Are Hickory nuts better than Pecans?
Are Hickory nuts better than Pecans? A Journey by T.J. Nagel
We have six native species of Hickory in Ohio: Bitternut hickory (Carya cordiformis), Pignut hickory (Carya glabra), Red hickory (Carya ovalis), Mockernut hickory (Carya tomentosa), Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) and Shellbark hickory (Carya lacinosa). Some folks believe that Pecan (Carya illinoinensis), another hickory, is also native to the Southwestern portions of Ohio. Others maintain that it has only naturalized. I personally am indifferent.
In any case, I’ve recently become interested in learning more about the subtle differences between these seven species. I want to be able to confidently identify them by their habit, bark, nuts, and buds, regardless of the season. As I have researched and explored the woods for these different trees I have decided that Shellbark Hickory is my favorite. I could elaborate further but the goal of this article is to tell you about Shellbark Hickory pie so I’m going to skip ahead.
Shellbark Hickory (sometimes called Kingnut Hickory) is a slow-growing and long-lived shade tree reaching heights of 70 - 80’ at maturity with a spread of about 40’. In Ohio, I find it naturally in bottomlands and floodplains although I’ve observed it performing well in parks and landscapes as well. It has large, 1 - 2’ long pinnately compound leaves that are dark yellow-green turning a nice golden yellow color in the Fall. The bark is shaggy, almost identical to the bark of its relative, Shagbark hickory, and the two species can be quite difficult to distinguish from one another. The two trees are so similar that I’ve noticed many folks will erroneously refer to their Shellbark Hickory as a Shagbark. I also realized recently that many of the “Shagbark hickory” I have grown up with are in fact Shellbark.
In a nutshell (pun intended), there are 3 subtle differences I use now to be able to tell the Shellbark and Shagbark hickory apart:
A Shellbark hickory leaf generally has 7 leaflets compared to the 5 leaflets of a Shagbark hickory leaf.
The terminal bud of Shellbark hickory is significantly larger than that of Shagbark Hickory
The nut of Shellbark hickory is also much larger than Shagbark, measuring 2 ½ - 3” in diameter compared to the 1 ½ inch diameter of Shagbark.
A few more interesting facts: Shellbark hickory is also a great tree for wildlife. The nuts are sweet and edible and are relished by deer, fox, rabbit, squirrel, wild turkey, ducks, and bears. Interesting side note: my dogs also love Shellbark hickory nuts. The flowers, although inconspicuous, provide nutrition for bees in the Spring as well. And historically, early settlers used Shellbark hickory nuts as a source of food as well as the tree itself for making furniture, tool handles, lumber, and fuelwood. This reminded me of the history of the American chestnut and really got me excited.
My girls this summer at the site of my best producing Shellbark hickory - note all the nuts ready for harvest in the driveway.
©Russell Tree Experts
As I read more and spoke with more people about the merits of Shellbark hickory, I found that a lot of folks preferred this nut over the flavor of pecan. Some even claimed that Shellbark hickory was a far superior nut and that Pecan had become famous only because it has a thinner husk and thinner shell and is an easier nut to clean. Now, this is a bold statement. Folks in Texas might even consider these fighting words. I knew that I needed to form my own opinion. I decided I would make Shellbark Hickory pie for Thanksgiving.
This pie-making project started with identifying a stand of Shellbark hickory in the woods near my office in Westerville. Between mid-August and mid-October, my father, dogs and I made several weekend trips to this stand of trees to collect Shellbark hickory nuts. Most of the nuts we collected from the ground but some we picked from the trees with a pole pruner. Over the course of 2 months, we collected approximately 20 gallons of Shellbark hickory nuts. This coincided with paw paw season (Asimina triloba) which made our walks in the woods even more rewarding (next year I’m making paw paw hickory pie).
By mid-October Dad and I knew we would need to start cleaning our bounty if we were to have pies by Thanksgiving. The art of cleaning Hickory nuts by hand is a slow art and rushing will only ensure that you eat lots of shells.
Our Hickory nut cleaning process was simple - Dad used a screwdriver and a hammer to remove the hickory nuts from the husk and I used the Cadillac of nutcrackers I purchased on Amazon to crack the shells. From here we used pliers, vice grips, and even dental tools to get the kernel (the edible part of the nut) out of the grooves and different crevices of the shell. We spent 3 separate weekends perfecting our nut-cracking skills and in hindsight, I wish I had kept time so I could compare our speed to next year. The process was at least as long as three OSU games and the entire Cat Stevens discography.
Approximately one-third of our hickory nut kernels were either dried up, infested with weevil larvae, or rotten. These went to the compost. Most of the remaining kernels went into a couple of mason jars and were placed in the freezer until we had time to bake. Anything questionable was set aside for the squirrels. From our original 20 gallons of nuts, we scored about 6 cups of edible Shellbark hickory kernels. This would be enough to make 4 pies.
The following is my recipe for Shellbark hickory pie:
On Thanksgiving day I arrived at my inlaw’s table with two freshly baked Shellbark Hickory pies. I was delighted to see that my sister-in-law had also brought a homemade Pecan pie. I realized that this was the moment I had been waiting for. Today all my questions would be answered. After two helpings of the usual thanksgiving fixings, I made my way to the dessert table and cut myself two equal-sized pieces of pie. One Shellbark Hickory and one Pecan. I covered both with equal amounts of whipping cream and returned to the table. First I had a bite of Pecan. I chewed it slowly and swallowed and then took a sip of water to cleanse my palate. Then I had a bite of Shellbark Hickory. Rinse and repeat a dozen or so times and here are my final thoughts.
I like pie
My sister-in-law’s Pecan pie was prettier than my Shellbark hickory pie with all of the perfectly formed pecans laid out on the surface in a perfect basket weave configuration.
Despite our best efforts, the Shellbark Hickory pie had more shell pieces in it than the Pecan pie.
The flavor of the Shellbark Hickory Pie and Pecan pie was very similar - so much so that most folks would probably not be able to distinguish one from the other if they were not eating them simultaneously.
I think I preferred the flavor of the Shellbark hickory pie but I could be biased after everything we've been through together.
Pecan pie was a delicious and worthy opponent and I mean no disrespect to my sister-in-law or her pie-making abilities.
In all seriousness, I think what really makes Shellbark Hickory superior to Pecan for me is its local proximity (to me), having a knowledge of and a relationship with the trees that the nuts have come from, and all of the memories of my father and I together picking them.
I am in the early stages of my Hickory infatuation and still have lots to learn. If any of you possess any hickory stories, fun facts, or recipes please share them with all of us - you can do so at the bottom of this article. I have one last interesting Hickory side note to share:
I randomly stopped at Watts Restaurant in Utica, OH this Fall while working in the area. If you haven’t had the pleasure of dining there, I encourage you to do so. Watts restaurant is a staple in the Utica community. It has been around for over a hundred years and survived two pandemics so they must be doing something right. They make a number of tasty and authentic family-style country recipes and serve a number of home-baked goods including Hickory nut pie. I bought a Hickory nut pie from them to take home and decided within a couple of bites that it was better than mine. I decided I would go back to Watts Restaurant and ask more questions. I wanted to know primarily (1) what species of hickory they were using in their pie and (2) where were they sourcing their hickory nuts. Might they be from local trees or were they buying them from a faraway land?
