Tree Spotlight: The Ohio Buckeye
The Ohio buckeye (Aesculus glabra) is one of the most recognizable trees in the Midwest. It is an Ohio native but also grows naturally throughout the Midwest and as far south as Texas. Ohio Buckeye is incredibly hardy and urban-tolerant and is considered a medium-sized tree, typically reaching heights of 30 to 40 feet, although exceptional trees can grow considerably taller under favorable conditions, and I’ve seen a number of specimens much larger over the years.
By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
August 27, 2026
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The Ohio buckeye (Aesculus glabra) is one of the most recognizable trees in the Midwest. It is an Ohio native but also grows naturally throughout the Midwest and as far south as Texas. Ohio Buckeye is incredibly hardy and urban-tolerant and is considered a medium-sized tree, typically reaching heights of 30 to 40 feet, although exceptional trees can grow considerably taller under favorable conditions, and I’ve seen a number of specimens much larger over the years.
Ohio Buckeye trees form a dense, rounded crown with low-branching limbs that often sweep outward before curving upward at the tips. The trees, however, are most easily identified by their leaves. They are opposite and palmately compound, usually with five (sometimes seven) leaflets radiating from a central point like the fingers of a hand. Each leaflet is elliptical to oblong, finely toothed, and 3-6 inches long. The foliage emerges bright green in spring, deepens to a rich green in summer, and often turns yellow, orange, or reddish brown in late Summer/Fall before dropping early. When crushed, the leaves and twigs release an unpleasant odor, which contributes to one of the tree’s less flattering common names, the stinking buckeye.
In mid to late spring, the Ohio buckeye produces upright clusters of greenish yellow flowers. These panicles, typically several inches long, contain small four petaled blossoms with prominent stamens and attract a variety of pollinators. By late summer and fall, the tree develops its most familiar feature: rounded, prickly capsules, about 1-2 inches across. When these husks split open, they reveal one to three smooth, glossy, dark brown seeds, each marked by a pale circular scar that resembles the eye of a deer giving rise to the name “buckeye.”
On a side note, several parts of the tree contain toxic compounds, particularly the seeds, bark, young shoots, and foliage. The seeds are poisonous to humans and livestock if eaten raw, although some wildlife, including squirrels, can consume them without harm.
The wood of the Ohio buckeye is soft, light, and close-grained. Historically, it has been used for carving, boxes, furniture parts, woodenware, artificial limbs, and occasionally pulp for paper. Its softness makes it suitable for items that do not require high structural strength.
In the landscape, the tree is often planted as an ornamental for its shade, spring flowers, and fall color, though its large, prickly fruit and susceptibility to leaf blotch, a cosmetic fungal disease, limit its use as a street tree. Ohio Buckeye is best suited to naturalized or informal settings like woodland edges, rain gardens, larger yards, or park-like areas where its seasonal character can be appreciated without concern for fallen fruit.
Beyond its botanical and ecological characteristics, the Ohio buckeye holds a deep place in the cultural identity of the state. Ohio adopted the buckeye as its official state tree in 1953. And the Ohio State University officially adopted “Buckeyes” as its athletic nickname in 1950, and the symbol remains central to the state’s identity today. Next to Ohio Stadium is Buckeye Grove, which features various buckeye trees as a way to honor Ohio State’s All-American athletes throughout the years.
That same nut also inspired one of Ohio’s most beloved confections. Buckeye candy consists of a peanut-butter fudge ball partially dipped in chocolate, leaving a circle of peanut butter visible at the top closely resembling the appearance of the actual seed. Home cook Gail Tabor is widely credited with popularizing the modern version of the candy in 1964. According to one account, an imperfect chocolate dip led her husband to remark that the treat looked like a buckeye. From there, the recipe spread widely across Ohio, becoming especially popular among Ohio State fans and at family gatherings, where it remains a staple treat.
For many families, however, the buckeye is not just history or symbolism; it is memory. Taking my kids over to Grandma’s in the fall has always been one of my favorite traditions. We head outside after the spiny husks have split and hunt for buckeyes scattered beneath the trees. Sometimes we bike down the path through Black Hand Gorge, pedaling past rows of buckeye trees lining the trail, their nuts dropping right onto the ground for us to gather as we ride. Then we come home, dump them out on the table, and the whole family sits together drilling holes and stringing them into necklaces, sometimes with a few beads mixed in, sometimes just the buckeyes on a simple string.
