Spotted Lanternfly: They're Here!

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
July 3, 2025

In early 2022, I sent out a message warning people to keep an eye out for the spotted lanternfly (SLF) as it was on the move from our neighboring state of Pennsylvania. As of 2025, Franklin County is on the quarantined county list for the Ohio Department of Agriculture. Linked below is a visual map of all quarantined counties in Ohio for SLF:

https://content.govdelivery.com/attachments/OHDOA/2025/05/12/file_attachments/3258039/draft%20SLF%20Quarantine%20_4-16-2025.pdf

The spotted lanternfly is an invasive insect that feeds on various plant species, with its primary host being tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but has been seen feeding on over 70 different species of plants. Side note: SLF’s attraction to tree-of-heaven is yet another reason why it’s considered a highly invasive tree and should not be planted in Ohio.

Preferred host plants for SLF depending on the time of year and stage of life cycle. (Source: PennState Extension)

Frontal view of a spotted lanternfly. Source: GH Photos Alamy Stock. PSU Extension.

SLF are not harmful to humans as they cannot bite or sting, but they are large in their adult form and look intimidating.

Spotted lanternfly insects are sap suckers and feed on the sap through a tiny, straw-like mouth part. While feeding, they excrete honeydew which has been known to resemble a light rain in forested parts of infested areas. SLF is a plant stressor that, combined with other stressors, can cause significant damage to the host plant. SLF alone may not necessarily kill a tree; it has only been known to kill grapevines, tree-of-heavens, and black walnut saplings directly.

We need to slow the spread of SLF by checking vehicles and any outdoor equipment for egg deposits. If they are present, they need to be destroyed and not moved across quarantine lines. Eggs are laid in the fall from September to December and will hatch in the spring from April to June. They lay their eggs on trees, decks, houses, outdoor equipment, and cars, and are protected by a mud-like covering, making the egg masses difficult to spot.

Spotted lanternfly egg masses

Adults begin to emerge in July and remain active until a hard freeze. 

Adult spotted lanternfly insects

Late spring/early summer

Spotted lanternfly nymph

When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.

Management options

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution for how to eliminate SLF. Biologically speaking, there are currently no known natural enemies of SLF. Some general predators like spiders and birds have been observed attacking SLF. Culturally speaking, removing trees that are preferred hosts for SLF can minimize the risk of SLF in your area. We would only recommend tree removal if the tree is a tree-of-heaven as it is highly invasive in Ohio or if the tree is already heavily decayed and at risk of damaging your property. Mechanically, SLF eggs can be destroyed by contact with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer. SLF nymphs or insects can also be destroyed by smashing them, such as by boot or fly swatter.

Contact insecticides can be used by spraying either the nymphs or the adults from May through October. Be cautious of spraying actively blooming plants to minimize the risk of killing beneficial insects. Systemic insecticides can be used to control and kill SLF adults from May through September. According to PennState Extension, chemical products containing beta-cyfluthrin or bifenthrin have shown excellent results against SLF. One such product that should be available at a nearby gardening store is Ortho BugClear. Unfortunately, due to SLF being nimble and fast travelers, just because you treat your property or plant material once, doesn’t mean they won’t come back. Linked below is a great resource by PennState Extension with more information on managing SLF. To be clear, we’re not sponsored by PennState Extension or Ortho.

https://extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly-management-guide

Please be diligent about stopping the spread of this invasive pest. When traveling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas.

If you believe your tree might be infested with spotted lanternfly insects, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote to determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

Please note: This article was originally published on 7/31/2024 and was revised on 7/3/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Operations Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey is an ISA Certified Arborist® and joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

Some Mites Like It Hot... Ready or Not!

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist®
July 25, 2024​

As the average temperatures rise, hungry spider mites thrive! These tiny leaf suckers love hot and dry weather and are currently causing many of our beloved foundation shrubs to look sickly and even lose their leaves entirely.

Spider mites on a burning bush

Spider mite damage on burning bush (Euomymus alatus) and on boxwood (Buxus sp.) is common in the summer months. These typically dependably green shrubs will begin to take on a yellow or bronze cast when infested, and, upon closer inspection, a distinct stippling or scratched appearance of the leaves will become apparent. This characteristic pattern is caused by feeding of the mites on the undersides of the plant’s leaves. Many generations of this tiny sucker can occur per summer. A complete generation can take less than a week during 90°F temperatures and without significant rainfall. That’s a lot of babies at 100 eggs per female!

The twospotted spider mite is the species that afflicts the burning bush. These mites will also feed on many other species when available including viburnum, roses, edible plants, perennials and houseplants. In full sun conditions (especially near hardscape like driveways or brick walls) you may see their webbing binding the leaves and even tiny mites moving within the web. This species of mite overwinters as adults in leaf litter and in soil. It's important to clean up and bag any fallen leaves in the fall so that you can reduce the population of these pests before they wake up next spring.

View fullsize

Burning bush with spider mites

View fullsize

The boxwood spider mite can only feed on boxwood species. This makes it a “host specific” species of spider mite and will not cause damage to any other plants in your landscape. This mite also differs from the twospotted spider mite in that it creates no webs, it feeds on the upper surface of the leaf as well as the bottom surface and it overwinters as eggs on the boxwood plant.

View fullsize

Boxwood with spider mites

View fullsize

If you want to check your plants for these "pepper sized" pests or suspect you may have a growing spider mite issue, the best way is to firmly smack the twig over a white piece of paper. Look closely and you may see tiny mites crawling on the paper.

As a preventative measure, it is a great idea to give both your burning bushes and boxwoods a heavy spray with your hose nozzle. Do this twice a week in hot, dry weather (over 85°F). Concentrate on the undersides of the leaves especially to attempt to dislodge adults and eggs.

Keeping your plants watered during the summer also really helps to curb serious infestations. If plants are stressed for water, they will be much more likely to become overrun with spider mites and also insect pests like scale, aphids and lacebug.

If you would like one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® to scout your landscape for spider mites and give you options to control these proliferous pests, please contact our office at (614) 895-7000 or request a free quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote. We offer many options to get spider mites under control and we will help determine the best course of action for your specific trees and shrubs! Have a great summer and make sure to keep yourself watered as well!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]

Deep Root Irrigation: Another way to water!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
July 18, 2024​

Every day over the last couple of weeks I have observed newly planted trees in parks, along streets, and in front yards dry up and lose all their leaves because they are not receiving adequate water. As the weather continues to heat up in central Ohio, this is the time of year to pay special attention to your newly planted trees (and shrubs) to ensure they do not dry out. All trees need water to healthily grow, photosynthesize, and be more resistant to pests and disease. However, newly planted trees (trees planted within the last 3 growing seasons) need extra watering help throughout this time of year because they have limited root systems and less access to moisture. Whether your new trees are deciduous, evergreen, big, small, or listed as a drought tolerant species, it must receive supplemental water this time of year.  

As a quick review, remember that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of the newly planted trees. Traditionally, tree watering should be performed regularly, slowly, deeply and in the area with active feeder roots. For more detailed information on general watering practices check out my article and video on watering HERE! 

Today, I’d like to introduce a new tree watering service we are providing called Deep Root Irrigation (DRI).  DRI is intended to efficiently deliver water to tree roots that need special assistance getting adequate hydration. 

How Does Deep Root Irrigation Work?

With DRI, we use an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water six to eight inches deep into the root zone of the tree. Using the lance beneath the surface of the soil helps to bypass turf, groundcover, or weed roots and delivers the water directly to the root zone of the tree. 

An irrigation lance used for deep root irrigation.

Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.

The tip of an irrigation lance spraying water at about 200 psi in 4 separate streams.

Since the water is being injected directly into the root zone of the tree with no chance of run off, the water can be applied to the tree quickly as opposed to the longer, deeper soaking that is required with traditional tree watering that starts above the soil surface. With DRI we can thoroughly apply the recommended 10 gallons of water to a new planted 2 inch dbh (diameter at breast height) balled-and-burlapped tree in 2 to 3 minutes. The amount of recommended water for a tree will vary depending on the particular tree’s size, level of establishment, and planting site.  

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel performing a deep root irrigation using an irrigation lance!

What Trees Benefit From Deep Root Irrigation?

While tree watering is essential for ALL trees, certain trees will benefit from deep root irrigation more than others such as:

• Newly planted trees in landscapes whose owners are away during the hot or dry seasons. A 2 week gap in watering is all it takes for a tree to dry out while it’s owners are enjoying vacation

• Newly planted trees that are not close to a watering source (park trees, street trees or trees inaccessible by hose)

• Established trees in restricted root zones (ex: parking lots or sidewalk cut outs)

• Trees that recently experienced soil compaction or root disturbance events

• Established trees that have recently received a root zone invigoration

• Trees experiencing stress from insect infestation or disease

• Over mature trees in the beginnings of decline

• Established trees during extreme periods of drought

How Often is Deep Root Irrigation Needed?

There is not a one size fits all answer to this question. Watering is essential to newly planted trees during most of the growing season (May through October). In general, a newly planted 2 inch dbh balled-and-burlapped tree should receive roughly 10 gallons of water once every 7 to 10 days. If you have newly planted trees that you regularly care for, but plan to be away for a short time on vacation during the growing season, DRI is likely to only be needed while you are away. If you have a large old tree that is in the beginnings of decline, a thorough DRI once a month during the summer months will go a long way to maintaining health and vigor. Every situation is different.

To request a quote, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/quote or call us at 614-895-7000 and one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can help determine the best care for your trees!

DEEP ROOT IRRIGATION IN ACTION!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Your Friendly Neighborhood Spider-lift

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist®
June 27, 2024​

Our CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro® tracked aerial lift, commonly referred to as a “spider lift,” is one of the most versatile, but misunderstood machines in our fleet. It is invaluable for working in tight spaces beyond the reach of more traditional equipment and can provide safer, more efficient working conditions for our arborists. 

As an ISA Certified Arborist® and regional manager at Russell Tree Experts, I want to highlight the benefits and limitations of this machine. At the end of this article is also a video showcasing our spider lift!

Specifications 

Over the last couple of years, we have used various spider lifts as part of our fleet, so the specifications can and will vary as time passes. Below are the specifications for our current CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro®:

Our CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro spider lift in action on a residential tree removal job in Westerville, Ohio

• Weight: 9,025 pounds

• Max Basket Load Capacity: 507 pounds

• Max Working Height: 90 feet

• Max Lateral Reach: 50 feet

• Multiple rotation, articulation, and telescoping boom points for flexible work positioning

• 360 degree operation

• Length: 22 feet, 3 Inches with basket or 19 feet, 10 inches without basket

• Extendable, non-marking, rubber tracks

• Width: 35 inches with tracks in, 55 inches with tracks extended

  • 35 inch width is great for squeezing past fence gates

  • 55 inch width is great for increased stability, especially during towing and transport

• Once in position, a footprint of approximately 14X20 feet is needed to extend the stabilizer legs and rotate the boom (hence the “spider” moniker)

• 3 points of operation by the tracks, in the bucket, and with a wireless remote control
  

Spider Lift USE Cases

Employing rigging techniques alongside our spider lift to remove this tree due to a small drop zone

• Drop zones too small for tree felling

• Spaces too small, soft, sensitive, or far away to reach with larger machines like bucket trucks, cranes, telescopic handlers, etc

• Trees too decayed, compromised, or dead (this has proven to be the most critical asset)

• Trees with significantly larger or wide canopies and/or multiple trees able to be reached with one or minimal setups

• Safer, quicker work positioning for less experienced or physically capable climbers

NON-IDEAL SPIDER LIFT SCENARIOS

Our team member Bodi in our spider lift!

