✅Purple Robe Black Locust

General Info

• Latin Name - Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Purple Robe’
• Native Range - Pennsylvania to Georgia, West to Iowa, Missouri and Oklahoma
• Growth Rate - Fast
• Mature Height - 30–50’
• Mature Spread - 20–35’

Arborist Thoughts

• One of the prettiest forms of Black Locust with dark pink to purple flowers that resemble wisteria.
• This fast-growing, urban tolerant tree is easy to grow and an excellent choice for challenging sites.
• Good tree where dappled shade is desired

✅Valley Forge American Elm

General Info

• Latin Name - Ulmus americana ‘ Valley Forge’
• Native Range - Northern Canada to Florida west to the Rocky Mountains.
• Growth Rate - Medium to Fast
• Mature Height - 60–80’
• Mature Spread - 30–50’

Arborist Thoughts

• tree of great historical significance, American Elm once lined the streets of the Midwest and New England before the accidental introduction of Dutch Elm Disease.   Much breeding and selection work has been done to develop Dutch Elm Disease resistant cultivated varieties and reintroduce the American Elm into our landscapes and streets.   ‘Valley Forge’ is reported to have the highest tolerance to the Dutch Elm disease.  Other resistant cultivars to consider are ‘Princeton’ and ‘Jefferson.’

• American Elm is an urban tolerant, adaptable, easy to grow tree with nice fall color.   If you are looking for a fast-growing shade tree for your landscape, this is one to consider.

Did You Know Construction Can Kill Trees?

We see it all the time: trees surrounding a newly built home dying as a result of soil compaction and mechanical damage from heavy machinery, as well as change in the native grade affecting soil depth and water flow. A tree preservation plan is needed prior to construction which prioritizes your woody landscape as an important part of your construction project. With a Pre-Construction Tree Preservation Consultation from Arbor Answers, our experts will build a custom plan for your construction site to encourage the trees to thrive following the completion of the project. 

Options for the Pre-Construction Tree Preservation Consultation:

• On-site meeting to discuss construction plan and desired trees on the property
• Customized plan to help protect your trees during and after construction
• Installation of temporary fencing to give trees proper perimeters (if needed)
• Installation of temporary root zone protection (if needed)

Contact us before you build to maintain the beautiful wooded landscape you desire!

Ask an Arborist: When is the best time of year to get trees trimmed?

The dormant season is a great time of year to prune your trees, Sandra. This is basically from October through May. In the dormant season, the leaves are off so it is easier to see structural defects within the canopy of your tree. It is also a time of year when there are fewer insect and disease issues that sometimes or attracted to fresh pruning wounds. Sometimes customers have concerns about our cruise being able to identify dead limbs when there are no leaves. This is done by looking closely at the bark and if needed, the color of the cambium layer with a small scratch on the bark of each branch. Long story short: Now is a great time to trim your trees!

-Joe Russell, Russell Tree Experts

Poplar Weevil

On Monday, June 11th, TJ shared some leaf samples he had collected in the field. These leaves were marked with feeding damage from a small black insect he also had collected to show us. I had never seen or heard of this critter before that day, but TJ's sharing could not have been more timely. Since then I have had the opportunity to see evidence of plant damage by the Yellow Poplar Weevil from Ostrander to New Albany.

Here at Russell Tree Experts we have had an ongoing conversation about how to treat this pest, and if treatment is necessary. I did a little research initially and confirmed what TJ had shared with us: the insect has only one generation per year, and the damage to the leaves of Tulip Poplar, Magnolia, or Sassafras trees is mainly aesthetic and does not require treatment. This is to be contrasted with a spider mite infestation, for example, where multiple generations can cause a huge outbreak in a short period of time causing great damage to a plant.

