Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 1]
In Ohio and much of the Midwest, many of the non-native trees and shrubs that can be found in the landscape are Asian in origin, due to the similar climate we share with that region of the world. This gives us a great opportunity to expand our options beyond native trees and shrubs when selecting suitable replacements or additions to our yards.
In Ohio and much of the Midwest, many of the non-native trees and shrubs that can be found in the landscape are Asian in origin, due to the similar climate we share with that region of the world. This gives us a great opportunity to expand our options beyond native trees and shrubs when selecting suitable replacements or additions to our yards. Some non-native trees, such as Japanese maples, have become staples in our landscapes. In this article, we’ll discuss the Japanese katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum), a medium to large tree in maturity that is largely underutilized in the midwestern landscape, but might just be the perfect tree for your property.
The Japanese katsura tree is native to Japan and parts of China. Though it can grow to more than 100’ in height in its native wild habitat, it will generally reach 40-60’ in a landscape setting. Because of its larger size, the Japanese katsura tree should be planted in a location where it has room to grow and eventually become a shade tree.
The Japanese katsura tree has rounded, heart-shaped leaves and is deciduous (dropping its leaves in autumn). It has a wonderful yellow to slightly orange fall color that is accompanied by a distinctive smell, often described as burnt brown sugar or cotton candy, when the leaves begin to fall and decay. It prefers full sun but some protection from the wind, is generally insect and disease-free, and has a medium to fast growth rate under ideal conditions. It has a pyramidal shape when young, but matures into a more rounded canopy, reaching 30-40’ in width.
The Japanese katsura tree will tolerate the alkaline and clay soils often found in central Ohio, but it does prefer consistently moist and well drained soils (as do many trees!). For this reason, it’s important to give the tree a great start in the landscape with proper planting and after care for the first 1-2 years.
When younger, the Japanese katsura tree does have thinner bark, so it's trunk should be protected if you tend to have deer activity in your yard, as the antler rubbing from male whitetail deer in the late summer and early fall can severely damage or kill a tree. Also, care should be taken to maintain a mulch ring or landscape bed around the tree, as thinner barked trees are generally more susceptible to mechanical damage from mowers and string trimmers.
Overall, the Japanese katsura tree is a great choice for a central Ohio landscape. If you’re looking to plant a tree this year, be sure to do so in the spring or fall when temperatures and soil moisture are favorable, and give the Japanese katsura tree some consideration. It’s a great alternative option to our native shade trees, and will add wonderful form, color, and variety to your landscape.
The Entire 3-PArt series:
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Right of Way: Understanding City-Owned Trees
Many people assume that they are responsible for the trees located in their lawns in front of their homes. In many cases, this is not true.
Many people assume that they are responsible for the trees located in their lawns in front of their homes. In many cases, this is not true.
Many cities and municipalities maintain what is called a “right of way” in front of your property and sometimes in the back as well. I have worked for three different communities over my career, and all three had different policies regarding “street trees”, as they are usually called.
Many communities simply create an ordinance passing that responsibly to the property owner, but in central Ohio, there are several communities that have created forestry departments that maintain trees located in the city “right of way.” That’s where the tricky part comes in as there are many different approaches in how each department operates. We (Russell Tree Experts) are currently completing several tree pruning contracts for different communities in central Ohio at this time. Some communities have arborists on staff to complete their work and contract some as well.
Most communities in central Ohio allow the property owner to maintain their city-owned trees if it is completed without harming the tree and completed in a professional manner. Some communities require that a tree company working on city trees must be registered with the city and have a certified arborist on staff. In most cases, removing a city-owned tree is not allowed without prior approval and it can be quite costly (fines) if you remove a city tree without permission.
Finding out what the “right of way” is prior to any work is always a good idea. Most communities can provide that info over the phone. Another good resource in Franklin County is the auditor site. If you pull up your address you can go into mapping where you can determine the right of ways associated with your property.
