How do you become a Certified Arborist?
Have you ever wanted to become a Certified Arborist? The first step is developing an interest in trees: species, habits, ideal growing conditions, diseases, pests, structure, life cycle. An inquisitive mind is a great asset for any arborist. Any question about trees is a good question! Now that your curiosity is piqued, the next step in developing your arboreal skills is finding the answers!
Have you ever wondered what it takes to become a Certified Arborist? The first step is developing an interest in trees: species, habits, ideal growing conditions, diseases, pests, structure, life cycle, and so forth. An inquisitive mind is a great asset for any arborist, and any question about trees is a good question! Now that your curiosity is piqued, the next step in developing your arboreal skills is finding the answers! This can be either formally, in a classroom setting, or informally, from fellow arborists or friends and colleagues, or simply learning as you go along or doing your own research. Developing a good base of tree knowledge is a great tool to have when you are trying to accomplish your goal of becoming a Certified Arborist. We’ve also had plenty of people start working at Russell Tree Experts with only a vague interest in trees or just interested in an environment where you can work outside in the fresh air! Either path is a great start to your journey to becoming a certified arborist.
Once you have some knowledge, what are the next steps? In order to be considered to take the ISA Certified Arborist Exam, you must have at least 3 years of documentable experience in the tree industry; whether this is from a position at Russell Tree Experts or another accredited company or formal education from a College or University. Once this experience is verified, you may submit an application to the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) for them to approve. From there, you can schedule either an in person exam or a computer based exam at a testing facility. You must pass the exam with a 76% or higher to become an ISA Certified Arborist.
During the exam, your knowledge will be tested in the following 10 sections:
Soil Management
Identification and Selection
Installation and Establishment
Safe Work Practices
Tree Biology
Pruning
Diagnosis and Treatment
Urban Forestry
Tree Protection
Tree Risk Management
Once you’ve passed your exam with a 76% or higher, your ISA Certified Arborist certification is valid for three years. To retain this, you must re-certify by either taking the exam again, or earning 30 continuing education units (CEUs) over the course of the three years. You can earn CEUs by attending various conferences with continuing education classes, doing quizzes in monthly Arborist News publications, or signing in and viewing webinars about new or developing tree issues around the country.
I am fortunate to have been able to become an ISA Certified Arborist in 2018 and am glad to have spent my time here at Russell Tree Experts, learning more about trees, every day, than I ever thought possible. This past February I was able to attend the Ohio Tree Care Conference (put on by the Ohio Chapter ISA) and was able to put many faces with many names that I’ve learned over the past few years while earning plenty of CEUs to retain my certification. I feel blessed to have found my tree family and look forward to learning more in the years to come.
Check out isa-arbor.com to learn more about how you can become an ISA Certified Arborist and to apply for your certification visit: ISA Certified Arborist Application Guide
Lindsey Rice | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.
Leave Those Leaves!
Of all of our seasons, I’ve heard more people proclaim their love of fall than any of the others. It marks an end to the uncomfortable heat of summer and traditionally represents a time when we reap the gifts of the harvest and prepare for winter. And for several weeks, our trees also gift us with a wonderful display of color. Everyone has a favorite - the brilliant orange of our native sugar maples, the rich yellow of the non-native maidenhair tree (Ginkgo), the reds, purples, and browns of oaks.
Please note: This article was originally published on 10/16/2020 and was republished on 11/11/2021.
Of all of our seasons, I’ve heard more people proclaim their love of fall than any of the others. It marks an end to the uncomfortable heat of summer and traditionally represents a time when we reap the gifts of the harvest and prepare for winter. And for several weeks, our trees also gift us with a wonderful display of color. Everyone has a favorite - the brilliant orange of our native sugar maples, the rich yellow of the non-native maidenhair tree (Ginkgo), the reds, purples, and browns of oaks.
Fall is a time marked by traditions. And when those beautiful leaves begin to fall, we have another long-standing tradition. We clean them up, put them out at the curb, and praise ourselves for the hard work and tidy-looking yard. In doing so, we avoid being “that neighbor” who doesn’t clean up their leaves, which, with a few windy days, find their way back into everyone else’s yards. By cleaning them up, we also avoid a build-up of debris, moisture, insects, and pests in the outside corners of our homes, fences, yards, etc. There are plenty of reasons why we don’t want to just leave the leaves wherever they fall.
But in cleaning up all of those leaves, we are also inadvertently disrupting a natural process and contributing to a host of very common problems in our landscapes. As mentioned above, fall is the season of harvest. As it turns out, this holds true for our trees as well. Even though they have been manufacturing food for themselves throughout the year by way of photosynthesis, in the fall, the leaves that fall to the ground begin a slow process of decomposition. Eventually, if left in place, they will become organic matter that improves soil structure and provides a wealth of needed nutrition to the root systems of trees. I like to think of this as the tree’s gift of a fall harvest to itself.
One of the most widespread problems that this “clean up” contributes to is the chlorosis that we see in common landscape trees like red maples, pin oaks, and river birches. You don’t have to look very hard to find a red maple or pin oak in an undisturbed wooded area in central Ohio. But you’d be hard pressed to find one in such a natural environment that is struggling with chlorosis. This is because the soil in these areas contains more organic matter, and in turn contains more nutrients and also a lower pH level, which allows the key nutrients associated with chlorosis to be properly absorbed by the tree roots. When we look at it this way, chlorosis is a man-made problem, typically only found in our urban landscapes where we create conditions that aren’t always best for our trees. Some other issues that leaf cleanup can contribute to are general nutrient deficiencies and also surface roots, where roots must grow closer to the surface in an attempt to get more oxygen due to the dense clay-heavy soil that is lacking an adequate amount of organic matter.
So what’s the solution? How do we help provide suitable conditions for our trees without abandoning leaf cleanup and annoying the neighbors? There are a few things we can consider:
#1
Leaf mulching in the lawn
Though this may have limited benefit to a tree’s roots due to the aggressive nature of turf and its ability to successfully compete for water and nutrients, mowing over the leaves instead of raking them will help to return some leaf litter to the yard and possibly increase the amount of organic matter in the soil.
#2
Leave the leaves!
Wherever possible, try to leave the leaves that fall and let them break down over the winter months. Perennial beds located around trees are a great place for this, where you should be considering leaving the dead perennial tops until spring for the same reason. In many urban landscapes, there is unfortunately a limited number of areas in the yard where this is an option, since the expectation is to have neatly mulched beds and crisp bed edges. Whether that approach is right or wrong is largely a matter of opinion, but it definitely does not favor the overall health of our trees.
#3
Reduce the size of the lawn
We recommend that turfgrass is removed from within the drip line of the tree. The leaves that fall each year will then be able to stay within this area, decompose, and provide vital nutrients back to the tree.
In writing this article, I considered titling it “Tear Out That Turf!” instead of “Leave Those Leaves!”. Turf grass is an amazing groundcover that gives us outdoor spaces that we can enjoy in a number of ways. It’s so hardy, we can literally trim it once a week and drive vehicles over it without killing it. Try doing that with just about any other type of plant, and the results won’t be pretty. But along with being hardy, it requires a significant amount of resources. And perhaps more relevant to this article, we can’t leave it covered with leaves and expect it to survive. Trees and grass represent parts of our natural world that are typically separate from one another. Most of the world’s trees grow in communities that we call forests. Grasses are sun-loving plants naturally found in prairies, fields, and meadows where they don’t get buried in leaf litter once a year. Generally speaking, the one place in the world where they are found coexisting is in our yards, artificially so, and with a lot of help from us. One of the best things you can do for your trees is to increase the space around them and under them that is void of turfgrass. This will reduce the amount of competition for water and nutrients, and also allow for a larger area of soil that you can improve with leaf litter or other soil amendments. It’s important to exercise caution if you choose to remove the turf around your trees so as not to damage the roots that may be present immediately underneath. If you decide to go this route but want some help, we offer a service called root-zone invigoration, which uses high-pressured air to remove turf and cultivate the soil without any mechanical damage to the delicate root system. This is often done for a specific reason related to a tree’s health, but it is also one of the best ways to increase the turf-free zone around a tree.
IN CLOSING…
I’m confident that no lawn care company ever has or ever would write an article about leaving leaves and getting rid of turfgrass, but as an arborist, I'm probably biased towards the trees. Many of the tree-related issues that occur in our urban landscapes are a result of the conditions we create. Allowing for a more natural approach while stilling doing our part to maintain the property should be something we all consider. As always, give us a call or email us with any questions. Just not questions about your lawn, we’ll probably tell you to tear out that turf!
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
What's Going on with My Oak? Part 2
Earlier this year, we shared an article that highlighted two issues that were tied to recent weather patterns and had many homeowners concerned about their oak trees - one was an insect (Oak Shothole Leafminer) and another was a fungal pathogen (Oak Anthracnose). Combined, they made for unsightly leaves that were riddled with holes and brown patches. Fortunately, both issues were more of an aesthetic concern than anything else, and neither of them required treatment or had any lasting effects on the overall health of the trees. In fact, they are both likely to occur each year to some degree and should not be reason for concern.
Earlier this year, we shared an article that highlighted two issues that were tied to recent weather patterns and had many homeowners concerned about their oak trees - one was an insect (Oak Shothole Leafminer) and another was a fungal pathogen (Oak Anthracnose). Combined, they made for unsightly leaves that were riddled with holes and brown patches. Fortunately, both issues were more of an aesthetic concern than anything else, and neither of them required treatment or had any lasting effects on the overall health of the trees. In fact, they are both likely to occur each year to some degree and should not be reason for concern.
As we move through one of the hotter Ohio summers in recent memory, some oaks are dealing with yet another issue that is blemishing their leaves and even causing significant early defoliation. This time the culprit is a different foliar fungal issue called Tubakia Leaf Spot (pronounced “tu-bock-ee-ah”). This disease is much like the issues that we saw earlier this year in that it’s not something we need to treat and should be thought of as mostly an aesthetic issue. However, unlike the issues we saw in the spring, this one may indicate some underlying concerns that can be addressed.