• Steep slopes or uneven terrain - the spider lift is a long, heavy, narrow machine that can roll over! 

• Soft or sensitive work zones where turf impact and compaction is unacceptable. If the turf is soft due to rain, we may reschedule tree work for another, dryer day

  • Note: The spider lift will have less turf impact than a bucket truck or crane, but will leave a footprint nonetheless

• Near electrical hazards - Our buckets at this time are uninsulated and we will need to follow minimum approach distance (MAD)

• Small trees or large, nonintrusive work zones - getting the spider lift on and off the trailer and in to and out of its work position is a tedious process – a tree that can be climbed or felled safely in an hour or two is usually not worth the extra steps 

~~~

We at Russell Tree Experts are constantly seeking new techniques and machines to make tree work as safe and low-impact as possible. While our spider lift isn’t a perfect solution, it provides us with another option to maximize efficiency and limit damage. As always, if you’re in the central Ohio area looking for tree work, please feel free to request a free tree inspection and quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®! You might even get to see the spider lift working on your own property!

Spider Lift Showcase

SPIDERLIFT TREE WORK VIDEOS

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Bagworms: Why they are bad news & How to get rid of them

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
June 19, 2025

A bagworm on a Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens)

Bagworms are a serious pest to a variety of ornamental plants in our landscapes. Bagworms are the caterpillars of a moth. These caterpillars are called “bagworms” because they wrap themselves in a bag constructed of material from their host plant. The bags camouflage the bagworms from predators as they feed and can also make effective treatments challenging. Understanding their life cycle, preferred host plants, feeding habits, and effective treatment methods are crucial for managing infestations and preserving the health of your plants. 

Life Cycle of Bagworms

Bagworms undergo a fascinating life cycle, transitioning through various stages from egg to adult moth. Let’s start with the hatching of the eggs and the main feeding stage. This is the stage that is the most noticeable and damaging to the host plant. Starting in early June into July, the larvae emerge hungry and begin constructing their protective cases using silk and surrounding plat materials. As they feed on foliage, they expand and reinforce their bags, incorporating leaves, twigs, and other debris to camouflage themselves and deter predators.    

After reaching maturity, which typically takes several weeks, the larvae stop feeding and prepare for pupation. Within the safety of their bags, they undergo metamorphosis, and the males emerge as adult moths and the female bagworm remains in the bag for mating. Once mated the female bagworm lays her eggs and their life cycle is over at this point. There can be as many as 500-1000 eggs. The eggs overwinter inside the dead female's bag and the cycle begins again in the spring.   

Feeding Habits

The larval stage of bagworm is the main feeding stage, consuming foliage from their host plants as they construct their protective bags. This feeding stage can last several weeks to a couple of months depending on environmental conditions and the availability of food sources. They use their silk threads to anchor themselves to branches or leaves, where they remain while feeding. As they consume foliage, they gradually defoliate the plant, weakening its overall health and potentially causing significant damage if left untreated. Complete defoliation often leads to plant death. Once the bagworm reaches maturity, they quit feeding and focus on mating.   

Main Host Plants

Bagworms are known to infest a wide range of host plants. Some of the most common host plants for bagworms include:  

• Evergreens: Arborvitae, juniper, cedar, pine, spruce, and cypress are often targeted by bagworms, which can cause severe damage to these trees if left unchecked.  

• Deciduous Trees: Bagworms may also infest deciduous trees such as honey locust, oak, maple, sycamore, willow, and poplar, feeding on their leaves and weakening the overall health of the tree.  

• Ornamental Shrubs: Boxwood, azalea, holly, and other ornamental shrubs are susceptible to bagworm infestations, which can defoliate and disfigure these plants if not addressed promptly.  

While bagworms are adaptable and may infest various plant species, their preference for evergreen trees is most common.  

Colorado blue spruce with bagworms

Twig dieback due to bagworms

Treatment Options 

Managing bagworm infestations can be done in a few ways - culturally, mechanically, or with chemical control methods. The most effective strategy will depend on the severity of the infestation and the size of the plants that are being treated. The following are some effective strategies for treating bagworm infestations:  

• Handpicking: In smaller infestations, manually removing bags from affected plants can be an effective control method. Simply pluck the bags from the branches and dispose of them properly to attempt to prevent future infestations.  You can throw them in the trash or burn them.

• Biological Control: Introducing natural predators of bagworms, such as parasitic wasps, or predatory insects, can help reduce populations naturally without the need for chemical intervention. (Flowers with lots of nectar can attract these predator insects). I like this method but do not recommend relying on it for managing heavily infested plants.

• Insecticides: Applying two well timed insecticide sprays spaced two weeks apart has been the most effective way to control bagworms. Applying the product early while the larva is feeding and in the initial stages of making their bag is essential. Once they have constructed a bag around their bodies, insecticides are far less effective.

- - -

Bagworms may be small but their impact on plants can be quite serious. The damage is not obvious early in the season because the caterpillars and their bags are small, and the bags can be difficult to see until large numbers are present. Bagworms often are not detected by the untrained observer until August after severe defoliation has occurred. Getting to the plants early and detecting a problem can save a lot of headaches. At Russell Tree Experts we are trained to spot bagworms and use the OSU phenology calendar to properly time applications for effective control.  For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office at (614) 895-700!

Please note: This article was originally published on 5/22/2024 and was revised on 6/19/2025.

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Tree Preservation Videos!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Be Alert: Lecanium Scale

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-0192A
June 11, 2025​

“What is wrong with my tree?”

This is a question we receive on a daily basis. Sometimes it is obvious what is going on with your tree, but other times it may require a more thorough investigation. Many of the more obvious tree problems can be the result of mechanical, environmental or disease problems. However, the issue that I am writing about today is insect related, which often is less noticeable until populations get out of hand and start to cause damage. One such insect that can cause significant damage to trees this time of year is the European fruit lecanium scale. This is just one of many types of scale, so proper identification is a must as most scale insects have different life cycles and different control recommendations.

Female lecanium scale

Lecanium scale is considered a soft scale with a wide host range. In central Ohio, trees that are most affected by this insect are callery pear, crabapple, and fruit trees; although we do occasionally see infestations in birch,  honeylocust, oak, and hickory trees. Lecanium scale is most noticeable when the females fill up with eggs. Over 1,000 eggs can be produced by one female. This is why the insect can get out of control quickly if left unnoticed and untreated. Immediate damage is typically minimal with minor branch dieback and leaf discoloration. However, with large populations of lecanium scale feeding over multiple growing seasons, the consequences can lead to stunted growth or premature death of the host tree.

Scale typically overwinter as second instar nymphs on the bark of trees. This stage is sometimes hard to notice, unless there are dead females from the previous year present at the same time. As your plants begin to break bud and leaf out in the early spring, this is when lecanium scale starts to feed. As the females feed and start to produce eggs, you’ll can easily see the large bump like structures on the stems of infested trees. You may also notice honeydew starting to drip from the branches as well. The honeydew on heavily infested trees can make everything under the tree very sticky. This attracts many other insects like flies, wasps, and ants. It also supports the growth of a black sooty mold, which can negatively affect plant growth as well. The eggs typically hatch in early to mid-June coinciding with the bloom of the Washington hawthorn tree in Ohio. This is called the crawler stage when the eggs hatch and crawl out to the leaves to begin feeding. This is the time when lecanium scale are at their most vulnerable stage. After feeding through the summer, the insect returns to the bark to overwinter.

Second-instar nymphs that overwintered on the tree stems. Note white waxy covering beginning to form. Scales are in their final fixed position, actively feeding and growing. Note droplets of honeydew here and there.

Each of these nymphs will mature into adult females that will be about 10 times their current size by the time they lay their clutch of 100 or more eggs.

This is a new infestation. An old infestation would also have the dead female bodies of last year’s adults alongside the current generation. They would be dark brown and about the size of BBs used for air gun ammunition.

There are many natural predators that feed on lecanium scale, but generally there are not enough to control large populations. This is when treatment options are beneficial. Every situation is different and may require different treatment strategies. Our ISA Certified Arborists® can visit your property and determine the best course of action.  

The most effective way to keep lecanium scale out of your landscape is to avoid planting host plants like crabapples, weeping cherry and callery pear. Keeping plants healthy, vigorous and stress free will also help to reduce the likelihood that lecanium scale takes up residence in your trees. If lecanium scale do make their way into your landscape, two well timed topical insecticide sprays on the crawler stage can help reduce and keep the population at a threshold that damage to the tree is minimal. On very small trees, adults can be removed and destroyed by hand before the eggs hatch.

If you think lecanium scale is a problem on your tree, you can request a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or by speaking to our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!

Please note: This article was originally published on 5/16/2024 and was revised on 6/11/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Tree Care Videos!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

My Journey: Becoming an ISA Certified Arborist®!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 8, 2024

When I started working at Russell Tree Experts as a video production intern (and now media production coordinator), I had no significant knowledge of arboriculture apart from taking courses in environmental science and world of plants in college. I graduated with an associate’s degree in web graphic design from DeVry University in 2018 and with a bachelor's degree in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art with a specialization in photography from The Ohio State University in 2023 and there’s quite a stark contrast between cameras and trees. One of my notable follies is that an “acorn tree” is not a thing and that it is the genus Quercus that produces acorns. I have also been judged for the Colorado blue spruce tree being my favorite tree since it is not native to Columbus and is susceptible to rhizosphaera needle cast. Luckily, throughout my almost 5 years now of working here, I have picked up various things along the way from talking with coworkers, attending meetings and training sessions, researching for a video, and more!

However, now that I have completed school and have some additional free time outside of work, I have decided to take on my next challenge and study to become an ISA Certified Arborist®! To become an ISA Certified Arborist®, one must have at least 3 years of documentable experience in the tree industry (or a combination of formal education and practical arboriculture experience) and must pass the ISA Certified Arborist® Exam with at least a 76% or higher. To learn more about what it takes to become an ISA Certified Arborist®, check out this Arbor Ed article written by my fellow coworker (and ISA Certified Arborist®) Lindsey Rice or visit ISA’s website here.

In my personal life, I try to always be curious, open-minded, and willing to learn and improve, so attaining my ISA Certified Arborist® credential feels like a good, natural next step in my career! Throughout this journey, I hope to expand my knowledge of arboriculture which will help me produce better photos, videos, or written content like social media captions or Arbor Ed articles! I would consider earning this certification a success if I can learn more about arboriculture and be able to use my position and platform here at Russell Tree Experts to spread more knowledge to people that would inevitably lead to better and more informed care of our trees and environment. I do not have a strict target date for when I take the ISA certified arborist exam but as of the time of writing this article, I am currently on chapter 5 out of 16 in my study guide (the 4th Edition Arborists’ Certification Study Guide). So far in my 82 pages of studying, there have already been many important details and interesting facts that I have learned that can go a long way in ensuring the best long-term health for your tree. Below are just a few of many!

Leaves are Life

View fullsize