In the above example, the red line is property line. Trees outside of these lines would likely be the city’s responsibility - depending on the city’s rules. [the above is a screenshot for the Franklin County Auditor Site.]
Most people do not realize that in some cases the right of way can extend well beyond the sidewalk. If you have an alley behind your property, there may be some easement associated with that as well. In the communities that I have worked for, the alley “right of way” was only the width of the pavement. If your property is a corner lot or surrounded by streets, you may not be responsible for near as many trees as you once thought.
In closing, I would highly recommend that you identify which trees you are responsible for prior to hiring an arborist. This could save you a lot of money in the long run. Not only if you are not responsible, but so you don’t cut down or improperly prune a city-owned tree, and get fined.
Questions? Comment below and we’ll get back to you.
What to learn more? Check out the article “Tree Law: Who Owns This Tree?” written by Shari Russell which details who owns a tree when it grows on a property line.
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Spotted Lanternfly: They Are Getting Close!
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries.
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries. The preferred host is the infamous Tree of Heaven which initially may sound like good news; let’s have an invasive insect wipe out an invasive plant! (See TJ’s article about Tree of Heaven). However, Tree of Heaven is not its only target. If Tree of Heaven isn’t around, it will simply jump onto the nearest tree until it finds something it likes. SLF has been documented feeding on over 100 different species of plants. The most susceptible, other than Tree of Heaven, is Grapevine, apple and peach trees, hops, blueberries, Black Walnuts, and Maples, but again, this pest doesn't discriminate! Another reason why it is so invasive is that it doesn’t have any natural predators. The flashy color on the Spotted Lanternfly warns potential predators that “I don’t taste good!”
The OSU Extension office is currently researching best treatment options. Unfortunately, so far, they do not have any recommendations but we are watching the situation closely and when we have more information, we will give everyone an update. For now, it’s important to be aware of the potential infestation in your area and monitor. If you see any suspected SLF activity, report it to the OSU Extension office and they will confirm.
What can we do to slow the spread?
Known areas of infestation in Pennsylvania have a quarantine mandate requiring to go through a checklist before traveling or moving within or out of the quarantined area. In Ohio, the Department of Agriculture has put together this checklist to help slow the spread of this pest.
If eggs are found, you can scrape the eggs into a bag to seal them/crush them or kill them in an alcohol solution. During these early stages of spread, it is important to document anything you find; please take pictures of any suspected Spotted Lanternfly or collect a sample if possible and send it to the OSU Extension office along with the location you collected the sample.
So far, six populations of Spotted Lanternfly in been confirmed in Ohio:
To do now:
Look for egg masses. They lay eggs from September-December and are hard to see but we need to search and destroy them! The eggs will start hatching this spring, likely around May (GDD 270).
Late spring/early summer:
When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.
In Review
To review, Spotted Lanternfly is an invasive insect that is on the move and we need to try and stop the spread. Its primary host is Tree of Heaven but it can feed on the sap of over 70 different species of plants. When travelling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas. If found, please report it to the OSU Extension office so we can help better understand this insect. We will keep everyone up to date (check our ARBOR ED™ section) on any new information and let you all know if we receive any news about confirmed populations in our area.
[Images courtesy of Ohio State University Extension, New Jersey DOA, Pennsylvania DOA / Drawings by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
The 3 Cut Method
There are times when the professionals at Russell Tree Experts should be utilized, although I realize there may be situations when removing a single branch is something very achievable by you, the homeowner.
By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6806A
February 13, 2025
[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 2/13/25 from its original publish date of 6/30/21]
There are times when the professionals at Russell Tree Experts should be utilized, although I realize there may be situations when removing a single branch is something very achievable by you, the homeowner. I feel it's safe to assume if you're reading this article, you have a bit of a green thumb and you like to get your hands dirty by maintaining as much of your landscape as possible. This article isn't to dive deep into the various pruning techniques or strategies we use in the field, rather, it's to help homeowners make proper pruning cuts on trees throughout their property. Keep in mind, even though you may have seen us swinging about your trees like monkeys, we're trained to do so in the safest manner possible and I discourage you from putting yourself in harm’s way pruning your tree(s).
