever deeper towards the heart of Ohio. As a resident of Central Ohio, especially those of you in Delaware and Licking counties, you can help by taking a look the next time you see a beech tree and reporting any sightings of beech leaf disease to your local OSU extension.
American beech trees (Fagus grandifolia) transitioning into beautiful, fall color!
If you’ve ever enjoyed the shade of a beech tree, admired its golden amber leaves in the fall, or watched birds and squirrels dart through its branches, you already know how much these trees contribute to life in central Ohio. BLD is a serious threat. By staying informed, taking care of the trees we have, and supporting ongoing research, we can protect these iconic trees for future generations. Even if you don’t have a beech tree in your own yard, you’ve probably passed by one in your neighborhood, a nearby metro park, along a bike trail, or at a local school. Now’s the time to look up, take notice, and lend a hand (or a rake) in the fight against beech leaf disease. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!
Set in Stone: A Letter of Gratitude, Farewell, and Exciting New Worlds
By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
August 21, 2025
It’s not everyday that life-changing experiences come along that alter the trajectory of your career. It’s also not everyday that you find a supportive and inspiring employer like Joe Russell and Russell Tree Experts, that encourages you to pursue what drives you. I’ve had the good fortune of both.
I met Joe Russell in 2004 when we worked together briefly at another tree care company. The very next year, Russell Tree Experts opened for business. I began working there in 2011, took a small break from the profession after going back to school and pursuing a different field of work, and ultimately made my way back in 2019. Fast forward to 2022, and as the world is finding its way back to some level of normalcy after the pandemic, a series of events and chance encounters led to an opportunity to work abroad as a gardener and arborist in Japan. I remember how much thought I gave to this, the weight of that decision, not sure what the right decision even was. When I finally brought it up to Joe, I think he was almost more excited and sure of it than I was. Never one to miss an opportunity to lift up others around him, he said, “You gotta do it!”
The time I spent living and working as a gardener in Japan, to put it simply, had a more profound impact on my life than perhaps anything else ever has. In my work, I was able to approach new methods of pruning and garden care with a beginner’s mind while simultaneously applying over two decades of work experience. And being fully submersed in a different culture on the other side of the world was in itself an amazing experience. Having that opportunity arise in mid-life, with a few more years of life’s wisdom under my belt, made for a different experience than it would have been in my 20s, an age when people typically have the chance to pursue a travel-abroad adventure just after college. While others would probably fill their free time in Japan with Tokyo’s night-life and taking in all of the amazing food the culture has to offer, I spent mine visiting gardens. Dozens and dozens of gardens. In the last 3 months of my time there, I moved to Kyoto, the once-capital of and historic epicenter of the country, and pursued a self-study intensive of over 100 gardens throughout the city and surrounding countryside. I knew before leaving that I wanted to share what I learned and saw with others when I returned to Ohio. And, as if having the support of Joe Russell to leave and pursue a dream in the first place wasn’t amazing enough, I had a job waiting for me at Russell Tree Experts when I returned. However, as I settled back into everyday life in Ohio, a flame that had been lit inside me from my time abroad refused to go out. In fact, it grew with each passing day.
Iwakura Japanese Gardens began as a side-venture landscape business, born from that flame. I found a sense of peace and stillness in my soul while working in and visiting so many sacred spaces in Japan, and that felt like something worth sharing. The pursuit of an offering so niche as designing and building Japanese gardens, in Central Ohio of all places, may sound like a fruitless undertaking. But a “build it and they will come” approach has so far been met with a positive reception. From business locations to private residences, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the number of individuals that express a real interest in having the Japanese garden aesthetic, or parts of it, in their landscapes. Enough so that it now makes sense to pursue it full-time.
Iwakura (e-wa-ku-ra) Japanese Gardens specializes in the design and build of Japanese-style gardens and landscape features. With a focus on minimalism, elements like stone, wood, water, and select plants are used to create spaces that mimic scenes and experiences of the natural world. Empty spaces in the garden are just as important as the physical elements themselves, allowing the eyes to “rest” between elements as the garden is viewed. Like the feeling we get when we declutter a living space, a Japanese garden has strong elements, but fewer of them and only what’s essential, creating a space around you that calms and quiets the mind. For those that do not explicitly want a Japanese-style garden, many of the design elements can still be incorporated into a more traditional midwest landscape to create outdoor spaces that work with the home’s architecture and use-requirements for the space. Larger stones can be incorporated into bed spaces as a strong, anchoring element. Groundcovers and stone borders can take the place of, or reduce, the need for typical edging and mulching practices. A small water feature placed next to a patio or screened porch in the backyard can bring the peaceful sound of water and a touch of the Japanese aesthetic to the landscape. Japanese gardens work wonderfully in the biggest and smallest of spaces alike.