Leaves are important! Leaves are considered the “food factories” of a tree and have two important roles. First, leaves have cells with chloroplasts. Chloroplasts contain a great pigment known as chlorophyll which is the main leaf pigment that absorbs sunlight. Energy from the sun is collected in the chloroplasts for photosynthesis which converts the energy from sunlight into carbohydrates which is then used by the tree for growth and other processes within the tree. The second function of leaves is transpiration, which is the loss of water through a tree’s foliage in the form of water vapor, which in turn cools the leaf. Transpiration draws water up through the xylem from the roots. This is important for cooling a tree as this is essentially how evaporation occurs for a tree. Transpiration is also the driving force for water from the roots to travel up and through the tree to the shoots for growth. Transpiration is moderated by stomata, which are small openings commonly found on a leaf’s underside which controls the loss of water vapor and gas exchange by opening and closing like a door or gate. 

Root for Your Roots

Roots are also important! They play four key roles in a tree with anchorage, storage, absorption, and conduction. Anchorage is a tree’s ability to stay anchored to the ground so that they do not fall over during adverse weather conditions. Storage is a tree’s ability to store water and nutrients that can be used in the future, such as during the winter months when nutrients might be scarce. Absorption is a tree’s ability to uptake minerals and water. Conduction is a tree’s ability to distribute food and water throughout other parts of the tree like in leaves and stems.

Supportive Soil

For some trees such as maples and oaks, iron and/or manganese deficiency in higher pH soils can lead to chlorosis, the yellowing or whitening of leaves. This is a symptom of a tree not functioning properly. This is one example of why having the proper pH for a tree is important.

Soil is more complex than you may think! Soil is generally composed of 3 materials: clay, silt, and sand. The percentage content of each of these 3 particles determine a large number of factors ranging from the soil’s physical properties like pore space, texture, structure, and bulk density, chemical properties like pH, buffering capacity, and cation exchange capacity (CEC), and biological properties like water holding capacity, food web, and more. All of these different properties are important because if they are not ideal or paired correctly with a particular species of a tree, its growth may be hindered, or the tree may even fail. Two examples are: (1) unideal soil pH can cause nutrient deficiency, and (2) soil compaction can inhibit water flow and gas exchange. Soil has its own diverse ecosystem commonly referred to as a soil food web containing fungi, bacteria, small mammals, earthworms, millipedes, mites, and other insects and organisms that are directly and indirectly beneficial to trees. Collectively, they help to maintain soil structure, decompose organic matter, and aid in nutrient cycling and nutrient mineralization which, to make a long topic short, helps make nutrients available for roots and trees.

Wealth in Water

Water is arguably the most important factor when it comes to a tree’s health. Leaves need water to perform photosynthesis. Roots are important for a tree so that it can uptake water and nutrients. Soil is important so it can hold and provide water for trees. With that said, too much of a good thing can be bad. Trees have adapted to their environment and some trees near coastlines or swamps are thirstier for more water in comparison to trees that have adapted to arid regions like deserts. Drought and heat can cause leaf scorch and leaf drop, twig dieback, or even tree death. Flooding and overwatering can lead to leaf discoloration, defoliation, and crown dieback. It is important to research the tree (or trees) you are considering planting and figure out its water needs. Your local nursery or online resources from colleges, nurseries, laboratories, and more can be helpful! Tools such as bubblers, sprinklers, slow-release watering buckets, soil probes, electronic moisture sensors, and tensiometers can be beneficial in monitoring and adjusting soil moisture. There are also strategies to better manage water for a tree like xeriscaping, the designing a landscape of drought tolerant plants, minimum irrigation, the providing of the minimum amount of water to maintain and not prohibit a tree’s health, growth, and appearance, and hydrozoning, the grouping plants and trees of similar water needs and irrigating on the same schedule. One interesting fact I learned is that recycled or reclaimed water from your home’s water supply can commonly be high in salts and other chemicals which can raise a soil’s pH. Depending on what is planted, this may be a nonissue, but for trees that prefer a slightly acidic soil, this can be a big problem. Learning more about your trees and plants and performing a test on your soil and/or water can be beneficial for you and your trees’ success!

— — —

There are so many important details that I have learned (and not mentioned because I would be here all day) about trees that are essential for their long-term health and survival. Above are just a few pieces of information that I found particularly interesting or useful! I plan on continuing my studies and will provide another update or two with more important details about trees that you might be able to apply to your tree’s maintenance. In the meantime, enjoy your landscape and the upcoming spring weather!

Check out these Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Rhizosphaera Needle Cast: Causes, Symptoms, and Management

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6806A
May 1, 2025

Rhizosphaera needle cast is a fungal disease that affects various species of coniferous trees, particularly spruces throughout central Ohio and the midwest, and has become increasingly common. This disease can cause significant damage to tree health and aesthetics if left untreated. Understanding its causes, symptoms, and management strategies is crucial for preventing its spread and minimizing its impact on host trees in your landscape. Rhizosphaera needle cast, or needle cast for short, is primarily caused by the fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii. This fungus thrives in humid and wet conditions, which Ohio is seeing more and more of now. Spores of the fungus are spread through water splash, wind, and contaminated pruning tools, facilitating its transmission from infected to healthy trees. Colorado blue spruce trees (Picea pungens) is especially vulnerable due to the fact that they much prefer dry, arid environments like in Colorado and Utah.

A young Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) rapidly defoliating

Symptoms

The symptoms of needle cast typically appear on older needles first and progress upwards through the tree. Common symptoms to look out for are:

• Needle Discoloration: Infected needles initially develop yellow or light green spots, which gradually turn brown or purple-ish brown as the disease progresses.

• Needle Dropping: Infected needles may prematurely drop from the tree, leading to sparse foliage and an overall thinning of the canopy.

• Black Fruiting Bodies: Under close inspection, black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus may be visible on the surface of infected needles, particularly during humid conditions. This shows up as very fine black peppering found on the underside of the needles.

Black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii on the surface of infected needles

Effective management strategies of Rhizosphaera needle cast involves a combination of cultural practices, chemical control, and preventive measures.  

Cultural Practices

• Proper Tree Spacing: Ensuring adequate spacing between trees promotes good air circulation, reducing humidity levels and minimizing fungal growth.

• Pruning: Prune infected branches to improve air circulation within the canopy and remove sources of fungal spores. Also, lightly elevating the canopy of a tree above the ground can help increase airflow.

• Mulching: Apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of trees to retain soil moisture and reduce stress, which can help trees resist fungal infections. 
  

Chemical Control

Apply fungicidal sprays containing active ingredients such as chlorothalonil or copper hydroxide during the spring months as new growth is emerging. Multiple applications in 10 to 14-day intervals applied annually are most effective, however, there is no end-all cure for this fungal disease.

Preventive Measures

• Monitoring: Regularly inspect trees for early signs of infection, especially during periods of high humidity.

• Water Management: Avoid overhead watering and excessive irrigation, as these practices can create ideal conditions for fungal growth. Water trees in the morning or evening to avoid foliage staying wet overnight. Water the tree’s roots and surrounding soil area directly as opposed to watering the foliage.

• Plant Selection: Some other options that may be suitable for your landscape include, but are not limited to: Concolor fir (if you desire the silvery blue color), Norway spruce, green giant arborvitae, and Canadian hemlock.  

Purple-ish brown needle discoloration, a symptom of rhizosphaera needle cast

Rhizosphaera needle cast poses a significant threat to the health and vitality of coniferous trees, particularly Colorado blue spruce. By understanding the causes, symptoms, and management strategies associated with this fungal disease I hope that you will, as a Colorado blue spruce owner, help keep these beautiful trees healthy. Through a combination of cultural practices, chemical controls, and preventive measures, it is possible to mitigate the impact of Rhizosphaera needle cast and preserve the beauty and ecological value of our coniferous forests and landscapes. If you suspect your trees are infected or need advice on proper tree maintenance, request a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® (myself included) at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000! Have a happy summer, we’re looking forward to helping you with your trees!

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 5/2/25 from its original publish date of 5/1/24]

---

Check Out These Tree Preservation Videos!

Additional ARBOR ED™ Articles!

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

The Root of Many Plant Problems in Central Ohio: Soil pH

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist
January 16, 2025​

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/16/25 from its original publish date of 4/24/24.]

You’ve probably heard the term pH. You may even think “I know this one - it means something is either acidic, neutral, or alkaline”, and that wouldn’t be wrong. But what does that mean and why does it matter? What determines the pH of soil, water, or even the human body? Like the periodic table of elements, pH may be something that reminds you of high school chemistry class, something you’ve filed away under the “when am I ever going to use this?” section of your brain, long ago forgotten and collecting dust ever since it was put there. While pH is far from being an endorphin-producing topic, it does significantly influence plant growth and overall health in your landscape. Let’s discuss the role that soil pH plays in nutrient availability, soil chemistry, and even microorganism activity, and why it matters for your plants.

pH and How It’s Influenced

pH stands for “potential of hydrogen”, and is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, ranging from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. A value below 7 is considered acidic while a value above 7 is considered alkaline (or basic). This scale represents the concentration of hydrogen ions present, with acidic solutions having a greater number of ions and alkaline solutions having fewer ions. In soils, that concentration of hydrogen ions is influenced by things such as the parent rock material that originally formed the soil, human activity, climate, and the presence or lack of organic matter. In turn, the resulting pH will influence the availability of nutrients essential for plant growth, microbial activity that helps with nutrient absorption, and soil chemistry that influences the breakdown of soil particles into more usable forms. Of the influencing factors mentioned above, parent rock material and the presence or lack of organic matter often go hand in hand and are the most significant influencers in our central Ohio landscapes. Central Ohio largely consists of limestone bedrock, which naturally has a higher pH than what’s preferable for most plants. So you might ask “Well, how is it then that any plants can be healthy and thrive in central Ohio?”. The answer is organic matter. In an undisturbed, natural environment like the forest, years and years of organic matter have formed on top of the infamous “Ohio clay” subsoil that we encounter in our backyards. The source of this organic matter comes from falling leaves, dead branches and trees, and dying organisms just to name a few, that collect on the forest floor year after year, decade after decade. These are all things we tend to remove from our landscapes to keep them tidy, which results in a lack of organic matter formation over time. For more on how to address this topic, check out our Arbor Ed article “Leave those Leaves!”

Nutrient Availability

Chlorosis in a pin oak tree in Bexley, Ohio

pH influences the availability of essential nutrients in the soil by changing their level of solubility. This simply means that pH will determine whether or not these nutrients are in a form that can be absorbed by the tiny roots and roots hairs of plants. Most plants will prefer growing in soil with a pH range between 6-7, slightly acidic to neutral. When the pH is out of its optimal range for a particular plant (generally too high in central Ohio), the plant’s growth may slow, it may lose overall health and vigor, or conditions like chlorosis can develop because that plant isn’t getting the nutrients it needs to carry out essential functions for growth. Chlorosis, or yellowing of leaf tissue, is a very common condition in central Ohio and can be seen most often with trees like pin oak, red maple, white pine, and river birch. It’s interesting to note that these are trees that are either native to Ohio or an adjacent region. In their natural habitats where organic matter is abundant, soil pH is lower and nutrients are readily available for uptake. The parent material, derived from limestone and having higher pH levels, does not affect the trees since the absorbing roots are largely growing in the organic layer above it. In our backyards however, carpeted with lawn but cleared annually of leaves, higher pH levels can quickly cause issues even with otherwise healthy trees.