This information was consistent with what we found in the field that week. The following week everything changed, when TJ and I went out to inspect a young Tulip Poplar that had been in the ground for about a year. From a distance my first thought was that the tree had not been watered, for every leaf except a few in the inner canopy looked completely brown and dead. When we walked up to the tree we were amazed to find the largest population of Yellow Poplar Weevil we had seen to date. They were so numerous that the adult feeding damage had almost completely browned out the leaves. As TJ went for the garden hose to try to spray the weevils off, he realized his fluorescent green Russell Tree Experts T-shirt was covered in weevils. They either liked his shirt or his aura (or his odor?) because I was left out of this meeting between arborist and insect. This was good. Not so good when TJ helplessly let out a yelp when one of the weevils bit him on the back of the neck. This was something our research had not warned us about! But as I look back I think the bite was friendly. Or romantic.

After we realized the hose was not going to get rid of the clouds of flying adults, we made the decision that with serious outbreaks like this one, the best thing to do was to apply a topical spray to kill off the adults. This we would follow up with an application of a systemic insecticide next spring labeled for weevils in case we should have a second outbreak next year.

Presently I think the damage has been slowing down as adults prepare to descend back into the duff at the base of the trees. I have been an ISA Certified Arborist for 9 years in the Columbus area and this is the first year I encountered this pest. Indeed, TJ told me he had spoken with a couple of older arborists who remembered an outbreak "around 20 years ago", and "a long time ago".

Here is a helpful link to read up on the insect if you have been seeing this in your landscape:
http://bugs.osu.edu/bugdoc/Shetlar/factsheet/ornamental/FSyellowpopweevil.htm

Points to Remember:

• IMPORTANT: Though TJ claims he was bitten, these insects are not known as biting or stinging insects. I have handled them many times, had them drop onto me from trees, and have never suffered any harm. TJ's experience was special. Weevils are not really evil. Or romantically inclined.

• Only one generation per year, so what you have now is all you will get.

• Damage is usually minimal, and does not require treatment.

• If population is high for your plant, a topical spray is recommended to kill the adults. Spring follow up with a systemic may be recommended in case we have another outbreak next year.

Call Russell Tree Experts for any questions related to this or any other issue with your trees!

Imprelis damage on pines and spruces

I’ve recently responded to several clients who needed an ISA Certified Arborist to evaluate their trees for Imprelis damage.  In cases like this, it is easy to walk up to a tree such as a  White Pine or a spruce, see the familiar symptoms of Imprelis damage from a distance and make the conclusion that Imprelis was the culprit causing the dead, curled stems at the top of the canopy.  

This is a prime example of having to set aside preconceived ideas about what may be wrong with a tree.  First, the thought of Imprelis has been introduced by the client, which tells me that Imprelis has been in use at the property.  Second, the tree in question is a tree known to be susceptible to Imprelis damage. Third, as I approach the tree the symptoms look like Imprelis.  As an arborist, I have to slow down, set aside the preconceptions, and look closely at the tree, as White Pine Weevil (WPW) is another common problem to pines and spruces that causes symptoms somewhat similar to those caused by Imprelis.

During the past two weeks, I have had the above scenario play out in 3-4 instances, enough times that I thought it worthwhile to write about.  Though the symptoms and the host trees are similar, there are some differences worth pointing out:

1. With Imprelis damage, the affected tips are usually spread throughout the canopy. With WPW usually only one stem (sometimes more) will be affected, and this will almost always be the top stem in the tree. However, I have seen trees lightly damaged by Imprelis that showed symptoms on only one or two stems, and those were in the top of the tree as well.
   

2. Imprelis typically causes unnatural swelling of buds and stems. Not so with WPW.
   

3. WPW can cause a distinctive sap flow which can be seen from the ground if present.
   

4. If the culprit is WPW, careful inspection will reveal exit holes coming from the damaged stem of the tree. If it is possible to prune the dead tip out to make a close inspection, signs of WPW will be unmistakable if that is the culprit.

I have seen one spruce with light Imprelis damage that also  had WPW.  This needed to be taken into account so both problems could be addressed in the diagnosis.