I’ve had the pleasure of working directly with many of you who are reading this article. A few of you even expressed words of encouragement when I informed you that I was leaving and going to Japan. For that, I thank you. My role at Russell Tree Experts may be coming to an end, but I look forward to working with them in a different capacity, and I’m grateful to be able to refer my friends, family, and landscape clients to such a trusted and respected tree care company when the need arises. Ironically, my bittersweet departure from Russell Tree Experts reminds me that nothing is set in stone, even as the gardens and landscapes that I now create are quite literally set in and designed with stone as a primary aesthetic.
I hope you will continue to place your trust in Russell Tree Experts, benefit from the educational articles they write, and support the health and preservation of trees and beautiful outdoor spaces!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.
The Impact of SO MUCH Water on Trees!
By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
August 1, 2025
Happy Friday, August 1st! Here are 3 quick thoughts I’d like to share this morning:
1. SO MUCH RAIN!
This is the wettest growing season I can recall to date in my professional career as an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. Normally by this point in the year, I’m watering different parts of my garden daily and have set up the sprinkler on my lawn at least a few times. I have done neither of those things thus far and even found myself moving some of my container grown trees this past weekend onto the porch because they were being over-watered by mother nature and starting to show signs of stress. Despite the beautiful green lawns and lush new growth in our trees and shrubs, the high volume of rain mixed with cool overnight temperatures have resulted in some of the most prolific foliar fungal disease symptoms I have observed to date. Anthracnose, a common foliar fungal disease of oak, maple, ash and sycamore has run rampant through central Ohio and I’m even noticing it in native forest grown trees. Applescab, black spot and rust diseases on foliage have also been unusually bad. Even some trees that have been preventatively treated in the spring are developing symptoms due to the longer than normal “spring-like” wet season we’re experiencing. The good news is that most of the foliar fungal pathogens we deal with are aesthetic in their damage, often just causing leaf distortion, brown spots on the leaf surface or partial defoliation, and have little impact on the overall long-term health of the tree. Some of these diseases can be easily managed so give us a call if we can help!
An example of anthracnose
2. The Dryness is (Likely) Coming
Despite the excessive moisture we’ve had throughout the summer so far, we’re at the beginning of what has historically been the driest part of the growing season in central Ohio. August and September are the two months that I see the highest mortality of newly planted trees and shrubs due to drought stress. The drought of last August and September 2024 was historic and for the first time, I observed established trees that had been planted correctly and in the ground for over a decade dry up and die. Generally, healthy and established trees that have been in the ground for over 5 years do not require supplemental water to get them through the growing season. When we have stretches of 6 to 8 weeks without rainfall, even your established trees need help. Do not let yourself be fooled by how wet the season has been thus far. When conditions change this month, be sure to have your watering wands (and buckets) out and ready. Remember that delivering water to trees and shrubs slowly and deeply is the key and that in most cases, irrigation systems and sprinklers, although great for lawns and flower beds, will not reach the depths required to sufficiently hydrate tree roots. Last year, Russell Tree Experts began offering a new service called deep root irrigation (DRI). DRI uses a lance to inject water deep into the root system of trees and shrubs. This method helps bypass the roots of turf, weeds, or ground cover and delivers water directly to the tree roots while also reducing water lost to runoff or evaporation like you might experience if applying water at the surface level. We saved many newly planted trees and woody landscapes with this service through the end of last summer/early fall and kept a lot of newly planted trees hydrated while their owners were on vacation. Let us know if we can help you with your tree watering needs!