Chart showing availability of essential elements at various pH levels

Microbial Activity

pH affects the activity of microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms are essential for plant health, helping plants to absorb certain nutrients, or aiding in the breakdown of organic matter into available forms for your plants. Certain fungi, bacteria, or insects that benefit a particular plant will naturally thrive in the same pH that is ideal for that plant. Encouraging the proper pH for your plants in turn helps to foster a healthier population of these important helpers in the soil. In the same way that our own bodies are influenced by the health of our gut bacteria, plants rely on microbial activity in the soil. Without it, they can struggle to carry out essential functions for proper growth and overall health.

Soil Chemistry

Similar to nutrient availability, pH can affect the chemistry of the soil and determine whether or not the available nutrients will be absorbed by roots. It also influences the composition of the soil, helping certain minerals to break down into smaller molecules, ultimately affecting the charge of soil particles and the ability for the soil to hold on to essential elements that could otherwise be removed from the soil. A good example of this would be a soil’s ability to retain certain nutrients by preventing them from getting washed out of the soil by irrigation or rainfall. Acidic soils tend to be better at retaining more of these charged nutrients. It's no coincidence then that most plants prefer acidic or slightly acidic soils, as the lower pH makes those soils richer in nutrients and more “user friendly” for plants.

 ~

Soil pH plays a significant role in the overall health of trees, shrubs, and other plants in our landscape. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way in helping to understand the unique issues you may have in your central Ohio landscape. Below is a list of a few things you can consider in determining what’s best for your yard.

• Have a soil sample from your yard submitted for analysis to help determine if there is a pH issue or nutrient deficiency.

• If you know that you have higher pH levels, consider planting trees and shrubs that are more tolerant of alkaline soils.

• Try incorporating more organic matter into your soil by allowing leaves to decompose in landscape beds over the winter, and consider enlarging groundcover or mulch beds around trees (less lawn)

• Have root zone invigoration work done for trees that are struggling with nutrient deficiencies and/or soil compaction.

• Apply pH lowering products to landscape beds with particularly sensitive trees or shrubs (note that this is something that generally needs done annually, as permanently lowering the pH of soil with additives is next to impossible).  

As always, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree quote by giving us a call at (614) 895-7000 or by visiting RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote

Additional Tree Preservation Articles!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Remote Assignment: The Smokies

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
April 17, 2024

If you live in or around Great Smoky Mountains National Park or vacationed there recently over the last few months, there’s a chance that you may have seen one of our large grapple trucks or our fellow arborists doing tree work. If you did a double take because you were surprised to see us there, don't be alarmed; that was indeed us and no we didn’t move our office from Westerville, Ohio to Gatlinburg, Tennessee. We were trusted by The National Park Service to perform extensive tree work services around the park and we were honored to care for the trees in such a beautiful and breathtaking area.

This tree work project spanned across primarily eastern Tennessee and portions of North Carolina working on a variety of different tree work services. It lasted for approximately 4 months spanning from approximately December 2023 to March 2024 with our crews working 10 to 11 hours 5 to 6 days per week. This heavier work schedule was to take advantage of the little sunlight during this time period, to account for lighter days of tree work during unideal weather, to be able to go home and visit family during the holidays, and to finish a couple of weeks ahead of schedule!

The primary service of our tree work project at Great Smoky Mountains National Park was hazardous tree removal. Trees were deemed to be hazardous if they presented any significant signs of decay or risk of failure near populated areas such as roads, parking lots, and campgrounds. A good litmus test was that if a tree could fall on a person or vehicle, we pruned or removed it. If there was a potentially hazardous tree deep into the woods with little to no foot traffic or an already uprooted tree with no potential energy, they were left untouched as they do not pose a risk and can be beneficial to its local ecosystem. Next, we performed prism clearing where we pruned in a pentagonal shape along roadways to provide additional clearance for taller vehicles and large trucks and to clear additional line of sight around blind curves and corners. Lastly, we visited over two dozen different vistas across the park and removed any small brush and any pioneer or invasive species that would inhibit the view for visitors while avoiding any specimen trees. We applied herbicide onto the very small stumps to minimize the chance of resprouting.

Since this project was a little ways away from our office in Westerville, Ohio our arborists had to bring a lot of equipment to make sure we could get the job done! Two grapples truck were used so that we could load one grapple truck with excess woody material while the second one was hauling it away to a mulching site. A bucket truck was used to help prune tall limbs. For cleanup, we utilized an articulated loader to move around larger pieces of brush and backpack blowers and a stand-on blower to blow small debris like leaves and sawdust away from the road. When it came to vista clearing, climbing gear was used to help scale up and down the vistas along, a trimmer to clear small brush, a backpack pump sprayer to apply herbicide, and of course, chainsaws to get to cuttin’! 

This project was led by our offsite project manager Tyler and crew leader Storm with a rotating crew of 6 other arborists. I chatted with them to get their insight on this project and the general consensus was strongly positive! All of them had a great time and would go back to work at Great Smoky Mountains National Park again! They said it was a fun chance to travel, visit new places around Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge, and the park itself, and build stronger relationships amongst each other. It was a refreshing change of pace from the traditional, residential tree work in central Ohio! We are honored to be given the trust to work at Great Smoky Mountains National Park and would like to thank The National Park Service for this opportunity and for helping to keep everyone safe by providing traffic operators and temporarily closing down work zones to the public when needed to minimize any risks and hazards. Below are various videos produced from this tree work project including a formal interview, a day-in-the-life, and montage of cool tree work clips!

Our fellow arborists Pedro, Storm, Brian, TJ, Tyler, Scott, and Juve! (left to right)

Videos from Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Right Tree, Right Place!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
May 8, 2025

Much of the tree work Russell Tree Experts performs is a direct result of trees and shrubs being planted in inappropriate locations.

When we prune trees to clear a house, roof, or utilities, it's often because a large tree was planted too close, or a smaller tree should have been used. When we shear shrubs to stay below windows or to not encroach on walkways, a smaller, narrower shrub would not have needed maintenance. When we repeat micronutrient fertilizations or fungicides, it's usually to support a tree that doesn't belong in its environment. In short, we make wrong trees fit in wrong spaces.

Newly planted Jane magnolia tree!

The unfortunate fact is most trees and shrubs need a specific set of conditions to thrive - they can't just go anywhere. While figuratively forcing square trees in round holes is good for our business, the savvy gardener will not pick out a tree they 'like' and plant it in a spot where they think it 'will look nice'. Instead, they will study the conditions of their site, then choose the tree that best fits those conditions.

So how can you, the savvy gardener, 'study' your planting site? It's more than looking out the window once. Measuring is a good idea, but still not enough. Instead, examine your area from multiple vantage points, during multiple weather conditions, and multiple times of day.

Does rainwater pool anywhere? Where does the sun hit, and for how long?  Which direction does the wind come from? Where would privacy be preferred? These, and many more questions should be incorporated into the plan.

While this seems cumbersome, the process can be broken down into five important factors: size, water, soil, exposure, and goals.

1) Size

Yes, plants can be pruned to keep them smaller, but most don't want to be! Severe pruning and shearing can cause stress, which in turn, makes plants less capable of defending themselves against diseases and insects; especially near a house or patio. Research plant sizes and don't get greedy - if a plant gets too big for your space, it's out of contention.

2) Water

As the global climate continues to change, Ohio is experiencing warmer, wetter winters and springs. Few plants can tolerate both wet and dry conditions. So if your area is wet most of the year, only water-loving plants should remain in the candidate-pool. Forcing dry-footed plants to wet soils will likely leach away vital nutrients and cause fungal infections. Conversely, heavy drinkers in dry soils will likely need continuous watering, which is time-consuming, expensive, and environmentally careless.

Newly planted prairifire crabapple tree!

3) Soil

Soils vary greatly by location, but in general, central Ohio soils have a heavy clay texture with poor drainage, and a neutral pH (neither acidic, nor alkaline). Undisturbed soils tend be more loamy and acidic. New builds and urban areas tend to be more compacted and alkaline. Plants in soils not matching their needs can suffer from fungal infections, nutrient deficiencies, and instability due to poor root growth.

4) Exposure

While sun and wind are obvious factors, deer-resistance, salt tolerance, limited root space, planned or recent construction, and known insect pests or pathogens are other common exposures in our region.      

5) Goals

I will discuss this more thoroughly in a future article because this is the most fun part - this is where all of your research and observation pay off and your plant starts to work for you! Privacy, traffic noise reduction, food production, bird watching, and a created, desired aesthetic are all examples of good planting goals. Luckily, there is a plant for every size and for every site, so be diligent and find exactly what you need. Scott Zanon's excellent guide Landscaping With Trees in the Midwest lists trees for a variety of situations, including photos, plant sizes, and recommended cultivars.

~

An example of a tag on a tree at a nursery with planting site preferences.

Pairing the correct plant to the correct location may take time and research, but it is the best path to a long-lasting, low-maintenance garden. When planting your next tree, thoroughly observe your site before heading to the nursery, then limit your search to the trees that match those conditions. It is common for most trees and shrubs in nurseries to have a tag with brief planting site preferences on them. This can be very helpful to help match that tree or shrub to your planting site! Just don't get too carried away - we still have a business to run over here! ;) For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

Please note: This article was originally published on 4/10/2024 and was revised on 5/8/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

videos on tree planting and watering!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitch joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Fungicides in Full Effect!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
March 20, 2025

Plant diseases love spring! As temperatures warm and tender new growth emerges, conditions are ideal for fungal pathogens to settle in and take up residence in our favorite trees. It is now when many plants are most susceptible AND treatable for fungal diseases, such as Dothistroma needle cast of Austrian pine, apple scab of flowering crabapple, Rhizosphaera needle cast of blue spruce, rust diseases on hawthorn and pear, and many others. So, rest easy as you see our tree wellness crews all over town arresting pathogenic perpetrators. 

For this article, I want to focus on apple scab because it may be the most aesthetically devastating disease of ornamental trees and it is one of the most common diseases we see daily out in the field. 

What is the disease and what does it do?

Apple scab is caused by the pathogen Venturia inaequalis.  It is a common disease targeting the rose family of plants which includes crabapple, apple, pear, hawthorn, mountain ash, cotoneaster and pyracantha.

Apple scab produces lesions on leaves, flowers, fruit and on young succulent shoots.  When infected areas are numerous, leaves can become curled and distorted and severe infections can lead to complete defoliation of trees and shrubs.

Several years of early leaf loss generally results in poor growth, reduced bloom and increased susceptibility to winter injury and insect predation.

images courtesy of OSU BYGL

How does the disease work?

Apple scab overwinters in fallen diseased leaves and in the soil. Disease development is favored by wet weather and cool temperatures that generally occur in central Ohio in the spring and early summer. Fungal spores are moved from the ground and carried to trees by raindrop splash and wind where they make their way to leaves, flowers, and fruit.  

During wet periods, newly emerging crabapple leaves are extremely susceptible to infection. The longer the leaves remain wet, the more significant the infection can be. 10-20 days after initial infection, new spores are released which infect new leaves. Repeated infections can continue through the summer until environmental conditions become too hot and dry for the pathogen.

What can be done to protect my crabapples?