The reasons for pruning a branch or limb from a tree are vast. Whether it's removing a pesky branch that keeps slapping you in the face during weekly lawn maintenance to getting rid of that one dead branch that you see every time you look out your window, I'm here to help you make a cut that will ultimately compartmentalize naturally.
Trees have a natural response known as CODIT (Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees) which allows them to wall-off or seal wounds to help prevent decay or entry of harmful diseases. Cuts that are too flush with the parent stem (or left too long) are unlikely to seal properly and could potentially degrade the health of your tree.
key branch landmarks
So, now, let's get into the nitty-gritty of proper pruning cuts. It's critical to be able to identify key branch landmarks that help guide where your final cut will be: the 'Branch Bark Ridge' and the 'Branch Collar'. The branch bark ridge can be seen as the raised strip of bark on top of the branch where it joins with the main parent stem or trunk of the tree. The branch collar is the slightly raised or swollen portion around the sides and bottom of the branch, this portion may or may not be distinguishable. The imaginary line connecting these two landmarks determines where the final cut should be made.
Step by step: The 3 Cut Method
To begin, whether using a handsaw/polesaw/chainsaw, I'll teach you how to remove a branch using the 3 cut method:
1st Cut / Bottom cut
Create a cut on the underside (undercut) of the branch roughly 1/3 of the way through. This is a crucial step in the branch removal process as it eliminates the risk of the branch peeling down and further harming the tree.
2nd Cut / Top Cut
Next is a second distal cut on top of the limb (further from the trunk) to remove the limb (topcut).
3rd Cut / Final cut
Now, with only a stub remaining, is when you should identify that imaginary line I described above. This will be the site for your final cut that will eventually seal properly as long as the tree is healthy and capable.
How-to Video: The 3 Cut Method
I’m not the biggest fan of being on camera so I’ve asked Kenny Greer (Our marketing guy at Russell Tree Experts) to demonstrate the 3 Cut Method in the below video! Check it out!
proper pruning results
A proper final cut will become a minor blemish guarding your tree against decay and harmful organisms. Here are some beautiful examples:
Please Note — In the past, it was believed that paint would help seal fresh wounds, although this has since been proven to only slow down the natural CODIT process. Can any of you guess when we would apply this "wound paint?" If you'd like to find out, I encourage you to read Lindsey Rice’s ARBOR ED™ article on oak wilt and dutch elm disease, my fellow coworker and ISA Certified Arborist®!
Questions? Comments? Leave them below and we will get back to you as soon as possible! Thanks for reading and watching! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Mike Wilson | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 12 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!
What's Wrong with my Sycamore & Maple?
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?" "Why is my American sycamore bare this year” …To answer these questions, we need to go back to a chilly, wet evening 5 weeks ago. On May 5th, the temperature dropped overnight to 41 degrees just after an early morning shower that day. We continued this cool, wet trend for 10 lousy days, and…
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?""Why is my American sycamore bare this year?"By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
May 22, 2025
Anthracnose fungus attacks newly emerging leaves in the spring when the weather is just right for disease development. The symptoms vary from host to host, but typically infected leaves will have irregular dark spots along veins. Eventually, the leaf will curl, die, and fall. In the case of the sycamore, often the leaf buds are killed before they have even had a chance to emerge.
[Sugar Maple leaf before and after anthracnose fungus]
Anthracnose fungus affects many deciduous trees and seems to be most noticeable this year on sycamore and maple in our area. I have had at least 10 customers per week concerned that their beloved trees were dying due to this fungus. I have also been driving by my favorite American sycamores around my home, only to find them very sparsely leafed and struggling. This includes Upper Arlington's oldest tree, an amazing 3 stemmed beauty that our team pruned a few months ago.