3. Meet New Team Members!
Lastly (but not leastly), I’d like to introduce the two newest members of our management team, Andrew Hendricks and Alex Miller. Both of these gentlemen are ISA Certified Arborists®, have a long history of excellence at Russell Tree Experts and have likely been in your yard already to prune a tree or treat for a disease/insect problem. Andrew joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been working in the green industry for over a decade. He holds degrees in forestry and wildlife management and is an avid gardner and outdoorsman. Alex has a strong background in the nursery industry and has been working to keep your trees maintained and healthy at Russell Tree Experts since 2021. These guys are dedicated to the long term care of trees and to making the world a better place. We’re fortunate to have them on staff! They’ll be out and about regularly performing consultations and estimate requests so don’t be shy if you see them in your yard. You’ll be in great hands. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.
5 Tree Watering Methods Ranked Worst to Best!
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
July 24, 2025
WHY WATER A TREE?
Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best!
HOW TO WATER A TREE?
OPTION 1
LAWN SPRINKLER
Watering a tree with a sprinkler or hose is one method of tree watering, however, it is typically inefficient for trees and woody plants. A tree takes in water through its roots, and it is common to see sprinklers and hose operators spray water on the tree’s trunk and leaves. Not only is this an inefficient use of water, but it can lead to leaf scorch if watering is done during a bright and sunny day. A slightly more effective method would be to point the water towards the tree roots, but another issue to be cautious of is water running off and ending up elsewhere such as nearby grass, plants, concrete, or towards a sewer drain. Over time, this can also contribute to erosion through soil displacement. This can be minimized by installing a tree mulch ring with a subtle berm around the perimeter so that the mulch can retain as much water for the tree as possible. Out of the 5 tree watering methods discussed here, this would be my last option, but it is better than nothing and is a good alternative to not watering at all.
Overall Rating: ★☆☆☆☆
OPTION 2
Water BUCKET
A second way to water a tree would be to grab a bucket, fill it with water, and then dump it over the tree’s root zone. This will do a better job at targeting the tree’s roots for proper water absorption and minimize any risk of leaf scorch by keeping the leaves dry, but water runoff can still be a concern, especially if you dump the water all at once. To minimize this, the bucket of water can be slowly distributed in a circle around the tree anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away from the trunk. A disadvantage to this approach is that too much water at one time can lead to runoff.
Overall Rating: ★★☆☆☆
Option 3
WATERING CAN/GARDEN HOSE
Another tree watering method would be to slowly water the tree using a watering can or a garden hose on a slower, softer setting. Avoiding the trunk and canopy of the tree will eliminate the risk of leaf scorch and reduce the rate of evaporation. Watering at a slower, longer duration will help water infiltrate deeper into the root system and encourage more outward root growth. If using a watering can, I recommend watering 1-2 inches away from the surface and in a circle around the canopy drip line to minimize water runoff.
Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆
OPTION 4
IRRIGATION LANCE
Next up, is watering a tree with an irrigation lance! Deep root irrigation (DRI) involves the use of an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water a few inches below ground level, directly targeting the root zone of the tree. Benefits of this watering method are that it minimizes water absorption by aboveground, competing plants, and eliminates any water runoff. Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.
Deep root irrigation is a service that Russell Tree Experts offers to customers, but an irrigation lance can also be purchased at a home-and-garden store that can connect to your garden hose at home. One detail to consider is that the water from your garden hose may not come out at a high enough psi to break up some compacted soil, but you would still be achieving the goal of watering your trees! One benefit of having Russell Tree Experts water your trees is that we can access trees hard to reach by garden hose (if they are far away from the hose bib) and also water your trees if you are not home, such as on vacation!
Overall Rating: ★★★★☆
More on deep root irrigation!
OPTION 5
DRIP IRRIGATION
And lastly, one of the most effective and efficient methods of watering a tree is through drip irrigation. This is the process of applying water slowly over an extended period of time. Drip irrigation is very similar to method 3 (with the watering can/garden hose), but the difference is that you slow it down significantly and water over the course of an hour, or even longer depending on the size of the tree. This heavily reduces the potential for water runoff, soil/mulch erosion, and water evaporation. Due to the slower release, the tree will take in water for longer compared to a quick, few minutes of hose spraying. Less water can be used as a higher percentage of water will be targeted towards the tree and not stolen by nearby grass and plants or evaporated by the sun.