For most crabapple trees, fungicides must be applied preventatively to successfully manage apple scab. Fungicide sprays should begin when the first green leaves are emerging with additional sprays being applied in roughly two-week intervals.  The number of fungicide applications needed can vary with weather conditions but generally, we recommend three separate applications.

Other cultural practices that can increase the effectiveness of fungicide applications when managing apple scab are:

1. Raking up and destroying infected fallen leaves to reduce locations where the apple scab pathogen can overwinter

2. Space crabapple trees generously to increase air circulation around trees

3. Prune out crossing limbs, vigorous upright sprouts, and suckers to increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the canopy (this can help foliage dry faster after rain or dew)

4. Avoid overhead irrigation, if plants need watering, apply water directly to the root zone. (Check out this article on best tree watering practices)

Additionally, much breeding and selection work has been performed within the nursery industry to introduce scab-resistant crabapples into the landscape. A short list of some of the most scab-resistant cultivars include:

1. ‘Coralburst’,

2. ‘Donald Wyman’

3. ‘Prairifire’

4. ‘Purple Prince’

5. ‘Red Jewel’

6. ‘Royal Raindrops’

7. ‘Sugar Tyme.’  

Also, selecting a tree that is not a member of the Rose family would be a guaranteed way to avoid apple scab.

Other common fungal diseases of trees that can be managed using fungicides include Oak Wilt, Dutch Elm Disease, Powdery Mildew, Black Knot, Anthracnose, and Verticillium wilt.  

Remember, application timing is important and most fungal diseases of trees and shrubs are treated preventively. Treatments are far less likely to be effective when applied after the disease(s) has shown up. Tree disease diagnosis and treatment recommendations should be made by a professional arborist. Definitive disease identification may even require sending samples to a plant pathology lab. Russell Tree Experts will provide this service if needed or recommended.

If you have questions about fungal diseases of trees on your property, request a free quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at (614) 895-7000 or RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

Please note: This article was originally published on 3/25/24 and was revised and republished on 3/20/25.

ADDITIONAL TREE PRESERVATION ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and is well versed in plant pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

How and When to Stake a Tree

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
June 5, 2025

“Spare the rod, spoil the child” — This is how I like to explain the staking of trees when someone asks about it. Sometimes the quote works, and other times they look at me funny. While it doesn’t do much to explain how to stake a tree, it’s actually a great way to think about why you may or may not want to stake the tree in the first place. Stick with me and I’ll explain.

For starters, I’m not condoning corporal punishment. Maybe you’re familiar with this somewhat outdated expression. To put it in different words, it could mean “Without discipline, a child doesn’t receive the guidance to grow up strong and self-sufficient.” That sounds better, doesn’t it?! Don’t make the mistake of equating the “rod” to the stake, it’s actually the opposite. The rod in this case represents “discipline” or "hard love.” In other words, not staking the tree if you don’t have to. If that doesn’t make sense yet, it will in a couple of paragraphs.

There are a few situations where staking a tree is beneficial or even crucial to its success. But for the majority of newly planted trees, it’s often not necessary. Let’s start with reasons to stake. A tutorial video is available at the end for you to watch and/or follow along to!

When Staking a Tree is a Good Idea

1. An existing or newly planted tree that is “loose” at its base due to wind or improper handling when planted. Trees with trunks that can move around in the soil, even a little bit, are at a greater risk of further damage, lean, or complete failure (uprooting/falling over). Temporary and sometimes long-term support may be necessary to stabilize the tree for its own health and also safety.

2. Newly-planted LARGE trees. These trees often have a much larger canopy-to-rootball ratio, and as a result, are at greater risk of shifting or blowing over from high winds after being planted. They also tend to take longer to re-establish a strong, supportive root system.

3. An existing tree that is exhibiting a lean due to being located in an area with frequent high winds, or a newly planted tree in this same area.

4. Same as number 3 but substitute high wind with frequently wet soil.

5. A newly planted tree being placed on a steep grade or significantly sloped terrain. 
   
   Note: The above list does NOT say to “stake all newly planted trees, period.” Let’s revisit the expression at the top of the page to understand why. 
   
   

Why Staking a Tree is Often Not Necessary

Trees respond to their environments in some pretty fascinating ways. One of those is by changing the amount and quality of tissue that is grown in response to physical stressors (wind, gravity, lean, proverbial rods, etc.) We can call this geotropism (change in response to gravity) or thigmomorphogenesis (change in response to any mechanical or environmental stimulus). Jeopardy, here we come! When we plant a new balled and burlapped tree, many of (most of) the tree’s original root system was lost when it was dug out of the ground. In the case of containerized trees that have all of their root system still intact, that root system is concentrated into a very small space (within the container) and isn’t spreading out into the surrounding soil, at least not at first. In either case, research has shown that trees will often develop a stronger root system, in the long run and under normal conditions initially, when left unstaked and made to withstand these forces. The jostling and moving about that occurs with a newly planted tree in light to moderate winds, or the forces of gravity placed on a tree that has to overcome a slightly sloped terrain, will actually stimulate growth of the root system, much the same way our muscles will grow in response to first being stressed in a workout and technically damaged, but then recovering bigger and stronger than before. To further build on that analogy, that same response can be impacted by other factors, just like in people, like overloading (damaging high winds for a tree/a person trying to lift too much in the gym) or lack of proper nutrition (which impedes proper healing and growth, whether you’re a tree or a person). Under normal conditions, a tree will strengthen its root system and eventually be able to withstand greater forces exerted on its ever-growing canopy.

We’ve discussed when a tree should be staked, and when it shouldn’t. Now let’s talk about how to properly stake a tree when it’s deemed necessary. For the purpose of this article, I’m going to refer to two different types of support as “staking”. This includes actual staking, but also guying. When staking a tree, the materials used and where/how they are installed are very important.

The Stake

For smaller applications, wooden stakes or metal posts may be driven into the ground around the tree, just outside of the root ball (1-2’ form the trunk) or up to a few feet away if conditions require it (space restrictions can sometimes dictate stake placement). Stakes can commonly be 5-6’ in length and driven 1-2’ into the soil, depending on the structure of the soil and how easily it may loosen over time. They can be driven into the ground upright or at a slight angle away from the tree to compensate for the slight pulling forces, towards the tree, that they’ll be subjected to. Use a pole/stake pounder or a sledge hammer to drive the stakes into the ground. It might help to employ a second person for this - best to let them hold the stake. Like trying to swat a fly on someone’s head, it is always better to be the one swinging and not the one being swung at! The number of stakes or posts around a tree can vary, depending on the environment and reasons for staking. A tree subjected to frequent winds always coming from the same direction may simply need one stake upwind from the tree to prevent it from leaning or blowing over in the direction of the wind. A tree in the center of an open backyard, subject to wind from all directions, would do better with 3 stakes, placed in a triangle pattern, to support in all directions.

For larger applications, guying a tree with metal ground anchors may be a better option. A guy wire typically runs from a strong anchor point on the tree down to an anchor inserted in the ground. These are augur-type anchors that turn into the ground and provide an attachment point for wire running from the anchor to the tree. Turnbuckles can be used in these situations to achieve the proper tension on the wires if they’re supporting a tree of significant height and/or spread. This application is rarely something to be undertaken by a homeowner, and is usually performed by a landscape company as part of the initial installation of the trees. However, a homeowner may choose to implement this setup if adding support to an existing established tree that is starting to exhibit a lean due to winds, a damaged root system, or saturated ground (Caution: If you have any doubt as to the stability of a substantially sized tree that appears unstable, do not attempt to remedy it yourself. Call a professional tree care company and have the tree assessed immediately). 

The Wire or Strap

There are a number of materials that can be used to connect the tree to the stakes, but no matter what it is, one rule should always be followed - it shouldn’t damage, cut into, or compromise the tree’s branches or bark in any way. Wire remains a cheap and effective material to use, but it’s crucial that it not be directly wrapped around the tree. This will cut into the bark and possibly girdle the stem where it makes contact. Instead, short sections of old garden hose can be cut and used, with the wire running through them, to provide a soft and wide surface to make contact with the trunk of the tree. Straps or rope, if used instead, should be wide enough that they do not cut into the bark. Thin-barked trees such as Red Maples are extremely easy to damage if improperly staked. There are of course many store-bought, application-specific options to choose from that can work wonderfully and provide the right support. Whatever material you are using, the tension between stake and tree does NOT need to be extreme, and should instead be appropriate for the environment. Just enough to prevent excessive movement is usually appropriate. Strong winds or a tree with a larger canopy will call for more tension. Imagine Hippocrates planting this tree and, “First, do no harm.”

Illustration of a recently planted tree with three stakes secured with wire [click to enlarge]

A few more points

There are a few more points worthy of mention. If you determined that a tree needed staking, and after having successfully staked said tree, consider the following: 

• Check the tree regularly. Every couple of weeks, check to see if the stakes have shifted or loosened in the ground. Check the portion of the support wire or straps that wrap around the tree for any signs of rubbing or wear that could potentially compromise the bark if left as is. Adjustments in tension or placement of support may be necessary.

• Remove the stakes after a year. Generally, one full year of root growth and settling of the soil is sufficient to anchor the tree in place and provide adequate support, under normal conditions. Leaving stakes for longer than this can adversely affect the tree’s ability to adapt to its environment.

• Fertilize the tree for the first several growing seasons. A growing tree will use all the nutrition you can throw at it (responsibly, left-over Timbits don’t count!). Fertilizing a new tree encourages root and shoot development by providing essential nutrients often lacking in our urban landscape soils. A properly planted, staked as-needed, and well-fed tree is on its way to providing many years of benefit to the landscape.

HOW-TO GUIDE

Click below to download the step-by-step guide!

HOW-TO GUIDE

A Note about Evergreens…

There’s one more application of staking that you’re perhaps wondering about, and curious why I have mentioned it or discussed how to do it - the staking of evergreens with a diagonal wooden stake strapped against the trunk. I’m mentioning it, but not recommending it. This is a very common way for evergreens to be staked, typically when installed by a landscape company, and a very common way to cause long term problems if forgotten about. In the 25 years I’ve been working in the green industries, I’ve seen countless examples of these stakes having been left in place, forgotten about as the tree put on new growth and concealed the stake and support materials. Out of sight, out of mind. This often leads to a girdling of the main stem (trunk) at the location where the strap or wire was placed, years after planting, and only discovered when the top half of the tree suddenly and “mysteriously” starts to die. If you absolutely must stake a tree in this manner, use natural twine, not any synthetic material to attach the wooden stake to the tree. This will break down after 1-2 years and is much less likely to girdle the main stem of the tree if forgotten about.

Remember, the staking of a tree is unnecessary more often than not. When you or a professional deem it a good idea, proper stake installation with appropriate materials will ensure that the stake benefits the tree and causes no long term harm. Please note that Russell Tree Experts does not offer tree planting or tree staking services, but we are always happy to provide professional advice for all things tree and shrub related! For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!

TUTORIAL VIDEO

Please note: This article was originally published on 3/20/2024 and was revised on 6/5/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Spring: A Great Time to Fertilize

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
March 13, 2025​

Spring is a great time to fertilize trees. As the soil begins to warm up, feeder roots become active and begin to look for nutrients in the soil. A general Spring fertilization provides trees with a boost of macronutrients (typically nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) which are essential to trees as they enter the challenges of a new growing season and require energy to develop new leaves, branches, and roots. Spring fertilization can also benefit trees recovering from the winter stresses of cold temperatures, desiccating winds, and potential exposure to de-icing products around tree roots. 