[American Sycamore leaves with anthracnose fungus]Thankfully, I have wonderful news for the stewards of these afflicted trees. Anthracnose is a cosmetic disease for the majority of trees! If the tree is otherwise healthy and well established, it will be just fine. It will replace those lost leaves in July when conditions no longer favor anthracnose development.
How can you help trees with this seasonal infection?
Water your trees during our hot, dry summers! Concentrate the water at the ground level only, do not splash the leaves. All trees will appreciate the extra water, but those that have lost their leaves and are attempting to replace them will relish it! ARTICLE: HOW TO WATER YOUR TREES
Prune your trees for better air circulation and light penetration. This will help the leaves dry faster and it will be harder for the fungus to spread.
Dispose of affected leaves so that the spores are not hanging around next year to re-infect your tree.
Consider fertilizing your trees in the spring so that they have the needed nutrients to stay healthy (and possibly put on 2 sets of leaves if it is another good year for anthracnose infection).
Above all, do not panic! We cannot control the weather or the fungus. Just concentrate on overall tree health and by mid-summer, the trees will have recovered and this disease will be just a bad memory. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speaker to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 6/14/2021 and was revised on 5/22/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]
Understanding Conifers
Understanding conifers should begin with a few simple definitions to clarify and classify. A conifer is a plant that bears its seeds in cones. When we hear the word cone, we likely think of pine and spruce trees, two types of coniferous trees that are widely found throughout Central Ohio and beyond. Their cones are obvious when they fall and scatter on the ground surrounding the tree. But did you know that yews (Taxus) and junipers are also conifers?
Avocados can be tricky. You buy them green, and the next day they’re still not ripe. The day after that they’re still not ripe. Then, the day after that they’ve all gone bad! To be clear, avocados don’t come from conifers. But I’m often reminded of avocados when homeowners contact us regarding concerns they have about their conifers. Conifers, like ripening avocados, can also be tricky. A row of ‘Emerald Green’ Arborvitae can appear to be fine, and then seemingly overnight, half of them are DEAD! A mature white pine can appear to “almost die” every second or third year. These issues can be understandably frustrating and can give us the false notion that these plants are hard to grow. Understanding the ways in which they’re different from other plants in the landscape can help in successfully caring for conifers and allowing them to thrive.
Understanding conifers should begin with a few simple definitions to clarify and classify. A conifer is a plant that bears its seeds in cones. When we hear the word cone, we likely think of pine and spruce trees, two types of coniferous trees that are widely found throughout Central Ohio and beyond. Their cones are obvious when they fall and scatter on the ground surrounding the tree. But did you know that yews (Taxus) and junipers are also conifers? Both bear their seeds in a fruit-like structure that is often incorrectly referred to as a berry. These berry-like fruits are actually cones, botanically speaking. Some other common conifers in Central Ohio include arborvitae, hemlocks, and firs. Because the foliage of most conifers is evergreen, meaning it does not fall off each year with the cycle of the seasons, the terms evergreen and conifer are often used interchangeably. Doing so, however, is not completely accurate. It’s important to understand that the term evergreen also refers to some broadleaf plants like rhododendron, holly, boxwood, and others. These plants are evergreens, but not conifers.
Conifers belong to a very ancient classification of plants and are different from non-coniferous plants in a number of ways. Below are a few of their key characteristics that often confuse homeowners (and sometimes even otherwise qualified arborists!). Knowing what to expect and how to care for conifers is the first step in successfully maintaining them in your landscape.