The most expensive way to perform drip irrigation is to install an underground irrigation system with aboveground drippers poking out near the tree’s root system. A cheaper alternative is to use a garden hose nozzle with a locking system, on a low output setting like mist or soaker, to water your tree! Just don’t forget to pick it up once you’re done! Another solution is to use a bucket of water and poke 2 to 3 tiny holes at the bottom so that the water will slowly release. Be cautious as the holes can be clogged up by debris and, depending on the size of your bucket and tree, you may need to refill the bucket more than once. Lastly, another form of drip irrigation is using a tree watering bag. Garden centers typically sell 20-gallon tree watering bags that can be quickly filled but slowly released. Similar to the bucket, the holes can also get clogged up by debris and will need to be inspected periodically.
Overall Rating: ★★★★★
Drip irrigation in action!
HOW MUCH WATER FOR A TREE?
Now that you have learned about the worst and best ways to water a tree, you may be asking yourself “how much should I water my tree?” Well... it depends! The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) does not have set guidelines, and neither does Russell Tree Experts. A general rule of thumb is somewhere around 5 to 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (dbh). Various factors can affect the exact volume such as water runoff, evaporation rate depending on if it’s sunny or hot versus cold and cloudy, competition from nearby grass and plants, level of tree establishment, amount of precipitation during the week, and your patience and commitment to watering. For instance, a newly installed 2-inch dbh tree in the summer at full sun may need 20 gallons of water while an established, more mature 10-inch dbh tree on a cloudy, fall day may only need 50 gallons of water.
WHEN TO WATER A TREE?
The best time of day to water a tree is during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures are generally cooler, and the sun is less prevalent, leading to reduced evaporation and leaf scorch. Wet leaves overnight have a risk of fungal and disease issues while wet leaves in the middle of a sunny day have a risk of leaf scorch.
In terms of frequency... it depends! A newly planted container tree will benefit from watering every 2 to 3 days and a newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree once per week for at least the first 2 to 3 growing seasons (spring through fall). A large, mature tree may not need to be watered except in periods of extended drought and can water itself through its large root system or natural rain. During sunny, summer weather, all trees can benefit from tree watering every few days. During colder, winter weather after first frost, trees may not need to be watered at all except in fringe cases such as planting an evergreen tree late in the fall. If you want the broadest rule of thumb that comes with many exceptions and caveats, water your tree 3 to 4 times per week in the summer, 2 to 3 times per week in the fall and spring, and 0 times per week during most winters, adjusting this based on the tree’s root establishment, weekly temperature, and level of precipitation during a given week.
WHERE TO WATER A TREE?
The answer to this question does NOT depend! The best location to water a tree is in a circle around the tree between the trunk and canopy drip line. The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. In other words, if you look straight up and do not see any leaves, you are past the canopy drip line. There is a common misconception to water a tree right next to the trunk a few inches away. Although this is not a bad location, a tree can take in water from even further away and water should be as uniformly distributed as possible to promote healthy and outward root growth!
The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day.
CONCLUSION
And there you have it, the essentials of what you need to know about watering a tree! The only other tip I recommend is to install a 2- to 4-inch-deep tree mulch ring around the tree to help conserve water for the tree. A tree mulch ring has a plethora of other benefits such as increased nutrient availability, better temperature regulation, decreasing the risk of stem-girdling roots, outcompeting with other plants, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and increased visual aesthetics! Just be cautious of piling mulch near the root flare/base of the tree! The mulch ring should be level, and the root flare should be exposed. As my friend and coworker TJ Nagel, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®, once said, “watering is the single most importance maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.” For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, including deep root irrigation, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
3 Tree Tips From an RTE Insider!
By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
July 17, 2025
I'm fortunate to have a partner that loves trees as much as I do. When I met Annette working in the nursery industry twenty-ish years ago I just thought she was cute, she made me laugh and I admired the way she helped people and animals. Over the years, Annette and I have worked together in various gardens, we have spoken together at gardening events, cared for the same clients and we have both become professional arborists. We share a passion for the outdoors, seeing new trees in new places and collecting new plants for our garden when we discover them. In short, she gets me.