At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.

STEP 1: Fertilization

In the spring or fall the soil around the tree will be fertilized with a custom selection of the following: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), and liquid compost - all essential nutrients for healthy soil and root systems. The goal is to provide the tree with the best soil chemistry possible.

STEP 2: Metabolic Processes

The tree acquires carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen from the atmosphere and from water. Using light energy from the sun (photosynthesis), these are combined to produce glucose. Other essential nutrients are gathered from the soil. The tree uses glucose and essential nutrients for growth, reproduction, and pest/disease resistance.

STEP 3: Evapotranspiration

Through this process the tree is able to move nutrients from the soil, up the trunk, and into the outer canopy, carrying them dissolved in water to be used as needed. This process continues throughout the growing season.

STEP 4: Reduced Nutrient Levels

In urban soils macro and micronutrients can be depleted for several reasons, limiting metabolic processes. Fertilization helps maintain nutrient availability to trees by supplying needed elements that have been used by the tree or leached out of the soil. [BACK TO STEP 1]

Trees that are showing dieback in the canopy, poor leaf color, stunted growth, or low vigor are all great candidates for fertilization. When putting together a fertilization plan, it is important to also consider tree type and location. Most trees benefit from a general fertilization, but many tree species may require more specific nutrients. Some of these nutrients can be lacking in urban and highly developed environments. For example, many woodland species that grow naturally in low-lying areas (ex: river birch, pin oak, and red maple) often require the addition of manganese to a fertilization program for long-term health and vigor when planted in a residential neighborhood. The specific nutrient for which a tree is deficient may not always be obvious, especially in a young or newly planted tree, but can be determined easily through soil and tissue testing. Russell Tree Experts can provide these testing services as needed.

Trees in native areas are less likely to require fertilization. This is due to the less disturbed nature of the soil and to the natural breakdown of leaves, sticks, and other organic matter continually providing nutrients to the soil or a “natural fertilization.” Trees in urban or highly developed areas are less likely to experience “natural fertilization” due to interference from hardscapes and through regular landscape maintenance practices including raking out yards and landscape beds. 

Soil quality is the key to good tree health and longevity and spring fertilization is a great way to start the soil improvement process. There are various considerations that are made when selecting a fertilizer for your trees including the type of tree and the location of the tree in your landscape. Consulting with one of our certified arborists can help determine the specific nutritional needs of your trees and get the process started! For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!

Please note: This article was originally published on 3/5/2024 and was republished on 3/13/2025.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Tree Bracing 101

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 27, 2024

Trees adorn our landscapes, offering shade, beauty, and a connection to nature. However, ensuring their structural integrity and stability is vital for their longevity. Common tree preservation services that you may be familiar with are tree pruning and mulching. Other uncommon services could be cabling or trunk injections depending on the specific tree. However, throughout my 4+ years of working at Russell Tree Experts, one service that I have not heard of up until this year is tree bracing! Let's delve into the world of tree bracing to understand the process and benefits!

What is Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing? I couldn’t initially picture what this meant when first hearing it. Let’s first break down tree bracing into two words. Tree. Bracing. Tree: A woody, perennial plant typically having a single stem. I know what that is. Brace: To make (something) stronger or firmer, or to prepare for something difficult or unpleasant. So would it be a solid guess that tree bracing is the process of making a tree stronger? Yes! That’s exactly what it is!

Tree bracing is a tree preservation service to reduce the risk of two or more stems from splitting apart or to fasten a split or cracked union together, thus improving the overall structure of your tree. This is achieved through the installation of brace rods to prevent select tree unions from spreading or twisting apart or to prevent a split or cracked union from worsening.

This sounds great! Let’s start bracing every single tree to improve their overall structure! Well, not so fast. Only certain trees will stand to benefit from tree bracing. Just like fertilizing trees with manganese or iron to treat a manganese or iron deficiency, this service is only recommended for trees that need it, otherwise there would be either no noticeable effect or even a decrease in structural rigidity. Just like with pruning, which involves removing (or “wounding”) the tree’s crown of undesired parts, bracing is a semi-invasive procedure that involves installing large threaded steel rods into the trunk of the tree, so we only want to install brace rods when the net result is positive and beneficial. 

What Trees Should Be Braced?

So what trees should receive tree bracing? Well, as mentioned earlier, trees with a split or cracked union could benefit from brace rod installation. A split or cracked union should be easy to spot, especially in the winter in the case for deciduous trees as there is little to no foliage. A limb can split or crack due to various reasons like included bark (bark that is partially or fully embedded into the tree’s wood), improper pruning, disease, and storm damage from adverse weather like lightning, heavy winds, rainstorms, and thick layers of ice just to name a few. A split or cracked union can also occur from structural defects like large, long, horizontally growing limbs and codominant stems. If the limb is large and long and growing more horizontal rather than vertical, there could be a lot of weight-related stress near the union that could cause it to split if the limb is not supported properly or if end-weight reduction pruning does not occur. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems originating from the same point of the tree and growing in the same, general direction. They can be characterized as having a tight “V” shape near the union or by both of the limbs competing to be the central leader of the whole structure. This is not ideal for a tree’s structure as they are prone to splitting during adverse weather conditions. In scenarios where removal of the branch or tree is not viable or preferred, tree bracing serves as a beneficial solution or alternative.

What Are the Benefits to Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing can be beneficial for a tree as they can minimize movement, ensuring the splits or cracks do not occur or worsen, especially during strong weather. A tree with poor structure or a split or cracked union may not want to be removed by the owner as it is a specimen tree (a tree chosen as a point of focus in a landscape) that provides aesthetics, shade, real estate value, or more. For some trees, it may also be unnecessary to remove them simply because of one or two weak, treatable unions that could even be healed over time. Tree bracing aims to improve the tree’s structure at a choice union and to give its owner more peace of mind that a union or limb has a decreased chance of failing, which would potentially end the tree’s life, or to keep it from falling onto something like a house, car, driveway, or anything else near the tree.

The Tree Bracing Process

Here at Russell Tree Experts, we use the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices to help guide us! With that said, before tree bracing begins, we typically prune the tree's crown to reduce weight and then install one or more cables in the crown to support the suspect union(s) from above. Once these initial steps are complete, we install a specified size and quantity of brace rods in your tree in accordance with the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices. The size and quantity is determined by factors such as the tree’s diameter below the union, number of limbs or unions being cared for, and whether or not there is or is not a split or crack present. To install the brace rods, holes are drilled straight through the tree near the union. The threaded brace rods are then fully inserted and will have excess rod on both ends. The brace rods are then secured with one or more washers, a lock washer, and a nut on both ends. The connections are then tightened as firmly as possible. Afterwards, the excess length of threaded rod is cut off close to the nuts and subsequently peened off to prevent any movement of the nuts. And voila! The end result is a tree with increased structural integrity and a reduced chance of failing! 

I talked with my coworker Jacob, our Training & Development Manager and an ISA certified arborist, read through the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices, and looked at other resources online to see if it was an acceptable practice to drill holes through a tree to install brace rods. After considering a variety of sources, the general consensus is that the overall impact is minor because almost all of the drilled wounds are filled with threaded steel rod (except a 1/32'' gap), allowing the tree to compartmentalize the wounds rapidly, and that tree bracing should be done on trees that have a bigger concern to worry about, such as two codominant stems or a split union.

Professional assessment is imperative to determine the necessity of bracing for a tree. Signs such as co-dominant stems or split or cracked unions should prompt owners to get an opinion from an ISA certified arborist. After researching, observing, recording, and photographing various trees being braced, I felt empowered and motivated to share my newfound knowledge on this not-so-commonly heard of tree preservation service! The main purpose of this Arbor Ed article is to educate and share my findings, but Russell Tree Experts does provide tree bracing services should you want or need it! Our regional managers are all ISA certified arborists and can provide a free inspection and quote! Below are some videos about tree bracing! 

Learn More About Tree Bracing!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Root for your Roots!

A tree is only as healthy as its roots. Luckily, Russell Tree Experts offers a variety of root-health services! The powerhouse of our root-health services is the air spade. This tool, when attached to a powerful air compressor, is capable of removing soil without damaging tree roots. (Full disclosure and fun fact: air spading is my very favorite type of tree care to perform!)

Root Collar Excavation

“Say NO to Girdling Roots!”

The most common root-health service is root collar excavation. In this procedure, our technician begins at the tree's trunk and removes soil approximately a foot outwards to reveal the root system closest to the tree. From here, roots that are squeezing the trunk or each other can be selectively removed, thus improving the passage of water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves. Once the soil near the trunk is removed, additional improvements can be made such as removing twine, burlap, or other nursery products left during planting, or correcting the soil depth of trees planted too deep. In my experience, this is the single most beneficial process to long-term tree health. Maples and sweetgums are especially prone to girdling roots. Signs of trunk girdling in other trees include lack of flare at the base (which indicates the tree is planted too deep), flat spots in the otherwise round trunk, early fall color and leaf drop, and excessive stress during summer drought. Root collar excavations should be performed in winter when trees are dormant, but when the ground is not frozen. 

In limited quantities, roots can also be exposed and pruned to prevent damage to patios, driveways, or underground utilities. This method of root removal is far less damaging to tree health than traditional shovel/backhoe techniques. An ISA Certified Arborist® should always be consulted before this type of work is performed because excessive root removal can cause instability and rapid tree death. Air spade trenching and root removal can be performed year-round except in the case of some trees that may be highly stressed or experiencing severe drought conditions.

Even when a tree is planted at the proper depth, has plenty of soil space, and with no girdling, the trunk can still benefit from root-health services. We offer three related, but progressively more intensive options to treat the entire root zone and not just the area around the trunk.

Vertical Mulching

Vertical Mulching

The first is vertical mulching, in which the technician removes soil in small bursts radiating outward from the trunk and extending the entire drip-line of the tree. The small but 8-12 inch deep cavities are then replaced with a porous and nutrient-rich compost blend. The result is a looser, more aerated soil structure for new roots and beneficial microorganisms to expand into. This service can be provided almost year-round (frozen ground/drought excluded) and is my go-to for mature trees on undisturbed sites that are beginning to lack vigor.

Radial Trenching

Radial Trenching

One step up, radial trenching is a similar procedure, but instead of small bursts, the soil is removed in continuous lines radiating outward the length of the canopy. I prefer this technique for new builds and areas with recent compaction, urban sites, and situations where old trees are beginning to decline. This is another almost year-round service.

Root zone Invigoration