When I returned to Watts recently to ask about their Hickory nut pie I discovered that most of their baked goods are actually brought in from Hershberger’s Bake Shop, an Amish wholesale bakery in Danville, OH. For the record, Watts Restaurant does make all of its own cream pies in-house and they are equally delicious! But I still had unanswered questions so I decided to drive to Danville and make a visit to Hershberger’s Bake Shop.
I arrived at Hershberger’s Bake Shop on a cold afternoon this week but received a warm welcome from Naomi Hershberger and two of her colleagues who definitely were not expecting to see a Russell Tree Experts truck come down their driveway. I shared with them my love of Hickory trees and affinity for Hickory pie and that I had happened across their Hickory pie in Utica and that it was better than mine. They were patient with me and answered all of my questions and this is what I learned:
The Hershberger’s are far better at baking delicious pies than tree identification and had no idea what species of hickory nut they were using in their Hickory nut pie (after careful dissection I believe it is a mix of Shagbark and Shellbark).
The hickory nuts are collected locally from native trees in Knox and Holmes counties, Ohio.
They make Hickory nut pie most of the year.
They deliver new pies to Watts Restaurant in Utica every Tuesday and Friday but only a couple of Hickory nut pies each time.
So if you want to try Hickory pie but don’t have time to collect and clean the nuts make a trip this Winter to Watts Restaurant, 77 S. Main St. Utica, OH 43080. I recommend the chicken and noodles over mashed potatoes and a Hickory nut pie to go.
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
How to Plant a Tree
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
November 15, 2022
Today I would like to discuss step-by-step how ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel plants a tree! He very kindly planted a kwanzan cherry tree for me at my house that was donated by him, Cindy, one of our office managers, and Mark, our fleet manager! At the bottom of this article is a YouTube video where you can visually follow along!
THE STEPS
First, pick out a tree! TJ and I went to Oakland Nursery and selected a kwanzan cherry tree. To help in the planting process, we brought mushroom compost, mulch, a trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe. Mushroom compost will help enrich the soil. Mulch will help with water retention, temperature regulation, protection from lawn mowers, and curb appeal. A trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe will help in the digging process.
Choose a tree planting site! We chose in front a picture window in the front yard for viewing pleasure and as it was a few feet away from any obstructions such as my neighbor’s driveway, the sidewalk, my front porch steps, and nearby plants. We also knew that we were not planting directly on top of any pipes or water lines.
Dig your hole! The hole should be slightly wider but just a few inches shallower than the size of the tree’s pot. You will want a couple extra inches around the circumference of the root ball to pack in compost and dirt. We also like to plant most trees a few inches above the surrounding ground level as the tree could settle over the next couple of years, which is why the hole can be a few inches shallower than the depth of the root ball.
Take the tree out from the pot and cut 4 straight lines across the root ball. This will break up and loosen both the dirt and roots which will help minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. Optionally, you can also clean up and remove any small or entangled surface roots.
Test fit your tree and check if the hole’s depth is adequate. As mentioned earlier, you will want a few extra inches of space around the circumference of the tree and you will want the tree to sit a few inches above the surrounding ground level. Make adjustments to your hole if needed.
Mix up the mushroom compost with the existing, dug up soil with an approximate 1:1 ratio to help enrich the soil and promote growth. You can break up any chunks of dirt to obtain a fine, well blended mixture. If a few grass blades end up in the mixture, it is okay as it will decompose and help enrich the soil with nutrients. As long as there is no significant sod or roots on the surface, there should be no significant risk of weeds. To further minimize the risk of weeds and for aesthetic purposes, we will be placing mulch over top of the soil.
Place your tree in the the hole and fill it with your blended soil mixture! Be sure to keep your tree straight and upright while filling in your hole. You will want to lightly compact the soil mixture so that way the tree is stable during windy weather and does not lean or fall over.
Water the soil!
Apply a couple inches of mulch on top of the soil! Keep the trunk exposed and not covered with soil and also avoid creating a mulch volcano in order to minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. We shaped a small, subtle and almost unnoticeable moat around the perimeter of the elevated soil level to help water flow and soak towards the trunk.
Water the mulch!
And voila, your tree is now planted! Or in this case, this beautiful kwanzan cherry tree is now planted! If there are any tags on the tree, you can remove them now if you have not done so already. Optionally, TJ also made a few minor pruning cuts but this is not always necessary.
The first year is vital for a newly planted tree’s survival so make sure that it does not lean over, that it does not get chewed on or rubbed by any animals like deer, and that it gets properly watered, which can be once to twice per week depending on the season, your local climate, and the way the tree is packaged. You can optionally use a tree trunk guard or posts to help protect your tree and keep it straight but it may not be necessary depending on where you live.
I personally would like to give the hugest shoutout to TJ, Cindy, and Mark for donating and planting this tree. Earlier this year, my sister passed away and she loves kwanzan cherry trees. She loves their spring colors, has posters and images of them in her room and on her phone, and uses the Japanese cherry blossom scent for all her Bath & Body Works products. This sentiment is incredibly touching and meaningful and I cannot be more appreciative.
As mentioned earlier, linked down below is a step-by-step YouTube video you can follow along with as well as a few related tree planting articles! Hopefully you found this article educational and entertaining!
HOW TO PLANT A TREE BY AN ISA BOARD CERTIFIED MASTER ARBORIST
ADDITIONAL READS
“How to Mulch Around a Tree”
by Enrique Arayata
“10 Trees with Amazing Fall Color… And One You Should Avoid!”
by TJ Nagel
“Why Can’t I Plant a Tree Just Anywhere?”
by Enrique Arayata
“Planting Trees for a Purpose”
by Mike McKee
Sincerely,
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
TJ X BCMA®
We are thrilled to announce that our own TJ Nagel recently earned the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® (BCMA) certification! This is no average feat and we're so impressed by TJ's drive and dedication to earn the top certification in our industry!
TJ X BCMA®
We are thrilled to announce that our own TJ Nagel recently earned the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® (BCMA) certification! This is no average feat and we're so impressed by TJ's drive and dedication to earn the top certification in our industry!
“The ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® credential is the highest level of certification offered by ISA. This credential recognizes ISA Certified Arborists® who have reached the pinnacle of their profession. In addition to passing an extensive scenario-based exam, candidates must abide by a Code of Ethics, which ensures quality of work. Fewer than two percent of all ISA Certified Arborists® currently hold this certification.”
- International Society of Arboriculture
COMMENT BELOW TO congratulate TJ!
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The Double Tree of Casorzo
Between Casorzo and Grana in Piemonte, a region in northwest Italy, there is a cherry tree growing healthily on top of a mulberry tree with branches spreading over 5 meters long. This tree, or should I say, these trees, are known as the Double Tree of Casorzo (Bialbero de Casorzo in Italian) or the Grana Double Tree.
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 11, 2022
Today I want to talk about a rare and interesting sight: the Double Tree of Casorzo. Before anyone asks, no I am not referring to a DoubleTree hotel in Casorzo. Between Casorzo and Grana in Piemonte, a region in northwest Italy, there is a cherry tree growing healthily on top of a mulberry tree with branches spreading over 5 meters long. This tree, or should I say, these trees, are known as the Double Tree of Casorzo (Bialbero de Casorzo in Italian) or the Grana Double Tree.