Through her gardening and consulting business, Annette has always proudly promoted responsible tree care and the work that Russell Tree Experts performs. When an opportunity came up this Spring to hire a seasonal Tree Wellness technician, I (somewhat jokingly) suggested that she apply and see things from the other side. She got the position and we got to work together once again! Over the last four months our dinner chats and evening conversations have been filled with observations, debate and education. Listening to her learn the industry was nostalgic and reminded me of why I got into the tree care industry. Annette is back to running her own business again but she will always be a part of Russell Tree Experts. Here are a few things she wanted every client to know - written in her own words.
1. Mulch Madness!
Don't smother your plants. In no less than 90% of the yards I visited, mulch was overdone—especially around the base of trees and shrubs. While mulch has its benefits, piling it too high can actually harm your plants.
Here's why: the root flare—the area where the trunk meets the roots—needs air and water to function properly. When mulch is too thick or pressed against the base, roots may grow upward into the mulch in search of oxygen and moisture. This can prevent them from accessing nutrients in the soil, leading to common problems like chlorosis (yellowing leaves), less vigor. Please don't forget this is important
with shrubs as well.
A visual tip: If a tree looks like a telephone pole going into the ground, it's a sign the root flare is buried—and that's worth checking.
An example of a mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed root flare.
2. Not All Fertilizers Are Created Equal
One thing that stood out to me was the quality of the fertilizer used by RTE. Unlike synthetic fertilizers that are heavy in quick-release nitrogen (which can cause fast, weak growth that attracts pests), RTE uses their own naturally composted blend. This organic fertilizer acts more like a soil conditioner—enriching the soil with beneficial microbes, improving its structure, and helping roots absorb nutrients more efficiently. It's a smarter, long-term approach to plant health.
An irrigation lance used to fertilize trees below ground level.
3. A Culture That Cares (About Plants and People)
Even after moving on from the role, I still think about how impressed I am with RTE's company culture. From top leadership and gifted mechanics to the crews in the field, the commitment to doing things right was clear.
Each week, the team holds mandatory "tailgate meetings" focused on safety, plant science, the latest climbing techniques and equipment care—something I haven't seen elsewhere in my 35 years of working in horticulture. I'm not in the habit of suggesting to someone to switch companies if they are already happy with the relationship they have with their current tree company, but my third tip is that I am even more confident referring RTE after working on the inside to homeowners or someone who wants a cool career in tree work than I already was as an observer. It is important to choose a tree company who cares about safety and determining the best method of care for the health and vigor of your trees. I'm also grateful to have a platform on which to share my observations.
And yes, I was genuinely proud to drive around in that beautifully wrapped truck with the crabapple blossoms and have so many opportunities to speak with many of you.
One of our multiple plant healthcare trucks used to help maintain and preserve trees across central Ohio!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.
10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!
By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
April 17, 2025
Flowering trees can be a great addition to any landscape. There is an unlimited range of options to add that splash of color to your property. The list is very large so I will pick 10 of my favorites that I have planted over my 35+ year career as an ISA Certified Arborist®. Flowering trees not only add a variety of colors, but additionally fragrance and many environmental benefits to pollinators, birds, and more! The timing of the blooms can be spread over several months with proper selections. There are many options among these genera, but I will concentrate on my favorites and best performers. The trees discussed in this article will stay in the small-to-medium size range.
Red Buckeye
I will start with one of my personal favorites, the red buckeye. Blooming in the April to May timeframe, this tall red blossom display is hard to beat in your landscape. This ovular shaped tree will produce red upright panicles that average 4 to 8 inches in length. This will make for a great specimen tree in your yard! If you’re an Ohio State fan, they will eventually produce buckeyes as well!
Common Name: Red Buckeye
Scientific Name: Aesculus pavia
Mature Height: 10 to 20 feet
Mature Width: 10 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with red flowers
Other noteworthy characteristics: Brown buckeye nuts. Brown leaves in the fall.
2. Flowering Dogwood
Dogwoods can be one of the most popular trees in central Ohio landscapes. There are many varieties which cover a wide color spectrum, mainly whites, yellows, pinks, and even some reds. These are also trees that can have all season interest due to their bark character, showy fruit, and vibrant fall color display. Cornelian cherry dogwood will be one of the first trees to bloom in the spring with small yellow flowers, but the species I prefer is flowering dogwood with its white spring bracts.
