Winter Reading List

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
December 11, 2025

For me, Thanksgiving marks the end of lawn and garden work for the year. It’s time to get to work on the indoor tasks I’ve neglected all summer. It’s time to get back to the gym. It’s time to catch up on some reading.

Here are four of my favorite nature books, plus two others I’ve enjoyed recently that are only partially nature-themed.

1) The Man Who Climbs Trees (James Aldred, 2017)

Not only my favorite nature book—my favorite book, period.

In it, wildlife cameraman James Adlred recalls his travels to the world’s most untamed locations and his climbs in the the planet’s largest trees, as he pioneered techniques to film exotic animals for National Geographic and the BBC.

His concise writing style and matter-of-fact outlook keep the tempo fast and the adventures harrowing.

As another man who climbs trees, I’m profoundly jealous Mr. Aldred found a much cooler way to put our shared skill set to use!

 2) Entangled Life (Merlin Sheldrake, 2020)

The science will be too science-y for some, but the facts Mr. Sheldrake presents here are fascinating! Fungi are among the most adaptable, industrious, and dare I say, intelligent? life forms on the planet. We are only beginning to scratch the surface of their capabilities and potential benefit to humanity.

Once you get pulled into this one, you’ll have trouble putting it down. You’ll also annoy your friends and family reciting all the incredible things you’ve learned!

3) The Treeline (Ben Rawlence, 2022)

As our planet continues to warm, the boreal forests of the Arctic Circle march rapidly northward. In this book, environmentalist Ben Rawlence traveled to Greenland, Canada, Alaska, Scotland, and Siberia  to see these forests, meet the people they impact, and learn from the scientists studying there.

It takes a while to get moving, and the tempo is much slower than The Man Who Climbs Trees. Stick with him, though, because his concluding statement on climate change is profound!

4) The Light Eaters (Zoë Schlanger, 2024)

I listened to this on audiobook. Between the author’s fascinating content and pleasant reading, I found myself hoping for red lights.

Much like Entangled Life, this one is science-heavy but mind-blowing! While she never goes so far to suggest sentience, Ms. Schlanger makes a strong case plants can feel, hear, communicate, remember, and even plan ahead.

5) The Drunken Botanist (Amy Stewart, 2013)

Do you like plants and booze?

Me too! And we’re not alone.

In this best-seller, Ms. Stewart details how humans of all eras and all locations have been turning fruits, nuts, seeds, grains, herbs, trees, mushrooms, and just about anything else we can find into hooch. She even shares cocktail recipes and plant growing guides.

While the descriptions are entertaining and easy to digest, this book’s format reads more like a reference than a page-turner…I suspect you’ll find yourself pulling it off the shelf more than myother recommendations but will likely never read it cover-to-cover.

6) A Geography of Oysters (Rowan Jacobsen, 2007)

Rowan Jacobsen is another author I enjoy reading but am envious of! He has turned his passion for food and the places it comes from into a James Beard Award winning career.

Here, he travels the oyster-farming regions of North America, highlighting how their shape, color, and flavor are tied directly to the environment they are grown in. Yes, it’s more about food than nature, but this book’s emphasis on terroir will leave you hungry to travel our continent’s coasts and protect its waterways.

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So there you have it! – four of my favorite nature books and two more I enjoy that are nature-adjacent. I hope this winter finds you diving into one or more of them – ideally with a cocktail or plate of bivalves at your side! 

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COMPLIMENTARY CHRISTMAS TREE DROPOFF (FOR RECYCLING!)

For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree for free anytime at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) between Friday, December 26th 2025 and Friday, January 9th 2026. The drop-off zone will be at the front yard of our office with marked cones and signage! If you need any assistance, you can knock on our front door during business hours (8:30 AM - 4:30 PM M-F) and one of our friendly staff members will lend a hand! We’ll ensure that your Christmas tree gets reused to become mulch or compost!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020. With past experiences ranging from a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities, he has accrued more than 20 years in the green industry. Mitch is a graduate of the Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, Mitch plays guitar and banjo poorly. 

Behind the Scenes: Hurricane Relief

By Tyler Ford
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6877A
December 4, 2025

Ever since Hurricane Sandy carved its name into history in October 2012, Russell Tree Experts has rapidly responded to some of this nation’s most devastating natural disasters. A few notable disaster cleanup and hazardous tree removal projects we have provided response for were Hurricanes Matthew, Irma, Michael, and Ian, as well as other severe storms like tornadoes, ice storms, and wildfires. Quite literally, we have traveled coast-to-coast from as far west as California, to as far northeast as Massachusetts, and as far southeast as Florida. Most recently, we were in Augusta, Georgia from about October 2024 to February 2025 cleaning up about 525,000 cubic yards of woody debris left behind by Hurricane Helene.

Day 1

Today is the morning of October 7, 2024. Eight grapple truck operators, a mechanic, and I are rolling out with a fleet of grapple trucks and storm trailers, a service truck and a pickup truck toward Augusta, GA. We have no idea how long we’ll be gone for and no sense of how bad the damage truly is. (I didn’t know that what awaited us was the most destruction I had witnessed in my over ten years of storm response experience.)

Upon arrival, I passed by hundreds of trees still laying on houses and complete neighborhoods lined with piles of vegetation and house rubble fifteen feet in height. Towering loblolly pines twisted and snapped like toothpicks. Power lines tangled with uprooted trunks. Neighborhoods that were once beautiful with various woody species were left decimated. It was at this point that I knew we’ll be cleaning up for quite some time.

Day 71

After seventy one long days with very little time off, losing track of days, let alone which week, is very common. The only thing that felt normal was the conversations with my crew and the precious moments during video calls with the family at home at the end of yet another long day.  

The residents of the community have gotten very familiar with our trucks and so very grateful. Many residents have offered us coffee, water and tasty snacks!

This day is very special and eye opening to me as I brought up an idea to the crew of donating toys for the toy drive of Augusta this holiday season. It would’ve been very understandable for the crew to not participate as they had been putting in full effort to restoring the community. However, without hesitation, after a long week of work, everyone agreed to join me for a couple hours in purchasing and donating over a thousand dollars’ worth of toys. Although there’s still no end in sight, this was for me a vital piece of refocusing for the future of the project.

Day 140

After one hundred and forty days with little time off like two days off for Thanksgiving and five days off for Christmas and an OSU Buckeyes national championship playoff run, the community is officially cleaned up and we are set to head home. I can see kids playing in the yard and residents mowing growing, green grass in areas that used to be cluttered by trees and rubble like concrete, wood, and pieces of roofing shingles.

Montage video of our woody debris cleanup in Augusta, GA from Hurricane Helene

As we pack up our equipment and prepare for the long drive home, I find myself reflecting on the people who carried out this mission from start to finish: Scott, Andrew, Angel, Steve, Juve, Todd, Storm, Brian, and Wyatt. To the residents of Augusta, even in the middle of an unimaginable loss, you welcomed us with kindness, patience, and generosity. Your shared stories, your encouragement, your offers of coffee on cold mornings and water on hot days. These small gestures mean more to me than you may ever know.

From left to right: Scott, Andrew, Angel, Wyatt, Tyler, Steven, Brian, Juve, Todd, and Storm.

To the crew and my family at home, you are the heart of this article. The crew for one hundred and forty grueling days, through early mornings, late nights, sore muscles, and homesickness, showed up with unwavering dedication. You all worked with integrity, you lifted each other up, and even after the hardest days, you still found the compassion to give back, whether through a brief conversation with a resident or generosity to the Augusta toy drive.

This project was more than a cleanup. It was a testament to what can be accomplished when skilled hands, strong hearts, and a community’s spirit come together. Though the scars of Hurricane Helene will remain for years, the path to recovery was built on gratitude, teamwork, and hope.

Interviewing our mechanic Brian about his experience in Augusta, GA

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COMPLIMENTARY CHRISTMAS TREE DROPOFF 2025

For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree for free anytime at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) between Friday, December 26th 2025 and Friday, January 9th 2026. The drop-off zone will be at the front yard of our office with marked cones and signage! If you need any assistance, you can knock on our front door during business hours (8:30 AM - 4:30 PM M-F) and one of our friendly staff members will lend a hand! We’ll ensure that your Christmas tree gets reused to become mulch or compost!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Tyler Ford I Offsite Project Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Tyler joined Russell Tree Experts in 2013. He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and is certified with EHAT, TRAQ, OSHA 30, CPR, and first aid! In his free time, Tyler enjoys spending time with his family and exploring nature at Great Smoky Mountains National Park. His favorite tree is the southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), so much so that he named his youngest daughter Magnolia!

Make Your Yard POP in the Fall: 10 Trees to Add Fall Color to Your Landscape!

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
October 23, 2025

Autumn is upon us! And one of the joys of the season is admiring a vast array of fall foliage. If you are considering adding trees to your landscape, you may be wondering which trees provide the best fall color. Look no further! The list below includes my top 10 picks for trees of various sizes known for their outstanding fall foliage.

1. Smooth Sumac

Smooth sumac is often overlooked when it comes to landscape plants, but it delivers some of the most vibrant early fall color out of any smaller sized tree. Smooth sumac also has the benefit of being well adapted to a wide array of soils making it a relatively low-maintenance tree. It’s also accompanied by scarlet red berry clusters that if left unharvested will persist after leaf drop extending its landscape value into winter.

Scientific Name: Rhus glabra
Mature Height: 10 to 15 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Orange to scarlet or crimson red

2. Washington Hawthorn

Making a reappearance off our article, 10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!, the Washington hawthorn also provides excellent fall foliage as the dark green leaves turn to various shades of orange and red. Similar to the Smooth sumac, the red berries endure after leaf drop and provide tasty snacks for song birds trying to make it through winter. If the thorny branches do not deter you, then this small to medium sized tree is a great year-round choice.

Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum
Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun
Fall Color: Oranges and reds

3. Black Tupelo (or Black Gum)

Black tupelo, or black gum as some call it, is one of the most striking native trees for fall color. Its glossy green summer leaves turn into a fiery mix of yellow, orange, scarlet, and maroon. Black tupelos are medium-sized trees with a pyramidal shape when young that become more round with age and prefer moist, acidic soils. Their brilliant color, wildlife value, and tolerance of wet or compacted soils make it a fantastic specimen forboth residential and natural landscapes alike.

Scientific Name: Nyssa sylvatica
Mature Height: 30 to 50 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Variety of oranges and reds

4. American Persimmon

Persimmon trees are known for their sweet fruit that ripen in late fall just in time to make their way into pies, cakes, cookies, and sorbets. But that is not the only thing they bring to the table in fall. They also provide excellent yellow to orange fall color for a medium sized tree. Persimmons can be a bit slow growing, certainly taking their time to mature to “fruit-ion”, but those willing to wait will soon find themselves the family favorite come Thanksgiving.

Scientific Name: Diospyros virginiana
Mature Height: 30 to 55 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Yellow to orange

5. Sassafras

This fun to say tree is a welcome addition to any landscape, easily identifiable by its unusually shaped leaves smelling of root beer in the spring and of citrus in the fall. These leaves can be oval, mitten-shaped, or lobed but come fall they will burst into brilliant combinations of yellow, orange, and red. The bark on sassafras is also known for its aromatic scent of cinnamon, citrus, and vanilla. This medium sized, drought tolerant fall spectacle of a tree is a perfect fit for homeowners who want to “spice up” their landscape.