As you may already know, it is not common by any means to see a tree on top of another tree, but somehow, someway, this cherry tree managed to find its home on top of this mulberry tree. It is unclear how exactly this double tree grew to be, but one popular theory is that a bird dropped off a cherry tree seed on top of the mulberry tree. The cherry tree seed then spread its roots down through the hollow trunk of the mulberry tree and found a connection to the soil where it can absorb nutrients. The relationship between the two trees does not appear to be parasitic or harmful to one another. It is fascinating to see that the mulberry and cherry trees are able to share water, sunlight, soil nutrients, and most importantly space without outcompeting one another and growing just fine.
Plants growing non-parasitically on top of other plants are not uncommon and are known as epiphytes. Common examples of epiphytes include some species of ferns, orchids, and bromeliads, which can attach themselves to trees or other plants and absorb some nutrients from rain and air along with any other nearby debris or soil they can access; all while not harming its host. What makes the Double Tree of Casorzo unique is that most epiphytes either are small in size or have a short lifespan due to lack of space and humus. However, as you can see in the photo within this article, this cherry tree is quite tall and healthy!
I talked to ISA Certified Arborist Andy Bartram (Crew Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts) about these trees to get his thoughts and opinions. Without seeing the tree in person, he believes the bird seed theory is plausible and he’s interested to know what the cherry tree’s root system looks like. As mentioned earlier, the cherry tree’s roots could be spreading down through the hollow trunk of the mulberry tree to get its nutrients, but there is also a chance that some grafting between the cherry tree and the mulberry tree’s root system could be occurring. The cherry tree could also be receiving nutrients from any available rain and mulberry leaves. I asked Andy about the tree’s health and longevity. In terms of treatment, if the trees have been growing healthily without any human interference, then they should be left untouched. If needed, watering during dry periods or seasonal fertilization could also aid in their health and growth. On a final note, Andy was curious about the structural rigidity of the Double Tree of Casorzo. With the cherry tree’s root system being higher off the ground (or potentially grafted to the mulberry tree), it may pose a hazard during windy days for visitor safety. If so, the fence surrounding the trees is definitely necessary and may even need to be extended as the trees continue to grow.
So if you ever take a trip to Piemonte, Italy, visit this tree and feel free to share any photos or videos you take! This Double Tree of Casorzo is definitely something you do not see every day!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 3]
In this third installment of “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape”, we’re switching gears and discussing a shrub that can make for an excellent addition to your landscape – the Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii).
In this third installment of “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape”, we’re switching gears and discussing a shrub that can make for an excellent addition to your landscape – the Korean spice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii). If you’re looking for a non-native tree option instead, check out parts 1 & 2 of this series where we discuss the Japanese katsura tree and the Japanese tree lilac.
The Korean spice viburnum is native to Korea and Japan. It is a shrub-like plant, typically growing to 4-6’ in height and width, and possibly larger (to 8’) under ideal growing conditions. When maintained at a smaller size, it makes a wonderful shrub for group plantings along borders or home foundations, but can also be planted individually as a specimen plant among other landscape trees and shrubs.
The Korean spice viburnum produces pink to white flower clusters around mid-spring, with an outstanding fragrance that rivals that of the most fragrant lilacs. For this reason, consider planting this shrub as a grouping in a location where you can enjoy the fragrance, such as near a front walkway or backyard patio. As a deciduous shrub, its foliage generally turns varying shades of red in the fall before dropping. To maximize flowering, it should be planted in full sun but will tolerate light shade. Pruning to maintain size and habit should be performed after flowering.
Average size of the Korean spice viburnum
The Korean spice viburnum will tolerate higher pH levels (more alkaline) and the clay soil often found in central Ohio, but prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Care should be taken to not plant this shrub in poorly drained, consistently wet areas. Interestingly, even though it is a non-native shrub, it tolerates being planted in closer proximity to Black walnut, a native tree that produces a natural toxin that adversely affects some landscape plants.
If searching for a Korean spice viburnum at the nursery, make sure you select the right plant. Many species of Viburnum are available for use in the Ohio landscape, and they can vary greatly in size and habit. A common cultivar of the Korean spice viburnum that you may find available in the nursery that would make a suitable substitute is the Burkwood viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii), though it will tend to reach a slightly larger size in maturity.
The Entire 3-Part Series:
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 2]
In this second part of our “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape” series, we’re taking a closer look at the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata subsp. reticulata), a small to medium-sized tree that is suitable for many locations in the landscape
In this second part of our “Asian trees for the Ohio landscape” series, we’re taking a closer look at the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata subsp. reticulata), a small to medium-sized tree that is suitable for many locations in the landscape. If you’re interested in a larger shade tree for your yard, check out part 1 of this article series here, where we discuss the Japanese katsura tree.
The Japanese tree lilac is native to Japan. It is in the same genus as shrub-type lilacs, but as the name implies, has a tree-like form that provides for a different application in the landscape. With a mature height of 20-30’ and width of 15-20’, it’s a great choice for smaller spaces near patios or closer to homes, or when used in group plantings along a large driveway. It is also an appropriate option for a street tree, as it can be easily maintained to clear streets and sidewalks with a more upright, rounded canopy.
When selecting shrub-like lilacs for the landscape, homeowners often do so for the beautiful and aromatic flowers that emerge each spring. The Japanese tree lilac makes no exception in this manner, producing large clusters of white, fragrant flowers in early summer. Its foliage is similar in shape to that of a common flowering lilac, with no particularly notable fall color before leaf drop. Its bark has distinctive markings (lenticels), closely resembling that of a cherry tree.
When planting a Japanese tree lilac, be sure to select a location that gets plenty of sun throughout the day. It will tolerate less than ideal soil conditions including compact and dry sites, but thrives in well-drained, moist and fertile soils. As is the case with virtually all trees, proper amendment of the soil when planting the tree and proper after-care (watering and fertilization) will set it up for success in subsequent years.
The Japanese tree lilac has a medium growth rate. It is susceptible to a few insect and disease issues if growing in a stressful environment, but is widely considered to be the most pest-free lilac. A popular variety of Japanese tree lilac that can be found in local nurseries is ‘Ivory Silk’, a cultivar that matures to approximately 20’ in height and flowers at a young age.
The Entire 3-Part Series
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Asian Trees for the Ohio Landscape [Part 1]
In Ohio and much of the Midwest, many of the non-native trees and shrubs that can be found in the landscape are Asian in origin, due to the similar climate we share with that region of the world. This gives us a great opportunity to expand our options beyond native trees and shrubs when selecting suitable replacements or additions to our yards.
In Ohio and much of the Midwest, many of the non-native trees and shrubs that can be found in the landscape are Asian in origin, due to the similar climate we share with that region of the world. This gives us a great opportunity to expand our options beyond native trees and shrubs when selecting suitable replacements or additions to our yards. Some non-native trees, such as Japanese maples, have become staples in our landscapes. In this article, we’ll discuss the Japanese katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum), a medium to large tree in maturity that is largely underutilized in the midwestern landscape, but might just be the perfect tree for your property.
The Japanese katsura tree is native to Japan and parts of China. Though it can grow to more than 100’ in height in its native wild habitat, it will generally reach 40-60’ in a landscape setting. Because of its larger size, the Japanese katsura tree should be planted in a location where it has room to grow and eventually become a shade tree.
The Japanese katsura tree has rounded, heart-shaped leaves and is deciduous (dropping its leaves in autumn). It has a wonderful yellow to slightly orange fall color that is accompanied by a distinctive smell, often described as burnt brown sugar or cotton candy, when the leaves begin to fall and decay. It prefers full sun but some protection from the wind, is generally insect and disease-free, and has a medium to fast growth rate under ideal conditions. It has a pyramidal shape when young, but matures into a more rounded canopy, reaching 30-40’ in width.