Common Name: Flowering Dogwood
Scientific Name: Cornus florida
Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves in the spring with white flowers.
Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Red to purple fall color. Persistent red fruit in the winter.
3. Okame Cherry
Another of my favorite early flowering trees would be the Okame cherry. This tree typically blooms in March with vibrant pink flowers. This too is a compact tree that should stay under 25 feet tall. This tree was made famous with its display in Washington DC. It has a mild fragrance and attracts many pollinators.
Common Name: Okame Cherry
Scientific Name: Prunus x okame
Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Pink flowers
4. Allegheny Serviceberry
Another tree with all season appeal would be the serviceberry. There are a few species and many cultivated varieties of serviceberry, but I prefer the Allegheny serviceberry. It produces early spring white flowers followed by edible fruit and finally, brilliant fall color!
Common Name: Allegheny Serviceberry
Scientific Name: Amelanchier laevis
Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with white flowers
Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Reddish orange fall color
5. PRAIRIFIRE CRABAPPLE
The crabapple is another longtime favorite among central Ohio landscapes. There are more varieties than I can count so I will just list a few of my favorites. If you are looking for white flowers, you cannot go wrong with Adirondack. My favorite pink choice would be prairiefire, with strawberry parfait coming in a close second.
Common Name: Prairifire Crabapple
Scientific Name: Malus x ‘Prairifire’
Mature Height: 15 to 20 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Spring maroon leaves with pink flowers
Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Green leaves with red veins in the summer, bronze leaves in the fall
6. Saucer Magnolia
Next on my list are magnolias. Once again, there are too many varieties to list, but the longtime favorites are the saucer magnolia, which has pink flowers, and the star magnolia which has white flowers. The saucer magnolia typically blooms around late March to early April and puts on quite the show! If you are looking for fragrance, make sure you add a sweetbay magnolia to your landscape!
Common Name: Saucer Magnolia
Scientific Name: Magnolia x soulangeana
Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 25 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with pink flowers
7. Eastern Redbud
Another early blooming favorite that is being produced with several new cultivated varieties is the eastern redbud! They are being developed with a variety of leaf colors, variation in bloom color, and growth habit as well, such as weeping. A classic selection that you cannot go wrong with is the straight species of eastern redbud with its beautiful pinkish purple flowers in the spring! This is the early flowering tree that is often seen along the edge of the woods in natural areas as well as in many landscapes. It flowers at a similar time as magnolia trees but is less likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures and Ohio’s wishy-washy weather.
Common Name: Eastern Redbud
Scientific Name: Cercis canadensis
Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 25 to 35 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Dark green heart-shaped leaves with pinkish purple leaves
8. Washington Hawthorn
One of the later bloomers in the spring would be the Washington Hawthorn. This is another tree that can have all season interest with the white flowers, fragrance, red fruit, and fall color, making this a great selection for your landscape. Its abundant red fruit supports many pollinators, birds, and more!
Common Name: Washington Hawthorn
Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum
Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves, white flowers, and red fruit
Other noteworthy characteristics: Orange and scarlet leaves in the fall
9. IVORY SILK JAPANESE TREE LILAC
Next on this list is the ivory silk tree lilac. This is a plant that produces a creamy/white plume, usually long after other trees have bloomed.
Common Name: Ivory Silk Japanese Tree Lilac
Scientific Name: Syringa reticulata
Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Dark green leaves with creamy white plumes
Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Golden to bronze fall color. Cherry-like bark that is attractive in the winter.
10. American Witch Hazel
Last (or first) on this list is witch hazel! Some witch hazels bloom in early spring such as Jelena and vernal witch hazel, but a personal favorite (and classic) is the American witch hazel. This plant blooms in the fall with beautiful yellow color that persists into winter, sometimes up to early spring.
Common Name: American Witch hazel
Scientific Name: Hamamelis virginiana
Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun
Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves that turn yellow in the fall and winter
This is just a small list of trees that could add a splash of color to your landscape. With a little research and planning, you can have color, fragrance, fruit, and other interesting characteristics throughout the year! Choose wisely and plan for the mature size of your plants when making selections and picking planting locations.
Please review our other articles on planting, mulching, watering, and other related topics before adding additional trees to your landscape in the coming year. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Fire Blight: More Than Just a Bad Sight!