Seasonal Needle Drop
Japanese White Pine experiencing fall foliage
Even though most conifers are evergreens, their evergreen foliage still eventually falls off. Some very common conifers in Central Ohio, like pines, yews, and arborvitae, will drop a significant amount of their inner foliage every 2-3 years as part of a natural occurrence of cyclical needle drop. This can be alarming if you’re not familiar with the process. When it happens, the important thing to recognize is that it’s happening uniformly throughout the entire plant, and all of the browning/yellowing foliage is further back on the branch. These are the needles that are 2-3 years old and have reached the end of their life cycle. You might also look around your neighborhood to see if the same tree or shrub in other landscapes is doing the exact same thing, and at the same time. This process will never occur on the tips of the branches. If you have needles that are discoloring and falling off from the very tip or end of the branch, it is likely due to other factors and may indicate a disease, insect, or watering issue.
Delayed Response to Stress
A dead ‘Emerald Green’ Arborvitae due to drought stress
Perhaps the most challenging thing about conifers, specifically evergreen conifers, is that they do not give immediate feedback from water-related stress or injury. Herbaceous annuals like impatiens and petunias will let you know almost immediately when they are low on water by wilting excessively. Many deciduous trees, when first planted, will also show signs of wilting foliage relatively quickly when their roots become dry. This type of visual feedback is often what reminds us to get outside and water our newly installed landscape trees or shrubs. Coniferous evergreens, on the other hand, can have a delay of weeks or even months before they show obvious signs of drought stress. The reason this is an issue is simple; by the time we see it, the damage may be too extensive to reverse. It’s important to thoroughly and properly water any newly planted trees or shrubs. Don’t over-rely on in-ground irrigation, which often does not water for a long enough span of time to properly soak the ground, or may not thoroughly cover an area, leading to “dead zones” that receive little to no water at all. Proper watering regimes should be followed for the first season, and supplemental watering may be beneficial in subsequent years during very dry months. Watering in the fall is important too. This helps to keep roots moist once the ground freezes. Inadequate levels of water in the soil during freezing temperatures can rob a plant’s roots of water and lead to winter desiccation. Oftentimes we see this show up late winter or even early in spring.
Limited Regrowth with Pruning
The proper pruning of conifers varies from that of their non-coniferous counterparts. Many landscape shrubs and even a few tree species can be pruned aggressively to maintain a certain size or habit without adversely affecting the health and longevity of the plant. Many conifers, however, are not tolerant of heavy pruning that removes the majority of the foliage from a stem or branch. Junipers provide a classic example of a plant that cannot be pruned back to bare wood. Once this is done, the exposed area will not fill in with new growth. Pine, spruce, and fir are also examples of conifers that will not produce enough new growth on over-pruned parts of the plant. One example of a conifer that is an exception to this rule is the yew. When cut back aggressively, yews can and do generate enough new growth (slowly) on old, bare branches. Knowing how to properly prune conifers requires a good understanding of each plant species’ characteristics and habits, and may be best left to a professional arborist.
Healthy Dawn Redwood trees in the fall
Finally, it’s worth noting that a few types of conifers succeed in inciting worry and confusion whenever a home changes hands and the new owners are unfamiliar with the trees in the landscape. These are of course the deciduous conifers. Two deciduous conifers can be found commonly throughout Central Ohio landscapes- the dawn redwood and bald cypress. These trees will naturally lose their needles every year just like a Maple or Ash loses its leaves. As mentioned previously, most of us equate conifer with evergreen. So to see this occur for the first time and not understand what’s happening, one might assume the tree is dying for some unknown reason.
Conifers do things a bit differently, which can make them a little harder to understand. Answers to your coniferous questions are always just a phone call away at Russell Tree Experts. The unique characteristics mentioned above are just a few of the many reasons you should entrust your trees, all of them, to a qualified professional tree care company. Otherwise, your new neighbor, though his intentions are good, might just tell you to cut down that dawn redwood that keeps “dying” every year.