Scientific name: Sassafras albidum (most common)
Mature Height: 30 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 35 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Varies from yellow to deep reddish purple

6. River Birch

River birch is often planted for its ability to thrive in less-than-ideal drainage situations and for its unique bark texture that brings strong visual appeal year-round to the landscape. The beautiful golden yellow fall leaves are but another reason to add to the long list of reasons to consider adding a river birch to your landscape. However, some soils may prove difficult for river birch to access all of the nutrients it needs. Thankfully this can be remedied easily and here’s an article by another one of our arborists on this topic, Iron and Manganese Deficiency.

Scientific Name: Betula nigra
Mature Height: 40 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 25 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Golden yellow

7. Ginkgo

Dating all the way back to the mid-Jurassic period, Ginkgo trees are some of the oldest and toughest trees around. Little known fact, four ginkgo trees survived the bombing of Hiroshima and are still around to this day. If this tree can survive the unfortunate circumstances of an atomic bomb, then this tree will do just fine in your heavily urban landscape. On top of this tree’s incredible resilience, it also boasts spectacularly bright yellow fall foliage that is sure to amaze. Just be sure when you are selecting this tree that you get a male ginkgo as the females produce fruit with a rather unpleasant odor.

Scientific Name: Ginkgo biloba
Mature Height: 40 to 70 feet
Mature Width: 30 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow

8. American Beech

Some may be surprised to see me recommend an American beech tree in light of my previous article, Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches, but any list of trees talking about fall color would be remiss without its inclusion. The silvery smooth bark of the American Beech is complimented by golden amber fall leaves that hold on long into winter after most other trees have long since gone bare. It is slow growing, but sure to impress for a long time.

Scientific Name: Fagus grandifolia
Mature Height: 50 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 40 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: full sun to partial sun
Fall Color: Bronze to copper

9. Red Oak

As the name would imply, red oaks provide a tower of brick red leaves that can easily command over a large landscape. Their ability to grow quickly while juvenile and thrive in our native soils makes the mighty red oak a staple for new planters looking for a cornerstone piece in a larger more natural landscape. However, in the compacted soils and confined spaces of our more urban areas, the red oak can face challenges that limit its growth and diminish the vibrant color it is known for.

Scientific Name: Quercus rubra
Mature Height: 60 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 60 to 80 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Dark reddish brown

10. Shagbark Hickory

Truthfully all members of the hickory family are going to give you an outstanding yellow fall foliage and deserve a place on this list, but I chose to highlight the shagbark hickory for the additional appeal of its iconic peeling bark. Hickory trees are incredibly durable and long-lived trees that also require minimal care once established. If you are looking for a unique, low-maintenance tree that will provide excellent shade, beautifully vibrant yellow fall foliage, and habitat for wildlife for tens of generations, then look no further.

Scientific Name: Carya ovata
Mature Height: 70 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 50 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow

And that’s my list! Whether you’re looking for bold reds, glowing golds, or a striking mix of fall hues, these 10 trees offer some of the best autumn color nature has to offer. And here at Russell Tree Experts we offer various tree care services to keep your landscape display breathtaking for years to come, such as deep root irrigation, fertilization, insect and disease management, tree pruning, and much more! For a free tree work quote on how to elevate your landscape by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000. Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

Fall Fertilization: A Boost For Tree Health and Growth!

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
October 9, 2025

As the leaves turn vibrant shades of orange and red and the air grows crisp, fall signals a time of transition for trees. While many of us associate fertilization with spring, fertilizing trees in the fall offers unique and powerful benefits that can set your trees up for success. By giving your trees a nutrient boost as the growing season winds down, you’re helping them thrive through winter and into the next year. Additionally, combining fall fertilization with spring fertilization can amplify these benefits, helping to ensure your trees remain healthy, strong, and beautiful year-round.

At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum) fall foliage

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum) fall foliage

Why Fall Fertilization Matters

In the fall, trees shift their energy from producing leaves and growing branches to strengthening their root systems and preparing for dormancy. This is a critical time for trees, as they store nutrients to survive the cold months ahead. Fertilizing in the fall provides the essential nutrients trees need to bolster their roots, improve resilience, and prepare for a robust start in spring.

One method of fall fertilization is through the use of an irrigation lance to deliver nutrients below ground, closer to a tree’s roots.

One of the biggest benefits of fall fertilization is root development. During autumn, trees focus on growing their roots, which anchor them and absorb water and nutrients. By applying fertilizer in the fall, you give trees the building blocks they need to expand and strengthen their root systems. Stronger roots mean trees are better equipped to handle drought, storms, and other environmental stresses.

Fall fertilization also helps trees store nutrients for winter. As trees enter dormancy, they rely on stored energy to survive until spring. Fertilizer provides a nutrient reserve that trees can draw upon during this period, to help them emerge from winter in a healthy condition. This nutrient boost supports overall tree health, leading to better resistance against pests, diseases, and harsh winter conditions.

Another advantage of fall fertilization is improved bud and flower formation. The nutrients provided in the fall contribute to the development of next season’s buds, which means healthier blooms and foliage when spring arrives. Trees that are well-nourished in the fall often produce healthier flowers and lusher leaves, enhancing your landscape.

Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus) fall foliage

Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus) fall foliage

The Power of Combining Fall and Spring Fertilization

While fall fertilization lays a strong foundation for tree health, pairing it with spring fertilization creates a dynamic duo for year-round vitality. Spring is a time of rapid growth, as trees produce new leaves, flowers, and branches. Fertilizing in the spring provides an immediate supply of nutrients to fuel this growth. It supports vigorous shoot development, leading to fuller canopies and stronger branches. Spring fertilization also enhances photosynthesis, helping trees produce the energy they need to grow and thrive.

When you fertilize in both seasons, you’re giving your trees a balanced nutrient plan. Fall fertilization builds the root system and prepares trees for winter, while spring fertilization supports above-ground growth and energy production. Together, they help your trees have the resources they need at every stage of their growth cycle. This combination promotes long-term health, making trees more resilient to environmental challenges and helping them live longer, more productive lives.

In summary, fall fertilization is a simple and effective way to support your trees’ health, strengthening their roots and preparing them for winter. By taking the time, this fall to nourish your trees, you’ll help them thrive for seasons to come. For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Why Do Leaves Change Color?

By Laura Howell
September 25, 2025

How and what does a tree eat? Why do leaves change colors in the fall? Why do trees drop their leaves? 

Trees, just like humans, need nutrients, oxygen, water, and the sun to thrive. Also, adaptations for surviving our climates have occurred in both trees and humans, but ours are less showy in the fall.

Let's start with the first question: how and what does a tree eat?

When we eat carbohydrates, our bodies produce glucose, aka sugar, which we either use instantly or store for later. Similarly, trees also utilize carbohydrates in their growth, but instead of eating a sandwich, they use water from their leaves and roots, carbon dioxide (CO2) from the environment, and energy from their leaves through a process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis uses the leaves’ stored chlorophyll, which produces? … You guessed it, carbohydrates! Science note: Chlorophyll is also why leaves appear green… more on that shortly!

Common serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)

Common serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)

So, how does this tie into the next question: Why do leaves change colors in the fall?

Well, simply put, the sun is to blame for the fall colors we get to enjoy. Because the sun is getting further away from our hemisphere, the days become shorter, and the temperatures start to drop. This causes the tree’s adaptation to enter the chat. Remember the tree needs water, sunlight, and CO2 to make its food (glucose), and what is beginning to decrease? … That's right, the amount of sunlight the stored chlorophyll can use to make energy with. 

For the tree to survive the coming months of less water absorption from frozen soil, no rain, and reduced sunlight, the tree must dramatically reduce its energy needs. The cooler weather and shorter days trigger the trees to stop producing and start reclaiming the existing chlorophyll nutrients. 

Freeman maple (Acer x freemanii)

Freeman maple (Acer x freemanii)

Remember the science note from earlier? This reduction and reclaiming of the existing chlorophyll cause the leaves to change colors. Chlorophyll absorbs red and blue light, causing most of us to see leaves as green. As the level of chlorophyll continues to decrease, we get to see the other colors in the spectrum. Remember ROY-G-BIV? Once green gets out of there, the fall show can really start.

My friend Kim Frye is an environmental scientist, and while I was chatting with her about this article, she shared a fun detail about leaf pigments: "[trees produce] xanthophyll (yellow orange) and anthocyanins (red purple blue), and they also help all year long when the light changes in the mornings and at nightfall. Those wavelengths become more predominant as we head into fall and maximize photosynthesis beyond the wavelengths chlorophyll uses."

Now onto the last question: Why do trees drop their leaves?

Ginkgo tree leaves (Ginkgo biloba)

Once the tree has reclaimed all the available chlorophyll stored in its leaves, an important step in the tree’s survival happens: it drops its leaves. It does this for a few reasons, but the main one is to reduce energy needs and conserve as much water and stored energy as it can. This increases its survival during the winter months when it can't produce energy from the sun and absorb water through the frozen ground. This also ensures the tree has enough energy come springtime to grow and produce new leaves to begin the photosynthesis cycle again. I bet that it is a re-leaf to trees each spring!

Think of the complex and inspiring work all of the colors mean as the leaves put on their show, the next time you are enjoying leaves. Whether that is in the spring when everything is green and energetic, or in the fall with the beautiful multi-colored show ushering in a restful period for plants.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Laura Howell | Human Resources Generalist, Russell Tree Experts

Laura joined Russell Tree Experts in January 2025. She supports our staff through her role in the HR department. Laura is an alum from Franklin University and CSCC with degrees in forensic accounting and finance. Outside of work she enjoys traveling, gardening, and camping.

Stressful Situations

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
September 11, 2025

We're not so different, humans and trees. We're both born with tools to keep ourselves upright and thriving. We are impacted by many of the same stressors and overcome them in similar ways. But because the majority of you reading this are people, not plants, human responses to stress may seem obvious, while tree responses are a mystery.

Let's close this gap in understanding by focusing on common tree stressors, what they look like, and how to manage them in human terms. To maintain a light degree of stress, I'll even include a quiz at the end (not a joke - read closely!).

2 diagrams will be critical to keep in mind as you read - the disease triangle and the integrated pest management pyramid.

Disease Triangle

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) System Pyramid

The disease triangle shows disease is only possible when a pathogen, a susceptible host, and a favorable environment are all present. If any of those is lacking, disease cannot happen. 

The integrated pest management control pyramid shows the most responsible and long-term solution to pest prevention is proper culture. This means native trees planted in appropriate locations, soils rich in microorganisms, and gardens promoting pollinators and predators. In this model, chemicals are the least-used option.

Our team member Scott making a tree pruning cut!

Pruning

Luckily, the days of bloodletting as medicine are long gone. Today, we would never cut our calf to cure influenza or apply leaches to arthritic joints. Yet, that's still how we treat our trees. Aside from a few specific fungal situations and removing co-dominant leads from young trees, pruning stressed trees makes the situation worse. As with the human body, wounds should be kept as minimal and as small as possible.