By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
March 27, 2025
The Basics
Fire blight is a bacterial infection lethal to members of the Rosaceae family, which includes rose, pear, cherry, apple, serviceberry, hawthorn, and quince. While it can't be effectively cured, preventative measures have prolonged the lives of infected plants. Most importantly, disease-resistant cultivars have greatly reduced die-off rates.
What Does Fire Blight Look Like?
As the name suggests, plants affected by fire blight appear burnt. When daytime temperatures rise above 65 degrees, leaves begin to wilt, and new stems become dry and brown. Soon, whole twigs darken, and often curl into a distinctive 'shepherd's crook'.
Fruits turn black, and are “mummified” in place. Eventually, entire branches canker and ooze. At this point, the bacteria has spread to all parts of the tree, including the root system. There are fungal pathogens and weather-related injuries with similar visuals, so tissue samples should be sent to a lab before conducting treatment.
Where Does It Come From?
Erwinia amylovora, the bacterial strain causing fire blight symptoms, can be spread by air, water, and insect and human activity. It can enter a host plant in several ways. When flowers begin to open, air and waterborne strains find their way in to the flower's reproductive organs. As pollinators visit infected flowers, they spread the bacteria to uninfected flowers. Unsealed pruning cuts, broken branches, and even holes made by sucking insects, like aphids, are other paths into the tree. As the disease progresses to the point of bark canker, the cankers themselves are entry points, and the ooze seeping out of them attracts additional insect spreaders.
Humans distribute the bacteria when they cut or move affected wood, fruit, or leaves - just as germs linger on door handles, fire blight remains alive and mobile on all living tissue and the tools used to handle it. Deer and other herbivores further distribute fire blight by feeding.
Wilted leaves with a burnt color is a symptom of fire blight.
How Bad is It?
Bad. It spreads rapidly, mutates easily, and is almost always fatal. Young infected trees can die in a single season. Healthy, established trees being managed can hang on for many years, but still typically die because of the infection. While resistant cultivars have largely eliminated the death of entire properties, even today, infected plants are almost always in the express-lane to removal.
Can It Be Treated?
Not well. The only highly effective defense is planting cultivars resistant to infection. At this time, all pear and quince cultivars are somewhat susceptible. The popular apple cultivars Fuji, Honeycrisp, and Red Delicious show strong resistance to fire blight. For crabapples, 'Prairiefire', and 'Golden Raindrops' are highly resistant, while 'Autumn Brilliance' is a resistant serviceberry tree. No popular flowering cherry varieties are at high risk.
Branches infected by fire blight should be cautiously removed. Tools must be disinfected afterwards.
The second-best protection is proper cultural practices. Fire blight thrives in moisture and humidity, so plants in full sun with good airflow and well draining soil are less prone to infection. Proper irrigation is critical. Branches displaying fire blight symptoms should be cautiously removed.
Cuts must be made at least 10 inches below the first visibly infected branch portion. Tools must be disinfected with isopropyl alcohol or bleach solutions after every cut. Cut material must be collected and discarded properly. Pruning healthy tissue for clearance or fruit production should be kept to a minimum and cuts should be kept as small as possible. High-nitrogen fertilizers, like those used on turf, should be avoided to encourage cut wounds to seal over, rather than sprout.
Are There Chemical Controls?
There are many, but none are particularly good. The lowest-level chemical intervention is repeated spray applications of neem or horticultural oil during flowering. The viscous oils have shown slight improvements in infection resistance by clogging the openings airborne bacteria use to enter flower sex organs. They may only be used preventatively on healthy trees and can onlytreat as high as the applicator's spray system allows.
Leaves infected by fire blight
Repeated antibiotic spray applications in early spring are a slightly more effective option. They can be used preventatively, and to delay spread in already diseased trees. Unfortunately, applying these chemicals multiple times is often more expensive than replacement.. Worse, the erwiniaamylovora bacteria can develop resistance rapidly unless many different chemicals are cycled, driving up costs further. In my professional experience, the only somewhat effective chemical control is a trunk-injectedantibiotic. This once-each-spring application is also expensive, but may stave off the advance of infection for 5+ years.