The most extensive of entire root zone services we offer is root zone invigoration. In this technique, we use the air spade to remove all the grass, soil, or competing plants sitting on top of the tree's root system. We then correct any girdling and planting depth problems. Finally, we replace the entire space with our compost blend. This is a big, messy, expensive procedure but often the best solution when a valued small to medium-sized tree is being damaged by mowers, vandalism, or when there is an especially dense or aggressive plant growing above the root zone. I prefer this service to occur during winter dormancy, but in extreme cases, it can be performed any time roots are too restricted to function properly.

It’s easy to forget about your trees while they're sitting leafless in winter - but this can be the most beneficial time to give them attention. Caring for your tree's roots is often more beneficial than pruning, spraying fungicides, or almost any other plant health care service.

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Root for YOUR Tree and Learn More BELOW!

Tree Work in the Winter?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2025

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/25 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]

“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.

Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.

Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.

Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.

Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.

With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.

One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!

As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

10 Boxwood Alternatives

Dear Reader,

My introduction into the horticultural world was working at a small retail nursery in the early 2000s. Back then, when a customer would ask for an easy to grow, low maintenance, no brainer plant, boxwood is what we would often recommend. Fast forward twenty years and today boxwood have to contend with boxwood leaf miner, boxwood psyllid, spider mites, volutella stem canker, winterburn, boxwood blight and most recently, a new disease known as boxwood dieback. Historically, Boxwood have been appreciated in the landscape because they are evergreen, deer proof, compact, easy to manipulate and respond well to pruning/shearing. But they are no longer the maintenance free, easy to grow plants they once were. 2023 was a particularly bad year for boxwood in central Ohio and every arborist, landscaper and plant person I know was overwhelmed with calls from desperate clients willing to try anything to restore their boxwood to how they once looked. Many of the boxwood installations I observed this year are beyond preservation. Others will likely recover over the next two to three growing seasons but may look a little rough along the way. Much of the damage that occurred to boxwood this year is a result of the cold weather event we had just before the holiday season of 2022, where temperatures changed from 40 degrees Fahrenheit into the negatives in less than 12 hours. There is no topical spray or any professional service that can be offered to combat this sort of environmental event. And many of the boxwood that were able to survive the initial cold temperatures succumbed later to disease spreading pathogens seeking a stressed and vulnerable host. Even under normal weather conditions, most boxwood require regular applications of insecticides and dormant oils to protect them from insect pests that have taken advantage of their abundance. The best management strategy for the prevention of disease and insect pests on our plants is to use plants that do not get those diseases and insect pests. So as you are wrapping up your Fall landscape plantings or making plans for next Spring, consider something new for your hedges, accent plants and foundation plantings. Here are 10 suggestions for plants to consider with similar characteristics to boxwood.

1. Blue Holly

Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) is a hybrid between the cold hardy Asian prostrate holly (Ilex rugosa) and English holly (Ilex aquifolium). It is one of my personal favorite evergreen shrubs and has lustrous dark green/blue leaves and dark red berries on female plants that ultimately feed the robins and mockingbirds around late winter to early spring. Individual plants form a shrubby upright to pyramidal habit and can grow 8 to 12 feet in height by 6 to 8 feet in width. Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can easily be pruned into hedges and can be kept at any height or width with minimal, annual pruning. They are cold hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. Several cultivated varieties of this hybrid exist with my personal favorites being Blue Princess and Blue Prince.

NOTE:  Holly plants require a male pollinator to achieve fruit. Make sure to include at least one male plant (like Blue Prince), and possibly more depending on the size of your Holly plantings to improve fruiting.

Negatives: Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can have significant leaf burn when temperatures drop below -10 degrees Fahrenheit (although established plants recover quickly in the Spring). They are susceptible to phytophthora (root rot) in poorly drained sites and deer browsing during the winter when snow persists for days at a time.

2. Privet

Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is a densely branched shrub with dark green to yellowish green leaves that can easily be manipulated into rounded plants and hedges. Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is fast growing and adaptable to a wide range of soils and growing conditions; I’ve observed many well kept privet hedges that would give boxwood a run for its money during the spring or summer. The foliage persists late into the fall often turning purple but is not evergreen. There are no serious disease or insect problems and oftentimes plants seem to thrive with neglect. Several different species and many different cultivars exist for a range of size, texture and leaf color.

Negatives: Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is not native to central Ohio and can easily spread by seed into native areas and out compete native species. They are also not evergreen.

3. Wintercreeper euonymus

Until recently I have always considered this species of euonymus to be best used as a ground cover or climber on a tree or trellis. More and more though, I’m seeing it in the landscape pruned into a very small and cute hedge or sculpted into 1 to 2 feet tall and wide mounds looking very similar to boxwood. Euonymus in general is fast growing and adaptable from full sun, to full shade, and to just about any landscape situation that isn’t a swamp. Leaves are evergreen most winters (leaf drop can occur when temps drop below -20 F) and there are dozens of cultivated varieties for leaf size and color. I’m partial to the green and white variegated cultivar ‘Emerald Gaiety.’

Negatives: Wintercreeper euonymus (Euonymus fortunei) is not native and can easily naturalize and take over unmanaged native areas. They can be susceptible to euonymus scale and difficult to treat successfully once a population is established.

4. Spirea

There are several species and dozens of different cultivars of spirea that mimic the compact and rounded habit of boxwood. They can be grown as separate plants, planted in masses or managed as a hedge. Spirea can grow in most landscape situations and will perform well in any soil that is not excessively wet. Spirea are easy to grow, have little insect or disease problems, respond well to pruning and shearing, and are cold hardy and adaptable to full sun and partial shade. Spirea are deciduous but even without leaves, the stems and twigs are so dense that the structure of the plant still provides texture and interest in the winter landscape.

Negatives: Spirea are not evergreen. They can get powdery mildew but it has little impact on the overall health of the plant. Spirea may also be somewhat overused in the landscape but for good reason - it is almost impossible to kill.

5. Japanese HollY

Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is another compact evergreen shrub with a rounded habit and dark green foliage through the growing season and through the winter. They can grow 3 to 5 feet in height and width, although I have observed larger plants in arboreta. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is cold hardy to - 20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. They respond well to pruning/shearing and can be used in hedges, foundation plantings, or in masses. Several different cultivars are available for different sizes, colors, and superior cold hardiness.

Negatives: Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is slow growing and not tolerant of high pH soils. They are a preferred host to spider mites during extended periods of drought. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is not well known in Ohio and could be difficult to source. I would avoid using the upright cultivar ‘Sky pencil’ unless in a warmer protected spot with exceptionally well drained soil.

6. Globe arborvitae

Globe arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Globosa’ or ‘Little Gem’) is a compact and rounded form of our native eastern arborvitae. Its leaves are bright green in the spring and summer but turn more bronze or yellowish green during the winter months. Globosa arborvitae is a dwarf form and matures to only 5 to 6 feet tall and wide. They are very adaptable to different soil types and respond well to pruning and shearing. Globosa arborvitae can be used as a specimen plant or accent plant as well as in hedges or foundation plantings. Little gem arborvitae has essentially the same habit as globosa arborvitae but are smaller, maturing to a height of about only 3 feet tall. Either cultivar will perform well from full sun to partial shade (but they should have at least a half day of sunlight).

Negatives: Deer will eat arborvitae to bare wood when hungry. They are also a preferred host to bagworm and spider mites.

7. Yew

Yew (Taxus spp.) is a hardy and easy to grow evergreen shrub. I use them primarily for screening in the parts of my garden that receive less sun, but they can be easily manipulated and sculpted into tight hedges, mazes, and formal shapes in the same fashion that we often treat boxwood. Yew are very adaptable and urban tolerant and can withstand almost any amount of pruning. They will grow well in sun and shade and have few disease or pest problems. If they are used as an alternative to boxwood, I recommend the cultivars ‘Runyan’ or ‘Densiformis’.

Negatives: Yew are susceptible to deer browsing

8. Japanese Plum Yew 

Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) is similar to yew, but with longer and glossier needles. I have planted this in more than one rural location and my experience so far is that deer will not touch them. Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) should be considered by anyone that likes yew but has given up because of continual deer damage. There are several different cultivars selected for a range of different sizes and habits but ‘Duke Gardens’ is the cultivar I recommend for central Ohio gardens and for anyone wishing to experiment with using Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) to replace boxwood. This cultivar matures to approximately 2 to 3 feet in height, approximately 3 to 4 feet in width and is cold hardy to - 20 degree fahrenheit.  There are no serious pest or disease problems.

Negatives: Straight species is not cold hardy in true zone 5 winters (winters that reach -20 F). I observed significant winterburn in the plants in my garden from the cold snap we had just before the holiday season of 2022.

9. Inkberry 

This is one of the boxwood alternatives that I think has the most potential. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is native to the east coastal plains of the US and is a compact evergreen shrub with lustrous, dark green leaves during the growing season. Foliage can bronze somewhat during the winter months. Without pruning, inkberry (Ilex glabra) can reach heights of 6 to 8 feet tall with a width of 8 to 10 feet wide. Female plants can produce a small, pea-sized black berry (hence the name inkberry) that is edible to birds. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) performs well from full sun to full shade (foliage density is better with at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight) and is cold hardy to - 20 degrees fahrenheit; although I have observed winterburn in exposed plants during winters with temperatures that have dropped below zero for extended periods of time. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) responds quite well to heavy pruning or shearing and has strong regenerative growth in established plants. They can easily be used as individual specimen plants or in hedges. I recommend using the cultivars ‘Cape Cod’ or ‘Compacta’ if available. These selections maintain a more rounded and compact habit with less pruning.

Negatives: Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is not tolerant of excessively high pH soils and plants can lose lower leaves and become quite leggy if not well managed. I have observed significant deer browsing during periods of extended snow cover in landscapes with a high deer population.

10. Canadian Hemlock

Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is one of my favorite evergreen trees. It is a native and graceful evergreen tree with glossy dark green needles that also responds well to aggressive pruning. When my wife and I moved into our current home in 2008, we planted 36 Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) on 5 foot centers around the perimeter of our front and side yards. We keep these plants sculpted into a tight 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide pyramidal shaped hedge which we prune once a year in the late spring, approximately a month after new growth has pushed out. This could make an excellent replacement for a tall boxwood hedge.

Negatives: Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is susceptible to deer browsing during the winter months with extended periods of snow. They are a preferred host to spruce spider mites when under stress. Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) also have poor tolerance to drought.

These 10 plants are just the beginning of the conversation regarding boxwood alternatives. There are dozens of other cultivated varieties of chamaecyparis, juniper, spruce, pine, fir, leucothoe, etc that could fulfill the same niche in many of our gardens. I believe there is a perfect substitute out there for every plant. The perfect substitute for your needs will depend on your individual situation and landscape.