Nutrient Deficiency/Toxicity

When we're hungry, we eat. Trees do, too -- an unobstructed root system and full canopy can provide a tree all it needs to succeed.

We know what starvation looks like in humans and understand the problems caused by lack of specific nutrients (decreased immune system from lack of vitamin C, fatigue and pale skin from iron deficiency, etc.), but we don't think of tree nutrition in the same way.

An example of chlorosis in a tree, likely due to an iron or manganese deficiency

In trees, nutrient deficiencies can be indicated by small, misshapen, and/or discolored leaves. A hungry tree may look wilted, or droop. It may begin to produce branches on the trunk because it no longer has the energy to pump water to existing leaves. Like us, trees can be otherwise healthy, but suffer because of a single lacking nutrient (yellow leaves due to manganese deficiency, for example).

While organic fertilizers like the ones we apply at Russell Tree Experts are nearly impossible to over-apply, excess petroleum-based fertilizers can be as deadly to trees as excess donuts to humans. Over-fertilized trees may develop bark cracks or poor structure from rapid expansion. More critically, they may outpace the natural microorganisms in the air and soil around them, leaving them reliant on humans to provide necessary food.

The point of all this is trees and humans both require a diverse diet, and are typically able to achieve it with natural feeding. Supplementation to fulfill those dietary needs is only needed if there's a specific deficiency. Fertilizing a tree stressed from drought is no more helpful than giving a sandwich to a man who's been burned.

An example of how a leaf can curl and droop due to drought stress

Heat/Drought Stress

We all know the misery of standing in the sun on a hot day. Unlike us, though, trees can't sweat or jump in a pool. Instead, they close their stomata (the pores on their leaves) to help preserve water, and shed leaves to decrease the surface area the sun can dry out.

Heat and drought stressed trees often look wilted, with dry, brown, curled leaves falling in summer. The takeaway? If you're in heat, a dose a cough syrup won't make you less hot, but drinking plenty of water will allow you to sweat and cool naturally. Similarly, it's common for trees to look unhealthy in summer, but the only solutions are cooler temperatures and more water - pruning or fertilizer only make things worse.

Pathogens

Like most illnesses in humans, most tree infections are short-lived and controlled by the tree itself. We rely on beneficial fungi, bacteria, and viruses in our guts. But trees create symbiotic (helpful for both) relationships with microorganisms in the air, water, and soil. If a disease gets past a tree's microorganism army, the tree can block its own vascular system to isolate the pathogen in place.

A Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) affected by rhizosphaera needle cast.

Also like us, healthy living prevents tree disease and shortens recovery. This means mulching the root zone, watering during drought, and yes, even applying fertilizer and pruning out diseased branches.  

The signs and symptoms of tree pathogens vary broadly. Cherry black knot and cedar-hawthorn rust develop fruiting bodies on branch tips and fruits. Crabapple scab causes premature leaf drop, while rhizosphaera needlecast causes permanent needle loss in spruces. All are host-specific - they cannot pass from one type of tree to another.

In both humans and plants, some pathogens require additional action. As with drugs in humans, fungicides should only be used on plants in specifics dosages and intervals, and should only be used as needed to prevent resistance.

QUIZ TIME!

We’ve made it to the end of this article, which means quiz time! Time to put your newfound knowledge to the test! Tip: It is an open-note quiz. If you take and submit the quiz with a passing grade (3 or more correct answers), you’ll be entered in to win a free RTE gift bag. Shipping and handling free for those in the 48 contiguous United States. Winner will be drawn on Thursday, September 18th. You may retake the quiz if you only scored 1 or 2 correct answers in your first attempt! As always, thank you for taking the time to read our articles. For a free tree work quote by 1 of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

Take the quiz HERE.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!

Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
September 4, 2025

If you’ve got a beautiful beech (Fagus) tree in your yard or your property backs up to one of central Ohio’s native woodlands, then you’ve likely noticed just how special these trees are. Their smooth gray bark, golden amber fall foliage, and nut production for local wildlife make them a favorite in both natural and landscaped settings. But in recent years, a troubling new disease has been silently making its way through Ohio’s forests, beech leaf disease (BLD).

Beech tree leaves infected by beech leaf disease.

First spotted in northeastern Ohio in 2012, BLD has quickly spread across the eastern U.S. and into parts of Canada. It’s been linked to a microscopic worm, called a nematode, that attacks beech leaves and buds. Beech leaf disease is easily recognizable by its distinctive dark green bands between the leaf veins. In the fall, the affected leaf bands can appear yellow. As the infection worsens, the leaves thicken and take on a leathery feel and may begin to curl while the nematodes spread to new leaf buds. This damage prevents the leaves from photosynthesizing properly. Repeated damage can kill young beech trees in 2 to 5 years. Larger, more mature beech trees seem to be able to hold out longer, but are still affected. Some have shown to begin losing branches from the bottom of the canopy and work upwards year over year.

Another example of beech leaves affected by BLD.

Fortunately for Franklin County and our surrounding neighbors, no infected beech trees have been observed so far. However, Delaware and Licking county residents should be on high alert because Morrow, Coshocton, and Muskingum counties are all actively dealing with BLD moving through their forests and landscapes, and it’s not showing any signs of slowing down. Thankfully, Ohio State University plant pathology professor Enrico Bonello, and assistant professor Kayla Perry are hard at work developing better diagnostic tools and treatment plans to better identify and counteract beech leaf disease. Specifically, Benello has come up with ways to identify infected but not yet symptomatic beech trees, and Perry has promising research suggesting that nematicides and potassium fertilizers can at least slow the progression, if not cure the tree. Further research is still needed, and rest assured, we at Russell Tree Experts are following them closely as the knife that is BLD plunges ever deeper towards the heart of Ohio. As a resident of Central Ohio, especially those of you in Delaware and Licking counties, you can help by taking a look the next time you see a beech tree and reporting any sightings of beech leaf disease to your local OSU extension.

American beech trees (Fagus grandifolia) transitioning into beautiful, fall color!

If you’ve ever enjoyed the shade of a beech tree, admired its golden amber leaves in the fall, or watched birds and squirrels dart through its branches, you already know how much these trees contribute to life in central Ohio. BLD is a serious threat. By staying informed, taking care of the trees we have, and supporting ongoing research, we can protect these iconic trees for future generations. Even if you don’t have a beech tree in your own yard, you’ve probably passed by one in your neighborhood, a nearby metro park, along a bike trail, or at a local school. Now’s the time to look up, take notice, and lend a hand (or a rake) in the fight against beech leaf disease. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

Set in Stone: A Letter of Gratitude, Farewell, and Exciting New Worlds

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
August 21, 2025

It’s not everyday that life-changing experiences come along that alter the trajectory of your career. It’s also not everyday that you find a supportive and inspiring employer like Joe Russell and Russell Tree Experts, that encourages you to pursue what drives you. I’ve had the good fortune of both.

I met Joe Russell in 2004 when we worked together briefly at another tree care company. The very next year, Russell Tree Experts opened for business. I began working there in 2011, took a small break from the profession after going back to school and pursuing a different field of work, and ultimately made my way back in 2019. Fast forward to 2022, and as the world is finding its way back to some level of normalcy after the pandemic, a series of events and chance encounters led to an opportunity to work abroad as a gardener and arborist in Japan. I remember how much thought I gave to this, the weight of that decision, not sure what the right decision even was. When I finally brought it up to Joe, I think he was almost more excited and sure of it than I was. Never one to miss an opportunity to lift up others around him, he said, “You gotta do it!”

The time I spent living and working as a gardener in Japan, to put it simply, had a more profound impact on my life than perhaps anything else ever has. In my work, I was able to approach new methods of pruning and garden care with a beginner’s mind while simultaneously applying over two decades of work experience. And being fully submersed in a different culture on the other side of the world was in itself an amazing experience. Having that opportunity arise in mid-life, with a few more years of life’s wisdom under my belt, made for a different experience than it would have been in my 20s, an age when people typically have the chance to pursue a travel-abroad adventure just after college. While others would probably fill their free time in Japan with Tokyo’s night-life and taking in all of the amazing food the culture has to offer, I spent mine visiting gardens. Dozens and dozens of gardens. In the last 3 months of my time there, I moved to Kyoto, the once-capital of and historic epicenter of the country, and pursued a self-study intensive of over 100 gardens throughout the city and surrounding countryside. I knew before leaving that I wanted to share what I learned and saw with others when I returned to Ohio. And, as if having the support of Joe Russell to leave and pursue a dream in the first place wasn’t amazing enough, I had a job waiting for me at Russell Tree Experts when I returned. However, as I settled back into everyday life in Ohio, a flame that had been lit inside me from my time abroad refused to go out. In fact, it grew with each passing day.

Iwakura Japanese Gardens began as a side-venture landscape business, born from that flame. I found a sense of peace and stillness in my soul while working in and visiting so many sacred spaces in Japan, and that felt like something worth sharing. The pursuit of an offering so niche as designing and building Japanese gardens, in Central Ohio of all places, may sound like a fruitless undertaking. But a “build it and they will come” approach has so far been met with a positive reception. From business locations to private residences, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the number of individuals that express a real interest in having the Japanese garden aesthetic, or parts of it, in their landscapes. Enough so that it now makes sense to pursue it full-time.

Iwakura (e-wa-ku-ra) Japanese Gardens specializes in the design and build of Japanese-style gardens and landscape features. With a focus on minimalism, elements like stone, wood, water, and select plants are used to create spaces that mimic scenes and experiences of the natural world. Empty spaces in the garden are just as important as the physical elements themselves, allowing the eyes to “rest” between elements as the garden is viewed. Like the feeling we get when we declutter a living space, a Japanese garden has strong elements, but fewer of them and only what’s essential, creating a space around you that calms and quiets the mind. For those that do not explicitly want a Japanese-style garden, many of the design elements can still be incorporated into a more traditional midwest landscape to create outdoor spaces that work with the home’s architecture and use-requirements for the space. Larger stones can be incorporated into bed spaces as a strong, anchoring element. Groundcovers and stone borders can take the place of, or reduce, the need for typical edging and mulching practices. A small water feature placed next to a patio or screened porch in the backyard can bring the peaceful sound of water and a touch of the Japanese aesthetic to the landscape. Japanese gardens work wonderfully in the biggest and smallest of spaces alike.

I’ve had the pleasure of working directly with many of you who are reading this article. A few of you even expressed words of encouragement when I informed you that I was leaving and going to Japan. For that, I thank you. My role at Russell Tree Experts may be coming to an end, but I look forward to working with them in a different capacity, and I’m grateful to be able to refer my friends, family, and landscape clients to such a trusted and respected tree care company when the need arises. Ironically, my bittersweet departure from Russell Tree Experts reminds me that nothing is set in stone, even as the gardens and landscapes that I now create are quite literally set in and designed with stone as a primary aesthetic.