The Japanese katsura tree will tolerate the alkaline and clay soils often found in central Ohio, but it does prefer consistently moist and well drained soils (as do many trees!). For this reason, it’s important to give the tree a great start in the landscape with proper planting and after care for the first 1-2 years.
When younger, the Japanese katsura tree does have thinner bark, so it's trunk should be protected if you tend to have deer activity in your yard, as the antler rubbing from male whitetail deer in the late summer and early fall can severely damage or kill a tree. Also, care should be taken to maintain a mulch ring or landscape bed around the tree, as thinner barked trees are generally more susceptible to mechanical damage from mowers and string trimmers.
Overall, the Japanese katsura tree is a great choice for a central Ohio landscape. If you’re looking to plant a tree this year, be sure to do so in the spring or fall when temperatures and soil moisture are favorable, and give the Japanese katsura tree some consideration. It’s a great alternative option to our native shade trees, and will add wonderful form, color, and variety to your landscape.
The Entire 3-PArt series:
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.
Right of Way: Understanding City-Owned Trees
Many people assume that they are responsible for the trees located in their lawns in front of their homes. In many cases, this is not true.
Many people assume that they are responsible for the trees located in their lawns in front of their homes. In many cases, this is not true.
Many cities and municipalities maintain what is called a “right of way” in front of your property and sometimes in the back as well. I have worked for three different communities over my career, and all three had different policies regarding “street trees”, as they are usually called.
Many communities simply create an ordinance passing that responsibly to the property owner, but in central Ohio, there are several communities that have created forestry departments that maintain trees located in the city “right of way.” That’s where the tricky part comes in as there are many different approaches in how each department operates. We (Russell Tree Experts) are currently completing several tree pruning contracts for different communities in central Ohio at this time. Some communities have arborists on staff to complete their work and contract some as well.
Most communities in central Ohio allow the property owner to maintain their city-owned trees if it is completed without harming the tree and completed in a professional manner. Some communities require that a tree company working on city trees must be registered with the city and have a certified arborist on staff. In most cases, removing a city-owned tree is not allowed without prior approval and it can be quite costly (fines) if you remove a city tree without permission.
Finding out what the “right of way” is prior to any work is always a good idea. Most communities can provide that info over the phone. Another good resource in Franklin County is the auditor site. If you pull up your address you can go into mapping where you can determine the right of ways associated with your property.
In the above example, the red line is property line. Trees outside of these lines would likely be the city’s responsibility - depending on the city’s rules. [the above is a screenshot for the Franklin County Auditor Site.]
Most people do not realize that in some cases the right of way can extend well beyond the sidewalk. If you have an alley behind your property, there may be some easement associated with that as well. In the communities that I have worked for, the alley “right of way” was only the width of the pavement. If your property is a corner lot or surrounded by streets, you may not be responsible for near as many trees as you once thought.
In closing, I would highly recommend that you identify which trees you are responsible for prior to hiring an arborist. This could save you a lot of money in the long run. Not only if you are not responsible, but so you don’t cut down or improperly prune a city-owned tree, and get fined.
Questions? Comment below and we’ll get back to you.
What to learn more? Check out the article “Tree Law: Who Owns This Tree?” written by Shari Russell which details who owns a tree when it grows on a property line.
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Spotted Lanternfly: They Are Getting Close!
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries.
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries. The preferred host is the infamous Tree of Heaven which initially may sound like good news; let’s have an invasive insect wipe out an invasive plant! (See TJ’s article about Tree of Heaven). However, Tree of Heaven is not its only target. If Tree of Heaven isn’t around, it will simply jump onto the nearest tree until it finds something it likes. SLF has been documented feeding on over 100 different species of plants. The most susceptible, other than Tree of Heaven, is Grapevine, apple and peach trees, hops, blueberries, Black Walnuts, and Maples, but again, this pest doesn't discriminate! Another reason why it is so invasive is that it doesn’t have any natural predators. The flashy color on the Spotted Lanternfly warns potential predators that “I don’t taste good!”
The OSU Extension office is currently researching best treatment options. Unfortunately, so far, they do not have any recommendations but we are watching the situation closely and when we have more information, we will give everyone an update. For now, it’s important to be aware of the potential infestation in your area and monitor. If you see any suspected SLF activity, report it to the OSU Extension office and they will confirm.
What can we do to slow the spread?
Known areas of infestation in Pennsylvania have a quarantine mandate requiring to go through a checklist before traveling or moving within or out of the quarantined area. In Ohio, the Department of Agriculture has put together this checklist to help slow the spread of this pest.
If eggs are found, you can scrape the eggs into a bag to seal them/crush them or kill them in an alcohol solution. During these early stages of spread, it is important to document anything you find; please take pictures of any suspected Spotted Lanternfly or collect a sample if possible and send it to the OSU Extension office along with the location you collected the sample.
So far, six populations of Spotted Lanternfly in been confirmed in Ohio:
To do now:
Look for egg masses. They lay eggs from September-December and are hard to see but we need to search and destroy them! The eggs will start hatching this spring, likely around May (GDD 270).
Late spring/early summer:
When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.
In Review
To review, Spotted Lanternfly is an invasive insect that is on the move and we need to try and stop the spread. Its primary host is Tree of Heaven but it can feed on the sap of over 70 different species of plants. When travelling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas. If found, please report it to the OSU Extension office so we can help better understand this insect. We will keep everyone up to date (check our ARBOR ED™ section) on any new information and let you all know if we receive any news about confirmed populations in our area.
[Images courtesy of Ohio State University Extension, New Jersey DOA, Pennsylvania DOA / Drawings by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
I Speak for the Trees
“I am the Lorax, I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees for the trees have no tongues.” As a representative of a tree company based out of Central Ohio, I feel that I have the responsibility to speak for the trees. Much like my friend the Lorax, written into this world by Dr. Seuss…
“I am the Lorax, I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues.”
As a representative of a tree company based out of Central Ohio, I feel that I have the responsibility to speak for the trees. Much like my friend The Lorax, written into this world by Dr. Seuss, someone needs to “speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues.” What is our environmental responsibility as humans? To protect the environment we live in for future generations to be able to enjoy and thrive. One way to do this is to promote plant diversity which ensures we do not experience the devastation of wiping out all plant material with one fell swoop of a disease or pest. We have already seen things come through such as Dutch elm disease and the Emerald Ash Borer which wiped out thousands of elm trees and ash trees across the area. Amazingly, from these events, we saw an emergence of resistant species which is such a great example of how Mother Nature perseveres!
Illustration & text by Russell Tree Experts (Inspired by Dr. Seuss, of course!)
Humans have an Earthly responsibility to help Mother Nature — we are just a guest in her house and we need to treat it as such. By cultivating a variety of plant species, in both urban and rural settings, we can aid Mother Nature in replenishing her home with beautiful foliage and ensure that it isn’t all wiped out with one disease or pest. If we as a society decided to only plant trees in one family, a pest or disease could come along that affects only that species and suddenly, all of our landscapes are devastated. By planting more trees, and a variety of them, we can ensure their length of life is optimized while simultaneously aid in combating the toxins released by daily human activity. Each day we make several choices to either help or turn a blind eye. We live in a world where it is easy to forget the environmental impact of our actions because we do not see and perhaps will never see the consequences of our actions.