Moral of the story?  Approach every tree, every client, every person, with a blank slate.  It is easy to look at trees and people with preconceived notions getting in the way of an accurate and fair appraisal, and people, like trees, do not respond well to incorrect treatment.

Your friendly neighborhood arborist, 

 José F.

Asian Longhorned Beetle

In August of 2012, Joe Russell, TJ Nagel and José Fernández made a trip down to Cincinnati to hear Joe Boggs,  entomologist and OSU Extension Educator in the Cincinnati area, give a talk on Asian Longhorned Beetle (ALB).  Following are some quick facts from lecture notes and from www.beetlebusters.info presented as FAQs:

Q: Where does ALB come from, and is it in Ohio?
A: ALB is native to eastern Asia, specifically to China and the Koreas.  Interestingly, it was introduced to Japan, but was successfully eradicated. ALB was first reported in Ohio on June 17th, 2011 in southwestern Ohio, Clermont County.  Based on DNA testing, this infestation came from Asia, and is unrelated to other infestations in the United States.  We do not know how it came to Ohio.

Q: How long has ALB been in North America?
A: ALB has been in North America since 1996, where it was discovered in Brooklyn, NY.

Q: What areas are quarantined in Ohio, and what does this mean?
A: Regulated materials, including firewood, stumps, roots, branches, debris and other material –living, dead, cut, or fallen- from all hardwood species, nursery stock and logs of ALB host trees cannot be moved out of a regulated (quarantined) area.  The Ohio Department of Agriculture (ODA) has established three regulated areas within Clermont County and will continue to update the status of these areas as needed. 

Q: What trees are at risk?
A: Very good hosts, in order of pest favor, are all maples, horse chestnut, elm, and willow.  However, the beetle will attack 13 different genera of trees, including all species within the genera.  Some other common trees that are vulnerable are birch, sycamore, poplar, mimosa, and hackberry.

Q: General eradication (at the forest level) of Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) was a goal that proved to be expensive and sometimes unachievable.  How can we say ALB can be contained and eradicated?
A: EAB and ALB are very different beetles, both in their rate of reproduction, ability or desire to spread and feeding habits, among other things.  To be considered eradicated, no beetles can be found within a period of three years in a zone that was previously infested.  This requirement has been met in Chicago, IL, Hudson County, NJ, and Islip, NY.  Currently, there are other locations in NY and NJ that are undergoing eradication, as well as Massachusetts and Ohio. As for EAB, eradication on a large scale is not practical, but there are several proven methods that arborists use to successfully protect individual Ash trees from infestation, even where pest pressure is very high.

Q: What does the beetle look like?  What do I do if I think I found one?
A: I found the Chinese name for ALB to be a good way to remember how it looks.  In China, ALB is called “Starry Night Beetle”, because it is black with irregular white spots on its back.  It has very long, black and white banded antennae, and is a large beetle, measuring 1 to 1 ½ inches long.  Another way to spot the beetle is by their activity.  Look for perfectly round, nearly dime-sized exit holes in trees, with noticeable amounts of sawdust (frass) built up on the limbs or on the ground.  Limbs weakened by the large exit holes can break readily in a windstorm as well.

If you spot one, call Russell Tree Experts for one of our arborists to come out and make an inspection, or go to beetlebusters.info for more information.

Q: Can ALB be controlled without destroying the tree?A: Due to lack of space, I cannot go into details here.  It may be controlled, but there is difficulty due to the different feeding habits in each developmental stage.  Currently, a tree found with ALB will be cut down and destroyed.  The beetle is considered to be one of the most destructive and costly invasive species ever to enter the United States.

Forest Service Report to congress:
http://www.fs.fed.us/aboutus/budget/requests/DDBR428_Emerald_Ash_Borer_report_to_Congress.pdf

APHIS Fact Sheet:
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/publications/plant_health/2011/fs_ohio_regulated_area.pdf

How to Water Your Trees

How do I water my new trees?

Believe it or not, there is more to watering a tree than simply spraying it with a hose once in a while.  Properly watering a tree will ensure that the tree establishes well at its new location, developing strong, deep roots that will sustain it through periods of drought as it matures.  Please note that this article will not deal with how to properly plant a tree, although how the tree is planted does influence how water enters into the root zone.  

First of all, you need to know what type of soil you have.  In central Ohio, heavy clay soils are most common, and almost guaranteed if you live in a newer housing development where the soil structure is far from normal due to common construction practices.  If you happen to have a sandier soil than commonly found in Ohio, you will need to adjust your watering accordingly.

A few things to keep in mind:
1. Roots grow where there is water and oxygen
2. Roots, and therefore trees, do best when moisture levels remain constant.  Moisture does not mean saturation.
3. When you water a tree, water will infiltrate the soil, percolating through the soil profile as it drains through.  This drainage is essential for proper oxygen levels to remain in the soil.

Newly planted trees lost a large part of their root zone when they were dug at the nursery to bring them to your landscape.  Because of this, maintaining proper moisture levels is essential.  As we want to encourage deep root growth, we need to get the water down to the bottom of the root ball.  To do this, slow watering is required to allow the water to soak into the soil without running off.  

The method I prefer is using a soaker hose looped around the root zone of the tree.  I monitor moisture levels every couple of days and run the soaker hose for a couple of hours if needed. More for larger trees. In cooler weather, such as spring and fall, watering will be less frequent.  In hot, dry summer weather, watering will be more frequent.  I hesitate to tell folks to water "every 2-3 days" or "once per week" because I don't want to add water when it is not needed.  Such rules of thumb are not necessarily bad, because at least regular watering takes place, but monitoring moisture has worked well for me.

Run your soaker hose until you are sure the soil is saturated.  Then do not water until the soil begins to feel dry to the touch.  Don't wait until it is bone dry before you water again, just seek to maintain decent moisture.  The cycle we want to maintain is one of saturation, drainage and beginning to dry out before beginning the cycle again.

Why not water a little bit every day?  Isn't this the same?  The answer is no.  Watering a little each day only waters the surface roots.  The tree will survive, but may not establish roots down deep where it can find moisture during droughts once it has established and you will probably not be watering daily.  For this reason I do not recommend counting on a lawn sprinkler system to sufficiently water a new tree.  Go with the soaker hose method or use those green bags and make sure you fill them as needed.

You should water as described for the first three seasons, and then as needed after that.  It is easy to forget to begin watering in the spring.  Some springs are drier than others, so don't forget to start checking moisture early.  I also continue watering in the fall after the leaves have dropped (if the tree is deciduous) because there is a period of root growth between leaf drop and true dormancy that I want to help along as much as possible.  A tree going into winter dormancy under drought stress will not make it through the winter very well.

Remember: slow, deep, infrequent watering does the trick.  Allow the soil to drain and begin to dry before watering again.  If your site is poorly drained, keep in mind the bottom of the root ball will dry more slowly than the top.  We do not want to keep the roots waterlogged as this will kill the tree.  
Generally, if there has been 1"- 1.5" of rain per week you will not have to water unless your tree is planted in a place where water runs off too quickly to infiltrate the soil.

Remember, you can always call the office and ask for the Certified Arborist who serves your area if you have any further questions about planting or watering.

Thanks and good luck!

Your friendly neighborhood arborist, 
José Fernández

Oak Wilt in Franklin County

Several weeks ago a client called the office about some Red Oaks that were dying, one by one. I arrived at his home in north Columbus and he quickly filled me in on the details: Two years ago one tree died, last year one other tree died (neighbor’s tree nearby) and this year two more trees had died.

After inspecting the site I found the mature Red Oak were within about a 50’ diameter area, and were all defoliated. One tree still had some dead leaves attached to limbs high in the canopy as well as some sprouts in the inner canopy with a few remaining green leaves. The site was a nice stand of native woods surrounding a ravine area that spans across the rear of multiple properties.

I inspected the base of the tree and found some weeping spots at the base of the trunk on two of the trees:

There were a couple of areas with vertical cracks oozing black seepage. These symptoms, coupled with the fact that the trees had died quickly, brought a couple of ideas to mind, but I wanted to sample the trees and send them to the lab for a proper diagnosis as all the things I was thinking of were very serious. The client had done some research on his own and suspected Oak Wilt. I had not heard of this in our area, although I was aware that this is a problem north of the Columbus area.

Samples were retrieved from the middle canopy, selecting two branches that had both dead and live leaves in hopes that a transitional section could be sampled. After several weeks, the C. Wayne Ellett Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic (The Ohio State University) was able to identify the fungus Ceratocystis fagacearum which causes Oak Wilt.  

Please follow this link for the Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet on Oak Wilt, where the information summarized below is drawn from.

The implications of this are serious. All oak varieties are susceptible, and Red Oak seem to be particularly vulnerable.  

The disease can be spread both by root grafts (roots from neighboring trees growing together) and by sap feeding beetles and possibly oak bark beetles. Because it spreads in two ways, two approaches are needed to stop the spread of the disease.

The beetles that are vectors for the disease area attracted to fresh wounds on Oak trees, so pruning of Oaks during the growing season when the beetles are active is not recommended. A pruning wound will attract these beetles, and if they have been feeding on infected trees, the healthy trees will be subsequently infected.  

To prevent infection from tree to tree, trenching between trees is recommended to sever any root grafts. This is not always feasible depending on soil type and tree location, and trees must be accessible with proper equipment.

A fungicidal trunk injection can be applied preventively to healthy trees in order to help protect them from infection. The treatment needs to be reapplied every one to three years in order to maintain its efficacy.

In Closing: I have an Oak tree. What does this mean for me?

1. For maximum safety, do not allow your tree to be pruned during the growing season when beetles are active.  
2. If your tree is a vital part of your landscape, consider a trunk injection to increase the odds it will not be infected.
3. If your trees are infected and need to be removed, make sure the Certified Arborist doing or directing the work knows how to dispose of the material to prevent spreading the fungus.

Ask An Arborist: Can I save my ash tree?

@mikeresa: 
Is it possible to save a young Ash tree from the Ash Bore?

José Fernández ISA Board Certified Master Arborist, Russell Tree Experts:
Yes, it is very possible. There are many methods of treating Ash trees for Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), but experience has proven that there are two methods that work best:
Soil drench method and trunk injection method.The trunk injection method is recommended for trees that have an existing infestation. The soil drench method works well as a preventive measure to maintain resistance on healthy trees. It is important to have an ISA Certified Arborist inspect the tree in question to determine if it is a good candidate for treatment.
 
We are proud to have a very long list of clients with Ash trees that have remained healthy through the worst of the EAB infestation in central Ohio, and we have seen infested trees come back to health over several treatment cycles.

Ask An Arborist: What Should I Plant?

@thearachnidkid: 
We just bought a house with no trees or even shrubs in the yard. We want a bigger shade tree, and some smaller ones. We both want fruit or nut trees. And I love birch trees. We have our lot our house is on and a whole additional lot, so we have plenty of space. Can you recommend some types of trees and tell me when is a good time to plant them?

José Fernández & Joe Russell, Russell Tree Experts:
Prior to planting any new trees, a complete soil analysis of the site is recommended. Match the plant to the site. Native tree selections are best for large, medium, and smaller ornamental trees. Apple trees need to be selected for proper pollination and disease resistance. There are several cold hardy nut trees available. Regarding Birch trees, in Ohio we do not have cold enough winters to kill Bronze Birch Borer which is an insect that will ultimately kill white bark varieties of Birch trees. If soil tests are good, the best choice for a Birch tree in Ohio is River Birch. Other great choices would be large shade trees: Swamp White Oak, Hackberry, Ginkgo or Sugar Maple.  Medium/small trees: black tupelo, Japanese Zelkova, Red bud. Shrubs: spice bush, Korean spice viburnum, Nine bark, oak leaf  hydrangea.