I hope you will continue to place your trust in Russell Tree Experts, benefit from the educational articles they write, and support the health and preservation of trees and beautiful outdoor spaces!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

The Impact of SO MUCH Water on Trees!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
August 1, 2025

Happy Friday, August 1st! Here are 3 quick thoughts I’d like to share this morning:

1. SO MUCH RAIN!

This is the wettest growing season I can recall to date in my professional career as an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. Normally by this point in the year, I’m watering different parts of my garden daily and have set up the sprinkler on my lawn at least a few times. I have done neither of those things thus far and even found myself moving some of my container grown trees this past weekend onto the porch because they were being over-watered by mother nature and starting to show signs of stress. Despite the beautiful green lawns and lush new growth in our trees and shrubs, the high volume of rain mixed with cool overnight temperatures have resulted in some of the most prolific foliar fungal disease symptoms I have observed to date. Anthracnose, a common foliar fungal disease of oak, maple, ash and sycamore has run rampant through central Ohio and I’m even noticing it in native forest grown trees. Applescab, black spot and rust diseases on foliage have also been unusually bad. Even some trees that have been preventatively treated in the spring are developing symptoms due to the longer than normal “spring-like” wet season we’re experiencing. The good news is that most of the foliar fungal pathogens we deal with are aesthetic in their damage, often just causing leaf distortion, brown spots on the leaf surface or partial defoliation, and have little impact on the overall long-term health of the tree. Some of these diseases can be easily managed so give us a call if we can help!

An example of anthracnose

2. The Dryness is (Likely) Coming

Despite the excessive moisture we’ve had throughout the summer so far, we’re at the beginning of what has historically been the driest part of the growing season in central Ohio. August and September are the two months that I see the highest mortality of newly planted trees and shrubs due to drought stress. The drought of last August and September 2024 was historic and for the first time, I observed established trees that had been planted correctly and in the ground for over a decade dry up and die. Generally, healthy and established trees that have been in the ground for over 5 years do not require supplemental water to get them through the growing season. When we have stretches of 6 to 8 weeks without rainfall, even your established trees need help. Do not let yourself be fooled by how wet the season has been thus far. When conditions change this month, be sure to have your watering wands (and buckets) out and ready. Remember that delivering water to trees and shrubs slowly and deeply is the key and that in most cases, irrigation systems and sprinklers, although great for lawns and flower beds, will not reach the depths required to sufficiently hydrate tree roots. Last year, Russell Tree Experts began offering a new service called deep root irrigation (DRI). DRI uses a lance to inject water deep into the root system of trees and shrubs. This method helps bypass the roots of turf, weeds, or ground cover and delivers water directly to the tree roots while also reducing water lost to runoff or evaporation like you might experience if applying water at the surface level. We saved many newly planted trees and woody landscapes with this service through the end of last summer/early fall and kept a lot of newly planted trees hydrated while their owners were on vacation. Let us know if we can help you with your tree watering needs!

3. Meet New Team Members!

Lastly (but not leastly), I’d like to introduce the two newest members of our management team, Andrew Hendricks and Alex Miller. Both of these gentlemen are ISA Certified Arborists®, have a long history of excellence at Russell Tree Experts and have likely been in your yard already to prune a tree or treat for a disease/insect problem. Andrew joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been working in the green industry for over a decade. He holds degrees in forestry and wildlife management and is an avid gardner and outdoorsman. Alex has a strong background in the nursery industry and has been working to keep your trees maintained and healthy at Russell Tree Experts since 2021. These guys are dedicated to the long term care of trees and to making the world a better place. We’re fortunate to have them on staff! They’ll be out and about regularly performing consultations and estimate requests so don’t be shy if you see them in your yard. You’ll be in great hands. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!

Andrew Hendricks

Alex Miller

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

5 Tree Watering Methods Ranked Worst to Best!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
July 24, 2025

WHY WATER A TREE? 

Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best! 

HOW TO WATER A TREE?

OPTION 1
LAWN SPRINKLER 

Watering a tree with a sprinkler or hose is one method of tree watering, however, it is typically inefficient for trees and woody plants. A tree takes in water through its roots, and it is common to see sprinklers and hose operators spray water on the tree’s trunk and leaves. Not only is this an inefficient use of water, but it can lead to leaf scorch if watering is done during a bright and sunny day. A slightly more effective method would be to point the water towards the tree roots, but another issue to be cautious of is water running off and ending up elsewhere such as nearby grass, plants, concrete, or towards a sewer drain. Over time, this can also contribute to erosion through soil displacement. This can be minimized by installing a tree mulch ring with a subtle berm around the perimeter so that the mulch can retain as much water for the tree as possible. Out of the 5 tree watering methods discussed here, this would be my last option, but it is better than nothing and is a good alternative to not watering at all. 

Overall Rating: ★☆☆☆☆

OPTION 2
Water BUCKET

A second way to water a tree would be to grab a bucket, fill it with water, and then dump it over the tree’s root zone. This will do a better job at targeting the tree’s roots for proper water absorption and minimize any risk of leaf scorch by keeping the leaves dry, but water runoff can still be a concern, especially if you dump the water all at once. To minimize this, the bucket of water can be slowly distributed in a circle around the tree anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away from the trunk. A disadvantage to this approach is that too much water at one time can lead to runoff. 

Overall Rating: ★★☆☆☆

Option 3
WATERING CAN/GARDEN HOSE

Another tree watering method would be to slowly water the tree using a watering can or a garden hose on a slower, softer setting. Avoiding the trunk and canopy of the tree will eliminate the risk of leaf scorch and reduce the rate of evaporation. Watering at a slower, longer duration will help water infiltrate deeper into the root system and encourage more outward root growth. If using a watering can, I recommend watering 1-2 inches away from the surface and in a circle around the canopy drip line to minimize water runoff.  

Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆

OPTION 4
IRRIGATION LANCE 

Next up, is watering a tree with an irrigation lance! Deep root irrigation (DRI) involves the use of an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water a few inches below ground level, directly targeting the root zone of the tree. Benefits of this watering method are that it minimizes water absorption by aboveground, competing plants, and eliminates any water runoff. Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.  

Deep root irrigation is a service that Russell Tree Experts offers to customers, but an irrigation lance can also be purchased at a home-and-garden store that can connect to your garden hose at home. One detail to consider is that the water from your garden hose may not come out at a high enough psi to break up some compacted soil, but you would still be achieving the goal of watering your trees! One benefit of having Russell Tree Experts water your trees is that we can access trees hard to reach by garden hose (if they are far away from the hose bib) and also water your trees if you are not home, such as on vacation! 

Overall Rating: ★★★★☆

More on deep root irrigation!

OPTION 5
DRIP IRRIGATION

And lastly, one of the most effective and efficient methods of watering a tree is through drip irrigation. This is the process of applying water slowly over an extended period of time. Drip irrigation is very similar to method 3 (with the watering can/garden hose), but the difference is that you slow it down significantly and water over the course of an hour, or even longer depending on the size of the tree. This heavily reduces the potential for water runoff, soil/mulch erosion, and water evaporation. Due to the slower release, the tree will take in water for longer compared to a quick, few minutes of hose spraying. Less water can be used as a higher percentage of water will be targeted towards the tree and not stolen by nearby grass and plants or evaporated by the sun. 

The most expensive way to perform drip irrigation is to install an underground irrigation system with aboveground drippers poking out near the tree’s root system. A cheaper alternative is to use a garden hose nozzle with a locking system, on a low output setting like mist or soaker, to water your tree! Just don’t forget to pick it up once you’re done! Another solution is to use a bucket of water and poke 2 to 3 tiny holes at the bottom so that the water will slowly release. Be cautious as the holes can be clogged up by debris and, depending on the size of your bucket and tree, you may need to refill the bucket more than once. Lastly, another form of drip irrigation is using a tree watering bag. Garden centers typically sell 20-gallon tree watering bags that can be quickly filled but slowly released. Similar to the bucket, the holes can also get clogged up by debris and will need to be inspected periodically. 

Overall Rating: ★★★★★

Drip irrigation in action!

HOW MUCH WATER FOR A TREE? 

Now that you have learned about the worst and best ways to water a tree, you may be asking yourself “how much should I water my tree?” Well... it depends! The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) does not have set guidelines, and neither does Russell Tree Experts. A general rule of thumb is somewhere around 5 to 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (dbh). Various factors can affect the exact volume such as water runoff, evaporation rate depending on if it’s sunny or hot versus cold and cloudy, competition from nearby grass and plants, level of tree establishment, amount of precipitation during the week, and your patience and commitment to watering. For instance, a newly installed 2-inch dbh tree in the summer at full sun may need 20 gallons of water while an established, more mature 10-inch dbh tree on a cloudy, fall day may only need 50 gallons of water. 

WHEN TO WATER A TREE? 

The best time of day to water a tree is during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures are generally cooler, and the sun is less prevalent, leading to reduced evaporation and leaf scorch. Wet leaves overnight have a risk of fungal and disease issues while wet leaves in the middle of a sunny day have a risk of leaf scorch.  

In terms of frequency... it depends! A newly planted container tree will benefit from watering every 2 to 3 days and a newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree once per week for at least the first 2 to 3 growing seasons (spring through fall). A large, mature tree may not need to be watered except in periods of extended drought and can water itself through its large root system or natural rain. During sunny, summer weather, all trees can benefit from tree watering every few days. During colder, winter weather after first frost, trees may not need to be watered at all except in fringe cases such as planting an evergreen tree late in the fall. If you want the broadest rule of thumb that comes with many exceptions and caveats, water your tree 3 to 4 times per week in the summer, 2 to 3 times per week in the fall and spring, and 0 times per week during most winters, adjusting this based on the tree’s root establishment, weekly temperature, and level of precipitation during a given week. 

WHERE TO WATER A TREE? 

The answer to this question does NOT depend! The best location to water a tree is in a circle around the tree between the trunk and canopy drip line. The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. In other words, if you look straight up and do not see any leaves, you are past the canopy drip line. There is a common misconception to water a tree right next to the trunk a few inches away. Although this is not a bad location, a tree can take in water from even further away and water should be as uniformly distributed as possible to promote healthy and outward root growth! 

The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day.

CONCLUSION 

And there you have it, the essentials of what you need to know about watering a tree! The only other tip I recommend is to install a 2- to 4-inch-deep tree mulch ring around the tree to help conserve water for the tree. A tree mulch ring has a plethora of other benefits such as increased nutrient availability, better temperature regulation, decreasing the risk of stem-girdling roots, outcompeting with other plants, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and increased visual aesthetics! Just be cautious of piling mulch near the root flare/base of the tree! The mulch ring should be level, and the root flare should be exposed. As my friend and coworker TJ Nagel, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®, once said, “watering is the single most importance maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.” For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, including deep root irrigation, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

3 Tree Tips From an RTE Insider!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
July 17, 2025

I'm fortunate to have a partner that loves trees as much as I do. When I met Annette working in the nursery industry twenty-ish years ago I just thought she was cute, she made me laugh and I admired the way she helped people and animals. Over the years, Annette and I have worked together in various gardens, we have spoken together at gardening events, cared for the same clients and we have both become professional arborists. We share a passion for the outdoors, seeing new trees in new places and collecting new plants for our garden when we discover them. In short, she gets me.   