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Illustrations by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts

Why Are We "Buckeyes?"

Dear Reader,

As I sat in my family room on Friday night making buckeye necklaces for friends and family before The Ohio State University football team faced off against Penn State, I began to wonder why anyone would call themselves the “Buckeyes?”I like to think a team prefers to have a name that intimidates or even scares an opponent, but not us. Many throughout central Ohio consider themselves “Buckeyes” even if they didn’t attend The Ohio State University. However, what does it mean to be a buckeye and why is the identity of Columbus based around this unique nut from a tree? Well, there is actually quite a bit of history surrounding the Ohio buckeye tree (Aesculus glabra) in our beautiful state and the story of how it was adopted by our university may not be well known.  

[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

The Ohio Buckeye has palmately compound leaves, usually comprising of five (occasionally seven) leaflets. The leaves are bright green in the spring and summer, turning to yellow and gold in the fall, creating a stunning display of autumn colors. In the spring, the Ohio Buckeye produces clusters of small, tubular, greenish-yellow flowers. These flowers are a valuable nectar source for pollinators, including bees and butterflies. The most iconic feature of this tree is the nut, the name of which is thought to be derived from its resemblance to the eye of a deer or “Buck-eye.” These nuts are encased in a spiky, leathery husk that splits open in the fall to reveal the glossy, dark brown nut. While they might resemble true chestnuts, it's important to note that buckeye nuts are not edible and can be toxic if ingested.

[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

Early settlers used these nuts to craft buttons and the trees themselves became valuable for their wood and ornamental qualities. It didn't take long for the buckeye tree to become an integral part of American culture. The first recorded use of the term Buckeye was in 1788 to refer to a settler. Colonel Ebenezer Sproat, who happened to be large in both size and character, was aptly named Hetuck (the Indian word for buckeye) by local natives. He proudly carried the Buckeye nickname for the rest of his life and the label gradually spread to his companions and other local settlers. By the 1830s, writers were commonly referring to locals as “Buckeyes.” The Buckeye nickname became even more commonplace during the 1840 presidential campaign when Ohioan William Henry Harrison was running for president. His supporters wore buckeye-shaped wooden tokens as a sign of their allegiance, and the nickname stuck. Some even believed that carrying a buckeye nut could bring good luck similar to a rabbit’s foot or a four-leaf clover.  The buckeye continued to resonate with Ohioans and became the state tree in 1953.

The Buckeye & The Ohio State University

Learn more about the history of Brutus Buckeye
[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

In the early 1950s, The Ohio State University held a contest to select a new mascot. A student named Dick Doan, who was a cartoonist for the university's student newspaper, suggested the buckeye as a potential symbol because of its significance to Ohio. Prior to this, The Ohio State University hadn’t solidified any formal name. In 1950, The Ohio State officially adopted the name "Buckeyes" and became associated with the university's athletic teams and more. It wasn’t until 1965 that two students, Ray Bourhis and Sally Huber, formalized this tree nut as the official mascot that has been an iconic figure for Ohio State ever since. During this period, schools were known to bring live animal mascots to stadiums and the idea of corralling a live buck didn’t seem like the brightest idea. Instead, they delved back into our state’s historical roots and opted for the simple buckeye nut. An unnamed papier-mâché mascot inspired by the buckeye nut entered Ohio Stadium on October 30th, 1965 during a football game against Minnesota. Shortly afterwards, OSU held a contest to pick a name for the mascot which ultimately led to who we know today as Brutus Buckeye, responsible for the daunting task of rallying fans and encouraging our athletics teams!

Buckeye Grove (pictured above) at The Ohio State University, located just south of Ohio Stadium, is filled with various buckeye trees!

Today, the buckeye is a well-known symbol of The Ohio State University and the buckeye leaf logo is recognized across the country, particularly in the realm of college sports. The buckeye tree and the nuts it produces are closely associated with the state of Ohio and have become a source of pride for OSU and its fans. So next time you’re cheering on our Buckeyes, feel free to quiz those around you to see who really knows why our beloved university chose a toxic nut as a lasting symbol.

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

Illustrations by Kenny Greer, ©Russell Tree Experts

ADDITIONAL READS

• Virtual Tour of Chadwick Arboretum by Enrique Arayata, Russell Tree Experts

How to Plant a Balled-and-Burlapped Tree!

Dear Reader,

TJ Nagel and Mike McKee standing in front of a newly planted ginkgo tree.

My friend and colleague Mike McKee (an ISA certified arborist at Russell Tree Experts) and I were discussing recently how rarely we see a properly planted landscape tree. Every day we are out and about talking with folks who have stressed trees that are planted too deep, or that are being girdled by landscape materials or trees that are simply planted in the wrong location. Much of the tree preservation and tree removal work that we perform is a result of trees that were improperly planted. 

Russell Tree Experts does not offer tree planting services but Mike and I decided it would be valuable to write this article and make a how-to video on what we believe is the best way to plant a balled-and-burlapped tree (although much of the video can apply to trees growing in containers as well). The goal of this article and video is to empower everyone to be able to plant a tree correctly and to be able to recognize what a properly planted tree is supposed to look like. 

The following is a checklist of essential steps that should be followed when installing (or having installed by a contractor) a new balled-and-burlapped tree.

 1. Plant the Right Tree

There is a tree out there for every landscape situation. It is important that you choose wisely when you are selecting a tree for your situation. If planting in a low site that regularly experiences flooding or standing water you might consider a bald cypress, willow or sycamore, something that is water loving/tolerant. If planting in an excessively dry area you may consider a ginkgo or some type of elm. If you are planting under overhead utilities, planting a smaller statured tree such as a redbud, will likely help to avoid conflict between the lines and tree in the future. Planting the right tree in the right location is the most important step. You may follow the rest of this checklist flawlessly but if you select the wrong tree, it was all in vain. If you are uncertain of what the right tree is for your situation, it’s worth hiring an arborist for a consultation and I know a few good ones.

 2. Plant at the Right Time

Fall is for planting. Early Spring is pretty good too. Planting a new tree during either of these times while the tree is in or approaching a dormant state will improve survivability by avoiding a lot of the initial stresses trees experience during the growing season like heat and drought.

3. Tree Pruning

If a tree could only be pruned once in its life, pruning at planting is the time to do so. The overall goal of pruning at planting is to improve the structure of the canopy, to remove crossing and broken limbs, or to reduce/remove upright limbs that might be competing to be the central dominant leader. Note: It is equally important not to over prune a newly planted tree, as having the appropriate amount of leaf area in the canopy next season is essential to maintaining good health and vigor. 

 4. Locate the Tree’s Trunk Flare/Buttress Roots

The trunk flare will be found low on the main stem and should be the portion of the tree that gets wider just before ground level. Locating the trunk flare is essential for determining the depth of the hole you are about to dig for the tree.  

Two examples of root flare, which is where the trunk and roots of a tree meet.

5. Begin Digging!

Dig a hole that is 1.5 - 2 times the diameter of your root ball to allow loose soil to be backfilled around the rootball, which will be easy for new roots to penetrate. Do not dig the hole any deeper than the distance between the bottom of the root ball and the trunk flare. It is important that the trunk flare is at or slightly above grade once it has been placed in the planting hole. If the trunk flare is below grade, the tree will be planted too deep and will be more prone to stem girdling roots, reduced vigor, and will become more vulnerable to pests and disease. Important Note: Many balled-and-burlapped trees are already too deep within their own root ball. Do not assume that the top of the root ball is the trunk flare. My experience is that more often than not, I have to remove a few inches of soil from above the trunk flare at the time of planting. This can be seen in the video as well. Linked down below is my fellow coworker Chris Gill’s Arbor Ed article on stem girdling roots.

6. Stabilize the root balL

Stabilize the root ball in the hole. After the tree is standing upright in the hole, verify that it is positioned correctly (centered and upright) and add soil around the bottom six to eight inches of the root ball. Tamp the newly added soil to stabilize the root ball and tree while adjustments to the root ball are made. 

 7. Remove the twine, Top 1/3 of Burlap, and Top 1/3 of Wire Cage

Remove the twine around the trunk, remove the top third of the burlap and remove the top third (approximately) of the wire cage. The purpose of removing these materials is to prevent damage to the trunk and buttress roots as they grow over time. Removing the twine, burlap and wire cage is the subject of much debate amongst landscape contractors, tree producers, and arborists. In an effort to be brief, our recommendation to remove the top third of the wire cage, the exposed burlap (approximately the top third), and the twine is a balance between ensuring root ball stability/new tree survivability and planning for the long term health of the tree over the next hundred years. There may be some instances, like planting new evergreen trees in exposed/windy sites where it may be acceptable to leave the entire wire cage, burlap and twine intact for one full growing season before returning to remove it later.

8. Verify Tree’s PositioninG AND BEGIN BACKFILLING

Verify again that the tree is still positioned correctly. Mix a small amount of compost into the existing soil and begin backfilling the remaining portions of the hole with this mix. Lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets but be careful not to overly compact soil as pore space is needed for water and oxygen.

Adding compost or a soil amendment to the existing soil is one way to attempt to improve soil structure and nutrient availability. Not every newly planted tree requires soil amendment. If you are planting in a native area where the soils have not been disturbed previously, you likely can backfill with just the existing soil that came from the planting site. 

9. Mulch around the tree

Apply a 1-to-2 inch tall mulch ring around the trunk of the tree that extends out to the canopy drip line.

Mulch correctly around the tree. Once the tree has been planted with the trunk flare just above ground level, it is time to add one to two inches of mulch. It is important that mulch is not over applied or mounded around the main stem. It should be applied evenly around the main stem with a small berm on the outside edge that directs water toward the tree. I generally recommend pine bark or hardwood mulch although I’ve started using pine needle mulch around trees and shrubs that like a more acidic soil. Mulch does a great job of retaining moisture around newly planted trees in addition to reducing competition from weeds, regulating soil temperatures, reducing soil compaction and adding nutrients to the soil. Linked below is my fellow coworker Lindsey Rice’s Arbor Ed article on how to mulch around a tree.

10. Water YOUR TREE

Watering a newly planted tree correctly is as important as selecting the right tree. Watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the establishment and success of planting a new tree. The best way to water a tree is slowly and deeply so that water is trickling down into the root ball of the tree and not washing away into the lawn. A newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree should be watered at the time of planting and then once a week until temperatures are consistently below freezing. Watering in this same fashion should resume when the tree breaks dormancy and leafs out the following Spring. It generally takes 2 - 3 growing seasons before a balled-and-burlapped tree is established and can fend for its own water.   Establishment could take longer with larger trees. For more information on watering, see my previous Arbor Ed article and video on how to water a tree linked down below.

11. Protect YOUR TRee!

Ginkgo biloba with deer protection.

Protect your tree from mechanical damage. This step may not be necessary for every newly planted tree. If you live in an urban area without deer and have large generous planting beds free of turf, you can likely skip this step. When planting in rural areas, I often recommend using some sort of deer protection to protect the trunk of trees until they have surpassed eight to ten inches in diameter. I like to use a 4 foot tall wire fencing cut into a 7 - 8 foot length and then wrapped around the tree. In addition to protecting the trunk, the fencing also makes it more difficult for deer to feed on lower limbs. Trunk guards or corrugated drain pipe can also work to protect tree trunks, but they must be removed before the heat and humidity of the summer. I also recommend trunk protection for folks that have trees in areas where turf is tightly managed with large and fast moving mowers and string trimmers.

12. ENJOY!

Your new tree is now planted! Enjoy it! If there are any tags on the tree, you can remove them now if you have not done so already. I hope you enjoyed this article and the video below. Please reach out if you have any questions, happy planting!

Check Out These Related Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.