In the end, the Ohio buckeye is far more than a botanical specimen. It is a living emblem of Ohio’s state identity, a source of a beloved regional confection, a subject of folklore and historical memory, and a tree woven into everyday experiences of place and family. Whether recognized for its distinctive “eye,” carried as a token of luck, or simply noticed along a rural fence row, the buckeye continues to root itself firmly in both the landscape and the everyday lives of folks in the midwest.
Additional Reads:
Magnolia scale
Many homeowners first notice the symptoms before they ever see the insects. Sticky honeydew may accumulate on leaves, patio furniture, decks, vehicles, and other nearby surfaces. As honeydew builds up on foliage and branches, it promotes the growth of a black fungus known as sooty mold. Infested trees may also develop noticeable...
By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6806A
August 20, 2026
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Magnolia trees are among the most beautiful ornamental trees in Columbus, Ohio, but they are also vulnerable to one of the state's most destructive insect pests: magnolia scale. Understanding how to identify and manage magnolia scale can help homeowners protect their landscape and keep their trees healthy for years to come. If left untreated, this soft scale insect can weaken trees, cause branch dieback, and leave your property covered in sticky honeydew and black sooty mold.
Magnolia scale (Neolecanium cornuparvum) is one of the largest soft scale insects found in Ohio. Adult females can grow to nearly one-half inch in diameter and appear as smooth tan, pinkish, or brown bumps attached to branches and twigs. During certain stages of development, they may also be covered with a white, waxy coating. Unlike many insects, magnolia scale does not chew leaves. Instead, it feeds by inserting its mouthparts into branches and twigs and extracting sap directly from the tree. Saucer, Star, and Lily magnolias are among the most commonly affected species, although magnolia scale can infest nearly any magnolia species or cultivar found in residential landscapes.
[Images above were taken by ISA Certified Arborist® Krista Harris of Russell Tree Experts on August 19th, 2026]
While the insects themselves can be difficult to spot, the damage they cause is often much easier to recognize. Many homeowners first notice the symptoms before they ever see the insects. Sticky honeydew may accumulate on leaves, patio furniture, decks, vehicles, and other nearby surfaces. As honeydew builds up on foliage and branches, it promotes the growth of a black fungus known as sooty mold. Infested trees may also develop noticeable tan, brown, or white bumps on smaller twigs and branch wounds. Honeydew often attracts bees, wasps, and other insects. As infestations persist, trees may exhibit additional signs of stress, including yellowing leaves, premature leaf drop, thinning canopies, and branch dieback.
©Russell Tree Experts
If you notice sticky leaves, black sooty mold, or unusual bumps on your magnolia tree, don't wait until the damage becomes severe. Early intervention is key to preserving the beauty and health of your landscape. Soil-applied systemic treatments are often most effective when applied earlier in the growing season. Contact insecticide applications are typically timed to target newly emerged crawlers, which usually appear from late August through September in Ohio.
Regular inspections by one of our ISA Certified Arborists® can identify magnolia scale before significant damage occurs and provide the proactive care your trees need not only to survive, but to thrive for years to come.
5 Tree Watering Methods Ranked Worst to Best!
Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best!
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
Published: July 24, 2025
Updated: August 5, 2026
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WHY WATER A TREE?
Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best!
HOW TO WATER A TREE?
OPTION 1
LAWN SPRINKLER
Watering a tree with a sprinkler or hose is one method of tree watering; however, it is typically inefficient for trees and woody plants. A tree takes in water through its roots, and it is common to see sprinklers and hose operators spray water on the tree’s trunk and leaves. Not only is this an inefficient use of water, but it can lead to leaf scorch if watering is done during a bright and sunny day. A slightly more effective method would be to point the water towards the tree roots, but another issue to be cautious of is water running off and ending up elsewhere such as nearby grass, plants, concrete, or towards a sewer drain. Over time, this can also contribute to erosion through soil displacement. This can be minimized by installing a tree mulch ring with a subtle berm around the perimeter so that the mulch can retain as much water for the tree as possible. Out of the 5 tree watering methods discussed here, this would be my last option, but it is better than nothing and is a good alternative to not watering at all.
Overall Rating: ★☆☆☆☆
OPTION 2
Water BUCKET
A second way to water a tree would be to grab a bucket, fill it with water, and then dump it over the tree’s root zone. This will do a better job at targeting the tree’s roots for proper water absorption and minimize any risk of leaf scorch by keeping the leaves dry, but water runoff can still be a concern, especially if you dump the water all at once. To minimize this, the bucket of water can be slowly distributed in a circle around the tree anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away from the trunk. A disadvantage to this approach is that too much water at one time can lead to runoff.