Through her gardening and consulting business, Annette has always proudly promoted responsible tree care and the work that Russell Tree Experts performs. When an opportunity came up this Spring to hire a seasonal Tree Wellness technician, I (somewhat jokingly) suggested that she apply and see things from the other side. She got the position and we got to work together once again! Over the last four months our dinner chats and evening conversations have been filled with observations, debate and education. Listening to her learn the industry was nostalgic and reminded me of why I got into the tree care industry. Annette is back to running her own business again but she will always be a part of Russell Tree Experts. Here are a few things she wanted every client to know -  written in her own words.  

1. Mulch Madness!

Don't smother your plants. In no less than 90% of the yards I visited, mulch was overdone—especially around the base of trees and shrubs. While mulch has its benefits, piling it too high can actually harm your plants.

Here's why: the root flare—the area where the trunk meets the roots—needs air and water to function properly. When mulch is too thick or pressed against the base, roots may grow upward into the mulch in search of oxygen and moisture. This can prevent them from accessing nutrients in the soil, leading to common problems like chlorosis (yellowing leaves), less vigor. Please don't forget this is important
with shrubs as well.

A visual tip: If a tree looks like a telephone pole going into the ground, it's a sign the root flare is buried—and that's worth checking.

An example of a mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed root flare.

2. Not All Fertilizers Are Created Equal

One thing that stood out to me was the quality of the fertilizer used by RTE. Unlike synthetic fertilizers that are heavy in quick-release nitrogen (which can cause fast, weak growth that attracts pests), RTE uses their own naturally composted blend. This organic fertilizer acts more like a soil conditioner—enriching the soil with beneficial microbes, improving its structure, and helping roots absorb nutrients more efficiently. It's a smarter, long-term approach to plant health.

An irrigation lance used to fertilize trees below ground level.

3. A Culture That Cares (About Plants and People)

Even after moving on from the role, I still think about how impressed I am with RTE's company culture. From top leadership and gifted mechanics to the crews in the field, the commitment to doing things right was clear.

Each week, the team holds mandatory "tailgate meetings" focused on safety, plant science, the latest climbing techniques and equipment care—something I haven't seen elsewhere in my 35 years of working in horticulture. I'm not in the habit of suggesting to someone to switch companies if they are already happy with the relationship they have with their current tree company, but my third tip is that I am even more confident referring RTE after working on the inside to homeowners or someone who wants a cool career in tree work than I already was as an observer. It is important to choose a tree company who cares about safety and determining the best method of care for the health and vigor of your trees. I'm also grateful to have a platform on which to share my observations.

And yes, I was genuinely proud to drive around in that beautifully wrapped truck with the crabapple blossoms and have so many opportunities to speak with many of you.

One of our multiple plant healthcare trucks used to help maintain and preserve trees across central Ohio!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

The ULTIMATE Tree Planting Guide!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 29, 2025

- - - -

We’re in the middle of the growing season, which means tree planting time! There are generally 3 commonly sized trees: Tree saplings, container trees, and balled-and-burlapped trees! In today’s article we’ll be discussing how to best plant each of these 3 tree types. With the focus being on installation, we’re not going in-depth on tree selection, planting site selection, or post-installation watering, maintenance, and protection, but articles written by my fellow coworkers and ISA Certified Arborists® on all these supplemental topics will be linked further in this article!  

The first 3 steps for planting any type of tree that I’ll briefly acknowledge but skip past will be to: 

1. SELECT YOUR TREE PLANTING SITE! -> [More Info]

2. SELECT A TREE THAT’S COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR SELECTED PLANTING SITE!

3. NOTIFY YOUR LOCAL UTILITY PROTECTION SERVICE! Call before you dig! It might feel like an unnecessary hassle to begin with, but it’s free and a significantly smaller headache compared to hitting an underground line. In Ohio, it’s OUPS and can be contacted by visiting oups.org. Nationally, you can call 811 to speak with your local utility protection service company! -> [More Info]

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Since a tree sapling’s root system is so small, bare root trees are the smallest, cheapest, and easiest trees to purchase and plant! Another benefit is that they will establish their roots to the planting site easier than a container or balled-and-burlapped tree, making it less susceptible to leaning or falling over during high winds compared to the other 2 tree types. Some disadvantages to consider are that it will take more time to reach full maturity, and they are harder to spot by a distracted lawn mower operator. Somehow both my dad and my uncle mowed over a tree sapling by accident.  

Steps

1. SOAK YOUR TREE! Soak your tree sapling in water for 5-7 minutes to thoroughly moisten the sapling’s root system.  

2. DETERMINE YOUR HOLE SIZE! Measure the sapling’s base of the root to its root flare (meeting point between the roots and the trunk) to determine the depth of your hole.  

3. DIG YOUR HOLE! Your tree hole needs to only be as deep as the measurement between the root flare and bottom of the tree sapling’s roots. Regarding width, a 1 feet diameter circle is more than enough.  

4. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS! Double check your hole’s depth and width! Adjust if necessary. To test this, place your sapling in the hole and ensure that the root flare is equal to the surrounding soil level. Do not cover or bury the root flare. It should be above ground level.  

5. PLACE YOUR TREE IN THE HOLE! Make sure the tree is straight and not leaning. Ensure that the root flare is visible at or slightly above ground level. 

6. BACKFILL THE SOIL! Place the dug-up soil back into the hole. Lightly compact the soil as you begin to reach ground level. You can use your feet/shoes to compact the soil around the tree sapling. Optionally, a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch is recommended for numerous reasons such as increased water retention, minimizing temperature fluctuations, increased trunk protection, having less grass to mow, and subjectively, improved aesthetics and curb appeal. 

7. WATER THE TREE! Lightly water the soil (or mulch) around your tree to add moisture back into the surrounding ground. This is especially important when planting saplings in dry or summer-like conditions.  

8. AND... DONE! Voila, your tree sapling has been installed!  

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STEPS

1. DETERMINE THE SIZE OF YOUR HOLE! The hole should be a few inches wider than the tree’s pot, but 1-4 inches shallower than the height of the soil in the tree’s pot. This height difference is because it’s very common for a tree’s root flare (the boundary between the root and the trunk) to be buried in a nursery pot, which is no good. This will be addressed in an upcoming step. The overall shape of the hole should be half of a sphere with its deepest portion being in the middle. 

2. DIG YOUR HOLE! If you’re digging next to grass and you care about your lawn, I would recommend placing your dug-up grass in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. 

3. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS! Once you’re done digging, double check your work! Again, the hole should be a few inches wider than the tree’s pot, and the depth should be 1-4 inches below the soil’s height. Make adjustments if necessary. 

   Many of my fellow ISA Certified Arborists®, including myself, like to plant trees 1-3 inches above the surrounding ground level as trees commonly settle over the next couple of years. This is to also ensure that the root flare is exposed and not buried, which can cause stem girdling roots. 

4. SLICE THE ROOT BALL 4 TIMES! Take the tree out from the pot and slide 4 straight, evenly distributed lines across the root ball every 90 degrees. This will break up and loosen both the dirt and roots which will help minimize the risk of stem girdling roots and encourage outward growth. Optionally, you can also clean up and remove any small or entangled surface roots. 

5. TEST FIT YOUR TREE! Place your tree in the hole! Triple check that the hole’s shape, depth, width, and height is adequate. As mentioned earlier, if the root flare is 1-3 inches above ground level, this is perfectly fine as the soil will likely settle over time. Make adjustments if needed. 

6. BACKFILL YOUR HOLE! It’s perfectly fine to use the existing, dug-up soil, but optionally, you can mix the dirt with a soil amendment like compost, manure, or topsoil in a 1:1 ratio to add more nutrients into the ground. If you want to save yourself some future weeding, I strongly recommend taking the time to remove any grass from the dug-up soil. As you’re backfilling, break up any chunks of dirt to obtain a fine, porous texture to improve water infiltration and gas exchange. Additionally, observe the tree’s lean or lack thereof to ensure that it is still straight and plumb. The tree can easily lean during the backfilling process. Compact the soil every couple of inches with your hands or feet to eliminate any large air pockets. You want to aim for a compaction level between large air pockets that you can hide your penny collection in, and construction-grade compacted soil where little air and water can transfer through. 

   I strongly recommend adding a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch in a ring around the tree. The mulch should match the surrounding grade and not be piled into a mound or volcano-like shape. The radius can be as small as 2 feet wide or as wide as the canopy drip line (the farthest point that leaves or branches extend out to). There are numerous benefits such as reducing the risk of stem girdling roots, less resource competition with nearby grass and above-ground plants, increased water retention, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and subjectively, increased visual aesthetics and curb appeal. 

7. WATER THE SOIL! You want the soil (or mulch) to be dark brown and saturated with water. Avoid any sitting or pooling water. 

8. PRUNE YOUR TREE! Perform a few, minor pruning cuts. Look for any branches that are rubbing, crossing, or dead and prune them back to the base of a union. 

9. REMOVE TAGS! If there are any tags on the tree and you haven’t removed them already, now’s the time to take them out! 

10. AND VOILA, DONE! Congratulations, your new tree is now installed! 

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STEPS

1. DETERMINE THE SIZE OF YOUR TREE HOLE! Measure your tree so you can determine the size of your hole. For a balled-and-burlapped tree, the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) recommends a hole diameter 1.5 to 2 times larger than the diameter of the root ball. So, if for example your root ball is 3 feet wide, then a hole diameter of 4.5 to 6 feet is recommended. Regarding hole depth, it should be approximately as deep as the root flare of your tree. It is important to note that many balled-and-burlapped trees are already too deep within their own root ball and wire cage. Do not assume that the top of the root ball is the trunk flare. My experience is that more often than not, I have to remove a few inches of soil from above the trunk flare at the time of planting. Many of my fellow ISA Certified Arborist® coworkers and myself like to even plant the tree with the root flare 1-3 inches above ground level to compensate for the soil settling over time. The worst outcome would be for the root flare to be buried and/or below ground level. If the trunk flare is below grade, the tree will be planted too deep and will be more prone to stem girdling roots, reduced vigor, and will become more vulnerable to pests and disease. It is perfectly acceptable if the root flare is slightly above ground level and not perfectly in line with the surrounding grade. 

2. DIG YOUR HOLE! This is definitely the most laborious step, so make sure you have water nearby and you take breaks as needed! Have a game plan for what to do with any dug-up soil and grass. One idea could be to place the top portion of grass into a yard waste bag and place the below-ground soil on a tarp or wheelbarrow. The nearby grassy lawn will thank you for not placing dirt directly on top of it. 

3. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK! Once you’re done digging, double check your measurements! Again, the hole should be 1.5 to 2 times wider than the root ball’s diameter and the depth in the center should be the measurement from the bottom of the root ball to the tree’s root flare. You can be 1 to 3 inches below this measurement in order to ensure that the tree is planted with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Make adjustments to your hole if needed. 

4. TEST FIT YOUR TREE! Place your tree in the center of the hole. Make sure it’s stable before letting go and taking a step back. You can backfill a tiny portion of soil and tamp it against the root ball with your feet. Trust me, I’ve seen a few trees fall down and have broken limbs during this step.  After the tree is standing upright in the hole, verify it is positioned correctly: centered, upright and plumb, and at a height where the trunk flare is at or slightly above the surrounding grade. Make adjustments to your hole if necessary. You may or may not have to take the tree of out of the hole. 

5. STABLIZE YOUR TREE! If you’re satisfied with the general shape of your hole and with the general placement of your tree, stabilize your tree a little more to prepare for the next step. Backfill some of the dug-up soil to the bottom of the root ball and tamp it down with your feet once more until the tree feels relatively secure and in-place. The tree may move during this, so when you’re finished, triple check your work and make adjustments if necessary. 

6. REMOVE THE TWINE, TOP 1/3 OF BURLAP, AND TOP 1/3 OF WIRE CAGE. Remove the twine around the trunk, remove the top third of the burlap and remove the top third (approximately) of the wire cage. The purpose of removing these materials is to prevent damage to the trunk and buttress roots as they grow over time. Removing the twine, burlap and wire cage is the subject of much debate amongst landscape contractors, tree producers, and arborists. In an effort to be brief, my recommendation to remove the top third of the wire cage, the exposed burlap (approximately the top third), and the twine is a balance between ensuring root ball stability, new tree survivability, and planning for the long term health of the tree over the next hundred years. There may be some instances, like planting new evergreen trees in exposed/windy sites where it may be acceptable to leave the entire wire cage, burlap and twine intact for one full growing season before returning to remove it later. You will likely need some type of wire cutter or saw to remove a portion of the wire cage, so be sure to wear proper PPE including safety glasses and gloves! This step is also an annoying opportunity for the tree to shift around, so quadruple check the tree’s placement and make adjustments if necessary once you are done!  

   Optional: If you’re planting a tree in summer or drought-like conditions, I would recommend watering the hole to add moisture back into the soil. You only need to add enough water to turn the soil dark brown, avoid any pools of water. 

7. BACKFILL THE SOIL! You can use only the dug-up soil if you’d like, but you can also optionally mix in a 1:1 ratio of dug-up soil and soil amendments such as compost, manure, or topsoil. It’s your choice and the level of necessity will vary from planting site to planting site. If you want to reduce resource competition for the tree and save yourself some weeding, you can filter out any grass you find during this process. As you’re backfilling, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets with your hands or feet but be careful not to overly compact soil as pore space is needed for water and oxygen. You don’t want air pockets where you can hide your penny collection, but you also don’t want construction-grade compacted soil. 

8. MULCH AROUND THE TREE! Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch in a circular ring around the trunk of the tree. The width can vary from options such as 1 foot wide, as wide as the dug-up grass, or as wide as the canopy drip line of the tree (the farthest point that leaves or branches extend out to). Avoid covering the root flare of the tree. The mulch should match the surrounding grade of the planting site and not be mounded up in the shape of a volcano. Mulch does a great job of retaining moisture around newly planted trees in addition to reducing competition from weeds, regulating soil temperatures, reducing soil compaction and adding nutrients to the soil. Linked is my previous ARBOR ED™ article on how to create a tree mulch ring including all of its benefits! 

9. WATER AROUND YOUR TREE! Watering a newly planted tree correctly is as important as selecting the right tree. Watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the establishment and success of planting a new tree. The best way to water a tree is slowly and deeply so that water is trickling down into the root ball of the tree and not washing away into the lawn. A newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree should be watered at the time of planting and then once a week until temperatures are consistently below freezing. Watering in this same fashion should resume when the tree breaks dormancy and leafs out the following spring. It generally takes 2 - 3 growing seasons before a balled-and-burlapped tree is established and can fend for its own water. Establishment could take longer with larger trees. For more information on watering, see my coworker, ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel’s ARBOR ED™ article on proper tree watering!  

10. PRUNE YOUR TREE! If a tree could only be pruned once in its life, pruning at planting is the time to do so. The overall goal of pruning at planting is to improve the structure of the canopy, to remove crossing and broken limbs, or to reduce/remove upright limbs that might be competing to be the central dominant leader. Note: It is equally important not to over-prune a newly planted tree, as having the appropriate amount of leaf area in the canopy next season is essential to maintaining good health and vigor. 

11. REMOVE TAGS AND ENJOY YOUR TREE! Your new tree is now planted! Enjoy it! If there are any tags on the tree and you have not already removed them, you can remove them now!  

12. OPTIONAL: PROTECT YOUR TREE! Protect your tree from mechanical damage. This step may not be necessary for every newly planted tree. If you live in an urban area without deer and have large, generous planting beds free of turf, you can likely skip this step. When planting in rural areas, TJ often recommends using some sort of deer protection to protect the trunk of trees until they have surpassed 8-10 inches in diameter. You can use a 4-foot-tall wire fencing cut into a 7-8-foot length and then then wrap it around the tree. In addition to protecting the trunk, the fencing also makes it more difficult for deer to feed on lower limbs. Trunk guards or corrugated drainpipe can also work to protect tree trunks, but they must be removed before the heat and humidity of the summer. I also recommend trunk protection for folks that have trees in areas where turf is tightly managed with large, fast-moving mowers and string trimmers. 

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In Conclusion…

Now that your tree has been planted, the next, most important step will be to properly water it! Watering can vary drastically based on tree size and season. If I had to best explain it in 1 sentence, it would be to water a tree slowly through some type of drip irrigation system (such as a tree watering bag, low pressure hose, or watering bucket) in the morning or evening (to minimize evaporation) anywhere from every day to every other day (depending on the season and amount of sunlight the tree receives daily). Other maintenance recommendations that can be optional or highly recommended depending on the tree and planting site would be to create a tree mulch ring (if you have not done so already), add deer protection, and/or stake the tree! Below are articles on some of these mentioned topics!  

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Giving Away 1000 Free Trees for Arbor day 2025!

Happy early Arbor Day! Arbor Day is this Friday, April 25th, 2025, and it is a holiday to celebrate trees and encourage everyone to plant more trees!

This Arbor Day, Russell Tree Experts will be giving away 1,000 FREE tree saplings to the public! Just stop by our Westerville office or Birdie Books (Uptown Westerville) to pick up your free tree saplings! There will be various trees of different growing speeds, mature sizes, sun preferences, and notable fruits, flowers, and foliage colors to choose from:

1. Bur Oak

2. Eastern Redbud

3. Tuliptree

4. American Persimmon

5. Shagbark Hickory

6. Black Gum

ISA Certified Arborists® will be available at pick-up for any help picking out your tree and to discuss the do’s and don’ts when planting your tree(s) at home! If visiting Birdie Books, also check out their Arbor Day book collection to learn more about our favorite thing…. TREES! We’re excited to see you soon and plant happy trees!

Date:
Friday, April 25th, 2025

Time:
10:00 AM to 4:00 PM

Locations:

Russell Tree Experts: 3427 E Dublin Granville Rd, Westerville, Ohio 43081

Birdie Books: 74 N State St. Westerville, Ohio 43081

TREE PLANTING RELATED VIDEOS

10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
April 17, 2025

Flowering trees can be a great addition to any landscape. There is an unlimited range of options to add that splash of color to your property. The list is very large so I will pick 10 of my favorites that I have planted over my 35+ year career as an ISA Certified Arborist®. Flowering trees not only add a variety of colors, but additionally fragrance and many environmental benefits to pollinators, birds, and more! The timing of the blooms can be spread over several months with proper selections. There are many options among these genera, but I will concentrate on my favorites and best performers. The trees discussed in this article will stay in the small-to-medium size range.

1. Red Buckeye

I will start with one of my personal favorites, the red buckeye. Blooming in the April to May timeframe, this tall red blossom display is hard to beat in your landscape. This ovular shaped tree will produce red upright panicles that average 4 to 8 inches in length. This will make for a great specimen tree in your yard! If you’re an Ohio State fan, they will eventually produce buckeyes as well!

Common Name: Red Buckeye

Scientific Name: Aesculus pavia

Mature Height: 10 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 10 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with red flowers

Other noteworthy characteristics: Brown buckeye nuts. Brown leaves in the fall.

2. Flowering Dogwood

Dogwoods can be one of the most popular trees in central Ohio landscapes. There are many varieties which cover a wide color spectrum, mainly whites, yellows, pinks, and even some reds. These are also trees that can have all season interest due to their bark character, showy fruit, and vibrant fall color display. Cornelian cherry dogwood will be one of the first trees to bloom in the spring with small yellow flowers, but the species I prefer is flowering dogwood with its white spring bracts.

Common Name: Flowering Dogwood

Scientific Name: Cornus florida

Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves in the spring with white flowers.

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Red to purple fall color. Persistent red fruit in the winter.

3. Okame Cherry

Another of my favorite early flowering trees would be the Okame cherry. This tree typically blooms in March with vibrant pink flowers. This too is a compact tree that should stay under 25 feet tall. This tree was made famous with its display in Washington DC. It has a mild fragrance and attracts many pollinators.

Common Name: Okame Cherry

Scientific Name: Prunus x okame

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Pink flowers

4. Allegheny Serviceberry

Another tree with all season appeal would be the serviceberry. There are a few species and many cultivated varieties of serviceberry, but I prefer the Allegheny serviceberry. It produces early spring white flowers followed by edible fruit and finally, brilliant fall color!

Common Name: Allegheny Serviceberry

Scientific Name: Amelanchier laevis

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with white flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Reddish orange fall color

5. PRAIRIFIRE CRABAPPLE

The crabapple is another longtime favorite among central Ohio landscapes. There are more varieties than I can count so I will just list a few of my favorites. If you are looking for white flowers, you cannot go wrong with Adirondack. My favorite pink choice would be prairiefire, with strawberry parfait coming in a close second.

Common Name: Prairifire Crabapple

Scientific Name: Malus x ‘Prairifire’

Mature Height: 15 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Spring maroon leaves with pink flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Green leaves with red veins in the summer, bronze leaves in the fall

6. Saucer Magnolia

Next on my list are magnolias. Once again, there are too many varieties to list, but the longtime favorites are the saucer magnolia, which has pink flowers, and the star magnolia which has white flowers. The saucer magnolia typically blooms around late March to early April and puts on quite the show! If you are looking for fragrance, make sure you add a sweetbay magnolia to your landscape!

Common Name: Saucer Magnolia

Scientific Name: Magnolia x soulangeana

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with pink flowers

7. Eastern Redbud

Another early blooming favorite that is being produced with several new cultivated varieties is the eastern redbud! They are being developed with a variety of leaf colors, variation in bloom color, and growth habit as well, such as weeping. A classic selection that you cannot go wrong with is the straight species of eastern redbud with its beautiful pinkish purple flowers in the spring! This is the early flowering tree that is often seen along the edge of the woods in natural areas as well as in many landscapes. It flowers at a similar time as magnolia trees but is less likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures and Ohio’s wishy-washy weather.

Common Name: Eastern Redbud

Scientific Name: Cercis canadensis

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 35 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green heart-shaped leaves with pinkish purple leaves

8. Washington Hawthorn

One of the later bloomers in the spring would be the Washington Hawthorn. This is another tree that can have all season interest with the white flowers, fragrance, red fruit, and fall color, making this a great selection for your landscape. Its abundant red fruit supports many pollinators, birds, and more!