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
When and How to Prune Lilacs
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
March 6, 2025
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
When To Prune
As a general rule for all lilacs, they should be pruned immediately after they’re done flowering in the spring. Since lilacs set next year’s flower buds right after the current year’s flowers have faded, pruning later in the summer or fall will result in cutting off many or all of next year’s flowers. This rule of timing applies to the larger common lilacs as well as the cultivars that are shorter or more “shrub” like. While the “when” of pruning lilacs is fairly straightforward, the “how” gets a little trickier. To keep things simple for now, we’ll think of lilac pruning as either maintenance pruning or rejuvenation pruning.
How To: Maintenance Pruning
For any lilac shrubs that have not outgrown their space or are still producing vibrant flowers each year, regular pruning can simply consist of any shaping that you choose to do along with removal of dead, diseased, or broken stems. You can also remove spent flowers from your lilacs to help encourage a cleaner growth habit and appearance. It’s always better to do this type of pruning by hand, rather than shearing. When making cuts, try to cut back to an outward facing bud. A good pair of hand pruners is the perfect tool for this and makes for much better pruning cuts than hedge shears.
How To: Rejuvenation Pruning
If you’ve ever had an older common lilac in your landscape that went unpruned for many years, you’re probably familiar with their overgrown, unruly habit when left alone. Many people mistakenly believe that these shrubs have stopped flowering at this point. Oftentimes what’s actually happening is the flowers are being produced on just the upper portions of the shrub where the plant has reached a taller height and is exposed to sunlight. Once they’ve reached this stage, we’re often left to stare at bare, woody branches at eye level and below. For these overgrown shrubs, we can remove entire older canes or stems that are 2” in diameter or larger to encourage a rejuvenation of the shrub. We want to apply the rule of thirds when doing this type of pruning - Remove approximately one third of the older canes or stems each year for 3 years. This gives the shrub a chance to slowly transition back to a fuller, shorter shrub with more new growth filling in from the bottom. If you decide to drastically prune the entire shrub this way all at once rather than just a third of it, a little extra care like fertilization and watering will be important to encourage new growth. Note that this “all at once” approach is generally not recommended for the health of the shrub.
Your lilac flowers can be influenced by many things, including the temperature, soil conditions, even disease and insect problems, but proper pruning goes a long way to ensuring they put on a great show every spring. And remember, if you have specific questions about pruning or anything tree and shrub related, your dedicated Russell Tree Experts arborist is only an email or phone call away.
*New* Video!
To accompany the above article, Walter Reins demos how to prune lilac trees in this new video! Click below!
Please note: This article was originally published on 4/6/2020 and was republished on 3/6/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.
Don’t Get Fooled by the Fall Color of Conifers!
Every fall I get calls from folks concerned about yellow needles on their evergreen trees. Often times I’m told that the trees are sick or that they appear to be dying from the inside out. There are some disease and insect problems that can cause yellowing and premature loss of needles in conifers but most often what people are reporting is just normal fall color.
By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
November 13, 2025
Every fall I get calls from folks concerned about yellow needles on their evergreen trees. Often times I’m told that the trees are sick or that they appear to be dying from the inside out. There are some disease and insect problems that can cause yellowing and premature loss of needles in conifers but most often what people are reporting is just normal fall color.
Yellowing and the loss of old needles in the fall is normal for pine, spruce, arborvitae, hemlock and most evergreen conifers in the midwest. Most conifers shed their needles each year starting in late August and continue through November. Older interior needles will turn yellow while needles further out in the canopy and at the tips of branches will stay green. The yellow needles eventually drop off starting at the top of the tree and working their way to the bottom in a uniform fashion. Taxus (also called Yew) is the exception showing it’s “fall color” in mid to late spring.
Most folks understand and look forward to the fall color change in our maples, oaks, hickories and other hardwood trees — fall needle drop in conifers is as normal as leaf drop in deciduous trees.
The change in color and eventual drop of foliage is simply a physiological response to the shorter days and cooler temperatures as trees (both evergreen and deciduous) prepare themselves for the winter.
Pictured below are some of my favorite conifers showing fall color:
Please note: This article was revised on 11/12/25 and originally published on 11/28/18.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.