Illustration & text by Russell Tree Experts (Inspired by Dr. Seuss, of course!)
In January of 2020, my family and I made a 1-month commitment to removing all animal products from our diet for both health and environmental reasons. My cholesterol was through the roof, particularly when I was pregnant with my second daughter, and I had recently learned that the animal agriculture industry is responsible for about half of all worldwide greenhouse gas emissions. Also, producing 1 pound of meat requires approximately 50 times more water than producing a pound of plant-based nutrients in the way of fruits, vegetables, and grains. During that one-month commitment, I felt so much better; my energy levels, my mood, and I just felt generally healthier. I decided to keep my commitment going and my cholesterol numbers came down to within a normal range. Beyond that, I also felt like I was doing more for the environment and doing my part to be a good house guest to Mother Nature. It felt good making these health changes that impacted both me and my surroundings.
Human intervention is infamously detrimental to the world we live in; pollution, carbon emissions, urban monocultures, and the list goes on. Everyone should be conscious of their impacts and we should do our best to lessen the strain on Mother Nature and promote a more symbiotic relationship. One way Russell Tree Experts works to help the environment is with our TREE FOR A TREE® program; for every residential tree we remove, we plant another in its place at a local park or nominated location. We focus on a diverse selection of trees that are native to the area such as Bur Oak, Sycamore, and Red Bud.
Like my friend The Lorax, I speak for the trees, and more specifically, my environment. At Russell Tree Experts, we do our best to do what we can for Mother Nature to ensure she will be around for years to come.
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
The 3 Cut Method
There are times when the professionals at Russell Tree Experts should be utilized, although I realize there may be situations when removing a single branch is something very achievable by you, the homeowner.
By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6806A
February 13, 2025
[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 2/13/25 from its original publish date of 6/30/21]
There are times when the professionals at Russell Tree Experts should be utilized, although I realize there may be situations when removing a single branch is something very achievable by you, the homeowner. I feel it's safe to assume if you're reading this article, you have a bit of a green thumb and you like to get your hands dirty by maintaining as much of your landscape as possible. This article isn't to dive deep into the various pruning techniques or strategies we use in the field, rather, it's to help homeowners make proper pruning cuts on trees throughout their property. Keep in mind, even though you may have seen us swinging about your trees like monkeys, we're trained to do so in the safest manner possible and I discourage you from putting yourself in harm’s way pruning your tree(s).
The reasons for pruning a branch or limb from a tree are vast. Whether it's removing a pesky branch that keeps slapping you in the face during weekly lawn maintenance to getting rid of that one dead branch that you see every time you look out your window, I'm here to help you make a cut that will ultimately compartmentalize naturally.
Trees have a natural response known as CODIT (Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees) which allows them to wall-off or seal wounds to help prevent decay or entry of harmful diseases. Cuts that are too flush with the parent stem (or left too long) are unlikely to seal properly and could potentially degrade the health of your tree.
key branch landmarks
So, now, let's get into the nitty-gritty of proper pruning cuts. It's critical to be able to identify key branch landmarks that help guide where your final cut will be: the 'Branch Bark Ridge' and the 'Branch Collar'. The branch bark ridge can be seen as the raised strip of bark on top of the branch where it joins with the main parent stem or trunk of the tree. The branch collar is the slightly raised or swollen portion around the sides and bottom of the branch, this portion may or may not be distinguishable. The imaginary line connecting these two landmarks determines where the final cut should be made.
Step by step: The 3 Cut Method
To begin, whether using a handsaw/polesaw/chainsaw, I'll teach you how to remove a branch using the 3 cut method:
1st Cut / Bottom cut
Create a cut on the underside (undercut) of the branch roughly 1/3 of the way through. This is a crucial step in the branch removal process as it eliminates the risk of the branch peeling down and further harming the tree.
2nd Cut / Top Cut
Next is a second distal cut on top of the limb (further from the trunk) to remove the limb (topcut).
3rd Cut / Final cut
Now, with only a stub remaining, is when you should identify that imaginary line I described above. This will be the site for your final cut that will eventually seal properly as long as the tree is healthy and capable.
How-to Video: The 3 Cut Method
I’m not the biggest fan of being on camera so I’ve asked Kenny Greer (Our marketing guy at Russell Tree Experts) to demonstrate the 3 Cut Method in the below video! Check it out!
proper pruning results
A proper final cut will become a minor blemish guarding your tree against decay and harmful organisms. Here are some beautiful examples:
Please Note — In the past, it was believed that paint would help seal fresh wounds, although this has since been proven to only slow down the natural CODIT process. Can any of you guess when we would apply this "wound paint?" If you'd like to find out, I encourage you to read Lindsey Rice’s ARBOR ED™ article on oak wilt and dutch elm disease, my fellow coworker and ISA Certified Arborist®!
Questions? Comments? Leave them below and we will get back to you as soon as possible! Thanks for reading and watching! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Mike Wilson | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 12 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!
What's Wrong with my Sycamore & Maple?
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?" "Why is my American sycamore bare this year” …To answer these questions, we need to go back to a chilly, wet evening 5 weeks ago. On May 5th, the temperature dropped overnight to 41 degrees just after an early morning shower that day. We continued this cool, wet trend for 10 lousy days, and…
©Russell Tree Experts
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?""Why is my American sycamore bare this year?"By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
May 22, 2025
Anthracnose fungus attacks newly emerging leaves in the spring when the weather is just right for disease development. The symptoms vary from host to host, but typically infected leaves will have irregular dark spots along veins. Eventually, the leaf will curl, die, and fall. In the case of the sycamore, often the leaf buds are killed before they have even had a chance to emerge.
[Sugar Maple leaf before and after anthracnose fungus]
©Russell Tree Experts
Anthracnose fungus affects many deciduous trees and seems to be most noticeable this year on sycamore and maple in our area. I have had at least 10 customers per week concerned that their beloved trees were dying due to this fungus. I have also been driving by my favorite American sycamores around my home, only to find them very sparsely leafed and struggling. This includes Upper Arlington's oldest tree, an amazing 3 stemmed beauty that our team pruned a few months ago.
©Russell Tree Experts
[American Sycamore leaves with anthracnose fungus]Thankfully, I have wonderful news for the stewards of these afflicted trees. Anthracnose is a cosmetic disease for the majority of trees! If the tree is otherwise healthy and well established, it will be just fine. It will replace those lost leaves in July when conditions no longer favor anthracnose development.
How can you help trees with this seasonal infection?
Water your trees during our hot, dry summers! Concentrate the water at the ground level only, do not splash the leaves. All trees will appreciate the extra water, but those that have lost their leaves and are attempting to replace them will relish it! ARTICLE: HOW TO WATER YOUR TREES
Prune your trees for better air circulation and light penetration. This will help the leaves dry faster and it will be harder for the fungus to spread.
Dispose of affected leaves so that the spores are not hanging around next year to re-infect your tree.
Consider fertilizing your trees in the spring so that they have the needed nutrients to stay healthy (and possibly put on 2 sets of leaves if it is another good year for anthracnose infection).
Above all, do not panic! We cannot control the weather or the fungus. Just concentrate on overall tree health and by mid-summer, the trees will have recovered and this disease will be just a bad memory. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speaker to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 6/14/2021 and was revised on 5/22/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]
Brood X Cicada: Facts & Tips
Our arborists first saw the Brood X cicadas emerge on May 21st, 2021. They are expected to be present within our environment for the next 6-8 weeks (maybe even longer)!