Overall Rating: ★★☆☆☆
Option 3
WATERING CAN/GARDEN HOSE
Another tree watering method would be to slowly water the tree using a watering can or a garden hose on a slower, softer setting. Avoiding the trunk and canopy of the tree will eliminate the risk of leaf scorch and reduce the rate of evaporation. Watering at a slower, longer duration will help water infiltrate deeper into the root system and encourage more outward root growth. If using a watering can, I recommend watering 1-2 inches away from the surface and in a circle around the canopy drip line to minimize water runoff.
Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆
OPTION 4
IRRIGATION LANCE
Next up, is watering a tree with an irrigation lance! Deep root irrigation (DRI) involves the use of an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water a few inches below ground level, directly targeting the root zone of the tree. Benefits of this watering method are that it minimizes water absorption by aboveground, competing plants, and eliminates any water runoff. Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.
Deep root irrigation is a service that Russell Tree Experts offers to customers, but an irrigation lance can also be purchased at a home-and-garden store that can connect to your garden hose at home. One detail to consider is that the water from your garden hose may not come out at a high enough psi to break up some compacted soil, but you would still be achieving the goal of watering your trees! One benefit of having Russell Tree Experts water your trees is that we can access trees hard to reach by garden hose (if they are far away from the hose bib) and also water your trees if you are not home, such as on vacation!
Overall Rating: ★★★★☆
More on deep root irrigation!
OPTION 5
DRIP IRRIGATION
And lastly, one of the most effective and efficient methods of watering a tree is through drip irrigation. This is the process of applying water slowly over an extended period of time. Drip irrigation is very similar to method 3 (with the watering can/garden hose), but the difference is that you slow it down significantly and water over the course of an hour, or even longer depending on the size of the tree. This heavily reduces the potential for water runoff, soil/mulch erosion, and water evaporation. Due to the slower release, the tree will take in water for longer compared to a quick, few minutes of hose spraying. Less water can be used as a higher percentage of water will be targeted towards the tree and not stolen by nearby grass and plants or evaporated by the sun.
The most expensive way to perform drip irrigation is to install an underground irrigation system with aboveground drippers poking out near the tree’s root system. A cheaper alternative is to use a garden hose nozzle with a locking system, on a low output setting like mist or soaker, to water your tree! Just don’t forget to pick it up once you’re done! Another solution is to use a bucket of water and poke 2 to 3 tiny holes at the bottom so that the water will slowly release. Be cautious as the holes can be clogged up by debris and, depending on the size of your bucket and tree, you may need to refill the bucket more than once. Lastly, another form of drip irrigation is using a tree watering bag. Garden centers typically sell 20-gallon tree watering bags that can be quickly filled but slowly released. Similar to the bucket, the holes can also get clogged up by debris and will need to be inspected periodically.
Overall Rating: ★★★★★
HOW MUCH WATER FOR A TREE?
Now that you have learned about the worst and best ways to water a tree, you may be asking yourself “how much should I water my tree?” Well... it depends! The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) does not have set guidelines, and neither does Russell Tree Experts. A general rule of thumb is somewhere around 5 to 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (dbh). Various factors can affect the exact volume such as water runoff, evaporation rate depending on if it’s sunny or hot versus cold and cloudy, competition from nearby grass and plants, level of tree establishment, amount of precipitation during the week, and your patience and commitment to watering. For instance, a newly installed 2-inch dbh tree in the summer at full sun may need 20 gallons of water while an established, more mature 10-inch dbh tree on a cloudy, fall day may only need 50 gallons of water.
WHEN TO WATER A TREE?
The best time of day to water a tree is during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures are generally cooler, and the sun is less prevalent, leading to reduced evaporation and leaf scorch. Wet leaves overnight have a risk of fungal and disease issues while wet leaves in the middle of a sunny day have a risk of leaf scorch.