Additional examples of Tubakia Leaf Spot
Heat and Drought Stress
With the heat of summer comes potential heat and drought stress for trees. If an oak exhibits signs of significant spotting and leaf drop from Tubakia, being proactive the following year and providing supplemental irrigation may help to reduce the effects of the disease. It may also be worth considering deep root fertilization as a way to help the tree regain its vigor and better handle the disease the following season.
Chlorosis
Chlorosis in an oak tree in Bexley, Ohio
Another common issue that many oaks struggle with is chlorosis. Chlorosis is a yellowing of the tree’s leaves that is often associated with high soil pH levels and can result in micronutrient deficiencies that affect the tree’s overall health and ability to withstand secondary stressors like insects, drought, and fungal diseases. It is a slowly progressing issue that causes a tree to decline over decades, and therefore often goes unnoticed by homeowners who just assumed their oak was supposed to be a little “yellow” looking. We’ve shared previous articles that go into greater depth regarding chlorosis, but it’s mentioned here because if your oak is chlorotic, the defoliation that can occur from Tubakia will likely be much more pronounced. Combined with the heat of summer, many oaks that are chlorotic and have Tubakia can start to defoliate at an alarming rate by mid-August. If this describes your oak tree, consider it a message that your tree is asking for a little TLC. Addressing the issue of chlorosis will help improve the health of your oak and improve its ability to deal with other stressors.
It’s worth mentioning that the issues discussed here can produce symptoms that an untrained eye may misinterpret as Oak Wilt. Oak Wilt is a serious systemic fungal disease that can, and typically does, lead to the decline and death of otherwise healthy oaks once infected. If you’re concerned about your oak tree, take a few photos of the leaves and send them to us. We may be able to determine what’s happening and put your mind at ease. If we’re not sure, we’ll schedule a visit to further inspect the tree. Even for trained arborists, Oak Wilt can only be 100% confirmed through diagnostic testing in a lab. If we suspect Oak Wilt, we will recommend this testing be done right away. Be careful with online searches as an attempt to “self-diagnose”. This often leads us down a very incorrect path when we do it regarding our own health concerns, and it’s typically no more accurate when we apply it to other living things. Ask the experts, it’s what we’re here for.
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Best Practices for Watering Your Trees
Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.
Please note: This article was originally published on 8/13/2020 and was republished on 8/1/2023.
Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.
I approached the tree expecting to see an insect infestation, disease presence, or mechanical damage from my neighbor getting to close with his string trimmer. I could find none of these things. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the soil around the base of the tree was cracked, hard and dry and that I simply had allowed the root system to dry out. I felt like such a greenhorn. I immediately watered the tree with a slow deep soaking and will continue to do so through the end of October.
An arborist is not supposed to make this mistake but I share this story to show you how it can happen to anyone and to illustrate that there is a better way to water, and that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.
Many of the calls that come through our office are a result of improper tree watering, both directly and indirectly. Some are regarding trees that were planted and simply never watered, others are regarding trees that have experienced significant drought stress and now have been impacted by pest and/or disease problems targeting a vulnerable host.
Drought stress develops in trees when available soil water becomes limited. Newly planted trees are at the highest risk of drought stress because they do not have an extensive root system. As the soil dries it becomes harder and more compact reducing oxygen availability. When this happens young feeder roots can be killed outright further reducing the trees ability to absorb sufficient water even after it may return to the soil.
Why is water important to trees? Trees require water for two important functions: (1) Photosynthesis: the process by which plants synthesize food and (2) Transpiration: a process where water evaporates from the leaves and is drawn up from the roots helping to move nutrients up the tree.
No water in the soil means no nutrient transfer and no photosynthesis. This generally equates to tree death.
Knowing the best way to deliver water is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees so here are some basic guidelines and tips to follow to make sure you are getting the most out of your watering efforts:
When to water
Newly planted trees should be watered one to two times per week during the growing season. The best time to water is early in the morning or at night. This allows trees the opportunity to replenish their moisture during these hours when they are not as stressed by hot temperatures. Watering at night allows more effective use of water and less loss to evaporation. Side note: If watering at night, a system that directs water into the ground and away from the foliage is recommended. Some foliar fungal diseases like apple scab or needle cast can thrive on foliage that remains wet through the cool nighttime hours.
How to Water
The best way to water newly planted trees is slowly, deeply and for a long time so that roots have more time to absorb moisture from the soil. A deep soaking will encourage roots to grow deeper as opposed to frequent shallow watering which can lead to a shallow root system more vulnerable to drying out (like my Nikko maple).
I like to water trees slowly two different ways. Around my house I use a garden hose with the pressure turned low so that water is coming out at a slow trickle. I place the end of the hose on the root ball a few inches away from the main stem and leave it in place 30 - 60 minutes depending on the size of the tree. This should be done at least once a week during the growing season. Verify that water is coming out slowly and seeping into the soil rather than just running off into the lawn. For trees that are outside the range of my hose, I like to use 5-gallon buckets with two small holes poked in the bottom of one side. These can be filled up quickly with the hose but will drain slowly, ideal for a slow soaking. Two 5-gallon buckets once a week should suffice for most newly planted trees, depending on the size.
Where to water
It is important to understand that for the first growing season after planting, most newly planted tree's roots are still within the original root ball. This is where watering efforts should be focused. The root ball and the surrounding soil should be kept evenly moist to encourage healthy root growth. It can take two or more growing seasons for a tree to become established and for its roots to venture into the soil beyond the original root ball.
Trees under stress from disease or insect predation and trees in restricted root zones (trees surrounded by pavement) could take longer to establish.
Other important tips
Avoid fertilizing during drought conditions - synthetic fertilizers can cause root injury when soil moisture is low. Fertilizing in the summer could also cause additional new growth requiring additional moisture to support it.
A 1 - 2” layer of organic mulch over the root zone of the tree will help to conserve water.
The goal of watering is to keep roots moist but not wet. Excessively saturated conditions can also damage tree roots.
A “good rain” or even an irrigation system is not sufficient for most new tree plantings
During extended periods of drought all trees (including established ones) benefit from supplemental watering.
TJ Nagel & José Fernández posing for a photo for this article! Happy watering, everyone!
Remember, proper watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees. I am intentionally redundant on this point because it cannot be overstated. Air temperatures, precipitation, tree health, tree size, soil texture, etc. can all influence a tree's need for water. This article is intended to be a basis for proper tree watering procedures and cannot address every tree watering scenario. Happy watering and may your rain barrels always be full.
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
Trees that Love Wet "Feet"
“Who Will Stop the Rain?” — I think a lot of us have been wondering this lately. After seeing problem after problem at almost every property I have visited recently, I decided to write about trees that like wet feet.
“Who Will Stop the Rain?” — I think a lot of us have been wondering this lately. After seeing problem after problem at almost every property I have visited recently, I decided to write about trees that like wet “feet.”
I myself have a very wet back yard. After visiting Louisiana several years ago I came to know one of my favorite trees for wet locations. We took several boat rides into the swamps and bayous where we were introduced to the Bald cypress (Taxodium distichun). My wife’s uncle Roland had some favorite spots where the knees growing from the root systems were unbelievable, some reaching up to 2’ high.
Bald cypress “knees” growing out of the ground from the root system
It is thought that the knees produced by the Bald cypress are actually a function of the root system to acquire oxygen. The tree is often mistaken for an evergreen. It is actually a deciduous evergreen. Each fall when they acquire their amazing fall color, I am often asked if they are dead. They become a beautiful orange to rust color each fall.
Here is another photo that I took on the San Antonio river walk which shows just how adaptable this tree can be. It is growing in a 5’ tree lawn where it grew to be over 4’ in diameter and well over 70’ tall. It does have an unlimited water supply in this situation.
My favorite ornamental for wet locations happens to be a Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia). I have one in my backyard that puts on a tremendous show each spring with its red blooms. The buckeyes that it produces seem to be a lighter shade than traditional buckeyes and actually show a little bit of wood grain in the nut.
Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia)
A couple of other small ornamentals that can handle wet areas would be the Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) and the Pawpaw (Asimina triloba). The Sweetbay which blooms later in the spring than other varieties, is not quite as showy, but makes up for it with their scent. The Pawpaw is known for the fruit that it produces. See a previous article written by Jose Fernandez to learn more about the Pawpaw.
A couple of trees that you can find growing naturally along our river banks and streams would be the River birch (Betula nigra) and the American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis). Both are loved for the year round appeal of their bark. The Sycamore can become quite large and should be properly sited. We often find River birch planted in the wrong location as well. Their root systems can become quite aggressive in search of water.
If you have a pond or small stream and plenty of room there is always the Weeping willow (Salix babylonica). People have always loved its graceful habit, but like other trees on this list it must be properly sited. Another favorite seems to be the Red Maple (Acer rubrum) but as we learned from TJ Nagel in a previous article, you need to be careful where you plant Red Maple due to incompatible soils in much of central Ohio. They do have amazing fall color though and tolerate wet conditions if properly sited.
A couple of native trees that also produce amazing fall color are the Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) and the Sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua).
And last there are a couple of trees in the oak family as well that tolerate wet conditions. There is the Willow Oak (Quercus phellos) and the Swamp White Oak (Quercus bicolor) which are both beautiful and long lived trees if planted in the right location.
Although many of these trees can be considered nuisance trees if not properly sited, they all can be beautiful if planted where they are meant to be.
If you have lost trees recently due to fungal issues or site conditions in the last few years, please take the time to speak with an arborist about the right tree for the right location.
Sincerely,
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
When and How to Prune Lilacs
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
March 6, 2025
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
When To Prune
As a general rule for all lilacs, they should be pruned immediately after they’re done flowering in the spring. Since lilacs set next year’s flower buds right after the current year’s flowers have faded, pruning later in the summer or fall will result in cutting off many or all of next year’s flowers. This rule of timing applies to the larger common lilacs as well as the cultivars that are shorter or more “shrub” like. While the “when” of pruning lilacs is fairly straightforward, the “how” gets a little trickier. To keep things simple for now, we’ll think of lilac pruning as either maintenance pruning or rejuvenation pruning.