EMERGENCE
Our arborists first saw the Brood X cicadas emerge on May 21st, 2021. They are expected to be present within our environment for the next 6-8 weeks (maybe even longer)!
SIZE
The Brood X cicadas are 1.25-1.5" long with red eyes. When they first emerge from their exoskeletons their bodies are a yellowish color but they soon darken to black/dark brown.
HARMLESS TO HUMANS
They won't/can't bite people but they are clumsy flyers so they will fly into things!
A Natural Process
The brood X cicadas have emerged every 17 years for centuries (!!!) and they are a natural part of our ecosystem. Many of the trees you see throughout the area have likely survived a few brood X "invasions" already!
Medium/Large Trees:
LOW RISK
For medium and large trees, they are harmless. The cicadas will likely feed and lay eggs on the trees but they will not cause any long-term damage. You may see some dead leaves and twigs but the tree will be just fine in the long term.
Smaller/Recently Planted Trees:
MEDIUM RISK
Smaller and recently planted trees may be more susceptible to long-term health issues from cicadas. You may consider wrapping these trees to prevent the possibility of damage. Check out the below video on how to properly wrap your tree!
How to Video:
Protecting a Tree from Cicada Damage
Why Can’t I Plant a Tree Just Anywhere?
When I first began working at Russell Tree Experts as a video production assistant, I had no significant prior knowledge of arboriculture, and I never really understood the concept of tree planting. My overall impression was that trees are good for the environment as they provide oxygen, contribute to an ecosystem, and are visually pleasing to look at and enjoy.
Image via Adobe Stock
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 13, 2021
When I first began working at Russell Tree Experts as a video production assistant, I had no significant prior knowledge of arboriculture, and I never really understood the concept of tree planting. My overall impression was that trees are good for the environment as they provide oxygen, contribute to an ecosystem, and are visually pleasing to look at and enjoy. However, after working at Russell Tree Experts for almost two years now and after taking a World of Plants class at The Ohio State University, I learned that it’s not that simple. For many reasons, a tree cannot simply be planted anywhere, as it may be planted in the wrong location, leading to a low survival rate or a negative impact on the local ecosystem.
Hardiness Zones
One reason why a tree cannot just be planted anywhere is because it may be planted in the wrong hardiness zone. The USDA Hardiness Zone Map is a map of the United States that divides the country into different zones based on the area’s average annual minimum winter temperature. In relation to arboriculture, it can often reveal where a tree has or does not have a strong likelihood of survival and growth. For example, palm trees (Arecaceae) can be expected to grow in hardiness zones 8 and above. If it were planted in Columbus, Ohio, which has a hardiness zone of approximately 6a, it would not have a strong likelihood of growth and survival and may require extensive care and maintenance. However, if that palm tree were to be planted in Miami, Florida, which has a hardiness zone of 10b, it would have a higher chance of successful growth and survival, which makes sense as palm trees can be commonly seen in Miami and not in Columbus.
Native vs Non-Native
Even if a tree is planted in the proper hardiness zone, it may still not survive or grow well if it is in a non-native area. When compared to non-native trees, native trees are adapted to the local climate and soil conditions and experience fewer insect and disease problems. They may also require little to no fertilizers, pesticides, or added water. Native insects, birds, and animals also rely on native trees for food and shelter and might not adapt well to a non-native tree. Although many trees have been planted and grown outside of their native area, some non-native trees may be more susceptible to insect and disease problems or may even spread an insect and disease problem if planted in a non-native area. For example, the Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) is natively found in the southern Rocky Mountains area, such as Colorado. Although it can be expected to grow in hardiness zones 2 through 7, which Ohio falls under, a Colorado blue spruce planted in Columbus, Ohio has a significantly higher chance of suffering from rhizosphaera needle cast, a fungal disease causing needles to turn brown and fall off, due to Ohio’s local ecosystem and weather conditions.
Invasive
Invasive Tree /inˈvāsiv trē/ Definition: An exotic, indigenous, or non-native tree species that has a negative or harmful effect on the growth of commercial, nearby, or native tree species.
Invasive trees will survive, reproduce, and quickly spread in large numbers at considerable distances from the parent tree with little to no maintenance or aid. They will also threaten the native or natural ecosystem or habitat by outcompeting the neighboring trees and plants for resources like sunlight, water, nutrients, soil, and space. Finally (and maybe most troublingly), they can also change the character, form, condition, or nature of their planted ecosystem in favor of their conditions rather than the native species’ conditions. These invasive species can be introduced purposely or by accident, but regardless, they are serious environmental pests. It can lead to the loss of biodiversity, habitat degradation, and economic damage in some cases. Examples of invasive species in Ohio include, but are not limited to, amur honeysuckle, autumn olive, multiflora rose, and the tree of heaven. For more information on invasive species in Ohio, visit this link: Ohio Department of Agriculture.
Additional Factors
Let’s say you are ready to plant a tree in your yard and you have chosen a native, non-invasive tree with little to no insect or disease problems that is suitable for your local area’s hardiness zone; there are still a few things to consider that could impact the lifespan of your tree.
SUNLIGHT PREFERENCE
Trees have a sun preference (full, partial, full shade) and if a tree were to be planted outside of its sun preference, it may lead to less than ideal results: stunted growth in a tree’s height potential, poor flowering/fruiting ability, dehydration, low survival rate, and more. To determine a planting site’s sun allowance, observe the area’s amount of sun or shade throughout the day.
SOIL PREFERENCE
Trees have a wide range of soil preferences based on moisture, material, and pH level. For example, a tree may prefer certain moisture of soil like well-drained soil, a certain soil material like clay soil, or a certain pH level like alkaline or acidic pH soil. pH is a method of measuring a solution or soil’s acidity or alkalinity ranging from 0 to 14. 0 is acidic, 7 is neutral, and 14 is basic. If a tree that prefers a low soil pH, such as a pin oak tree, is planted in soil that has a high pH, it may lead to issues such as chlorotic leaves or the need for seasonal fertilization to maintain a certain pH level. Studies have shown that soil near recently paved sidewalks may have a higher pH due to limestone in the cement mixture. To measure a planting site’s soil pH level, give us a call and we can arrange a soil test.
Ask Yourself
So before you plant that tree in your yard, as yourself the following questions:
Is this tree appropriate for this hardiness zone?
Is this tree native to this location?
Is this tree not deemed invasive?
Am I planting this tree in an area with the ideal sunlight for the species?
Am I planting this tree in an area with the ideal soil for the species?
If you answer “Yes” to all five then you are likely good to start digging! PS - we recommend that you don’t plant your trees during the summer months as the heat adds additional stress to young trees.
Additional Reads
Feel free to also check out our ARBOR ED™ tree planting articles for more information written by my fellow coworkers! I hope this helps, good luck, and have fun on your next tree planting project!
Sincerely,
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Recap: Arbor Day 2021
Hello! Arbor Day was last Friday (April 30th, 2021) — Check out the above video to see why it’s our favorite day of the year!Hello! Arbor Day was last Friday (April 30th, 2021) — Check out the above video to see why it’s our favorite day of the year! We'd also like to give a HUGE KUDOS (!!!) to everyone involved in making Arbor Day 2021 a success! It was a joy to share our love for trees with so many wonderful people!
Free Trees to Celebrate Arbor Day!