Conclusion
While still deadly to susceptible hosts, the development of fire blight resistant cultivars has greatly reduced the rate of loss of some our favorite ornamental and fruit tree species. Planting in appropriate locations and improving pruning and irrigation practices are more effective and far cheaper than chemical controls. Submitting samples to a plant diagnostic laboratory is the only true way to confirm a fire blight infection. If you suspect fire blight is present in your trees, please call our local office at (614)-895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote to request a free quote from one of our ISA Certified Arborists®!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!
6 Harmful Pruning Methods for Trees
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 4th, 2025
Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner.
The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning!
An example of tree topping.
1. TREE TOPPING
One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues.
An example of lion tailing.
2. LION TAILING
Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.
A subtle example of excessive pruning. Note the small amount of interior branches that is uncharacteristic of honeylocust trees.
3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING
Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune.
4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS
There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.
Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut.
Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.
5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS
Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease.
6. UNIDEAL TIMING
Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window.
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Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)
By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025
If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.
Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.
Example:
It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.
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What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.
(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):
Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).
Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:
Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms
Plant peas when forsythia blooms
Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom
Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom
Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom
Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom
These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.
Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!
I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS
The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp
Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
How to Prepare Your Trees for Severe Storms
By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
April 3, 2025
The word “storm” can take on many different meanings: Thunderstorms, blizzards, ice storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, or one of our crew leaders Storm Wellman! Jokes aside, all types of storm events can wreak havoc on properties, causing significant damage to homes, landscapes, and personal property. Preventing storm damage is crucial for safeguarding your property and minimizing costly repairs. By taking proactive steps you can reduce the impact of severe weather. Regular maintenance and preparation are key to ensuring that your property remains protected when storms occur. In this article, we will explore practical tips to help protect your property against the destructive forces of nature.
WHAT IS "STORM DAMAGE"?
General Crew Leader Harry Carter removing a tree off of a house that failed during a thunderstorm.
Storm damage occurs when a tree or limbs from a tree fall and damage valued property. This can range from a tree limb falling on your gutter to a large tree falling onto your home. Storm damage results in millions of dollars in property loss every year.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO PREVENT STORM DAMAGE?
While it is not always possible to eliminate storm damage, steps can be taken to reduce its impact. However, extreme storms may still cause damage despite preventive efforts. See below for useful tips to help you identify at-risk trees and limbs as well commonly employed interventions to mitigate these risks for the future.
HOW TO IDENTIFY STORM DAMAGE RISKS
The key to reducing potential storm damage is identifying the hazards. The following are a few simple ways to try and identify potential hazards.
1. Look for hazardous dead limbs close to your house or other valued property
Dead limbs near a house.
2. Try to identify declining trees on your property by looking for the following:
A large number of dead limbs in the canopy of the tree
The existence of conks or mushrooms which are the fruiting bodies of decay on the trunk of the tree
In general, a tree that appears unhealthy (missing leaves, loose bark, etc.)
An example of co-dominant stems with multiple brace rods installed.
3. Locate high risk co-dominant stems
These are tight “V” type unions
May appear as multiple stems originating from one point in the trunk.
HOW TO MITIGATE HAZARDS
Mitigating the hazards within your trees can be done in many ways. At Russell Tree Experts, we can identify general and more noticeable hazards on your property during a tree inspection such as our free anytime quote or optional firm time quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®. Another option to consider is a tree risk assessment containing a thoroughly written report on a suspected hazardous tree. In this scenario, an ISA Certified Arborist® with a TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification) will employ various tools and tests from head-to-toe of your tree to assess the overall risk rating of your tree. Once hazards are identified either though a property inspection or tree risk assessment, a full mitigation plan can be put together. This plan may include, but is not limited to, tree pruning, tree removal, brace rod installation, cabling, and lightning protection to make your property safer and more resilient to storms.
IN SUMMARY
Don’t be scared - be prepared. A well-maintained tree with regular pruning and care will be stronger and more storm-resistant. Proactively identifying hazards and putting together a mitigation plan can help save money as well as reduce headaches when storm events occur. In the event of severe storm damage caused by a tree, Russell Tree Experts provides 24/7 emergency tree services with quick mobilization. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our local, friendly office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 9/19/2024 and was revised on 4/3/2025.
CHECK OUT THESE STORM RELATED VIDEOS!
Additional Arbor Ed Articles!
Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).