In terms of frequency... it depends! A newly planted container tree will benefit from watering every 2 to 3 days and a newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree once per week for at least the first 2 to 3 growing seasons (spring through fall). A large, mature tree may not need to be watered except in periods of extended drought and can water itself through its large root system or natural rain. During sunny, summer weather, all trees can benefit from tree watering every few days. During colder, winter weather after first frost, trees may not need to be watered at all except in fringe cases such as planting an evergreen tree late in the fall. If you want the broadest rule of thumb that comes with many exceptions and caveats, water your tree 3 to 4 times per week in the summer, 2 to 3 times per week in the fall and spring, and 0 times per week during most winters, adjusting this based on the tree’s root establishment, weekly temperature, and level of precipitation during a given week.
WHERE TO WATER A TREE?
The answer to this question does NOT depend! The best location to water a tree is in a circle around the tree between the trunk and canopy drip line. The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. In other words, if you look straight up and do not see any leaves, you are past the canopy drip line. There is a common misconception to water a tree right next to the trunk a few inches away. Although this is not a bad location, a tree can take in water from even further away and water should be as uniformly distributed as possible to promote healthy and outward root growth!
The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. [©Russell Tree Experts]
CONCLUSION
And there you have it, the essentials of what you need to know about watering a tree! The only other tip I recommend is to install a 2- to 4-inch-deep tree mulch ring around the tree to help conserve water for the tree. A tree mulch ring has a plethora of other benefits such as increased nutrient availability, better temperature regulation, decreasing the risk of stem-girdling roots, outcompeting with other plants, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and increased visual aesthetics! Just be cautious of piling mulch near the root flare/base of the tree! The mulch ring should be level, and the root flare should be exposed. As my friend and coworker TJ Nagel, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®, once said, “watering is the single most importance maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.” For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, including deep root irrigation, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
6 Pruning Methods That Need To Be Stopped!
The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational, depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned!
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
July 7th, 2026
Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner.
The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational, depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning!
1. TREE TOPPING
One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues.
©Russell Tree Experts
An example of lion tailing.
2. LION TAILING
Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.
3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING
Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune.
4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS
There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.
Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut.
©Russell Tree Experts
Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.
5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS
Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease.
6. UNIDEAL TIMING
Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window.
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Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote by one of our ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Plant Native – But why?
By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
July 2, 2026
We all hear that incorporating more native species into the landscape is beneficial; but do we know why? Native plants in the landscape are important because all of the plants’ neighbors, including animals and insects, have all evolved together to create a cozy, co-existing ecosystem. Pollinators also thrive in native plant landscapes because they have evolved to pollinate those plants, and they are a good food source and shelter for our pollinator friends. Native plants also require less maintenance than non-native species and therefore have easier upkeep in your gardens. Even if you are unwilling to go 100% native, it’s generally good practice to try and aim for 70% native species. And be sure to check with your local arborists and horticulturists to verify if a particular species is not invasive if you choose a non-native plant.
Did you know that a landscaped area can have layers? The uppermost layer is referred to as the canopy; this encompasses all of your large woody plants such as the Shagbark Hickory and the Northern Red Oak. After the canopy, you have the understory; this includes slightly smaller woody plants, often providing delicious food for consumption to wildlife, such as the Pawpaw and Eastern Redbud. Then you get to the shrub layer which is even smaller woody plants such as Sweetshrub, Oakleaf Hydrangea, and Spicebush. They are also a good source of food for native species of wildlife.
At the very bottom layer of the landscape, you get into all of the herbaceous perennials; these include ferns, grasses, spring ephemerals, and other perennials with various blooming times throughout the growing season. Listed are a few of my favorites:
Virginia Bluebells (early bloom, shade, spring ephemeral)
Solomon’s Seal (spring bloom, shade, perennial)
Wild Blue Phlox (spring bloom, partial shade, perennial)
Joe Pye Weed (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)
Cardinal Flower (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)
New England Aster (fall bloom, full sun, perennial)
Northern Maiden Hair Fern (shade, perennial/fern)
Little Bluestem (full sun, perennial/grass)
This year I had the opportunity to start my native garden from scratch! So hopefully I’ll have an update for you all next year when everything is beautifully in bloom. Until then, plant as many native species as you can so we can help our pollinator friends thrive and provide food and homes to other wildlife dependent on the natural ecosystem in your own yard.
Below is a YouTube video from a recently completed project where we helped create a native pollinator garden in Hilliard, OH! Instead of having grass or trees underneath power lines, the utility line company opted for a native pollinator garden that will help native wildlife and not be at risk of damaging any power lines! For a free tree work quote by one of our ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!
CREATING A NATIVE POLLINATOR GARDEN IN HILLIARD, OH!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