Arbor Day is tomorrow (!!!) and to celebrate we are giving away 300 tree saplings! Stop by our office (directions below) today (April 29th) starting at 10AM for a contact-free pick up of a bundle of 5 trees!
Arbor Day is tomorrow (!!!) and to celebrate we are giving away 300 tree saplings! Stop by our office (directions below) today (April 29th) starting at 10AM for a contact-free pick up of a bundle of 5 trees!
Then tomorrow (Arbor Day!!!) plant your new saplings to celebrate the greatest holiday ever PLUS check us out on Instagram (@RussellTreeExperts) as our entire crew will be joining forces to plant 5,000 trees at Walnut Woods Metro Park for our TREE FOR A TREE® program!
Arbor Day is the greatest day, right?!
0 BUNDLES REMAINING!
Pick-Up Location
To pick up your free trees, visit our office (address below) and pull into the front parking lot. The trees will be available on the table in front of our office door. Please only take one bundle per household. Enjoy! Address: 3427 E Dublin-Granville Rd Westerville, Ohio 43081
Tree TYPES
Each bundle includes five tree saplings: Bur Oak, Redbud, Swamp White Oak, Sycamore, and thornless Honeylocust. Please note, these are tree saplings that range from 6-24 inches tall.
How to Plant Your Trees!
STEP 1
Soak your tree sapling in water for 5 to 7 minutes to thoroughly moisten the sapling’s root system.
STEP 2
Select your tree planting site. Avoid planting your sapling within 5 to 10 feet of any large obstructions such as mature trees or buildings.
STEP 3
Measure the sapling’s base of the root to its root flare to determine the depth of your hole.
STEP 4
Dig your hole!
STEP 5
Ensure that your hole is the appropriate depth. To do so, place your sapling in the hole and ensure that the root flare is equal with the surrounding soil level.
STEP 6
Make adjustments to the hole’s depth if necessary.
STEP 7
Fill in your hole with the dug-up soil. Lightly compact the soil as you begin to reach ground level.
STEP 8
Ensure the root flare is fully exposed to oxygen and not mounded with soil.
STEP 9
Take a picture and tag @RussellTreeExperts on Instagram & Facebook! You are now finished planting your tree sapling!
STEP 10
Learn more about the TREE FOR A TREE® program!
17
Seventeen years ago near this season I was starting my second year as an arborist in training. A few months more into the year and I would be applying to the ISA to sit for the Certified Arborist examination, which thankfully I would pass. At this point in my career, I was fortunate to be working under a foreman who was (and is) passionate about trees, so as I learned primarily about climbing and pruning, I was also being taught about CODIT, tree identification, and common tree pests and diseases.
Seventeen years ago near this season I was starting my second year as an arborist in training. A few months more into the year and I would be applying to the ISA to sit for the Certified Arborist examination, which thankfully I would pass. At this point in my career, I was fortunate to be working under a foreman who was (and is) passionate about trees, so as I learned primarily about climbing and pruning, I was also being taught about CODIT, tree identification, and common tree pests and diseases.
For those who mark time by political events, George W. Bush was president at the time, serving the first of what would be two consecutive terms.
Technologically, the first iPhone was still not to be available for another 3 years, so we were truly living in a different world. I think it was around this time that I purchased my first mobile telephone after stubbornly holding out for several years.
Ecologically, 2004 was the first year I directly experienced the effects of the 17-year cicada. Since then the world has turned and changed until the different cogs and wheels have aligned once more to allow the offspring of that very brood to emerge. As I sit and write this, the final instar (development stage) of those eggs that were laid 17 years ago are undergoing the last steps of maturation, soon to emerge as adults. I imagine them crawling up out of the ground, squinting at the sunlight (as they would if they had eyelids), crawling up a tree, a fence post, and going to sleep one last time. The sleep of pupation ends with an awakening into a new form. For 17 years these nymphs have been slowly growing, feeding on roots underground, changing mostly only in size. Now, something shifts inside and they decide to crawl into that great world above and go to sleep in the sun. And lo and behold, this time they awake as something very different. Who could have guessed that winged creatures would emerge from these slow, crawling, subsurface dwellers? They cast off the old husk of what they were and take to the sky, flying from tree to tree. The world aboveground has changed into something very different from what it was when these eggs were first laid. The changes that humans experience at times so tumultuously may have been experienced by these nymphs as distant rumblings or far off vibrations, or not at all.
What to expect
I have had several clients already ask me about the 17-year cicada, and what should be expected this season. Here is what I recall from my second year as an arborist:
1.
For the squeamish, these insects are a challenge. They are harmless, but they are large and very imposing. As less than graceful fliers, they can be startling when several of them fly into you if you walk past an infested tree. They make a buzzing sound as they fly, clumsily careening off of branches, arms, and faces.
2.
Also for the squeamish, despite the fact that they are harmless, they do not look so. I remember an insect with large clear wings, blackish body, and large, beady, red eyes.
3.
The 17-year cicada makes up for the fact that it is hardly ever around by emerging in large numbers. The noise made by the males as they sing for the females can be quite deafening and is mostly constant. One thinks that the females must be attracted not by the quality of the song, but by the male who can keep shrieking the longest. (And the “singing” is not really that – I imagine the sound is produced by rubbing body parts together similar to a cricket).
4.
The females use an ovipositor to cut slits into the outer twigs of trees, usually choosing twig growth from the previous year. Looking closely at these slits, the eggs are visible as whitish, elongated structures carefully lined up in the slit.
5.
This ovipositing can weaken the stem, causing it to break and hang off the tree. The leaves on the stem die, making the tree appear to have brown flags all over the canopy.
6.
Many times the twigs do not break off, but the wounding on the stem allows an opening for pathogens to enter the tree. I have seen sugar maples with cankers formed on each and every twig that had cicada oviposition, creating a very spectacular appearance in the tree.
I have also noted mature pear trees going into decline in the years following a cicada infestation – the declining growth can be traced back to the year the eggs were laid on the stem.
Regarding that last point – I always wondered if the decline was associated with some unknown pathogen vectored by the cicadas. Then I recently listened to a lecture by Dr. Klooster at OSU. She explained that in the final year prior to cicada adult emergence the nymphs were at their largest size, and fed most heavily on tree roots prior to emerging for their pupation into adults. Given the decline in trees that I had traced back to the year of oviposition, in my mind I correlated this heavy root feeding with an additional taxing of tree resources which could cause a temporary decline in the tree. This taxing of resources coupled with potential pathogen entry into the tree at the canopy and root level could definitely cause decline.
As tree owners, what do we do?
The trees I have noticed going into decline following a cicada infestation are thankfully few and far between. For the most part, mature trees deal with the issue quite well. Newly planted trees are another story. A tree that has been recently transplanted is already going through transplant stress. The added stress of twig damage and possible foliage loss from the ovipositing female can harm smaller trees. Given their size, these trees can be wrapped with netting to keep the cicadas from accessing the outer canopy. My wife was able to find a sale of material called tulle – it is a light netting that I hope to be able to use to wrap my younger trees to avoid most of the damage. If I am successful, this means that I will also avoid the first hatchling nymphs dropping into the soil below my trees and feeding on the tree roots for the next 17 years. My advice is to wait until the new leaves have hardened off and then use a light netting small enough to keep the cicadas out. Cover the tree canopy and monitor to make sure no adults are getting in. Once the cicadas are gone the netting can be removed. From what I recall it seemed like the cicadas emerged sometime in June and persisted for several weeks into the summer. I can state with confidence that if this brood is going to be a damaging presence in your landscape you will not be unaware of it.