Common Name: Washington Hawthorn

Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves, white flowers, and red fruit

Other noteworthy characteristics: Orange and scarlet leaves in the fall

9. IVORY SILK JAPANESE TREE LILAC

Next on this list is the ivory silk tree lilac. This is a plant that produces a creamy/white plume, usually long after other trees have bloomed.

Common Name: Ivory Silk Japanese Tree Lilac

Scientific Name: Syringa reticulata

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green leaves with creamy white plumes

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Golden to bronze fall color. Cherry-like bark that is attractive in the winter.

10. American Witch Hazel

Last (or first) on this list is witch hazel! Some witch hazels bloom in early spring such as Jelena and vernal witch hazel, but a personal favorite (and classic) is the American witch hazel. This plant blooms in the fall with beautiful yellow color that persists into winter, sometimes up to early spring.

Common Name: American Witch hazel

Scientific Name: Hamamelis virginiana

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves that turn yellow in the fall and winter

This is just a small list of trees that could add a splash of color to your landscape. With a little research and planning, you can have color, fragrance, fruit, and other interesting characteristics throughout the year! Choose wisely and plan for the mature size of your plants when making selections and picking planting locations.

Please review our other articles on planting, mulching, watering, and other related topics before adding additional trees to your landscape in the coming year. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

The Forest Pansy Redbud!

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
April 10, 2025

Forest pansy redbud leaves in the spring

In our Ohio landscapes, we have several common options for planting trees that reach a small-to-medium size in maturity, including magnolias, crabapples, cherries and Japanese maples. Another tree that fits that size category and is commonly found in many landscapes is the eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). Redbuds are known for their beautiful display of flowers in the early spring, typically before leaves fully emerge. But while the flowers grab our attention, the foliage could be considered fairly typical and undistinguished. One variety of redbud that can stand out for both its flowers and foliage is the forest pansy redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’)! Let's take a closer look at this tree and why it might be a great option for your landscape!

Forest pansy redbud leaves in the fall

The forest pansy redbud is a cultivar (cultivated variety) of eastern redbud. Cultivars, incredibly common among many of our landscape plants from trees to shrubs to perennials, are versions of plants that are not commonly found in nature. This can be a different color of flower, variegated foliage, lack of fruit production, difference in shape or habit, or many other characteristics. In the case of the forest pansy redbud, the striking difference from the normal species is the foliage color. The forest pansy redbud’s leaves emerge in the spring with a purple to burgundy color. As summer approaches and the foliage matures, the color of the leaves can deepen to a dark reddish-purple. In autumn, as the color pigments of the foliage break down, rich yellows and golds appear and contribute to the beauty of the transitioning landscape. As with the normal species of eastern redbud, the forest pansy cultivar also has the much loved clusters of pinkish flowers that emerge directly from the stems prior to the leaves emerging in spring, giving us an early display of color when many other plants still appear to be dormant.

Forest pansy redbud flowers in the spring

Forest pansy redbuds are hardy in USDA zones 5-9, making them a good choice for Ohio. They are generally tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions, but like most trees, prefer some initial amending of the soil if needed for proper soil pH, nutrients, and drainage, as well as ongoing addition of leaf compost or supplemental fertilization for optimal growth. The red pigments in the leaves will be deeper and richer with ample sunlight, so while the tree can tolerate a semi-wooded or shadier setting, substantial shade can create leaves that take on more of a green appearance (as a fun side note - this correlation between sunlight and richness of color generally applies to most plants with variegated or colored foliage!).

Forest pansy redbud info card at Oakland Nursery

The forest pansy redbud is typically free of pests and diseases when properly planted and located in the landscape. It has a mature height of 20 to 25 feet and a mature crown spread of 15 to 20 feet. This makes it a good candidate for planting in front and backyards, where it can grow large enough to provide some shade to a front walkway, south facing window, or backyard patio, but stays small enough to not overtake a home or outcompete adjacent lawn areas or landscape beds for sunlight and water. Because of its striking foliage throughout the growing season, it makes a wonderful specimen tree or focal point in the landscape when planted singly, rather than in groupings.

The forest pansy redbud tree can be a great option for your landscape if you’re looking for a medium sized tree that’s tolerant of a wide range of conditions. As always, proper planting is essential for the long term health and success of any tree. Contact us if you need any guidance, referrals, or recommendations for proper tree planting, including species selection, location, and site requirements. And as always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Fire Blight: More Than Just a Bad Sight!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
March 27, 2025

The Basics

Fire blight is a bacterial infection lethal to members of the Rosaceae family, which includes rose, pear, cherry, apple, serviceberry, hawthorn, and quince. While it can't be effectively cured, preventative measures have prolonged the lives of infected plants. Most importantly, disease-resistant cultivars have greatly reduced die-off rates.

What Does Fire Blight Look Like?

As the name suggests, plants affected by fire blight appear burnt. When daytime temperatures rise above 65 degrees, leaves begin to wilt, and new stems become dry and brown. Soon, whole twigs darken, and often curl into a distinctive 'shepherd's crook'.

 Fruits turn black, and are “mummified” in place. Eventually, entire branches canker and ooze. At this point, the bacteria has spread to all parts of the tree, including the root system. There are fungal pathogens and weather-related injuries with similar visuals, so tissue samples should be sent to a lab before conducting treatment.

Shepherd's Crook

Blackened, mummified fruits

Canker (Source: Ohioline)

Where Does It Come From?

Erwinia amylovora, the bacterial strain causing fire blight symptoms, can be spread by air, water, and insect and human activity. It can enter a host plant in several ways. When flowers begin to open, air and waterborne strains find their way in to the flower's reproductive organs. As pollinators visit infected flowers, they spread the bacteria to uninfected flowers. Unsealed pruning cuts, broken branches, and even holes made by sucking insects, like aphids, are other paths into the tree. As the disease progresses to the point of bark canker, the cankers themselves are entry points, and the ooze seeping out of them attracts additional insect spreaders.

Humans distribute the bacteria when they cut or move affected wood, fruit, or leaves - just as germs linger on door handles, fire blight remains alive and mobile on all living tissue and the tools used to handle it. Deer and other herbivores further distribute fire blight by feeding.

Wilted leaves with a burnt color is a symptom of fire blight.

How Bad is It?

Bad. It spreads rapidly, mutates easily, and is almost always fatal. Young infected trees can die in a single season. Healthy, established trees being managed can hang on for many years, but still typically die because of the infection. While resistant cultivars have largely eliminated the death of entire properties, even today, infected plants are almost always in the express-lane to removal.

Can It Be Treated?

Not well. The only highly effective defense is planting cultivars resistant to infection. At this time, all pear and quince cultivars are somewhat susceptible. The popular apple cultivars Fuji, Honeycrisp, and Red Delicious show strong resistance to fire blight. For crabapples, 'Prairiefire', and 'Golden Raindrops' are highly resistant, while 'Autumn Brilliance' is a resistant serviceberry tree. No popular flowering cherry varieties are at high risk.

Branches infected by fire blight should be cautiously removed. Tools must be disinfected afterwards.

The second-best protection is proper cultural practices. Fire blight thrives in moisture and humidity, so plants in full sun with good airflow and well draining soil are less prone to infection. Proper irrigation is critical. Branches displaying fire blight symptoms should be cautiously removed.

Cuts must be made at least 10 inches below the first visibly infected branch portion. Tools must be disinfected with isopropyl alcohol or bleach solutions after every cut. Cut material must be collected and discarded properly. Pruning healthy tissue for clearance or fruit production should be kept to a minimum and cuts should be kept as small as possible. High-nitrogen fertilizers, like those used on turf, should be avoided to encourage cut wounds to seal over, rather than sprout.    

 Are There Chemical Controls?

There are many, but none are particularly good. The lowest-level chemical intervention is repeated spray applications of neem or horticultural oil during flowering. The viscous oils have shown slight improvements in infection resistance by clogging the openings airborne bacteria use to enter flower sex organs. They may only be used preventatively on healthy trees and can onlytreat as high as the applicator's spray system allows.

Leaves infected by fire blight

Repeated antibiotic spray applications in early spring are a slightly more effective option. They can be used preventatively, and to delay spread in already diseased trees. Unfortunately, applying these chemicals multiple times is often more expensive than replacement.. Worse, the erwiniaamylovora bacteria can develop resistance rapidly unless many different chemicals are cycled, driving up costs further. In my professional experience, the only somewhat effective chemical control is a trunk-injectedantibiotic. This once-each-spring application is also expensive, but may stave off the advance of infection for 5+ years.

 Conclusion

While still deadly to susceptible hosts, the development of fire blight resistant cultivars has greatly reduced the rate of loss of some our favorite ornamental and fruit tree species. Planting in appropriate locations and improving pruning and irrigation practices are more effective and far cheaper than chemical controls. Submitting samples to a plant diagnostic laboratory is the only true way to confirm a fire blight infection. If you suspect fire blight is present in your trees, please call our local office at (614)-895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote to request a free quote from one of our ISA Certified Arborists®!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!

The 5 Steps to Become an ISA Certified Arborist®!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 27, 2025

Have you ever wondered how to become an ISA Certified Arborist®? To first answer this question, it’s probably good to know what an arborist is and what the acronym ISA means. An arborist is a professional who practices arboriculture and the study, management, and cultivation of trees, shrubs, and other woody plants. ISA is the International Society of Arboriculture, a non-profit organization that serves the tree care industry by promoting the professional, proper practice of arboriculture, developing arborists’ skills and expertise, and educating the public about trees, their benefits, and how to properly care for them. ISA offers multiple credentials, one of which is the ISA Certified Arborist® credential. ISA certifies that these arborists have a minimum of 3 years’ full-time experience in tree care and that they have passed the 200-question arboriculture exam focusing on 10 different categories of trees and tree work. Obtaining the ISA Certified Arborist® credential is a strong indication that an arborist is dedicated, knowledgeable, experienced, and caring when it comes to trees. To become an ISA Certified Arborist®, there are 5 general steps! 

1. DEVELOP AN INTEREST IN ARBORICULTURE 

Planting trees at our office!

The first step to becoming an ISA Certified Arborist® is to develop an interest in arboriculture such as tree species, tree identification, growing habits, tree structure, planting sites, diseases, pests, soil science, tree planting, tree preservation strategies, tree removal techniques, plant healthcare, working with trees around construction, tree risk assessment, safe practices, urban forestry, and so much more!  

2. HAVE 3 YEARS OF FULL-TIME ARBORICULTURAL EXPERIENCE 

ISA requires that testing candidates have a minimum of 3 full-time years of arboricultural work experience, formal education, or a combination of both. One example could be finishing your junior year of college at a university majoring in forestry or horticulture. Another example could be working for a tree care company for 3 years as a ground worker, climber, crew leader, plant healthcare technician, or sales manager. Other rapid-fire examples of practical arboricultural experience could be working at a nursery, landscape company, municipality, state forestry agency, utility company, an academic arboriculture department or extension program, a tree consultancy, or pest control provider. Regardless, documentation of experience with related references is required for verification. 

 3. STUDY FOR THE EXAM 

A very common guide that people use when studying for their ISA certification!

Now it’s time to study for the ISA Certified Arborist® Exam! Even though ISA requires applicants to have a minimum of 3 years of full-time arboriculture experience/education, you can study in the meantime so that you’re ready to take the exam as soon as you have 3 years under your belt. In terms of what to study, ISA recommends the 4th Edition Arborists’ Certification Study Guide. This is what I and almost everyone at Russell Tree Experts used. ISA has a practice exam on their website set up in the exact same fashion as the actual exam. There are also free resources online such as lessons on YouTube, Quizlet flashcards, and sample questions online. On Facebook, there are various groups pertaining to the ISA Certified Arborist® exam where you can ask questions, study together, and learn from one another! One other resource is the Certified Arborist Review sessions at the Ohio Tree Care Conference. There is an approximate 1-hour session for each of the 16 chapters in the study guide led by different ISA Certified Arborists® that I found incredibly beneficial! 

Duration of study is different for everyone. I know coworkers who read the book in less than a month and passed the test on the first try, but I also know coworkers who periodically studied over the course of 3 years and then passed the test as soon as they were eligible to apply. Personally, I studied approximately 1 page per day throughout 2024 since the study guide is 369 pages long, reviewed all of January 2025, and then took the test in February! 

 4. APPLY FOR AND SCHEDULE THE EXAM 

Once you are eligible and feel confident in your studies, it’s now time to apply for and schedule the ISA Certified Arborist® exam! First, you’ll want to visit ISA’s website, create an account, and then become a member of your local chapter. Central Ohio’s local chapter is Ohio Chapter ISA. Afterwards, apply for testing eligibility. This is when ISA will ask for documentation of 3 years’ work or educational experience in arboriculture. Once you’re approved, you can schedule your exam. 

Ohio Chapter ISA: Ohio’s local ISA chapter.

For the exam, you can choose between a computer-based exam or a paper-based exam. Both require you to drive to a proctored exam site. Both exams are in the same format, cover the same topics, and are at the same difficulty level. Advantages of the computer-based exam is that there are more testing sites, potentially resulting in a shorter drive in most cases, being able to know your results immediately compared to waiting up to 6 weeks to know the results of a paper-based exam, and to save time clicking your answer as opposed to filling in 200 bubbles on a scantron with the paper-based exam. Two potential downsides of a computer-based exam are that it is costlier than the paper-based exam due to a $125 administrative fee and it is a little more tedious to click back-and-forth between questions compared to flipping the physical exam book pages. Advantages of the paper-based exam are if the testing site is closer to you than the computer-based exam testing site, being able to physically flip back-and-forth more quickly between questions, and having something physical and not digital to look at for 3.5 hours in case eye strain is a concern. 

Regardless of which exam you choose, you will need to select the specific testing date and location, submit an application to take the test, and then receive approval before you are officially enrolled. At the time of writing this ARBOR ED™ article, the exam fee ranges from $170 to $405 depending on your membership status and which testing option you choose. 

 5. TAKE THE EXAM 

Now it’s time to take the exam! The ISA Certified Arborist® exam comprises of 200 multiple-choice questions. Each question has 4 possible answers. There are no “all of the above” answer options, no multiple correct answers, and no images throughout the entire exam. There are 3.5 hours allotted to complete the exam. In order to pass, a 76% or higher is required. The exam content material is divided into 10 domains of knowledge: 

1. Tree Biology (11%) 

2. Identification and Selection (9%) 

3. Soil Management (7%) 

4. Installation and Establishment (9%) 

5. Pruning (14%) 

6. Diagnosis and Treatment (9%) 

7. Trees and Construction (9%) 

8. Tree Risk (11%) 

9. Safe Work Practices (15%) 

10. Urban Forestry (6%) 

From personal experience and chatting with multiple coworkers, 3.5 hours is plenty of time to take the exam. One tip is that some questions can provide context clues that can help answer a different question in the exam, so do not feel discouraged to skip a question and come back to it later. There should be at least 30 to 60 additional minutes to revisit unanswered questions or review unsure questions.  

MAINTAINING YOUR ISA CERTIFIED ARBORIST® CREDENTIAL 

Some of our fellow climbing ISA Certified Arborists® in a tree!

Once you’ve passed your exam, congratulations! You’re officially an ISA Certified Arborist®! Your certification is valid for 3 years. To maintain your certification, you can either retake the exam again OR you can earn 30 Continuing Education Credits (CEUs) before your certification expires. CEUs can be earned through opportunities such as safety trainings or meetings, podcasts and quizzes, e-learning modules, webinars, workshops, and/or conferences. The number of CEUs will vary depending on the length of opportunity and level of depth. For more information, check out isa-arbor.com.  

In 2022, ISA reported 35,944 ISA Certified Arborists® and 991 ISA Board Certified Master Arborists® worldwide. Russell Tree Experts is proud to have over 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® on staff, 3 of which are ISA Board Certified Master Arborists®. To request a free tree quote, give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

6 Harmful Pruning Methods for Trees

By Enrique Arayata

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 4th, 2025

Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner. 

The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning! 

An example of tree topping.

1. TREE TOPPING

One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues. 

An example of lion tailing.

2. LION TAILING

Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.  

A subtle example of excessive pruning. Note the small amount of interior branches that is uncharacteristic of honeylocust trees.

3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING

Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune. 

4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS

There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.  

Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut. 

Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.

5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS

Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. 

6. UNIDEAL TIMING

Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window. 

~

Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

How to Protect Trees Before, During, & After Heavy Construction!

By Cody Gray
January 23, 2025

What is soil compaction and how can this affect the trees growing on your property? In this article we are going to cover the “do’s” and “don’ts” during the construction process to avoid soil compaction on the property. We’ll also be peeking into soil science as well as ways to regain healthy soil composition.  

Soil compaction is caused when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space. Think of this like making a snowball - as you take a scoop of snow and press it together, it becomes hard and dense. The previously light and fluffy snow is now firm and sheds water. The same phenomenon is true with soil. As these particles are pressed together, air and water become scarce. With reduced pore space, water infiltration is much slower, and drainage becomes increasingly poor and insufficient. In addition to the soil’s inability to move and drain water, the exchange of gases is slowed down significantly. In poorly drained soils, the composition can turn hard and arid, causing a tree’s penetrating roots to struggle in seeking water.  

Compacted Soil

Porous Soil

Wooded lots offer extremely beautiful home sites. However, if approached improperly from start to finish, what could have been a serene place to kick your feet up at the end of a long day can slowly turn into a hazardous environment full of dead and declining trees. It’s no secret that heavy equipment is used to clear plots of land for both residential and commercial purposes. These pieces of equipment are often heavy and can cause substantial damage to the soil composition when extra care is not taken. However, there are ways to protect the trees you desire to keep if you are aware of some basic tree biology. In terms of spread, a tree’s roots mostly occupy the canopy drip line of a tree. The canopy drip line of a tree is the outermost circumference of the tree’s canopy in relation to the ground. A tree’s roots occupy this entire area and often extend two to four times the radius of the drip line. In terms of depth, most tree roots can be found in the first six to twenty-four inches of soil. This is important to know because this is where long-term root damage can occur if proper preventative measures are not taken. 

A video example of a land clearing project for a new construction home. Heavy equipment was used and soil was likely compacted.

When selecting the building site, it is important to choose an area as far away from the preserved trees as possible. However, at times this may not be possible due to the lot layout, construction needs, etc. There are ways to improve the likelihood of saving these trees inside of the construction zone. Setting up a tree protection zone can be accomplished by protecting the drip edge of the tree you plan to save. The idea is to minimize or prevent any travel of heavy equipment over this area to protect the tree’s valuable roots. One of the most effective ways to protect this precious area is by using T-posts, zip ties and a few rolls of orange barrier fence often referred to as a “snow fence”. The first step in this process is to walk out and mark the approximate drip edge of the tree. You can use orange marking paint on the ground if this helps. Next you will need to drive a T-post every four to five feet around the circumference of the drip line. Once you have traced the entire drip line of the tree, you will begin stringing your orange barrier fence and zip-tying it to your T-posts. This process is simple yet effective for keeping people as well as machines away from the root zone. Additionally, this will help limit the potential for damage to the trunk of the tree. If access is an issue and you are unable to successfully barricade the drip edge of the tree, another option is to use some sort of matting. This can be done with many different products. The simplest form of matting is plywood but whatever solution you use, this significantly reduces ground pressure, which reduces the effects of soil compaction.  

Tree Protection Zone!

Following the construction process, it is important to do a final walkthrough to determine if the grade has been changed. Any excess fill that may have been added inside of a tree’s canopy drip line should be minimized or avoided completely. A very small amount of fill used to fill in tiny divots or to lightly level the lawn is okay and unlikely to cause serious damage. A significant amount of excess fill or grade change can cause reduced oxygen and water infiltration for a tree's roots. A tell-tale sign is soil buildup around the root flare of the tree trunk. You can also take before-and-after photos and compare. If excess soil is present, it is important to remove it as soon as possible. The effects of soil compaction are not immediately noticed and often take months or years before it becomes apparent that something may be wrong. Unfortunately, by the time you notice that a tree is in decline, it is likely too late. Some key characteristics to look for include loss of leaves and premature leaf discoloration during the summer months as well as dead and decaying branches. It is not uncommon for one of our ISA Certified Arborists® to inspect a property containing a declining tree due to construction or renovation that occurred months or years in the past. Oftentimes this is discovered through a quick conversation with the property owner or when observing soil that is either compacted or covering a tree trunk’s root flare. 

There are ways to improve soil composition following compaction if it is caught quickly. One of the most effective ways is by using an air-spade. An air spade is a tool that uses compressed air to loosen the soil around the tree’s roots. An arborist will push the tool into the ground around the tree’s root system and force air into the compressed soil, causing the pore space to increase. This is a non-invasive way to expose the roots to much needed water, oxygen, and nutrients. Another simple yet effective way to help with previous soil compaction is to mulch a tree. Removing 2 to 4 inches below ground level and backfilling with porous mulch can minimize the impact of soil compaction. There are also many benefits to mulching beyond just increased pore space.  

Porous (Left) vs. Compacted (Right)

In conclusion, remember to pick a building site that requires as little tree removal as possible. If there is a tree that is in question, it is much easier to remove the tree prior to construction and it will often cost less to do so. Complete a walkthrough with your contractors, express your concerns for the trees you plan on saving, and be certain to create your tree protection zone(s). This will take a little time in the beginning of the project but can end up saving thousands of dollars over the years to come. If you follow these steps and still end up with some soil compaction, don’t fret as there are still options. Reach out to your local arborists and inquire about air spading, tree mulch ring installations, frequent watering, or other plant healthcare options that might be recommended after an inspection. I can assure you that if you take the time in the early stages of the land clearing and construction process, the survival rate of your trees will increase significantly. If you are interested in a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cody Gray I Senior Division Supervisor, Russell Tree Experts

Cody Gray is our Environmental Division Senior Division Supervisor and has been at RTE since 2016. He has worked around trees since 2013. He graduated from Hocking College with a major in forestry and is certified with aerial rescue, EHAT, first aid, CPR, and OSHA30. In his free time, Cody is an avid outdoorsman and enjoys spending time with his family. His favorite tree is the white oak because of their exceptional durability, beautiful grain patterns, and longevity.