How To: Maintenance Pruning
For any lilac shrubs that have not outgrown their space or are still producing vibrant flowers each year, regular pruning can simply consist of any shaping that you choose to do along with removal of dead, diseased, or broken stems. You can also remove spent flowers from your lilacs to help encourage a cleaner growth habit and appearance. It’s always better to do this type of pruning by hand, rather than shearing. When making cuts, try to cut back to an outward facing bud. A good pair of hand pruners is the perfect tool for this and makes for much better pruning cuts than hedge shears.
How To: Rejuvenation Pruning
If you’ve ever had an older common lilac in your landscape that went unpruned for many years, you’re probably familiar with their overgrown, unruly habit when left alone. Many people mistakenly believe that these shrubs have stopped flowering at this point. Oftentimes what’s actually happening is the flowers are being produced on just the upper portions of the shrub where the plant has reached a taller height and is exposed to sunlight. Once they’ve reached this stage, we’re often left to stare at bare, woody branches at eye level and below. For these overgrown shrubs, we can remove entire older canes or stems that are 2” in diameter or larger to encourage a rejuvenation of the shrub. We want to apply the rule of thirds when doing this type of pruning - Remove approximately one third of the older canes or stems each year for 3 years. This gives the shrub a chance to slowly transition back to a fuller, shorter shrub with more new growth filling in from the bottom. If you decide to drastically prune the entire shrub this way all at once rather than just a third of it, a little extra care like fertilization and watering will be important to encourage new growth. Note that this “all at once” approach is generally not recommended for the health of the shrub.
Your lilac flowers can be influenced by many things, including the temperature, soil conditions, even disease and insect problems, but proper pruning goes a long way to ensuring they put on a great show every spring. And remember, if you have specific questions about pruning or anything tree and shrub related, your dedicated Russell Tree Experts arborist is only an email or phone call away.
*New* Video!
To accompany the above article, Walter Reins demos how to prune lilac trees in this new video! Click below!
Please note: This article was originally published on 4/6/2020 and was republished on 3/6/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.
How to Beat the Winter Blues
I look out the window gazing upon the barren winter landscape. I miss the vibrant green leaves on my fragrant viburnums. I miss the beautiful red flowers on my roses. I even miss watching the bees in search of nectar dancing from one pesky dandelion to the next. Most of all I miss the sun and spending my evenings cultivating a new season’s garden. I feel safe to say I have succumbed to the winter blues…
I look out the window gazing upon the barren winter landscape. I miss the vibrant green leaves on my fragrant viburnums. I miss the beautiful red flowers on my roses. I even miss watching the bees in search of nectar dancing from one pesky dandelion to the next. Most of all I miss the sun and spending my evenings cultivating a new season’s garden. I feel safe to say I have succumbed to the winter blues.
It happens to me this time every year. I survive through January and February only to be teased by March. We have a nice day here, a nice day there, and all the middle filled with what seems like more never ending winter. I stop at a local garden store dreaming of a sea of color, annuals and perennials as far as the eye can see, only to find out their nursery stock is only still beginning to arrive. What am I to do? I am ready to make my way out into the landscape but it appears winter is still here!
Have no fear, I have found the answer. These occasional beautiful March days aren’t to be wasted; they are the perfect opportunity to prepare your landscape for spring. Over the years I have developed a few ways to help “scratch” that itch from spring fever:
Pruning your shrubs and trees during dormancy are much appreciated by your plants. Pruning before bud break allows your plants to use its energy in areas you are encouraging as opposed to wasting it in areas you are going to be removing. It is also helpful in reducing the spread of certain pest and diseases.
Cut back and clean up your perennials. March is a great time to cut back your grasses to make way for the new year’s sprouts. Cut back any woody perennials such as butterfly bush or bluebeard to strong stems to prevent floppy plants the following year. Clean up any old foliage from the previous year. This will allow new buds to push through easier and help prevent the spread of pests and disease. Cleanliness is a key factor in reducing many problems in the landscape.
Weed preventer can also be applied in March. This can vary in timing between years but a weed preventer can save you many hours of weeding from just one application.
Start thinking about grass seed. Winter over seeding allows for the seed to germinate early in the season taking advantage of spring rain. Remember, do not apply a crabgrass preventer when over seeding as it can prevent germination of your grass seed.
These are just a few ideas for how I enjoy those warm March afternoons and I am happy to have shared my antidote to the winter blues with all of you. Hopefully you find its effects as fruitful as I have. Although none of these items need to be done right now, they are the perfect little jobs to fill up those randomly beautiful and sunny March days. I know I will be out there and hopefully you will be too.
Andy Bartram | Crew Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Planting Trees is Easy... Right?
Tree Planting; It’s easy right? Well that’s what I thought when I took a position years ago (with a different company) where we planted 650 balled and burlapped trees the first year I was there.
Planting Trees is Easy... Right?
Well that’s what I thought when I took a position years ago (with a different company) where we planted 650 balled and burlapped trees the first year I was there.
I had been in the tree industry for about 10 years at the time but didn’t have a lot of planting experience. We had a backhoe, 4 crew members and all the elementary kids in the city to help us. What could go wrong? Well apparently, a number of things. One of the first things we learned was it doesn’t matter how many times you mention to an elementary student that you should not stand on the root ball or hang on the tree trunk while planting the tree. We also learned that it is very hard to keep the elementary students attention for more than 1 or 2 tree plantings. As it turned out, dealing with the students was the easy part. We quickly learned that digging the planting hole with an inexperienced tree planting backhoe operator was also a mistake. As we discovered the following year, many of our trees were planted way to deep. We also had to deal with large chunks of soil which hinders the ability to avoid air pockets around the root balls and clean up was much harder. We later discovered that using a stump grinder to dig our planting holes was much easier and cleaner.
dotted line indicates the root flare
After that first planting season we noticed that we were losing a number of trees. So instead of just yanking them out of the ground we started inspecting each dead tree to see if we could determine what went wrong. A number of them were simply planted to deep. Remember the backhoe, many of the holes were dug to deep. We didn’t realize how important it is that the root flare be visible at grade or even slightly higher than grade.
After even more inspections we found that we planted the top of the root ball at grade, but the root flares were 6 inches deep in the root ball itself. Some of the trees even tried to develop a second root flare called adventitious roots. After that first year we learned that the majority of our losses were from planting too deep.
As the years went on, we continued to learn from our mistakes. One example that really taught us about planting depth were 6 to 7 English Oaks that we planted at one location where they survived but didn’t really grow much. Plans for the site changed a few months later and we decided to move them to a new location. As we were digging them up, we discovered how deeply they were planted. We were able to move them and planted them at the correct depth. They grew over a foot in the first year after being planted properly. It was like they said, “Thank you”.
Another observation that I made recently was at a small clearing job we did in Canal Winchester. The site was a nursery at one time. Apparently when the property changed hands, they left about 12 to 15 balled and burlapped trees just sitting on the ground near some Norway Spruces. Every one of those trees survived and took root in the ground below them and have been growing for several years. So, I guess if you’re not sure, planting trees higher is better than being planted too deep.
I will be following up this article with a tree planting video at a later date. There are many other tips that we learned the hard way that I will be happy to share later.
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Editor’s Note: Although Russell Tree Experts doesn’t sell or plant trees (other than for our TREE FOR A TREE® program), we highly value the importance of proper tree planting. See our recommended vendors list for your tree purchasing and planting needs.
Bend So You Don’t Break
Last summer, I had the opportunity to introduce our field staff to the practice of yoga. In heavy work boots and on a hard concrete floor, we made our way through Triangle Pose, Downward Facing Dog, and even a few Sun Salutations. Practicing yoga for 20 years and teaching it for the last 10, I’ve learned that the stretches and postures of yoga can help keep the joints and soft tissues of our body, like muscles and tendons, healthy and functional.
Last summer, I had the opportunity to introduce our field staff to the practice of yoga. In heavy work boots and on a hard concrete floor, we made our way through Triangle Pose, Downward Facing Dog, and even a few Sun Salutations. Practicing yoga for 20 years and teaching it for the last 10, I’ve learned that the stretches and postures of yoga can help keep the joints and soft tissues of our body, like muscles and tendons, healthy and functional. Tree care consists of many tasks that are demanding on the physical body, and yoga is a great way to address tightness in areas like the neck and shoulders, hips and lower back, and even the hands and wrists. This can lead to greater mobility and functional movement when lifting heavy wood or climbing a tree. We now have a regular morning yoga practice at Russell Tree Experts(with mats!), every Tuesday and Thursday before the crews begin their day. Even our mechanics and office staff join in.
This combination of yoga and trees got me thinking back to a significant winter earlier in my career as an arborist. On December 22nd, 2004, Columbus was hit with a nasty winter storm. I was living far enough north of the city at the time that I saw nothing but snow at my home. Columbus, however, received a devastating combination of snow and ice. I was an ill-equipped new homeowner, so after hand-shoveling my 350ft gravel driveway (oh, to be 23 again…), I made my way to work and was in disbelief over what I saw. Because of the heavy ice accumulation, there were trees and limbs down in practically every yard. Many white pines and siberian elms had literally been stripped of every limb and left to look like totems or coat racks. There were also river birch and arborvitae bent over so much (but not broken) that their tops were touching and frozen to the ground. What is typically a slower time of year in the tree care industry proved to be very busy, and day after day of cleanup carried us straight into spring.
That winter provided me with valuable insight into the strengths and weaknesses of trees. Some types of trees with stiffer wood fibers didn’t fare as well, while others that had the ability to bend, but not break, held up much better under heavy loads. Many of those river birch and arborvitae that I mentioned righted themselves by mid-spring and were able to be preserved.
So what does all of this have to do with proper tree care? We obviously cannot change the inherent nature of a tree’s wood fibers and make them bend more or bend less. Nor can we prevent major weather events. But, we can proactively address existing weaknesses in a tree, and we can also ensure that pruning is performed properly, so as not to create a vulnerability that otherwise wouldn't have existed. Just like yoga can help us avoid injury or illness by keeping our bodies flexible and healthy, proper tree care can do the same for our trees. Here are a few examples:
Removing large cracked/broken limbs
These limbs are obvious hazards to targets like homes and pedestrians if they fall out of the tree, but they can also do additional damage to the tree itself. A structurally unsound limb, if left in the tree, can place unwanted stress on otherwise healthy limbs if it breaks but doesn’t fall out completely. Eliminating these defective parts of a tree allows the rest of the canopy to structurally function at its best.
Making proper pruning cuts
When pruning cuts are made correctly, a healthy tree will compartmentalize and attempt to close off the wound that was created. This helps to prevent decay of the woody portion of a limb or trunk that gives a tree its strength. Improper cuts don’t close up correctly and can become areas where decay eventually spreads into the tree. This greatly increases the risk of failure or breaking when forces like wind or ice act upon that part of the tree.
Avoiding “Lion’s Tailing”
This is a term used to describe the improper pruning of a tree where all the lateral branches have been removed from the larger limbs, leaving each of those limbs with brush only at the ends and looking like “lion’s tails”. Aside from aesthetically ruining a tree, this improper method of pruning can actually concentrate forces like wind or added weight at the point of attachment, rather than distributing it throughout the length of the limb. In high winds especially, this can lead to an increased risk of failure.
Minimize staking of new trees
This one has more to do with proper tree planting than it does with proper care of established trees, but it’s worthy of mentioning. Young trees will actually develop stronger roots and wood fibers in response to forces placed upon them. A newly planted tree needs to get “thrown around” a bit in the wind in order to properly establish and “bend” with future stressors rather than “break”(or blow over in this case). Staking a tree, especially beyond the first year, provides an artificial system of support that the tree will come to rely on for as long as it’s in place. Think of it as “tough love” for young trees.
These are just a few key examples of how proper tree care gives our trees a chance to thrive, adding function and value to our landscapes. Prevention is the best medicine - we know this to be true for ourselves, and it’s equally true for our trees.
Were you in Columbus for the winter ice storm of 2004? Leave your stories and experiences of that winter in the comments below. Or do you have a yoga practice and appreciate the strength that comes with flexibility? Share your thoughts with us.
For now, I’m going to work on getting my Oak to try something other than Tree Pose.
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Growing Degree Days
This semester I am enrolled in a class called Integrated Pest Management, taught by Dr. Luis Cañas at The Ohio State University. One of the first lectures we had was centered around the effects that the environment has on insect populations. As we explored this theme we soon came across the concept of “growing degree days”, and I was reminded of how useful this idea is to increase awareness of what is happening in the natural world around us and to be aware of when potentially damaging insect pests are about to emerge.
This semester I am enrolled in a class called Integrated Pest Management, taught by Dr. Luis Cañas at The Ohio State University. One of the first lectures we had was centered around the effects that the environment has on insect populations. As we explored this theme we soon came across the concept of “growing degree days”, and I was reminded of how useful this idea is to increase awareness of what is happening in the natural world around us and to be aware of when potentially damaging insect pests are about to emerge.
Reminded? Yes. At Russell Tree Experts we have been using growing degree days for years now as a tool to help when scheduling our tree wellness services. Seeing the concept again in class made me want to share it with all interested readers.
The concept of growing degree days is based on three basic principles which I will draw from my lecture notes provided by Dr. Cañas:
A “degree day” is the term used for the amount of heat accumulated above a specified base temperature within a 24-hour period.
The base temperature is (ideally) also the “lower temperature threshold”, which is the temperature below which a certain insect will not grow or develop. This is determined by research.
“Cumulative degree days” are just that: the number of degree days that have built up since a certain starting point (in general, since the beginning of the year).
What does this mean for living creatures? This is where things get interesting, so I’m glad you’ve read this far. Have you ever wondered how an insect knows it is time to hatch, or lay eggs, or go into pupation, or finish pupation so it can emerge as an adult? Is it increasing hours of daytime as days get longer after winter? (Maybe, but not quite directly). Is there some sort of internal clock that is ticking that just tells insects when to go into the next stage of development or propagation? But what if that clock went out of sync with environmental conditions? If you are reading this, you are very likely in central Ohio. Lovely state that it is, what do all Buckeyes say about the weather in our state? Exactly. Case in point: Here I am on Monday, February the 3rd, and today I was taking off clothes since I dressed for winter in the morning and got ambushed by 60 degrees and sunny. But the forecast looks like snow by Wednesday.
So what is it? Well, people devoted to these questions looked into it and found that apparently it is the accumulation of heat over time that causes insect development to proceed in synchrony with environmental conditions. So for a given insect, development will begin and continue above a certain temperature (low temperature threshold). Once so many degree days have accumulated (again, specific to the insect type), an egg will hatch, or an adult will emerge, or a nymph will grow into a more advanced stage, for example. These numbers can be identified for insects by watching and measuring. One simple formula (there are others that are more complicated) for tracking degree days is like this:
Starting on January 1st, the low temperature and the high temperature within that 24-hour period are logged. Those two temperatures are averaged, and the base temperature (low temperature threshold) is subtracted from the total.
For example: The high today was 61. The low was 50. 61+50= 111. 111/2 = 55.5, the average temperature. Let’s assume a certain insect, we can call it “Steve”, ceases all development when temperatures drop below 50 degrees. We would subtract 50 from 55.5, resulting in 5.5 degree days for today, February 3rd. Note that this number is only accurate for my specific area, since highs and lows are different throughout the state. This is another advantage of this system: It allows us to track Steve’s development in our own back yard!
Continuing with our friend, research has shown that Steve will emerge from pupation as a feeding adult after the accumulation of say, 548 cumulative degree days. What we would do is track degree days every day until we reach at least 548. After we reach that amount we would expect to start seeing Steves show up in our back yard on whatever plants Steves like to hang out on, doing whatever it is Steves like to do when they show up. The neat thing about this is that if we have a cold snap that lasts 3 weeks, even after two days of t-shirt weather in February (which is quite normal for Ohio right?), Steve’s development will simply pause, since degree day accumulation will slow down dramatically during the cold snap. Any day that there is at least 1 degree day, Steve will continue to develop, albeit much more slowly than if there were 20 degree days added on a given calendar date.
If you take the time to think this through you will start to connect all kinds of dots together that will make you marvel at the intricacy of our natural world, and how interconnected everything is. Nothing short of miraculous.
We’re almost done. One more tidbit: Plants seem to follow a similar pattern. This is not only neat, but useful! Since plants also follow this pattern it is only to be expected that certain plants will be at certain stages in their development each spring when Steve is at certain stages of his development each spring. So let’s say it just so happens that my Purple Robe Black Locust is starting to get all dressed up in her pink party dress at around 548 cumulative growing degree days, and that just happens to be the same amount of degree days that Steve needs to finish pupating and emerge as an adult. Instead of calculating degree days to watch for Steve, I can simply keep my eyes on my flowering tree. When I see her in full bloom I know that Steve is also out and about. In this case we call my Black Locust a “phenological indicator”. Her blooming is an outward sign of development in a plant that coincides with an important stage of insect development, thus serving as an indicator for that insect life stage.
The Ohio State University is full of very hard working citizens who study these things. Not only that, they track these things for us and give us a handy tool that does all the calculations (more complex versions than the basic one I shared) and tabulates events at the same time. Check out the resource here: https://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/gdd/. Delve into it a bit. If you did not know about degree days and how they affect plants and insects, you will be amazed, if you are interested in the outdoors. If you already knew about these things before reading this article, I hope reading this made the concept a bit more accessible. Maybe now you can readily expound on the topic at the next ice cream social you are invited to. Be careful though- you would not want it to be your last. In any case, I am fairly certain you will not find a Steve on the OSU website I gave you above. Steves are not considered to be plant or tree pests so they have not been studied by our worthy scientists.
As always, thank you for reading. I am humbled by all the support I get from my readers. I have had the pleasure of conversing with many of you over the years and count myself blessed because of it.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
Oak pruning, fascinating tree facts, and other thoughts
Here we are, fresh out of the holiday season, and the end of January is in sight! I wanted to reach out to you with some timely advice concerning trees, some reminders of why trees are so essential to life as we know it, and perhaps some other thoughts that might sneak out through my fingers as I type.
Dear Reader,
Here we are, fresh out of the holiday season, and the end of January is in sight! I wanted to reach out to you with some timely advice concerning trees, some reminders of why trees are so essential to life as we know it, and perhaps some other thoughts that might sneak out through my fingers as I type.
I recently shared some of my experiences dealing with invasive plants with a nice group of folks who are part of PRISM (Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management). At the end of my talk I went off topic for a moment to leave these people with a warning concerning Oak trees. Those of you who have been following our emails for a while probably recall we have devoted two separate issues entirely to oak wilt, since we had a laboratory confirmed case in Franklin County several years ago with one of my clients. I am disturbed by how many oak trees are still being removed and pruned within the window of time that is considered high risk for spreading the disease.
At Russell Tree Experts we decided that oak pruning would be scheduled in the fall and winter months, between October 1 and March 15, in order to avoid the time when Nitidulid beetles are active, attracted to pruning wounds, and potentially vectoring the disease pathogen from infected trees to healthy trees.
My purpose here is simply to remind you to please spread the word to raise awareness of this disease. I recently met a new client who had someone offer to prune his Red Oak for him. He politely inquired of the person making the offer if he was aware that it was not the proper time of year to prune oak trees because of the risk of oak wilt. The would-be tree pruner was not aware of this. Good job, Tom! If only more and more tree managers were able to do the same thing perhaps awareness of the fact that central Ohio residents know and care about their trees will eventually raise the standard of tree care in our communities. I am happy to say that reputable tree care companies are aware of oak wilt in our area and are able to communicate the proper way to deal with this problem.
I end this note with a quick reminder: If you have an oak tree you need to prune, please have the work done before March 15! Otherwise plan for a fall/winter pruning. Incidentally, the same practice is advisable if you have an elm tree. Dutch elm disease and oak wilt are very similar diseases on different species of trees.
On to other things
I attended a tree root seminar hosted by the Ohio Chapter of the ISA some weeks ago. Much of the material presented came from a resource that was new to me. I spoke to the moderator about this book and ordered it from Amazon before the lunch break was over. The book is called Applied Tree Biology, by Andrew Hirons and Peter Thomas. I was impressed at the amount of current information that has been brought together into one volume centered around the theme of how to use all the good research that is out there in order to promote tree health. I wanted to share several bits of information these authors put into their book, which was published in 2018.
From the first chapter (facts are italicized, followed by my comment in parenthesis);
There are three trillion trees around the world. (And just think, we actually need to plant more!)
Forests hold around 45% of the carbon stored on land (2780 gigatons).
Forests help determine weather patterns by how they can evaporate large amounts of water which form clouds, producing rain downwind. Recent discovery of a chemical made and released by trees called pinene can help clouds form to produce rain by acting as nuclei for water to form around. (Are you blown away by this? I was. There is so much we still do not know!)
All the world’s forests hold more than 80% of the world’s species.
The same chemicals that can cause cloud formation are known to reduce tension and mental stress in humans, increasing feelings of well-being and decreasing aggression and depression.
Over 100 million ash have been lost in the northeastern USA since 2002 due to the emerald ash borer. This loss of trees in urban environments has been linked to increased human mortality as a result of higher levels of cardiovascular and respiratory diseases. Increases in crime have also been linked to the loss of ash trees to EAB. (This brings it home, doesn’t it? I found it strange that one of the most present problems during my career as an arborist has provided study opportunities for learning about the seemingly intangible values of trees in relation to human society).
Incredibly, this book is in the format of a textbook. The authors are from the UK, and I am finding their writing style to be refreshingly accessible for a topic that can become rather dry even for an arborist who loves his work. Right before the table of contents there is a page titled “Epigraph” with a quote taken from a work from 1664 titled Sylva, by a fellow named John Evelyn. I was frankly astounded that I found such a quote in a textbook written in 2018. I will share it with you at the end of this installment. Some of you may like it, some of you may not. I merely share it as found. Reading the quote made me wonder what this textbook was going to be like. It also reignited in me the sense of a deeper mystery surrounding our everyday life that keeps me looking ahead for more. More of what? I don’t know exactly. Perhaps more of the mystery. This undercurrent of the ever present unknown is easy for me to lose sight of, but when I take the time to listen to a client, seeing the person rather than the tree that needs to be pruned, treated or removed I am reminded that all we do should be centered around the things that have value.
What has value? My neighbor. The animals and plants that are also struggling to make a life not very far from where you are seated right now. The fact that all this is something we have been given, not something any of us planned for before we entered the world. Think about this: Life has been given! Don’t miss it.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
Epigraph
In a word, and to speak a bold and noble truth, trees and woods have twice saved the whole world; first by the ark, then by the cross; making full amends for the evil fruit of the tree in paradise, by that which was born on the tree in Golgotha.
From “Sylva”
by John Evelyn, 1664
(Shared directly from Applied Tree Biology, Andrew D. Hirons and Peter A. Thomas. Wiley Blackwell, Oxford, 2018.)
"Can you recommend a tree that is not messy?"
“Can you recommend a tree that is not messy? One that will not drop fruit, or twigs, or stuff all over the place.” This is perhaps the request I run into the most when someone wants advice on what trees to plant. The first time I heard this one I had to fight the urge to smile and reply that yes, there are trees like that which also happen to be disease-free, not attacked by any pest, grow quickly (instantly, in fact) to the desired size, shape, and color you want them to be and never need to be pruned…
“Can you recommend a tree that is not messy?”
by José Fernández
“Can you recommend a tree that is not messy? One that will not drop fruit, or twigs, or stuff all over the place.” This is perhaps the request I run into the most when someone wants advice on what trees to plant. The first time I heard this one I had to fight the urge to smile and reply that yes, there are trees like that which also happen to be disease-free, not attacked by any pest, grow quickly (instantly, in fact) to the desired size, shape, and color you want them to be and never need to be pruned. The only maintenance required is a yearly power washing to make them as good as new. But I chose to leave that reply unspoken. Sometimes my attempt at harmless humor or a friendly jab in the ribs does not go over well. Of course, dear readers, now I am wondering how many of you are wondering what kind of tree I was thinking of, and where can one be acquired? I will leave that response for another day. In this installment I would like to highlight a different type of tree for you.
I realized this week that there is one shade tree that almost, just almost, fits the bill for being a non-messy tree, with a few caveats. For those who want to know immediately which tree I am thinking of, skip right down to somewhere near the bottom and find the answer. For those who want to test their ability to identify trees, see how many clues are needed before you figure it out… [Some of the following points may be trick statements, designed to point you the wrong way! Read carefully.]
In prehistory, this tree was native to North America. In more recent history, this tree is considered to be native to somewhere on the other side of the world.
Like most conifers, this tree is a gymnosperm.
Some consider the fruit to be edible, and other plant parts are touted to help with hearing disorders. (Is that right? I’m not sure… perhaps if I took more of this herbal remedy I would remember).
Fruit? Yes, if the tree is female. So definitely make sure you source a male cultivar to stay with the non-messy design requirement. Otherwise this tree will eventually produce loads and loads of fruit, and based on the odor of the fruit alone, you probably would not consider it to be edible in any way. (Actually, I think the nut inside is the edible part. I don’t know many people with the fortitude of character required to get to the nut. Most people downwind of the fallen fruit quickly walk the other way, or cross to the other side of the street).
As other trees who are the only members of their genus, this tree has no pests or diseases of any importance.
This tree has a beautiful bright yellow fall color, and is known for dropping all its leaves at once, making leaf cleanup a one-time event.
I recently read an article in Arborist News about these trees. There are very old individuals in China that are visited each year by crowds of people who want to witness the annual leaf fall. Apparently certain trees will drop their leaves on a predictable schedule and people like being a part of that. As I read the article I reflected that I have seen recently fallen leaves under this species, but have never witnessed the sudden leaf drop, nor did I know this happened. When the leaves do fall, there is a soft carpet of bright yellow completely under the tree – this I had seen several times.
This fall I was in a Columbus neighborhood to inspect a nice large Oak tree in the client’s back yard. As I pulled up, I noted a mature Ginkgo planted in the neighbor’s front yard. Lo and behold, it had started dropping leaves that morning of November 8, and was steadily raining leaves. There was a light breeze, so the yellow carpet was stretching into and down the street, and I found myself feeling as if I had received an unexpected gift. I watched the leaves falling for a minute or two, then carried on with my business. The entire time I was in my client’s back yard I could hear the steady soft murmur of falling leaves, and I would walk over to take a peek to see if the stream of leaves changed in any way. The rate of leaf fall remained steady, with increasing waves when the breeze picked up. As the breeze died down, the leaves continued to fall more slowly, making a sound like quiet rain, but with a more distinct, feathery quality. I could see how this would truly be a unique experience, to be somewhere in rural China under an ancient Maidenhair Tree (another name for Ginkgo) watching the leaves fall steadily until the tree remained bare for the winter.
I walked back to my truck and watched the tree some more. I wanted to stay to see if what I had read was true. Would the leaves really all fall off? Some toward the bottom still looked like they had not fully turned yellow yet and I wondered if they would come down too, or wait until later. The morning was beautiful, cold, crisp and clear like they rarely are in fall/winter in Ohio, and I wanted to soak it in. The leaves continued to fall. Thinking back now I am reminded of a poem called Spring Dreams by Li Po (if I recall correctly) that stuck with me after reading it years ago. Different season, but possibly the same sentiment:
In the spring I dream through dawn, but hear birds everywhere, singing.
Oh voice of all night wind and rain, do you count the petals that are falling?
Ginkgo biloba
This time I needed to move on, so after a few more moments I got back in my truck thinking I should drive by later to see if the tree had shed all its clothing, or if it would wait demurely until a bit later. I did not make it back that day, and haven’t yet, but I do want to return next year to see if it is on schedule.
As we head toward the end of the year, deeper into winter, I hope this fall memory and this tree will remind you all that the continuing cycle of seasons is assured to us. Maidenhair leaves turn a brilliant yellow, as if giving us one last memory of the summer sun, then are shed voluntarily at their proper time to make way for new growth next season. Life pulses steadily in rhythms that change in color, temperature, and tempo, but the measure carries on. We have much to be thankful for.
Wishing you the best as the end of the year approaches,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
Drought Stress!
The passing of time seems so fast that it can skew our perception of the present. In central Ohio, most non-farmers are still thinking about the record amount of rain fall we experienced this spring, so much so that we didn’t really pay attention when the wet spring turned into a dry, dry, summer and fall. I drive around large parts of town, regularly covering over 100 miles of road per day, and trees are what I notice…
Drought Stress!
By José Fernández
The passing of time seems so fast that it can skew our perception of the present. In central Ohio, most non-farmers are still thinking about the record amount of rain fall we experienced this spring, so much so that we didn’t really pay attention when the wet spring turned into a dry, dry, summer and fall.
I drive around large parts of town, regularly covering over 100 miles of road per day, and trees are what I notice, whether in my clients’ yards or not. And what I started to notice around August was an increasing number of dead trees. The trend started with maples: entire brown trees that looked like they had succumbed to verticillium wilt (you can read about that disease in a previous article).
Soon after, my colleagues and I started commenting on dead oak trees popping up here and there. Trees that just turned brown and died.
Now, White Pine and Arborvitae, particularly the Emerald Green variety. And this last one is what pushed me to sit down and write about the season of drought we are going through.
In the last 3 weeks, more and more clients have been calling in concerning their dead/dying Arborvitae. Almost every case looks just the same, and the loss has almost exclusively been to the Emerald Green variety. Apparently this variety is more susceptible to drought stress than others in the Thuja genus.
Things came to a head last week: Within a span of three days, four separate clients contacted me concerning their dead or dying arborvitae. In each case nothing turns up except very dry soil conditions. I explained to one client how the drought is affecting trees. Immediately after I spoke, we walked past his neighbor’s front lawn and there was a mature Norway Maple with maybe 20% of the canopy remaining. All other parts of the tree had wilted. The tree will need to be removed.
Trees are able to change how they interact with the environment to preserve their health. In times of drought they can limit gaseous exchange with the air by closing openings in the bark and leaves to preserve moisture loss. Of course, even though less moisture is being lost to the air, during a drought less and less moisture is coming in, and eventually the tree runs out of internal reserves. Like most of us, trees can go on for quite some time with no real exchange with the surrounding environment, but only for as long as our reserves allow. Eventually we die of starvation or become vulnerable to a pathogen long before the point of starvation comes in.
In the case of White Pine and other conifers, drought makes the tree vulnerable to conifer bark beetle, and in fact, a drought stressed tree may even emit pheromones or other chemical signals that attract these beetles in great numbers. The struggling tree is blanketed by thousands of small boring beetles that disrupt the vascular system. Result: the tree is dead in a matter of hours. Best way to avoid conifer bark beetle? Not an insecticide spray. Not a systemic application. Not fertilization. In a word: water.
Avoid drought stress = avoid a pest that delivers the killing stroke to a weakened tree.
What about lawn irrigation? I find that relying on lawn irrigation typically does not provide enough water to do more than supplement the water the tree is getting from normal rain fall. Once soil water levels are depleted lawn irrigation would need to be more than sufficient for grass in order to make a difference for struggling trees. If a tree is in full health, with plenty of reserves and a large area for root development in non-compacted soils, lawn irrigation will make the difference. If the tree is already stressed for some other reason, is trying to make it by in compacted urban soils, and is now facing drought conditions, expect the tree to decline and die rather rapidly.
Watering trees as they go into the dormant season is normally very helpful. As temperatures cool down and leaves drop, soil moisture usually remains at a good level, but should still be monitored to make sure trees are not headed into winter suffering drought stress. In a year where there has been an extended drought this is especially important. Not everyone will realize that their trees were stressed this year by the drought. Because of this, I expect to be looking at even more dead trees next spring – trees that will either not leaf back out, or trees that will leaf out, look good for 1-2 weeks, then suddenly turn brown and die. I know that sounds pessimistic, but I have seen it before.
The last two rain fall periods at my house in Union County provided .10 inches of rain, and .37 inches of rain, respectively, about 1 week apart. This is helpful, and I am thankful for it, especially in conjunction with cooler temperatures. Prior to that, we had only had one rainfall event, and that was 6 weeks before! And before then I recall weeks of no rain. Because of this, I have been watering my trees, and will do so into the fall. I am hoping for several days of soft gentle rains to try to build moisture levels back up in the soil.
Last paragraph, and it’s a short one: After reading this, go out to your trees. Kneel down, stick your hand under the mulch, if there is any. Scuff up the soil and feel it. Trust me, you will know what to do after that. Get your hose out and give your tree a drink. Repeat the process in a couple of days.
Some photos of what I’ve been seeing:
Update 10/23/19: Below is a video captured by Chris Gill (Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts) of dozens of arborvitae that have died as a result of drought stress:
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
10 Trees with Amazing Fall Color... and One You Should Avoid!
I was recently pruning trees in a newer neighborhood on the east side of Columbus where every house had two red maple in the front yard. Although Red maple is a native tree to Ohio, this subdivision was planted with a cultivated variety of the species called ‘Red Sunset.’ ‘Red Sunset’ red maple was selected and well marketed for its compact habit, good branching structure and most notably for its showy and reliable orange to red fall color.
10 trees with amazing fall color
By TJ Nagel
I was recently pruning trees in a newer neighborhood on the east side of Columbus where every house had two red maple in the front yard. Although Red maple is a native tree to Ohio, this subdivision was planted with a cultivated variety of the species called ‘Red Sunset.’ ‘Red Sunset’ red maple was selected and well marketed for its compact habit, good branching structure and most notably for its showy and reliable orange to red fall color.
Unfortunately for most of us in the central Ohio area, ‘Red Sunset’ Red maple was selected in Oregon and requires an acid soil with consistent moisture to perform well. It does not like the dry and often high pH soils of our urban landscapes.
The trees I observed on the East side of town had just been planted in the last 12-15 years, were in poor health & vigor and were already expressing advanced symptoms of chlorosis, a nutrition deficiency that causes yellowing, stunted growth, decline and eventual plant death.
Chlorosis in a Red Maple
I learned about chlorosis in different Red maple cultivars (short for cultivated varieties) when I was a horticulture student at OSU and I still deal with it daily in my career as an arborist. I see chlorotic Red maple in parks, commercial buildings, along streets and in private gardens every day. I even see chlorotic red maple in the aisles of reputable nurseries.
How has this tree become so popular? I believe it’s because it has been so well marketed. Maple has name recognition amongst most folks and the nursery industry loves red maple because it is easy to propagate, and they can produce a sellable tree from small whip in a short amount of time.
When I have the opportunity to ask clients why they selected this tree for their landscape I generally get one the following responses.
Somewhat common: Name recognition, they admit they don’t know much about trees, but they remember maple being a good tree from their childhood.
More common: Their landscaper recommended it (interesting side note: I have yet to hear from anyone that their arborist recommended it).
Most common: They were looking for something with nice fall color.
I’m a sucker for some nice fall color also and I’m here to report there are a lot of other great alternatives to red maple when looking for trees with nice fall foliage. The following are some of my favorite fall color trees that are adaptable, urban tolerant, and easy to grow.
Valley Forge American Elm
Great fast-growing historic shade tree adaptable to most soil types – reliable yellow to gold fall color.
Japanese Zelkova
Another urban tolerant medium to fast growing shade tree with nice vase shaped canopy with yellow to apricot to red fall color.
Black Tupelo
Excellent tree for glossy red fall color. Some cultivars will color yellow and red. Slow growing medium sized tree.
Hickory
This image is of a Pignut hickory but most species of hickory color beautifully in the fall. Slow growing tree. Plant this one for the next generation. Great tree for wildlife.
Sassafrass
Medium sized fast-growing tree in youth. Great yellow to orange to red to purple fall color – can be variable from year to year. One of Ohio’s most outstanding native trees for fall foliage.
Witch Hazel
There are dozens of cultivars of witch-hazel. Most of them have showy fall color. This image is the fall foliage of ‘Diane’ witch-hazel, one of my favorites. Also has showy red flowers in late winter.
Kousa dogwood
Great ornamental tree with exceptional yellow to red fall color. Also has great flowering show, beautiful bark at maturity and interesting fruit.
Ginkgo
Unrivaled for golden yellow fall color. My only complaint is that the show is short lived, often only 2 – 3 days.
Dawn Redwood
Foliage turns an excellent copper orange to brown before leaf drop. Fast growing, significant pest and disease-free shade tree.
Japanese Katsura
Medium to fast growing shade tree. Fall color can be apricot to scarlet red. Fall leaves smell like cotton candy.
TJ Nagel | Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
[images courtesy of various providers]
Tree ID Quizzes
We’re always looking for fun and exciting ways to educate our employees and customers. Below are two quizzes we initially made for our crews to improve their tree identification skills — now we’re making them available to you! Don’t worry if you get a question wrong, you’ll be informed of the correct answer right after each question! The quizzes feature over 40 common trees to central Ohio so you’ll be able to walk outside and quickly apply what you’ve learned.
TREE ID QUIZZES
We’re always looking for fun and exciting ways to educate our employees and customers. Below are two quizzes we initially made for our crews to improve their tree identification skills — now we’re making them available to you! Don’t worry if you get a question wrong, you’ll be informed of the correct answer right after each question! The quizzes feature over 40 common trees to central Ohio so you’ll be able to walk outside and quickly apply what you’ve learned. Feel free to take the quizzes over-and-over again until you’re a tree ID master! :)
Kenny Greer | Marketing Director, Russell Tree Experts
Kenny graduated from The Ohio State University with a BFA in Photography. He enjoys photography, graphic design, improv comedy, movies (except for the scary ones), and spending time with his wife and 2 kids.
Take a Walk on the Wild Side (no, really!)
When people in Japan coined the term ‘shinrin-yoku’ in 1982, they likely weren’t inspired by Lou Reed’s now classic 1972 hit. But shinrin-yoku, which translates in english to ‘forest bathing’, is a practice that takes us back to our wild side, back to experiencing the calming and healing qualities of the forest and all of the plants and animals that reside there.
Please note: This article was originally published on 5/13/2019 and was republished on 5/20/2021.
When people in Japan coined the term ‘shinrin-yoku’ in 1982, they likely weren’t inspired by Lou Reed’s now classic 1972 hit. But shinrin-yoku, which translates in english to ‘forest bathing’, is a practice that takes us back to our wild side, back to experiencing the calming and healing qualities of the forest and all of the plants and animals that reside there.
Forest bathing, also commonly called forest therapy or nature therapy, is a practice that involves spending time in a natural setting like a forest, and allowing our minds to slow down and set aside the “to do” list. We’re not literally bathing, but instead “soaking” in all of our surroundings. Scientific research has shown significant and remarkable health benefits from this practice, and some research suggests that the compounds and essential oils that are released by trees contribute to these benefits. These include decreased blood pressure, lower levels of cortisol (stress hormone) and an increased ability to focus.
Have you ever heard the expression “spend more time being, not doing”? In forest bathing, we look to spend time being - being present to all that’s around us, and taking in the forest and nature through all of our senses. The sights, sounds, smells, and tactile experiences we find in the forest are uniquely wild. Even our sense of taste can be entertained with many edible wild foods.
While forest bathing as a growing trend is joining the ranks of other mindfulness practices like yoga, tai chi, and meditation, the concept of reconnecting to the natural world is anything but new. Over a hundred years ago, Henry David Thoreau wrote in his essay titled ‘Walking’:
“At present, in this vicinity, the best part of the land is not private property; the landscape is not owned, and the walker enjoys comparative freedom. But possibly the day will come when it will be partitioned off into so-called pleasure-grounds, in which a few will take a narrow and exclusive pleasure only--when fences shall be multiplied, and man-traps and other engines invented to confine men to the public road, and walking over the surface of God's earth shall be construed to mean trespassing on some gentleman's grounds. To enjoy a thing exclusively is commonly to exclude yourself from the true enjoyment of it. Let us improve our opportunities, then, before the evil days come.”
Consider that Thoreau wrote this in the mid 1800s and was already compelled to express his view on the ill-effect of urban settings and a loss of connection to the natural world. Fast forward to present day, where the natural places seem less and less, and technology and the pace it requires of us becomes more and more. Stepping away from our phones and computers and into natural surroundings - even for just a short time - gives us the chance to reconnect with a simpler, slower and more peaceful world.
In central Ohio, we are fortunate to have so many wonderful Metro Parks that offer up natural settings and scenery. Take advantage of this time of year, when the forests and fields are filled with plants bursting with new foliage and eager to impress with showy and fragrant flowers. And before you set out on your trek into the woods, consider this bit of advice: silence your phone when you get there and commit to not using it, especially for pictures. There’s a good chance that when you pull out your phone to capture a photo of that patch of moss, red-tailed hawk, or a peculiar mushroom growing on a stump, an email, text or some notification is waiting to take you away from that present, mindful moment.
To quote Thoreau in ‘Walking’ once more,
“What business have I in the woods, if I am thinking of something out of the woods?”
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Floral Designs with Flowering Trees
Spring! We made it through the monochrome silence of winter and now, suddenly, spring clashes with a crescendo of color and I just can’t wait to get my hands on the proof, the promise of life - flowers. I love watching while tree and flower friends wake up from their long, quiet naps. Every year I am sure I am the first to greet them. Hello, my beautiful friends!
Floral Designs with Flowering Trees
By Shari Russell
Spring! We made it through the monochrome silence of winter and now, suddenly, spring clashes with a crescendo of color and I just can’t wait to get my hands on the proof, the promise of life - flowers. I love watching while tree and flower friends wake up from their long, quiet naps. Every year I am sure I am the first to greet them. Hello, my beautiful friends!
My true love for flowers officially began in 2001 when I started working in a busy flower shop in downtown Boston. The concept of creating art with living materials was and is so exciting to me. Creating a flower arrangement is like building a mini garden in its prime. It doesn’t have to be perfect to be beautiful. Say it again, It doesn’t have to be perfect to be beautiful! A flower arrangement (much like a garden) is fleeting, ephemeral, a snapshot of existence. Just enjoy it while it lasts, it will be different tomorrow.
Below is a step-by-step tutorial on how to create a centerpiece with spring flowering tree branches as a base. This poem by E.E. Cummings fits so well in my arborist/florist's heart. I hope it inspires you to gather some flower friends this spring and say hello. I would love to see your creations!
Spring is like a perhaps hand
by E. E. Cummings, 1894 - 1962
III
spring is like a perhaps
Hand in a window
(carefully to
and fro moving New and
Old things, while
people stare carefully
moving a perhaps
fraction of flower here placing
an inch of air there) andwithout breaking anything.
Spring is like a perhaps hand
(which comes carefully
out of Nowhere)arranging
a window, into which people look(while
people stare
arranging and changing placing
carefully there a strange
thing and a known thing here)andchanging everything carefully
Step 1
Tips Before We Begin
Floral Design is a Living Sculpture
As you go through the process of creating your floral sculpture keep these tips in mind:
Work in clusters
Create layers of blooms to build depth of field
Odd number groupings are pleasing to the eye
Negative space is important to let the eye rest
Helpful tools
A lazy susan similar to this one can be very helpful in accessing your arrangement as you build.
My favorite hand pruners for floral design and light yard work are the Japanese made Saboten 1210 Thinning Shear.
Green chicken wire or a floral frog and adhesive. I personally try to avoid floral foam while designing as most foam products are not environmentally friendly.
Step 2
Gather
Collect blooms and branches that complement each other. Working with one or two tones of the same color is an easy way to define the mood of your design. All of the plant materials I used I collected from our family farm.
Included in this design: Honeysuckle foliage, Crabapple, Korean Spice Viburnum, Redbud, Yellow dogwood, Flowering quince, Lenten rose, Ostrich fern, Solomons seal, and Daffodil
Step 3
Find Your Vessel/Vase
Secure it with a wire frame, preferably a floral frog (adhered with floral putty) or chicken wire rolled in a loose ball and add water.
Step 4
“Green Up” your vessel
Add large woody stems of foliage first to create a backbone for the design and to provide structure for more delicate blooms to rest. Keep turning your arrangement as you build to maintain balance. It’s easy to get focused on one side.
Included in this step: Honeysuckle
Step 5
Line Flowers: Work from the outside in
Leaving space in the center of the arrangement helps the design stay light and airy, like an actual garden. Use the branches that are most linear to create the structure of the design.
Included in this step: Crabapple + Flowering Quince
Step 6
Add focal blooms
Focal blooms are the heavy hitters of the design. It’s where the eye will be drawn first. Place these blooms at varying heights, creating high points and low points.
Included in this step: Korean Spice Viburnum (Its scent rivals the lilac in deliciousness!) + Lenten rose - my all time favorite flower
Step 7
Layer in filler flowers
Filler flowers are more delicate and tend to offer the texture a design seeks. Fuller, multi-stemmed blooms (such as or single, smaller blooms (such as ranunculus or sweet pea) are excellent filler flowers.
Included in this step: Solomon seal + Daffodil
** TIPS **
For hellebores (aka the Lenten Rose): to prevent the flowers from wilting slice lengthwise along the stem. This will allow more water to flow to the flower and your bloom will last significantly longer.
For daffodils: when cut, daffodils secrete a sap that can shorten the lifespan of other flower types in the same vase. To avoid this problem, place the cut daffodils in a separate vase for 30 minutes before adding them to the mixed arrangement.
Step 8
Add Some Magic
Small touches like a perfectly blooming redbud stem help make the arrangement extra special.
Included in this step: Redbud
Step 9
ENJOY!
Look at your arrangement from all angles. Check for balance and harmony. Ask yourself if each flower is being seen.
Remember - it doesn't have to be perfect to be beautiful.
Books to Inspire
I would love to see some of your spring arrangements by posting your photo on Instagram/Facebook and tag @RussellTreeExperts! Here are some of my favorite floral design books to further help inspire:
Flower House Detroit by Heather Saunders
Flowers Every Day by Florence Kennedy
Foraged Flora by Louesa Roebuck & Sarah Lonsdale
In Full Flower by Gemma & Andrew Ingalls
Bringing Nature Home by Ngoc Minh Ngo
Foraged Flower Arranging by Rebekah Clark Moody
Shari Russell | Managing Member & Co-Owner, Russell Tree Experts
Shari Russell graduated magna cum laude from The Ohio State University with a Bachelors in Landscape Horticulture and Cultural Anthropology. She is a member of the International Society of Arboriculture and has been a Certified Arborist since 2008. She is currently preparing for the June 2019 LSAT.
Mulch Mounds! Oh My!
Two days ago I stopped by the local gas station/grocery store compound around sunrise to replenish my truck’s fuel tank. As I drove on the service road passing the commercial property I felt something strange tugging at my peripheral vision, like large chocolate chips dotting the edge of my field of view. I took my eyes off the road for a moment, and sure enough, seemingly overnight the landscape had changed. It was as if a very large community of rodents had decided to move in and dig burrows in the landscape, leaving all the soil in regular mounds, perfectly spaced on the lawn. The next moment I saw that each mound had a tree growing out of it. Then the colors of breaking dawn also brought the light of knowledge to me as I realized “It’s spring, and the mulch mounders are at it again”.
WATCH OUT FOR MULCH MOUNDS
By José Fernández
Please note: This article was originally published on 4/15/2019 and was republished on 4/8/2021.
Two days ago I stopped by the local gas station/grocery store compound around sunrise to replenish my truck’s fuel tank. As I drove on the service road passing the commercial property I felt something strange tugging at my peripheral vision, like large chocolate chips dotting the edge of my field of view. I took my eyes off the road for a moment, and sure enough, seemingly overnight the landscape had changed. It was as if a very large community of rodents had decided to move in and dig burrows in the landscape, leaving all the soil in regular mounds, perfectly spaced on the lawn. The next moment I saw that each mound had a tree growing out of it. Then the colors of breaking dawn also brought the light of knowledge to me as I realized “It’s spring, and the mulch mounders are at it again”.
You know when these mysterious beings have been in your neighborhood because all of a sudden trees look like they decided to burst fully formed out of the soil, shouldering through the earth’s crust, leaving it mounded up at the base of their trunk. You know you have been visited by a very dedicated contingent of mounders when even telephone poles or street signs are enjoying the benefits of multiplying mulch. (Yes, though this sight was unrecorded, I have heard eyewitnesses testify to it).
Please forgive my attempts at humor. It really is light-hearted, and I bear no ill will to the people who deliver the mulch so generously. As an arborist, I do take issue with the practice itself though, for three main reasons that perhaps are not immediately evident to those trying to do a good deed:
The mulch mound around the base of this tree has caused new roots to grow around the root flare. These new roots are now girdling (choking) the tree causing it to decline (see lack of leaves/growth in the crown of the tree).
Mulch can create a hardened hydrophobic layer that actually sheds water. This effect is made worse when the mulch is mounded in a way that directs water away from the root crown of a tree, where all the roots are on a newly planted tree.
When the root crown is buried in such thick mulch, new roots start forming, trying to grow up to a more favorable place (the surface), where water and oxygen are more readily available. While they grow, they will likely stay contained within the mulch ring, which can contribute to a circular pattern of growth, causing girdling of the stem in later years. (See photo).
When enough water is provided to saturate the mulch, moisture will persist for longer periods of time around the trunk tissue. This, combined with warm temperatures from the composting process, provides a favorable environment for pathogens like bacteria and fungi to develop and cause disease.
Bad vs. Good mulching techniques // Proper mulching around a tree keeps the root flare visible while having about 2 inches of mulch depth on the root zone.
Why do we mulch anyway? For very good reasons. Established mulch rings help keep weeds away, help maintain moisture levels, provide organic matter for the soil (improving both chemistry and structure), and maintain a clear zone where mowers will not enter and cause soil compaction or mechanical damage to the tree. Like anything else in life, any good thing carried to an extreme usually ceases being a good thing. Overmulching actually defeats some of the reasons for mulching to begin with!
There you have it. Even the topic of mulch leads to a basic principle in life: Too much of a good thing… can lead away from what is good.
Here’s another one: Mulch mounders are people too, and I can live alongside them in peace as fellow human beings. But the practice of mounding mulch makes life difficult for trees. They can’t run away, they can’t open up their mouth and bawl for help. So I have to speak up for them if I can.
And I can.
Thank you for reading! I appreciate your comments and your thoughts.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
Tree Law: "Who Owns This Tree?"
First and most importantly, I am not an attorney. What I am is a concerned business owner who has an interest in the law. Having recently read Arboriculture and the Law co-authored by Victor D. Merullo and Michael J. Valentine, I am inclined to share my findings in hopes of answering a few common questions we receive every year dealing with liability basics and the general risks associated with tree ownership.
Boundary Line Tree: Neither of the property owners is at liberty to cut the [boundary line] tree without the consent of the other.
First and most importantly, I am not an attorney. What I am is a concerned business owner who has an interest in the law. Having recently read Arboriculture and the Law co-authored by Victor D. Merullo and Michael J. Valentine, I am inclined to share my findings in hopes of answering a few common questions we receive every year dealing with liability basics and the general risks associated with tree ownership.
“Who, in fact, owns this tree?” is a question our company is faced with each and every day. Tree ownership is a big deal. Owning a tree makes one responsible for the potential (and actual) damage caused by that tree if it fails, but when? What about when trees fail in severe weather events or the most baffling, when a tree that shows no signs of stress or decay uproots and fails anyway? All these questions are even more challenging when a tree grows directly on a property line or is encroaching on a neighbor’s property. If undesirable limbs, which originate from an adjoining neighbor’s tree, hang over your property line, what rights do you have in removing them? According to the authors’ research, some. “May I treat an ash tree to protect against the Emerald Ash Borer if the majority of the tree is located on my neighbor's property?” Good question. The answer: yes, and no.
Trees that grow directly on a property line (split directly down the middle) are called boundary line trees and are owned by both property owners as “tenants in common.” According to the authors, “neither of the property owners is at liberty to cut the [boundary line] tree without the consent of the other, nor to cut away the part which extends into the property owner’s land if the injury would result to the common property in the tree” (Merullo, Valentine, 1992, p. 24). For instance, if one of the tenants in common is to perform work to the tree which results in death to the tree, that may lead to legal consequences initiated by the other tenant. So although it may be tempting, one cannot simply cut the tree down the middle without expecting one fierce legal headache. Often times property lines are not clearly defined and it can be difficult for arborists to determine if a tree exists between two properties. When in doubt, before signing a tree contractor’s contract accepting full ownership, speak to your neighbor(s) and get written permission prior to any work to a boundary line tree. Maybe offer them warm chocolate chip cookies first.
Tenants in common of boundary line trees must respect the joint ownership of the tree completely whereas a tree that is not directly on the property line has different implications. “It is generally held that when a neighboring landowner’s tree limb hangs over an adjoining landowner’s property, the adjoining property owner has an absolute right to cut the tree limbs off the tree up to the property line” (Merullo, Valentine, 1992, p. 33). We often tell clients to imagine an imaginary vertical line (as if Luke Skywalker was pointing his lightsaber directly to the stars) running along the property line. All plant material that is on the client's side of the lightsaber, may be removed with confidence. However, a challenging issue we often face is the practicality of performing the tree work without the necessity of accessing the neighbor’s (non-client's) property. This can be especially hard when said neighbor may or may not be that into Star Wars if you know what I mean. We must respect private property and avoid trespassing at all times; as a result, there have been a handful of jobs we have not been able to commit to because the work could not be safely done without gaining access (and permission) to the adjoining property.
The Luke Skywalker property line pruning method
The issue of trespassing also weighs heavily in regards to Tree Wellness applications. As mentioned earlier, trees that are close to property lines can be difficult to treat properly without consent from both property owners. Perhaps the health of a beautiful ash tree that hangs over a property line is extremely important to one neighbor and not at all to the other - our arborists may only be able to treat the tree with trunk injections from one side, which means the tree may not be getting the best preventative care. The same goes for deep root fertilization which is ultimately beneficial if applied around the entire drip line of the tree canopy. Again, possibly improving one’s baking skills may lead to healthier, happier trees? It’s worth a try.
Our American beech tree that recently succumbed to high winds
Even if one crosses every t and dots every i, some things are beyond all control. I have seen it first hand in my own woods; large mature trees which look perfectly healthy one day are lying on the forest floor the next (see photo). Two certified arborists in one house, taking every precaution to protect family, property and the public and yet massive winds or sudden soil erosion uproot trees around us. Nature is unpredictable even to the trained eye, however what I read in chapter ten of the book was reassuring: “the landowner is exempt from liability for injuries caused by trees resulting from natural conditions, but the landowner will be responsible for injuries which the landowner could have taken measures to prevent” (Merullo, Valentine, 1992, p. 91). This is important because although some tree failures cannot be predicted, just like the weather, many are avoidable with the help of an educated, experienced arborist. Simply planting a tree properly in the right location can be the difference between long-lasting health and increased liability.
I can recall a serious tree failure in a Worthington neighborhood a few years ago. A very large, mature Siberian Elm tree suddenly uprooted and slammed to the street blocking traffic in both directions. This was and is a street children ride their bikes up and down and that I pushed a stroller along nearly every day. The reason the tree most likely failed? A paved driveway was installed too close to the trunk of the tree, cutting off and smothering the vital root system that exists in the top twelve inches of soil. It may take years before the compression from asphalt and the lack of water to roots from construction projects lead to catastrophe, which is a daunting reality for the unsuspecting homeowner. On a warm summer day after a night of heavy rain, the elm tree totally failed. By sheer luck (or perhaps a bi-conditional “act of God” ?), no one was injured.
Our team has collectively seen many unfortunate tree related situations which have helped us communicate the importance of knowing what it really means to own a tree. There are a few simple measures a homeowner can take to demonstrate an awareness of the risks associated with tree ownership and by doing so hopefully eliminate a great deal of legal stress. For instance, learning how to properly protect trees during construction or if installing a cabling system may mitigate the potential for tree failure under increased stress (from wind and/or ice) can be determined through a discussion with an experienced arborist.
Lastly, it may seem obvious that we begin all tree work with a signed contract from the person, company or municipality that hired us which states the client(s) have sole ownership of all trees listed on the quote however language clarifying this responsibility is not only to release Russell Tree Experts from liability, but because we recognize the work we do cannot be reversed. I hear Joe Russell often saying, “the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago.” As avid tree lovers, we recognize and appreciate that adage more than most. Mature, healthy trees are highly valuable and hard to come by. A personal goal of mine is for each of our clients to be able to look out their windows, gaze at their gorgeous trees and smile, big. If that isn’t possible yet, again with the cookies.
Shari Russell | Managing Member & Co-Owner, Russell Tree Experts
Shari Russell graduated magna cum laude from The Ohio State University with a Bachelors in Landscape Horticulture and Cultural Anthropology. She is a member of the International Society of Arboriculture and has been a Certified Arborist since 2008. She is currently preparing for the June 2019 LSAT.
Watch Out for Girdled Trees!
Quite regularly I encounter trees that are being girdled by some sort of material, mostly guy wires or straps installed during planting, and subsequently forgotten. Sometimes there are other things that catch me by surprise. Usually these are things placed by people and never maintained. For this article I will start with the most common girdling issue and then mention some of the other items.
Quite regularly I encounter trees that are being girdled by some sort of material, mostly guy wires or straps installed during planting, and subsequently forgotten. Sometimes there are other things that catch me by surprise. Usually these are things placed by people and never maintained. For this article I will start with the most common girdling issue and then mention some of the other items.
Illustration of a tree being girdled by a guy wire. ©Russell Tree Experts
Support Systems
There are various methods in use for supporting newly planted trees. From nylon webbing straps to wire run through hose, or just plain wire, it seems folks will reach for what is at hand to tie around a tree stem after planting to help support a tree. For this article I am not going to discuss proper guying methods. The most important thing to remember is that whatever guying system you, or someone else, has installed on your newly planted tree(s), the system should be checked periodically to make sure it is still functional without causing damage to the tree stem. Usually one season is all that is required for a tree support system installed at planting. Sometimes guying is not needed. This largely depends on whether the new tree is planted bare root or balled and burlapped.
At any rate, several times I have been called to investigate a strange phenomenon: A tree looks healthy in the lower part of the canopy, but the upper part is turning yellow and dying. On closer inspection, I will find the remains of a guy wire (or two, or three) buried into the tree stem, clearly marking the boundary between healthy tree below and strangled tree above. If I can remove the material the recovery of the tree is quite dramatic. If the material is too buried to be reached, tree survival is a question of whether the tree is able to bridge over the girdling with new stem growth or not. In rarer cases I have seen trees snap off at the place where a guy wire was buried in the stem causing a structural weakness.
I see this type of injury far more often than I would like, and far too often considering how easy it is to loosen a guy wire that is still needed or remove it if it has fulfilled its function. For support systems that need to be permanent, bolts drilled into the tree are a preferable option since the tree can easily grow around the bolt indefinitely.
Other Stem Girdling Culprits
The following list is made up of other things I have seen noticeably girdling tree trunks or branches, sometimes with negative effects on tree health:
Bird feeder hooks
Swings attached with rope, wire, or chain
Nylon twine on a root ball left in place after planting
Zip lines
Christmas lights installed and never removed
Ribbon
Tree identification tags attached at the nursery
Pictured above is an Emerald Green Arborvitae that is being girdled by a fabric ribbon used to help promote proper growth of the tree when it was much younger.
Some of these might come as a surprise since one would think that the material would degrade quickly and not cause a girdling problem. With ribbon in particular, I have seen ribbon so old the color has faded away, yet there is a noticeable groove in the trunk where the tree is beginning to be girdled. When I cut the ribbon with my knife it gives way with an audible tearing or snapping sound, showing there is still a lot of strength left in it. Granted, the ribbon might actually decompose before the tree begins to suffer irreparable damage, but I left it on my list simply to illustrate that anything attached to a tree should be maintained or removed if its purpose is fulfilled.
Trees lend themselves for usefulness, decoration, and personal expression. Sometimes trees need to be supported for a time, or indefinitely. Take a walk outside and look at your trees. Is there any girdling going on? Is it time to replace or remove a guy wire? Should you use a larger hook for your bird feeder? Is there burlap or twine strangling the base of the tree? Make the adjustments! Believe me, every little thing you can do in favor of the tree counts.
Thanks for caring about your trees!
PS - Read Chris’ great article about girdling roots by clicking here!
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.