In closing
In closing, I think of all the changes that have taken place since 2004. We are on our fifth presidential term since President Bush’s first term 17 years ago. Most of us now possess a smartphone of some kind, and spend a lot of time staring at it. In 2004 I never dreamed I would live through a pandemic! My hair has gone gray, and I have a lot less of it. A friend introduced me to an amazing woman who later agreed to become my wife. More than half of the time I have been part of the team at Russell Tree Experts.
Take stock for a moment. This is an interesting milestone. The 17-year cicadas may be an inconvenience, but the regularity of this brood (and there are several other broods that emerge at different time intervals) is actually quite fascinating. Why 17 years? And how 17 years? Who is counting for the insect? Theories abound, and other stories, but the rebellious part of me enjoys knowing that we don’t really know. In the meantime, I will sign off, wondering for a moment where I will be 17 years from now. Just think, it will be 2038. We will have gone through three or four more presidents after President Biden. Who knows what technology will be in our pockets? If I am not retired yet, I will be looking at retirement right in the face.
Go out and plant a tree this fall. In 17 years it will be big enough that you won’t have to worry about wrapping it with netting.
Nothing like a bit of perspective to balance your day. When the next 17-year cicada brood emerges, most of our current struggles will be almost all forgotten. I hope that serves to keep us from getting too worked up about some things we are going through today.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist, wishing you all the best,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
How to Mulch Around a Tree
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
April 7, 2021
Mulching is an important aspect of tree maintenance that is both functional and decorative, adding to your tree’s lifespan and helping it look its best. The main benefits of tree mulching are that it deters weeds, improves soil quality, protects trees from lawnmower damage, insulates soil from extreme temperatures, and retains moisture during hot weather. Today, I would like to talk about some tips and tricks on how to properly mulch a tree. At the top of this article is an instructional video hosted by ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice that can be used to follow along while mulching your own tree!
Example of a properly mulched tree
To mulch a tree, you will need organic wood chip mulch, a shovel, a rake, and personal protective equipment such as safety glasses, gloves, and boots. A wheelbarrow or air spade may potentially be needed depending on the situation. The best time to mulch a tree is in the fall or spring. Many trees are incorrectly mulched when the mulch is too high or when it covers the root collar of the tree, which is where the trunk and roots meet. The mulch only needs to be 1 to 2 inches deep and the root collar should be completely exposed in order to properly receive oxygen. This will help prevent girdling roots, which are roots that wrap around the trunk in search of oxygen. This can suffocate a tree and add unnecessary stress. If your tree has girdling roots or a mulch volcano, you will need to resolve these issues prior to mulching.
If there are no girdling roots, the first step is to pull out any weeds surrounding the base of the tree. Then, you may begin applying mulch in a wide and evenly spread area. For younger trees, it is ideal to mulch all the way out to the canopy drip line, which is where the majority of a tree’s roots extend, but you may have to compromise depending on your landscape.
Example of a canopy drip line
For older trees, this is not as important. You should still see similar results when bringing the mulch out about 3 to 5 feet from the base. You can use a rake, shovel, or your hands to evenly distribute the mulch. The mulch only has to be about 1 to 2 inches deep at most, so make sure you avoid mounding, Leave about 2 to 3 inches of space between the mulch and the root collar in order for the tree to properly receive oxygen and to prevent girdling roots. This will also help prevent any moisture issues, which can lead to disease and rotting. Afterwards, you are all set!
For maintenance, water your mulch whenever it looks dry. Ohio can have inconsistent weather, so there is no need to water it on a scheduled basis. Also, only add mulch whenever it is looking sparse and below that 1 to 2 inch needed depth. Make sure you break up, turn over, and mix in the old mulch to prolong the mulch’s lifespan, prevent any clumping, and to allow maximum movement of oxygen and water. If there are any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below and be sure to watch ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice’s video for a visual guide on this topic! Good luck on your next mulching project!
Additional Reads!
Below are two excellent articles written by our ISA Certified Arborists related to mulch volcanoes and girdling roots.
”Mulch Mounds! Oh My!”
by ISA Board Certified Master Arborist José Fernández
“Are Your Trees Being Suffocated By Their Own Roots?”
by ISA Certified Arborist Chris Gill
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
How to Verify a Certified Arborist Credential
Recently, it was brought to my attention that there are some people performing tree work in the area claiming to be “certified arborists” when in fact, they are not. So… how can you tell if someone is telling the truth? One way is to ask for a business card or ask for their ISA Certified Arborist® credential number which will be in the following format: [state abbreviation] – [four digits] [letter]. Here is an example of a business card (mine!) with the credential number explicitly listed:
The best way to verify this credential number is to search on the ISA Certified Arborist® database. Simply go to treesaregood.org, click the “Find an Arborist” section then choose “Verify a Credential.” From there, enter the credential certification number and submit the request to see if the credential is in fact genuine.
Over my time working at Russell Tree Experts, I’ve sadly heard countless stories of “door knockers” coming by a person’s home and ruining their beloved tree. It’s a very sad occurrence in our industry and we hope through education these stories can lessen.
Improper tree work not only can cause irreparable damage to the tree or property, but there is also potential for spreading disease to nearby trees and affecting others’ landscapes. Tree care can also be very dangerous work, for both the property owner and the person doing the work. We highly recommend hiring an ISA Certified professional (even if it’s not us!) with the proper equipment, knowledge, and experience to perform your challenging tree work. The health of our environment relies on proper care for our trees so we may enjoy their countless benefits from improving air quality to providing homes for wildlife and beyond!
We’re very proud to have 19 ISA Certified Arborists® on our staff! Feel free to double-check their credentials at treesaregood.org! :)
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
Is my boxwood trying to tell me something?
A truly fascinating and audible phenomenon is happening in Ohio gardens right now. The tiny worm-like larvae of the boxwood leaf miner have awoken and are voraciously feeding inside boxwood leaves.
A truly fascinating and audible phenomenon is happening in Ohio gardens right now. The tiny worm-like larvae of the boxwood leaf miner have awoken and are voraciously feeding inside boxwood leaves. This chewing can be so noisy that it can be heard standing several feet away, as I experienced while inspecting a property in Lewis Center last week. Typically, though, a crackling noise can be heard by putting your ear near an “unhealthy-looking” boxwood this time of year. If you gently break open a leaf, you will discover the hungry invaders, wiggling between the leaf surfaces.
Hear the sound of larvae feeding on the leaves of a boxwood — just Ignore the sound of the chirping birds!
These larvae will soon, within weeks, finish their development and exit the leaves as adult flies. They resemble small yellow or orange mosquitoes that hover around the shrub while they breed and lay eggs inside the new boxwood spring leaves. The eggs hatch in summer and begin to devour the internal leaf tissue causing blister-like wounds. A boxwood that has been infested for a few years will look sickly in general with yellow, orange, or brown splotches on the leaves. Defoliation and even death is possible if the infestation is extensive and left untreated.
Gently break open a leaf to witness the hungry invaders. © Russell Tree Experts
If you notice a ruckus coming from your shrubs this spring, do not ignore it. Eavesdrop on them yourself or call Russell Tree Experts to have one of our knowledgeable arborists diagnose this pest and evict them from your shrubbery.
I wish you a lovely spring filled with the sounds of songbirds, not munching maggots.
Krista Harris | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA certified arborist in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia.